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arron9999

need help asap knocking in suspension

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hi all 

 

I am going away to Europe in 2 weeks and have a knock from the from end passenger side what sound like ball joints. 

 

I keep chasing it and have replaced a lot of parts but each time i does it either stays to same or seems to get worse, 

so far i have replaced

inner and outer tie rod ends

control arms both from and back

anti roll bar links

anti roll bar bushes

strut top mounts. I have also re torqued the strut bar.  

 

I dont know what else to change or check, im going to have to bite to bullet and take it in unless someone has any other ideas. 

 

Car is a E61 535D LCI

 

Thank you 

 

Arron

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there is only the lower 2 as its on the front 11 and 16 on both sides. haven checked the shock though didn't know it would cause that. but thinking of it could be 

 

image.png.b41ab852fa3b4da12a93e07cd95ddedb.png

Edited by arron9999

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One is the tension arm and one on s the control arm

 

Tension arm is the front arm which goes downwards into the steering knuckle.

 

Control arm is the rear arm which goes upwards into the steering knuckle. It was the control arm balljoint that failed on mine with a corresponding clonk from the front end.

 

New arms and noise went.

 

 

How is your tension arm?

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From what you say you have near enough replaced everything assuming you have done both tension and control arms on both sides.

 

The only things left "old" are the spring and shocker.

 

Other than the clonk it must handle like a new car.....

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The bushes in the lower control arms are a common weakness on BMW - even a pry bar test doesn't always show them to be shot, until you actually remove them.  It is sensible however to replace both the control and tension arms together.

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19 minutes ago, arron9999 said:

hi all 

 

I am going away to Europe in 2 weeks and have a knock from the from end passenger side what sound like ball joints. 

 

I keep chasing it and have replaced a lot of parts but each time i does it either stays to same or seems to get worse, 

so far i have replaced

inner and outer tie rod ends

control arms both from and back

anti roll bar links

anti roll bar bushes

strut top mounts. I have also re torqued the strut bar.  

 

I dont know what else to change or check, im going to have to bite to bullet and take it in unless someone has any other ideas. 

 

Car is a E61 535D LCI

 

Thank you 

 

Arron

 

Drive it over MOT station pit whilst someone checks below. I did the above plus new shocks & springs, it turned out to be the driver seat base!!

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4 minutes ago, Dotcom1970 said:

If you have replaced those, then as @535i Andrew says, it's either the shock, spring or top support bearing.  

 

He's done the top mount which really doesn't leave much that could make the clonk which is why I am struggling to suggest anything.  

 

I can't see the spring making a clonk unless it's broken but that would have been obvious on top mount replacement. Can shocks clonk? The E60 has a solid non bushed connection from the strut to the hub which wouldn't cause a clonk. New top mount shouldn't clonk.

 

Unless @jake13 is on the money....with a bust seat.

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Thank you all,

yes the tension arm has been changed on both sides and also the top strut mount.

 

The car does handle fine but when i knock/rattle happens i do feel it through the car and also the steering wheel. 

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21 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

One is the tension arm and one on s the control arm

 

Tension arm is the front arm which goes downwards into the steering knuckle.

 

Control arm is the rear arm which goes upwards into the steering knuckle. It was the control arm balljoint that failed on mine with a corresponding clonk from the front end.

 

New arms and noise went.

 

 

How is your tension arm?

very good write up, wish i had found that before i had done all the work as that would have helped loads.

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9 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

He's done the top mount which really doesn't leave much that could make the clonk which is why I am struggling to suggest anything.  

 

I can't see the spring making a clonk unless it's broken but that would have been obvious on top mount replacement. Can shocks clonk? The E60 has a solid non bushed connection from the strut to the hub which wouldn't cause a clonk. New top mount shouldn't clonk.

 

Unless @jake13 is on the money....with a bust seat.

The noise is most defo from the front, I have had my old man in the car listening for it while driving and is almost 100% in the location of the front wheel. 

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6 minutes ago, arron9999 said:

very good write up, wish i had found that before i had done all the work as that would have helped loads.

 

Search on here or post with symptoms before changing out loads of bits.....he says in hindsight:ph34r:

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3 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

Search on here or post with symptoms before changing out loads of bits.....he says in hindsight:ph34r:

 

Been there done that on my old E39, hence why I changed them immediately on my E61

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33 minutes ago, arron9999 said:

Thank you all,

yes the tension arm has been changed on both sides and also the top strut mount.

 

The car does handle fine but when i knock/rattle happens i do feel it through the car and also the steering wheel. 

 

There is a bracket which connects the anti-roll bar links to the hub. I got 'carried away' when trying to remove the shock from the soft aluminium hub. This made a clonking sound until I retapped the hole and put the bolt back.

Edited by jake13

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1 hour ago, jake13 said:

 

There is a bracket which connects the anti-roll bar links to the hub. I got 'carried away' when trying to remove the shock from the soft aluminium hub. This made a clonking sound until I retapped the hole and put the bolt back.

 

Photo 11 in my link above, the one with the socket over it?

 

What were you doing to get carried away? 

 

To seperate the strut from the knuckle drop drop the whole strut out from under the wing then separate on a bench.....

 

Nearer the end of this post I dropped the whole lot out. Sooooo much easier!

 

 

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22 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

What were you doing to get carried away? 

 

To seperate the strut from the knuckle drop drop the whole strut out from under the wing then separate on a bench.....

 

Nearer the end of this post I dropped the whole lot out. Sooooo much easier!

 

 

 

Giving the hub/knuckle the kiss of death with a 3lb club hammer. Spending all day and the meter running for the lift (£10/hr), Mr Hammer was the only friend I knew.

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9 hours ago, jake13 said:

 

Giving the hub/knuckle the kiss of death with a 3lb club hammer. Spending all day and the meter running for the lift (£10/hr), Mr Hammer was the only friend I knew.

 

Been there.  First time I used a big Allen key and a flat bladed screwdriver to prise apart the knuckle while my dad hit the bearing assembly with a similar sized hammer. We were replacing the bearing so that was o.k. But it put up a real fright. If you are resorting to hitting a BMW then you are doing it wrong. You shouldn't need to hit anything to get it apart.....but it is more satisfying  ;)

 

Next time I removed the 3 nuts in the inner wing and drop whole thing out from under the car.

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I was going to say the engine brace bar that goes between the top of the struts and firewall, if they're lose they knock..

 

Glad it's sorted

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50 minutes ago, Blobby said:

I was going to say the engine brace bar that goes between the top of the struts and firewall, if they're lose they knock..

 

Glad it's sorted

 

I'm toying with the idea of something like this

 

http://www.ultraracinguk.co.uk/ultra-racing-front-strut-brace-tw2721_p26384964.htm

 

Had a similar thing fitted on my old Volvo V70 which vastly improved the cornering feel

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