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LCI Tail Light Retrofit without Bruce Cables - Solved!

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Hi all,


I wanted to share with you my experience of fitting LCI rear lights on to my Pre-LCI E60.


Just to be clear, I had considered the following before successfully carrying this out:


1) I didn't want the expense of buying Bruce Miranda cables


2) I wanted to utilise the Ricky brake effect


3) I didn't want the hassle of running extra wires from the LM2


4) I wanted to utilise the official BMW retrofit cables


5) I didn't want to change my adaptive bi-xenons, I intended to keep the Pre-LCI ones


6) I wanted to the leave the factory wiring in the car untouched


Firstly, I retrofitted the LM2 light module to my 56 plate E60. There are plenty of guides discussing this, so I will assume you already have the LM2 light module retrofitted or fitted as standard (from the later Pre-LCI models) as this is not possible with the LM1.


I had to purchase the LM2 with adaptive functionality but this coding can be done with any LM2. I got the LM2 for £85 off eBay, the ones without AHL can picked up for a between £40 and £60.


There is a little bit of pin swapping required on the harness bought from BMW. The part number for the Retrofit harness is 61120432110. I ordered it from BMW directly and it cost £25+VAT. I managed to pick up some LCI rear lights off eBay for £130 delivered also.


OK let me discuss the coding first as this will make more sense when I discuss the pin swapping on the retrofit harness. 


This assumes you are familiar with NCSEXPERT also, again there are plenty of guides on this. In the LM2, you need to change:


KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv


all of the above are in relation to the LED indicators and this tells the LM2 to not carry out cold or warm bulb checks and not report any check control messages in due course.


Lastly, you need to change:

PWM_ANSTEURUNG_BL from wert_05 to wert_02 and wert_04


This disables the brake light being used as a side light (I will explain this shortly). Essentially it changes the voltage output from 6.598v to 0v


PWM_ANSTEUERUNG_RL_33 from wert_05 to wert_04


This increases the tail light voltage from the default 6.598v to 100% (around 13.8v)


PWM_AN_NSL_SL from wert_02 and wert_03 to wert_01


This disables the fog light from being used as a side light by reducing the voltage from the default 4.699v to 0v


We have to disable the fog light and brake light as side lights as we have increased the voltage on the side light to 100% therefore you wouldn't be able to tell when pressing the brake or putting the rear fogs on as the brightness wouldn't change.


The bulb checks on the Pre-LCI as standard for the inner side lights are turned off by default so we don't need to edit the coding on these.


The plan is to use the increased side light voltage to power the LED rods to match the OEM LCI lights brightness. The brake light will be utilised in the fog assembly and the fog light will be placed where the brake light was before (the outer light). The inner side light will no longer be powered as that is what we are using. This gives us the Ricky brake effect.


In order to achieve this the following pins need to be swapped on the retrofit harness:


Left hand side rear light
Pin 1 = ground - OK
Pin 2 = fog light - move to Pin 6 brake light
Pin 3 = Reverse - OK
Pin 4 = Side Light - OK (when you get the harness, this linked to Pin 7 on the LCI connector, this need to be moved on the LCI connector side to Pin 4 (LED rods) as we are no longer using the side bulbs
Pin 5 = Indicator - OK
Pin 6 = brake light - move to Pin 2


Right hand side rear light
Exactly the same as above but Pin 4 needs to be moved from Pin 7 on the LCI connector to Pin 2 on the LCI connector side (LED rods)


And that's it!! Plug your lights in with 0 errors and give yourself a pat on the back as you have saved yourself £200+ on buying Bruce Miranda cables and you have a working solution with no need for resisters or relays etc.


It took me a few attempts to get the coding right but hopefully this will help a few people who are interested in this upgrade. If you have welcome lights coded as well these will light up the LED rods now as well instead of the halogen lights which look a lot smarter.


Plus remember: When you sell the vehicle you can code it back to defaults and just plug the old lights back in too! I will upload some pictures at the weekend of my wiring etc. With a before and after.





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Hi sorry to revive an old post. The photo doesn't match the pin swap listed above. Should you follow the photo shown or the written pin swap?



Edit: Quick update guys just completed the mod but had to alter things around a little.

My wiring on the left side:

PIN 4 from pre LCI side to PIN 2 LCI side

PIN 6 from pre LCI side to PIN 4 LCI side

PIN 2 from pre LCI side to PIN 6 LCI side

right side:

PIN 4 from pre LCI side to PIN 3 LCI side

PIN 6 from pre LCI side to PIN 2 LCI side

PIN 2 from pre LCI side to PIN 7 LCI side


If you can, change PWM_ANSTEURUNG_BL to wert_09 if you have the option. This basically allows the brake lights (originally fogs) to light up with the LED rods when you unlock the car as welcome lights. But turns off the brake light when engine is started and only lights up when brake pedal is pressed again. Makes it look more complete!

If you guys want I've attached my LMA MAN file so you can have a look at how I've coded mine.

Hope this helps anyone that was stuck like me.



Happy Modding :)


Edited by Drhyde
Quick update on progress

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Hi Jamie, i am in the process of doing the retrofit. I have all the kit you have put above. But there are 3 plugs which come with the retrofit wiring kit. One has 8 pin connector plug and on the other side there is a 6 pin connector. And then a seperate 8 pin plug. So when you say LCI and Pre LCI plug. This is where my confusion starts. Although the coding part is the easiest. 


As i look at the retrofit kit and your instructions, the pins are already in the correct pins. 

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