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*jimmyj*

Lack of service history, but same owner for 8 years.

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OK so the hunt for a e39 530d continues, came across one but only has some service history. It's had the same owner for the last 8 years, and the owner did the services himself, but hasn't kept and of the receipts to show this. Car is on 169k and the last recorded service in the book is 107k. It's an auto by the way as well. Should I be concerned?

 

Car is a good spec, Usual e39 530d sports heated memory electric seats with massage feature, and electric head rest.

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Hi,

 

All depends on the price that's being asked. At 169K miles, with no evidence of a gearbox full recondition or torque converter change, the gearbox is 'due' to give up. It might go on and on, or it might go pop in the next 500 miles. Check all the rest of the car and it's condition and then look at spec and toys. If the rest of the car checks out very well then do consider it if the price is good, depending on the year as well (pre facelift? or facelift car?). If there's more signs of wear, rust etc then offer a lower price given the autobox 'might' fail soon.

 

Cheers, Dennis!

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9 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

:lol:;) 

 

I tried :lol:

 

Jimmy, go with your gut on the 530d you mention. Receipts are really a bonus, but, we all know people who do look after their cars but see no benefit in keeping receipts. I don't get that myself but I guess you'll know deep down if it's been truly loved or not?

 

My last two 39s were 530ds. One about 170k miles, the other 200k miles. Both were well maintained and I had no issue with the mileage on them, in fact the 200k car had the best seats I've sat in - no bolster sag at all! 

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@*jimmyj*

 

I don't think you're being blinded by spec / condition etc, those things are very important!

 

Dennis is right; the cars can either go on, or break very soon after buying...

 

But one thing I've always stood by is that if you buy a car like these, have around £1000 fluid cash for 'just in case' items (cooling system, suspension, tyres, autobox service etc)

 

If you like the car; it drives well through all the gears, pulls like a train, isn't obviously damaged/rusted heap etc then maybe it's the right car. More so for me that it's been owned by the same person for the last 8 years!

 

Get the MOT history online, go through it and see what failures there have been and make sure they've been taken care of and you should have a good car on your hands!

Edited by d_a_n1979

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I'm a great believer in buying on condition rather than mileage or age.

 

I once went to view 2 cars of the same model by same seller - one was a 40,000 one owner, the other an older 80,000 daily work hack. The younger car must have had an abusive life, but the older car drove like a dream, so that's the one I bought.

 

If it drives right and there's nothing obviously wrong, give it a good service when you get home, and go from there.

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12 years ago we bought a new Vauxhall Corsa. Come time for the 1st MOT I asked the main dealer for a pre-MOT inspection + full service and wanted calling if it needed anything to do to pass the MOT so I could authorise the work, otherwise, they could just MOT it. What I went to collect later that day was a car that had been MOT'd failed on a loose CV joint clip (CV joint still in place) and a dented door trim with the same colour paint the ramp had.

 

Needless to say after a fair bit of kicking off the door was fixed, I fitted a new clip and made them MOT it again with me watching. I didn't know then I could get the MOT removed off the database as they had not done as instructed or I would have made them do that as well.

 

After that I figured screw it I am capable of doing it all myself and for the next 7 years, it never failed a MOT, not even an advisory until we sold it. I got top money as the guy knew it had been looked after, some receipts as I didn't keep hold of basic service items but he knew he had found a good one.

 

More often than not those of us who do it ourselves short service as it is affordable.

Edited by GoNz0

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6 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

Get the MOT history online, go through it and see what failures there have been and make sure they've been taken care of and you should have a good car on your hands!

Agree - this is a 'must do' when checking a used vehicle's past history.

 

Probably one of the most useful on line facilities that the DVLA have provided in recent times. 

Edited by Loadmaster

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Thanks for the heads up guys. Really appreciate it. I've been in touch with the seller, and he's had been very helpful providing any information I need, pictures videos etc.

 

The items that are highlighted to me are some rust on the arches not crazy amount, but still there. Obviously going to get this on most e39's. The rear bumper is misaligned, and has a crack in it, he said his wife reversed into the back of it so the parking sensors don't work. That's it really and apart from the lack of receipts for the pass 8 years for service car "seems" from a distance good. Might get some pictures up of the car and see what you guys think of the rear bumper and rust.

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Also I've gone through the mot checker seems very consistent regarding millage again I'll reach out to you guys with the info. As you can see I'm trying to make sure I make the right choice.

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With a rear wheel arch like that you MUST have a good poke about underneath, jacking points, under the sub-frame mounts etc., it could be totally rotten.

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 As said, if it drives o.k, the gearbox feels o.k and it doesn't make any odd noises it probably is o.k. If the seller is being very helpful I would take that as a good sign. As also said above, I would be having a VERY good poke about underneath with the rear arches the way they are.

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^^

 

No it's not; I'd say most of that is simply under the paint and a good bodyshop will soon have the arches and sills sorted within a week. I've seen a lot worse E39s and it's just been that, simple rust under the paint, sills and jacking points all solid/clean as a whistle etc! Each E39 differs

 

However; as others have said, underneath needs to be checked as if the sills/jacking points have started to decay, that's more work involved!

 

Therein could lie the key though; get it at the right price due to the necessary bodywork and it could be a superb motor!

 

Check it out properly before walking away from it

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1 minute ago, *jimmyj* said:

Without sounding silly what's the best way to check, just have a look and feel underneath? Would you say the bumper is a big job to sort out?

 

Bumper; no. Some good plastic welding or fixed/filled on the rear with fibreglass (or whatever the bodyshops use these days) and a good fill, sand and primer/paint and you'll never see that. PCD will be something else IMO, unless a wires been severed behind the bumper. Can't see why that crack would affect it etc

 

As for the rust, yes. Down on floor, good inspection torch / inspection mirror and have a good root around underneath! You'll soon see gaping holes if it's rotten under there

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43 minutes ago, *jimmyj* said:

Oh yeah forgot to say it has some pixels missing on the dash but only on the temperature part. A part to be concerned about. Total novice, sorry for the questions.....

 

Not really

 

As long as the rest is readable; should be fine

 

My terrible OCD couldn't cope with that, but some folk have no issues

 

It can be fixed too; either DIY (if you're brave) or it can be sent off and fixed :) 

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With regards the mot of this car, mot seems pretty good. Bar a few issues going back a few years.

 

In 2008 it failed on Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.B.7)

 

In 2009 it had these advisories; Front Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2)

Parking brake: parking brake efficiency only just met. It would appear that the braking system requires adjustment or repair. (3.7.B.7)

front exhaust to centre section bracket broken.

 

Following years it had advisories for rear tyre wear.

 

Only other issues that stand out are from the latest mot done 10 days ago which were:

 

surface corrosion to nearside + offside rear outer sills + inner sills + outer wheel arches

Nearside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)

Offside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)

surface corrosion to fuel lines front to rear

Nearside Rear Upper Suspension arm ball joint dust cover damaged, but preventing the ingress of dirt (2.4.G.2)

Offside Rear Upper Suspension arm ball joint dust cover damaged, but preventing the ingress of dirt (2.4.G.2)

Parking brake lever has little reserve travel (3.1.6b)

 

What are your thoughts guys?

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Sounds to me like it's pretty corroded. Brake pipes front to back is a pig of a job. That has way more corrosion than my old 530d when I sold it and it about 170k on it. 

Edited by GStarrr

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