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Blower motor replacement

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As Clavurion says, dash out. Not complicated, but time consuming. Check this video out for an idea:

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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My blower was squeaking as though I had a budgie in the dash on & off for a couple of months, eventually it packed up. New one one from Cotswold for £175 and planning to do it this weekend. There's quite a good video from E39 source on YouTube for this

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

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Hi,

 

Barry - This is one of the issues on my car at the moment, over the years, mine has chirped quite a lot and then been relatively quiet for 6+ months! also, every so often, perhaps twice a year my cabin fan will stop completely for a couple days and then 'make a return' ! the last time though, it did return at all! Will be ordering a new cabin fan unit and I think that's pretty much the same price as BMW as I had a quick quote for the part from them. It's the labour and work needed to remove the dash and gubbins to change it that I can't do! Fancy doing mine as well once you've finished yours? I'll bring the tea and samosa's !!

 

velvetmonkey - thanks for the video, i'll have to show it to my mechanic to see what he wants for the job, assuming of course that Barry above tells me to get lost ! ;)

 

Cheers, Dennis!

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Dash1.thumb.jpg.0e04f6caadbc83d94edc603614baa437.jpg

(Above) Start with this.......

 

Dash2.thumb.jpg.54b9a6b50c949bddc55120c4fa91bcf3.jpg

(Above) ........and end up with this.

 

Quite scary and complex in prospect but if you're careful and methodical this can be done without specialist tools or deep technical knowledge. Take your time and make sure you organise and label all the fasteners you remove - plastic disposable drink cups with Post-It notes help here.

 

From memory, the trickiest parts were taking off the A pillar trims without breaking the fasteners (failed!). The trims are fixed differently pre/post facelift, I think. Getting the radio out was also a bit of a ball-ache but I could do that with my eyes closed now - it's logical, you just need to be gentle and persistent. Also, the very final removal of the motor was a bit of a head-scratch on my car (MY2000 530d) involving the removal of a sliding rod (see below) but I hear others doing this job haven't had this issue.

 

596e93e5e6259_Heaterfanrod.thumb.jpg.4a6f231f74e8c77024f1478ce1da8340.jpg

 

The installation of the motor itself was a cinch. Putting all the trim back would have been a nightmare without the labelled cups. Taking photos during disassembly would also be useful reference when putting things back together, too. Overall, it's not a particularly technical job but you do feel a little 'balls out' at times especially when dealing with the airbags!  Of course, isolate the battery before you start. (Actually, disconnecting the wiring from main passenger airbag was a bit fiddly as well.)

 

Edit: The commutator on the motor was more or less completely worn out on mine and the brushes were shot as well. Ever wondered why the inside of your windscreen gets a thin, slightly greasy layer of dirt? That'll be the brushes slowly but steadily wearing after which the carbon graphite dust gets blown onto the screen. There was also quite a lot of graphite dust to clean up in and around the motor housing on mine.

Edited by DepthHoar

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It's funny, the compromises made on cars for certain parts. Seeing the pictures above remind me of doing the heater matrix on my Corrado VR6 - which you can do with the dash in place, but it's easier to remove. I ended up with everything out and wondering if it would ever go back together the same way - thankfully it did. Same methodology - no special tools required, just patience and being organised.

 

The heater blower motor however, whilst also reasonably feeble, is a 10 minute job to change! 

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15 hours ago, osealy said:

I think you can reach in from under the pollen filter! Spin it around and soak with wd40.

 

I tried that a while back and think it helped but the blower has died now. I also disconnected the FSU and powered the blower directly from a 12v back up battery that spun it back into life for a few weeks but it's a goner now :(

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14 hours ago, DennisCooper said:

It's the labour and work needed to remove the dash and gubbins to change it that I can't do! Fancy doing mine as well once you've finished yours? I'll bring the tea and samosa's !!

 

Hi Dennis,

 

I'm not looking forward to doing this myself (although I'm also planning to try and retrofit the TPMS/RDC cabling at the same time so I have that incentive). According to E39source it's a 4/5hr job but I'm planning for the weekend including the RDC install. I'm afraid I still have plenty of other 'little' jobs lined up when I have time so doing something as involved as this to someone else's car is a non starter I'm afraid but good luck on getting it done locally,

 

cheers

Barry.

 

 

Edited by BarryM

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Great price but I'm only planning on doing this once so have a new one waiting to fit

 

 

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I don't mind having ago at a lot of things on cars, but there's no way I'd try that. It would all end in tears for sure.

 

At the end of the day you can't do without the blower so I'd get my indie to do it, dependent on cost. It might be one of those failures that could, in my view, write the car off.  

 

Big respect to those who DIY that task!

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As above, the labour cost on a 15year plus car could well consign it to the scrapers. If I had to do I would, but I'd expect to spend several slow days and many sleepless nights on the project. Would also call on No. 1 son for back up! 

Considering that the fan on modern cars runs all the time, it is quite amazing how reliable they are.

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Gentlemen, 

 

This is not a difficult job. Scrapping an otherwise perfectly functional car because of this would be a motoring outrage!

 

A long-winded job? Yes, a bit. 

 

Specialist tools? Apart from disposable drink cups and 'Post-It' notes, then no. All's that's needed is a small selection of flat-head, Philips & Torx screwdrivers & a trim tool lever (optional - improvisation possible) + maybe a 1/4" drive socket socket set (from hazy memory).

 

If you've changed a FSU (hedgehog) on these cars then this just about qualifies you to do the blower replacement job. If you've done any suspension work on the car - no matter how minor - then that too is a positive indicator of ability.

 

You need some time, a little confidence and an organised approach. You'll learn an awful lot about the goings on behind the dash and come away from the job more than a little impressed at how BMW designed and put this particular part of the car together. As you might expect from BMW, there's a blend of logic, simplicity, sophistication and quality. 

 

Check out a few YouTube videos. I found them enormously helpful and quelled my nerves. Once you viewed a couple you'll see it's not that difficult to accomplish for yourself.

 

It will also give you additional confidence to tackle other jobs like a tow bar retro-fit. I've just fitted a detachable BMW towbar and OE lighting/wiring kit to my 530d. In prospect it looked similar to rewiring the Hadron Collider but BMW had preempted this job and had labelled spare fuse ways, dedicated locations in 52 pin connectors and cable glands in place. Had to drill just one hole in the bodywork to take the final cable run to the trailer socket. The hardest part was removing trim nearest the O/S seats in order to run a single wire to the LCM 52 pin plug in the driver's footwell. Throughout, not a single cable required cutting & no Scotchloks were used. (With this OE tow bar installation the LCM/DME detects the presence of the trailer and automatically adjusts the functionality of the the rear parking sensors & fog lights. I'd recommend this any day over a funky installation with a dozen Scotchloks cutting into the sophisticated multiplex wiring system of our cars.)

 

 

Edited by DepthHoar
edit for typo

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Gentlemen, 

 

This is not a difficult job. Scrapping an otherwise perfectly functional car because of this would be a motoring outrage!

 

A long-winded job? Yes, a bit. 

 

br />

 

I concur, not looking forward to it but no reason to scrap a car, although I couldn't bring myself to pay someone else to do it.

I'm just getting the last bits together for my RDC retrofit and I'll be ready to go

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Pulled the dash out today and new blower fitted, the old one would hardly turn by hand and have tested the new one in situ so very pleased.

 

IMG_3934.thumb.JPG.4f48359e076222971e1d98aa4fdb282b.JPG

 

 

Does the metalwork rust on all cars like mine?

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8 hours ago, BarryM said:

Pulled the dash out today and new blower fitted, the old one would hardly turn by hand and have tested the new one in situ so very pleased.

 

IMG_3934.thumb.JPG.4f48359e076222971e1d98aa4fdb282b.JPG

 

 

Does the metalwork rust on all cars like mine?

Yes, that's pretty normal, some light surface rust is to be expected so nothing to worry about. 

 

I'm expecting to do mine as it's been chirping for quite some time, but for the moment it's still working. 

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Ressurecting this 2 or three year old thread.

 

Having changed the fsu and control panel I'm still getting heater problems.  Blower intermittently making a clicking noise after which control panel shuts off for a second and comes back on.  Rumbling clicking noise definitely seems to be coming from the blower fan not the small fan in the control panel.

 

I'm bracing myself for stripping down the dash to replace the blower.

 

Realoem seems to show two possible fan blowers:

64118385558

For models with automatic air conditioning.

 

Or

 

64118382305

For models with airconditing.

 

My car is a 2002 530i sport.  Can I assume it's the former part - for automatic air conditioning.  Opinions appreciated.

 

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The correct fan for your car is almost certainly 64118385558. But check it....see below.

 

I ordered the wrong one (64118382305) since I assumed my lowly 530d SE just had regular air con. Cotswold BMW were good enough to take it back and send me the right one, as above.

 

The Cotswold parts guy I spoke to on the phone said he was surprised I'd ordered the 'ordinary' a/c fan in the first place since he reckoned most E39s came with automatic a/c.

 

Anyway, to double check put your VIN into one of the online BMW VIN checker to confirm the spec of your car and the type of a/c you have will be listed. (Mine had S534, which is the factory code for Automatic a/c for my particular model).

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Thanks.  That's really helpful.  Now I just have to psyche my self up for a wonderful day of dashboard removal.  Hoping to hold out until the weather gets warmer in the spring.

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