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HELP needed with E60 '04 525d loss of power after 5 mins of driving

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Hello everyone.

 

I have a 2004 525d Touring which has recently developed an issue with loss of power. (120k Miles).

 

When started cold, I can drive normally and I have full power until about 5 mins in, it's almost like there is no boost whatsoever.  It does still rev out, but takes about 2 mins to get to 60MPH.  With enough space, I can reach 90MPH on the motorway, but this would take about 5 mins.

 

There are no warning lights or messages on any display.

 

What have I done so far?

 

  • The first thing I did, was a full filter service and engine oil, hoping that whilst doing so, i could spot something physically wrong, like a split hose.
  • I took the EGR off (which actually wasn't too bad) gave it a thorough clean and replaced.
  • Cleaned the MAF sensor with electrical cleaner.
  • Connected BMW DIS and run some diagnostics and checked the fault codes.
  • Changed both thermostats
  • Went for a long drive, and believe completed a forced regen (brother in passenger seat activating and confirming status with DIS).  Although, didn't see any smoke, hear anything and the exhaust tip was as spotless as before.

 

My thoughts are that it might be the turbo or a blocked DPF. (the exhaust tips have been extremely clean since I purchased the car 12 months ago.).  I ran a back-pressure test through DIS, and the values were fine.

However, it seems like it could be electrical.  My caveman logic says that "if I have full boost when cold, then disappears when warmed, must be electrical?"

 

I read a post about checking to see if the actuator arm moves when you turn the ignition on.  I checked this, and it twitches slightly, but not much.  Video here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4v4po1wnyhehim0/2017-06-04 14.40.06.mp4?dl=0 

The turbo spins freely and the play is within tolerances.

 

DIS reveals the following error codes:

  • 4521 DDE: Charge-air pressure control, control deviation
  • 3F57 DDE: Charge-air pressure controller

 

Does anyone have any ideas on how to test this further?  I really cant pocket a new turbo on this car, so I'm hoping it is something friendly.  I haven't checked any vacuum hoses.

 

Thanks in advance to all!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Well the lack of power is the car going into limp mode as you might know and those errors do cause that so not unexpected. The errors from a quick google suggests that there is an issue with the boost pressure its expecting compared to what it's getting. I'd try a couple of options:

 

Take a look at the turbo actuator arm to see if you can see any obstruction or damage and maybe give it a spray of WD40 or whatever you use (just the arm and joint)

Next I'd look for  any split inter cooler hoses and see if there's a boost leak anywhere.

 

I'd get onto Google either way though as they don't seem like uncommon codes and the M57 engine is very common.

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yeah that doesn't look laboured or jerky, may be worth removing the MAP sensor on the manifold and giving that a clean too as perhaps that isn't giving the right pressure, that number 10 in this pic btw. Also maybe try running it with that plug removed although that might put the car straight to limp, worth a try though.

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If its giving an erroneous value then the errors you have are exactly what i'd expect. The car has no way of knowing if the MAP is faulty, or if the turbo is producing the wrong pressure unless its wildly inaccurate.

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Hi Anthony, 

 

The MAP sensor was a little gunked up, but not too bad.  I gave it a clean out with pressurised brake cleaner, and this made no difference.

 

The one thing I haven't checked are the vacuum hoses - might this be the cause of throwing it into limp mode?  Or is there anything else i'm missing?

 

Thanks, JB

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Had the same problem with my 525d e60 a few months ago same symptoms and fault codes. The turbo actuator is faulty. I used a company called Turbo vanes on the internet who supplied a reconditioned unit on a exchange basis for £98 inc delivery. You will need the G number off the actuator. No point wasting time and money trying to find faults elsewhere. The actuator is your problem. If you are handy with spanners you can diy in about 1.5 hours. 

 

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The actuator has a electronic circuit board in it that controls the actuator arm which in return opens and closes the vanes inside the turbo. Sometimes it's the little motor in the actuator that fail sometimes its the circuit board due to the high amount of heat from the manifold. 

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20 minutes ago, Yas525d said:

The replacement i bought came with a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty.

 

Thanks Yas.  I will definitely take a look.

 

Am I guessing the turbo needs to come off to remove the actuator?  Also, I read before that the reason why these can't be changed is that it needs to be 'matched' to the turbo.  Did you come across any of these issues?

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Sorry for the late reply. The turbo does not need to come out, there are 3 bolts holding the actuator  in place and a circlip holding the actuator arm in place which will need removing. The part numbers and G number were exactly the same on my replacement so it didn't need matching up as it's electronically controlled. My car is driving perfect since replacement.

Edited by Yas525d

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