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535i Andrew

Part Query 71606875018

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Got the plug pics. The main power plug I couldn't see any part numbers though.

 

I put a multimeter on the caravan battery to see if I had a charge voltage with the car ignition on. Had a bit of a weird result the caravan tells me the engine is running and disables the interior lights so it looks like I have an ignition live. The battery voltage didn't really change though so I think the solar panel may take priority over and engine power source. The battery reported 13.4v in the van and around 13.1v on the multimeter. The caravan control panel doesn't display the car voltage though and according to the manual it should display both batteries when the car is connected. 

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Right I've finally got to the bottom of it, I've been out in the dark so the solar panel cant influence the results. It seems the ignition live does work. If I leave the caravan master switch on and the lights on after about a minute the lights automatically switch off and a message come up "engine running" on the caravan control panel. You have to accept this message then another message pops up saying only some devices will have power again you have to accept it (with the return button).

The fridge also receives 12v at this point and the battery warning goes off with the fridge still powered, with the fridge on battery alone there's a flashing red alert light.

The leisure battery also receives a small charge at this point the voltage goes up by 0.1 of a volt as the capacity increases, it does not get 13.8v straight onto it like the old system would have done.

 

If I have the master switch off like i used to travel with the old caravan then the fridge warning carries on  and the battery voltage stays the same. With the old van the fridge would get 12v from the car with the master off.

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Thanks so much for these mate, The bad news is the main connector doesn’t seem available individually......and I don’t need 400 of them! The hunt continues!

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17 hours ago, dandle said:

Right I've finally got to the bottom of it, I've been out in the dark so the solar panel cant influence the results. It seems the ignition live does work. If I leave the caravan master switch on and the lights on after about a minute the lights automatically switch off and a message come up "engine running" on the caravan control panel. You have to accept this message then another message pops up saying only some devices will have power again you have to accept it (with the return button).

The fridge also receives 12v at this point and the battery warning goes off with the fridge still powered, with the fridge on battery alone there's a flashing red alert light.

The leisure battery also receives a small charge at this point the voltage goes up by 0.1 of a volt as the capacity increases, it does not get 13.8v straight onto it like the old system would have done.

 

If I have the master switch off like i used to travel with the old caravan then the fridge warning carries on  and the battery voltage stays the same. With the old van the fridge would get 12v from the car with the master off.

I can’t wait till I get my van to start playing around and seeing how things work. We are looking at a sprite super Quattro EB, either 18/19/20 new but at the right price. I have to book a towing course first as passed in 98 so don’t have grandfather rights annoyingly. 
 

I bit the bullet last night and ordered the trailer module that I should have fitted in my car, the AAG like yours. I hunted for the plug and couldn’t find a supplier so found a module on Allegro, a polish auction site. The module has all four plugs with it as they have been shipped off the loom. I will just rep in the loom I have into the plugs that come with this ECU. From looking at the ISTA schematics I can see that pin 10 gets its feed from the same fuse as pin 9. BMW have pick off fuse connectors so 2 feeds can come from one fuse. This then goes to pin 6 on plug 2 of the module, in then looks like this additional 12v supply feeds pin 1 of plug 1 on the module. Annoyingly there is no reference to pin 10 electrics on any of the F series schematics, but as the modules are all effectively the same I am going to take a chance with it. I have checked the coding values of the module I have bought and it has the same options available for setting terminal 15 to active so I have no doubt it will work. Wish I’d just got the right gear in the first place. 

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Personally I wouldn't buy a new van they depreciate too much. If you can find a van a year old you still get the benefit of the warranty but save a shed load of money. Also you might find that the actual layout you want isn't quite perfect once you start using it and it better to find that out without loosing too much. Our coachman we paid £19K for a few months ago and its 2yrs old in Feb, its was £9K cheaper than a new one and we got loads of stuff with it including a Kampa 400 air awning, towing cover etc. Also being the first van think carefully about going for a twin axle, if you put motor movers on it your will loose about 65-70kg of weight (compared to 40kg on a single axle) you can carry which is already not as much as many people believe. You also have the added issue of putting two wheel clamps on when ever you park it up (depending on the wheel clamps you may need to jack one axle each time).

 

I always fancied a twin axle since we started but the compromise for me wasn't worth the benefit of the extra room, we purchased an extra fridge as the smaller fridge was the only real downside for us.

 

I was going to say about buying the module online as i thought there should be some available. It will be interesting to see how you get on installing it are you buying the loom to fit or going to make one?

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Thanks for the info guys. I've been a bit out of the loop, sorry, being quite broken then away on holiday.

 

I'm really surprised to see that @dandle has a fully populated socket given its the same part number as the one on my towbar, good result for you.

 

Check that pin 9 is permanently live as it's not on mine. It's switched by the CAS system so is only live when the car is awake. That might be your issue when hooked up to the caravan as the habitation relay looks for both the permanent (pin 9) and ignition switched supply (pin 10) IIRC before it switches the car supply to charge the caravan battery from the car. I think the caravan will only charge the battery from pin 9 if it knows there is a live from pin 10 so it knows the caravan is connected to a car and therefore can charge its battery. If you've not got pin 10 I don't believe it will charge from only pin 9. 

 

I would recommend that you fit a minimum of 2.5mm^2 cable to power pin 10 as the caravan fridge can draw up to 30 amps. Ryder towing recommend 3mm^2 for big fridges. Your ring main in the house is rated at 32amps and it uses 2.5mm^2. So to put up to 30 amps thru one 1.5mm^2 cable is a bit of a ask IMO, yes I'm an Engineer too but not an Ohms law one. ;)

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Pin 9 live goes live when the car is unlocked not permanently same as how my last kit in the F11 was wired if you remember (it was wired into the BMW supply not as per westfalias instructions). 

 

PIn10 live works but needs to meet the criteria posted above so on a tester where there is no battery at the other end it won't turn on so gives the impression of not working. In the caravan though it knows when the ignition is running and cuts some of the consumers, which is different to my older van that would power the fridge coil even if the master was off. This one the master has to be on for the system to work, it's slightly smarter (or dumber) than a plain habitation relay.

 

The battery is charged off pin 9 (when there's a live on pin10) but it's only a trickle charge so not much current flows and the fridge pulls 10a max (120w) off pin 10, it doesn't fully chill the fridge but merely keeps it chilled if it's already cold. Both pin 9 and 10 are on 20a fuses in the westfalia kit, I would assume this is the same but haven't checked. 

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16 hours ago, dandle said:

The battery is charged off pin 9 (when there's a live on pin10) but it's only a trickle charge so not much current flows and the fridge pulls 10a max (120w) off pin 10, it doesn't fully chill the fridge but merely keeps it chilled if it's already cold. Both pin 9 and 10 are on 20a fuses in the westfalia kit, I would assume this is the same but haven't checked. 

 

So in other words, you need to chill the beer in the fridge in the house before you set off rather than chilling it en-route:D

 

Its all about cold beer at the end of the day as lets face it warm beer on holiday is just wrong.

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42 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

So in other words, you need to chill the beer in the fridge in the house before you set off rather than chilling it en-route:D

 

Its all about cold beer at the end of the day as lets face it warm beer on holiday is just wrong.

 

Haha, exactly start off with cold beer is the important bit and it will stay cold over long journeys. I've been on the forums and I've always travelled with the master off as per my last caravan. It seems in this one you do keep it on for the fridge to get power. Its no where in the manual though just another user has told me, all this time i thought i had no ignition live as well lol.

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