Jump to content
Alexak

Rear shock replacement

Recommended Posts

I have lost (well not me personally but the munchkins have nicked it) one of the protective boots for the rear shock.

Impressed it can be done all from the wheel arch, normally it is interior trim out to get to the top fittings

So that wil be a job for next weekend.

 

Also never heard of deci newton metres before although the meaning is pretty obvious.

http://www.lorenz-sensors.com/english/company/torque_unit_calculation.php

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No it just isn't there so something must have clobbered it to shatter it somehow

I can't imagine any numpty would have done work on the shock and left it off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found the remnants of the boot at the bottom of the shock absorber.

It is made of thin rubber and was pretty well shredded, It had fallen off because the bump stop which is made from a kind of foam had all but disintegrated including the retain flange for the boot

 

The part was £17.50 and it took probably 30 minutes tops to do.

 

The video above is spot on

 

Now a teaser

Who knows why you must always lower the car so the suspension takes up the load before torquing up the bottom bolt?

 

 

Edited by Alexak

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 13 March 2016 at 3:10 PM, Alexak said:

 

 

Now a teaser

Who knows why you must always lower the car so the suspension takes up the load before torquing up the bottom bolt?

 

Because once load is put on the suspension then the bushes will become twisted which will affect suspension compliance...

On 13 March 2016 at 3:10 PM, Alexak said:

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Absolutely correct, many moons ago on another forum far away, someone thought it was because it was to take up the slack in the eyelet! If there was that much free movement I would be a tad concerned that the wrong shocks were being used!

 

Hint if following the above video when undoing the top nut (18mm) the chrome spindle will also certainly rotate slightly so mark the body and spindle with masking tap and a pencil line.

 

When tightening up the nut try to get them perfectly realigned, the seals will have adapted to the surface irregularities of the spindle. By getting them misaligned there is a slight increase in risk that the seal may fail sooner than it otherwise might I underline the term slight here!

 

The other thing to keep in mind is you definitely do need a jack under the arm because on removal the shock contracts quite a bit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks fairly simple to do. Just noticed my rear bump stops need replacing. 

Is it necessary to replace the bolts when they are removed or is this just good practice? 

Want to make sure I’ve got all the bits before starting the job. 

F2A3B92E-277B-468B-898F-BB871A933F51.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

Bmw will tell you to replace nuts and bolts, but when you get your local BMW dealer to do this work under warranty they reuse the old nuts and bolts.

 

Spot on. I'd wager new nuts and bolts are being paid for by the warranty company. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I got my rear Spring replaced under warranty I should have got a new lower strut to hub bolt and three new top mount nuts. Lower bolt did not look new.

 

I did not get a break down of the parts fitted under warranty like you would have if you were paying.

 

Similar every time a new a/c condenser is fitted, the strut brace needs to come out and sure enough you are meant to replace the nuts. Not that they looked new on mine after the condenser job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With the rear wheel off, I noticed the protective boot at the top of the shock was disintegrating - well the foam bit was. 

The video posted by Alexak makes it look easy to replace.

Any advice on which make to go for. SACHS, Monroe (which seem to have a different colour bump stop insert which may be a more robust material?) or does it not matter with a component like this?

 

Thanks!

 

 


 

20190112_121733.jpg

Edited by Caesar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Replaced the rear shock absorber boots today. Thanks to Alexak's post with the you tube link, found it fairly straightforward. 

This is the shock with the original boot and top mounting bracket. The 3 bolts securing the top bracket were easy to undo:

20190217_114133.jpg

 

This is what the two boots looked like after 8 years and 50k miles. One of the boots had started to split:

20190217_154852.thumb.jpg.db21b5eb060a88d75004c32473e2f62a.jpg

 

 

Naked shocker:

20190217_121226.thumb.jpg.daa78e906586ee7d72c8cf94403ee88e.jpg

 

Back in place with its new Sachs boot and rubber locating bung:

20190217_125110.thumb.jpg.401ebeea976ad5e785bc65949471464f.jpg

 

The you tube mechanic had the car in the air so could torque the bottom bolt quite easily once the wheel was back on.

I didn't think I'd be able to get under the car once the car was back on the ground, so I jacked up the suspension arm, then torqued up the lower bolt. Not sure if this has the same effect but seemed a reasonable alternative. 

 

Just curious, would the split cover have led to an mot failure :?:

Edited by Caesar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good job. Looks much better.

I think mine are in a similar state and I will probably do them once the weather improves a little


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×