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I have no idea why it is so bad, had the car 2.5 years , I used to park nose up, but don't anymore. I suspect this is there previous owner, just glad I have a new conver in place. Got my local garage to do it when they were sorting the rear suspension out. At some point I need to silicone the new one

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On 1/12/2020 at 2:52 PM, Skynet5 said:

I must say, whilst I enjoy my software engineering job, I feel like I missed a career in elements of car design that I might have enjoyed. 

Yes... BrittleMoneystealingWaterbucket could have used your help!:-D

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On 4/9/2020 at 8:00 PM, tals said:

I have no idea why it is so bad, had the car 2.5 years , I used to park nose up, but don't anymore. I suspect this is there previous owner, just glad I have a new conver in place. Got my local garage to do it when they were sorting the rear suspension out. At some point I need to silicone the new one

You need to check drainage holes. Mine were actually closed, so even without leaf build up they didn't really drain. 

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On 2/20/2020 at 4:24 AM, Skynet5 said:

All these storms... New members will be here shortly. 

 

 

That would be me. 

 

But the view is that there is no yellow Grommet on the Rt passenger fire wall of a LHD in the US.

Ironic, considering that there would be a matching punch-out which would mirror a RHD. But I'll take Andrew's and Matthews word for it. I did not want to look forward to a 20 hr repair as the gentleman with the M5 did. I have an M6. :cry:

 

Also. Noted your endoscope camera picture. How did you get it in above? By any chance would water leak in from there? Seeing all the Yellow Grommet pictures and the plate covering it, some of you captured a rim of galvanized metal just above it -which made me wonder- if that would have also contributed the water intrusion in to the space as well as some pine needles and dirt. 

 

Thanks.

Edited by Numoo
words

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6 hours ago, Skynet5 said:

You need to check drainage holes. Mine were actually closed, so even without leaf build up they didn't really drain. 

 

I think it must have been before I had the car, I've had damp in the rear carpet but tbh not as bad as that gromit would indicate. Since I have parked nose down I have found that the area under the bonnet hinge is dry. I do a visual check fairly regularly to make sure leaves arnt collecting.

 

I know when I put a reasonable amount of water down under the hinge it did show water at the wheel and then that moved to the center as it came out of the isolation cover.

 

The isolation cover only (last year) i  added an escape route if water gets behind it but from what you were saying although under the bonnet hinge is a reason, the water does come directly above as well so the only solution on that is to make enough escape area in the isolation cover for any water that collects in it?

 

 

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On 4/21/2020 at 11:59 PM, Numoo said:

That would be me. 

 

But the view is that there is no yellow Grommet on the Rt passenger fire wall of a LHD in the US.

Ironic, considering that there would be a matching punch-out which would mirror a RHD. But I'll take Andrew's and Matthews word for it. I did not want to look forward to a 20 hr repair as the gentleman with the M5 did. I have an M6. :cry:

 

Also. Noted your endoscope camera picture. How did you get it in above? By any chance would water leak in from there? Seeing all the Yellow Grommet pictures and the plate covering it, some of you captured a rim of galvanized metal just above it -which made me wonder- if that would have also contributed the water intrusion in to the space as well as some pine needles and dirt. 

 

Thanks.

Endoscope just followed one of the paths water takes from the windscreen. Straight down from above inline where the grommet is. 

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19 hours ago, tals said:

 

I think it must have been before I had the car, I've had damp in the rear carpet but tbh not as bad as that gromit would indicate. Since I have parked nose down I have found that the area under the bonnet hinge is dry. I do a visual check fairly regularly to make sure leaves arnt collecting.

 

I know when I put a reasonable amount of water down under the hinge it did show water at the wheel and then that moved to the center as it came out of the isolation cover.

 

The isolation cover only (last year) i  added an escape route if water gets behind it but from what you were saying although under the bonnet hinge is a reason, the water does come directly above as well so the only solution on that is to make enough escape area in the isolation cover for any water that collects in it?

 

 

Correct. It flows both ways down from the windscreen. Routes are:

 

1. To the grommet area,  which flows then through a hole to the well area under the hinge. 

2. Straight down to the well under the hinge. 

 

That's why cleaning the grommet area and modding it as you have done helps lots. Unless you keep the escape flaps very clear in the hinge well and the connecting hole. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Skynet5

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On 4/21/2020 at 11:59 PM, Numoo said:

That would be me. 

 

But the view is that there is no yellow Grommet on the Rt passenger fire wall of a LHD in the US.

Ironic, considering that there would be a matching punch-out which would mirror a RHD. But I'll take Andrew's and Matthews word for it. I did not want to look forward to a 20 hr repair as the gentleman with the M5 did. I have an M6. :cry:

 

 

 Unless it is very different the standard f10 or f11 it's very easy to see, take off the acoustic cover (I'm not great at the mechanical stuff but this was within my capability) and voila :)  if they are looking at the newer g series then I believe they would be correct that is using a different design so won't have this issue and could be the confusion.

 

I understood that this wasn't limited to the 5 series but not sure on that.

 

For the m series cars I understand the ventilation system gets in the way so not such an easy fix or visual.

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^ it's only an issue on our RHD cars. 

 

BMW only make one bulkhead for both LHD and RHD cars.

RHD cars have then an extra hole formed on the right hand side for our steering columns. They then fill or plug the hole that is there on the left hand side with the yellow grommet.

 

LHD cars: That hole on the left hand side is where the steering column goes thru the bulkhead on LHD cars so the hole is filled with steering column so there isn't a water path into the cabin. There is then no corresponding hole on the right hand side as there is nothing needed to pass thru the bulkhead at that location

 

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4 minutes ago, Skynet5 said:

All cars are basically LHD, until they whack a hole in on the right and cover the original one of the left. 

 

Production line efficiency. 

 

 

 

Exactly that. 

 

Whilst it is a production line efficiency, it's a maintenance liability tho.

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5 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

Exactly that. 

 

Whilst it is a production line efficiency, it's a maintenance liability tho.

We do have this thread though. It's what brought me to the forum I think. I love my grommet. 

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19 minutes ago, Skynet5 said:

It's what brought me to the forum I think. 

 

And you aren't alone. ;) it's good for the forum, just not good for those who have a puddle!

 

20 minutes ago, Skynet5 said:

 I love my grommet. 

 

Lol!

 

A divorce is in sight for me as I've got a new one to go in, which if my work laptop doesn't start working, I can't do anything from home today so I might as well do something on the car.

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That grommet picture above looks terrible - the material looks to have started to disintegrate.  I'm thinking periodic replacement of these might be an idea or a more permanent solution involving a metal plate, rivets and some seam sealer.

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When I inspected mine last year, I could see there had been a noticeable deterioration in the lips of my grommet, hence why I ordered a new one.

 

The grommet is literally the last line of defence in keeping water out the car.  Your scuttle drains need to be clean and clear as does the plenum created between the grommet and its cover.  If those are free draining, a slightly disintegrating grommet shouldn't give any issues I don't think, but cleaning out the scuttle drains is a bit more involved with wheel arch liners having to come away first.

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Guys yesterday I came across this problem after hours of driving in rain. Now the rear passenger footwell is soaking wet. I believe it should be dried out first. Can anybody tell me how do I lift the carpet up in that particular area to get all that damn dampness out. Some guys on Youtube have done it [Refer images] but I don't want to break anything. If any lad here could point me in the right direction I'll be much grateful. Thanks mates.

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Short of removing a substantial list of items to get the carpet out

 

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-535i-lim_201301/repair-manuals/51-body-equipment/51-47-floor-luggage-compartment-engine-compartment-trim-panel/GqnQbrhI

 

you are probably doing the right thing from your pics.

 

You will need to find the source of the water ingress, be it the yellow grommet on this thread or the door seals.

 

Clear out the plenum chamber in front of the yellow grommet of all the debris and clear out the nearside scuttle drain point to make sure it doesn't happen again. 

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That's exactly how I did it. I used a carpet cleaner to vacuum the water, then packed with towels under the foam and stood on the carpet foam to release the remaining water into the towels. Also much driving with heater on full. With daily treatment as above the car took about 2 weeks to dry out.

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On 13/05/2020 at 02:53, thuzithanwn said:

Guys yesterday I came across this problem after hours of driving in rain. Now the rear passenger footwell is soaking wet. I believe it should be dried out first. Can anybody tell me how do I lift the carpet up in that particular area to get all that damn dampness out. Some guys on Youtube have done it [Refer images] but I don't want to break anything. If any lad here could point me in the right direction I'll be much grateful. Thanks mates.

1.PNG

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4.PNG

 

Check your rear door . 

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Regardless of what you do on the carpet you need to get to the root cause of the issue as you will dry you carpet and then some rain will come and you will have the issue again.

 

I wasn't clear from your post whether you had done that, if not I'd suggest reading through this whole thread, really informative, the main area is ensuring the acoustic cover has an escape route and you keep the area under the passenger side bonnet hinge clear (I use a fish tank grabber). 

 

As has just been said it could be the door vapour seals , as I understand it you should see the water route more clearly if it's that.

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Thanks for the reply guys. Yeah I'm still on my way to find the root cause. I have read like the first 20 pages and I'm aware that most guys have the issue with yellow grommet. Before investigating that I figured I must dry out the interior first. Stagnated water isn't a friend. Bad odor and and it may damage the electricals etc.. So just want to share my experiences here on the first step regarding the drying out part. I write this post so that even an amateur can DIY it. It's best if you could park the car in an inclined surface. With that way you can get out all the water that has seeped in.

 

So how to dry out the rear passenger footwell if it's soaking wet? Follow the steps listed below.

 

 

1. Start with removing the rear seat. Steps are here. There are videos about it as well.

 

2. Refer the image below. This is what you see when you remove the seat.

 

1..thumb.jpg.e535afc2224214d1177eaaee0bb67fce.jpg

 

2.1 The carpet is the beige color thing (in my case) and it's a bit thick. It's not pasted on to the body. It's kept in place with apertures like 1 and those serve as alignment points. Just lift it and remove it.

2.2 Work your way from here and you can get the carpet out slowly as there is a significant gap between entrance cover strip (Beige colored plastic trim to the right of the image) and the carpet. You can see that gap in the image as well.

2.3 Pull the carpet slightly downwards and then lift slowly near the joint between entrance cover strip and lower door column liner.

 

3. Now you're here.

 

2..thumb.jpg.19a4e8650b116739ed62013b5d518cdb.jpg

 

Put a piece of wood or something to refrain the carpet from coming down. Make sure not to use a pointy thing as wood risk of piercing the carpet. Even with the wooden piece I placed a flat plastic to reduce the pressure exerting on the carpet. (I'm just being extra careful guys. That's how much I care about my car <3)

 

Well. Welcome to the the well :D You may witness the pool of water stagnated here. Just get it out. I used my wet vacuum cleaner. For those who doesn't have a wet vacuum, a bucket and and a sponge/cloth will be the saviors. If you're parked in a ramp you will witness that water will get stagnated even after cleaning using the vacuum. Those are the water drops that are in the carpet sponge. This is a long process guys. It depends on how much much water has leaked here.

 

3. There's a limit of water, a wet vacuum can get out. Others will be vaporable. I don't have a dehumidifier. So I used a simple fix. Use a fan. Keep the car in the sunlight for a bit and then use a fan to get the existing dampness out. Make sure to open all 4 doors as it gives the chance to move the air out.

 

3..thumb.jpg.ac1de504e60751b2254b283a84dec02d.jpg

 

 

I did remove almost all of the water with this way. It should be your first step in fixing the water leak. Next step is finding the water ingress. I'll do that during this lockdown :D And I will most certainly  share those steps here as well.

 

Cheers

Edited by thuzithanwn

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I think the water coming in rear thought rear door .. Google f10 rear door vapor barrier 

 

I had this same fault cleaned the yellow grommet and then found out it was vapor barrier in the doors have come away ... just need to re sealant back 

 

 

Edited by paz5432

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