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So I am now the 10th owner of JohnWs ix touring. So far so good, it's got a lot of miles under its belt, but has been given lots of love so wears them well.

It's lpg converted and is currently returning about 25mpg on gas which equates to a little over 50mpg :D which is way better than my petrol 525iat.

It's got an odd problem which seems to just be on startup when using petrol that sometimes it is really lacking power, but when the gas ones on the power kicks in. John kindly supplied a blue temp sensor so I'll change that in. I've also purchased a trans filter for an oil change and some filters: oil, cabin and air. So far just fitted the air filter as it's an easy win.

Other problems are:

3rd brake light (factory fitted option) does not work - is this an mot fail?

Door tweeters exist but seem to do nothing- do I need to make a crossover and splice them in behind the kick panels?

Instrument cluster odo reset not working, lights out and dodgy fuel gauge - Geoff may have kindly sourced me a replacement cluster :)

Rusty hole it the roof at the rear where a previous aerial was - I'll pro get a dab aerial and fit it as in my old touring.

Rust creeping in a door bottom and arches.

Seems a little low on power when trying to accelerate up hills, it may just be the extra weight of the transmission it's lugging.

Other than these items it's great! It's had a decent re spray, electric seats fitted, auto dip mirror, map lights front and rear. The 4wd certainly gives massive confidence in the corners and gives eager handling along with the rack and pinion steering.

For the engine oil change opine oils and other sites seem to recommend 10w40 semi, from the records it looks like it's had 15w40 and on here people suggest 5w30??? Given that it's a 190k engine should I stick to the 10w40 "dino juice" ?

I'll get some pics up soon :)

Edited by MikeTheSmith

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Love an iX. I would have definitely had this if it had been advertised a couple of weeks earlier. Good luck with her.

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Hi Mike,

 

3rd light is a fail if it is presented with less than 50% of the bulbs working.  If it is presented with no bulbs working, i.e. is disconnected, it should pass.  I think I once had to put black tape over mine when it was installed but before I got it working to make it clear to the tester that it was not presented to be included as part of the test.  To disconnect it, the connectors are tucked away in the offside D pillar, you should see a twin cable come out of the right handside of the tailgate glass as you look at it, that then go to a rubber grommet.  Pull the grommet out and disconnect the black and white connectors.

 

Re oil, I use Castrol 10W40 Magnatec.

 

Re going up hills, time you found the sports button on the auto transmission.  Max torque on the single vanos engine is at 4200rpm and you need to get high revs to get good torque, the M50 being an oversquare engine.  What I do is when going up steep hills, I flick it into sports mode for as long as it takes to get up the hill, then back into economy..That way, you get good performance and a wonderful sound, albeit at the expense of fuel economy.  But what's the point in having an M50 engined car if you don't rev it from time to time :-)

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Today's job was cabin filter change. Actually a straight forward job, which is nice.

Can you spot the new one?

Top tip: GSF car parts filter is the rhd two piece one and they have 35% off this weekend using sep35 code.

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Found two brakes in the tailgate wiring. Repaired the third brake light one so far. It had made absolutely no difference. I have tried to remove the third brake light only to find the screws that hold them are rusted with sheared heads.

I have tried to drill them out and use an easy out but with no joy, these go right through the light and into the top of the spoiler so it looks like it's stuck good and proper.

:(

Oh and the underside is a mixture of covered with oil or holes to the carpet.

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Ha! Got there in the end. Had to cut through the rusted bolts using trimmed down junior hacksaw blades and my flesh. Only to find the wires had disconnected, plugged them in and it worked.

May replace the bulbs with LEDs now.

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Middle exhaust hangers replaced. Hopefully this will resolve the clonking sound that it makes along the road. The heat shield seems to be resting on the back box where it has broken away around the holding bolts. Any ideas on a fix? I guess it's replace or some kind of huge washer?

LEDs on order for the brake light :) that be 24 bulbs to de-solder and 24 LEDs to solder in.

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Edited by MikeTheSmith

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Fuel filter last night. Had to drill out the rusted off stud and replace with nut and bolt along with some perished fuel pipe. The last filter was held in place with cable ties :(

Looks like someone has decided to test out the off road capabilities judging by the amount of mud covering everything underneath! Not looking forward to removing the sill covers.

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Replaced sparks today. All little jobs fitting in around life, but hopefully they'll make a difference. Old spark plugs were standard and looked tired. New ones are lpg specific so will be interesting to see how they hold up.

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This mornings work was replacing the blue temp sensor. Hopefully this will resolve the sluggish start on petrol. It seems to almost max out ar 40mph on the motorway from a old start (I work right by the motorway) but when it switches to gas the power comes on.

It seems a bit of a pain removing the manifold to get to a sensor but there you go.

Would it be worth grinding down the injector nozzles with a Dremel?

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This seems to have clips missing :( just a loose fit - is this a problem do you know?

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Ye olde sensor:

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It idles a little higher from cold start now which is nice so hopefully it's good. It didn't catch fire from all the petrol from the injector rail either :)

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The LEDs arrived so replaced the old lamps. Seems ok so far, but the resistor is getting v hot! Will have to look into it.

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Still no power starting from old of petrol though, so some parts on order from the dealer to try and rule out a vacuum leak. :(

Edited by MikeTheSmith

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It's been ages since I have updated this so there is some catching up to do. I fitted the led 3rd brake light a while ago. I ended up using two resistors with I built heat sinks and mounting to the bodywork for extra cooling. No pics of it use yet.

 

 

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Unfortunately the overheating continued. Which ended up with lots of white smoke, coolant use and very hot running. :(

I assume that the head is cracked or gasket gone (optimistic).

 

swapped back to the 525i and now the ix looks like this

 

 

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The plan is to take out the engine, strip it, replace the head if needed and then fit the m54b30 crank and Pistons to make it all worthwhile.

 

removing the fron driveshafts took ages until I watched a you tube video on how it is done on an X5. The Bentley manual does not cover the ix.

 

for anyone's ref the way I found was to remove the steering tie rod and the bolt that holds the shock on. Then pivot down the hub - after removing the hub nut. Then the shaft can be pulled out fairly easily with a little persuasion at the front diff.

 

Also found that the cv gaiter is split so add that to the list of jobs.

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My biggest problem for now is how to remove the exhaust. I think I need to split it at the joint on the down pipe after the headers, but I can only access half of the nuts. All of he ix gubbins seems to get in the way. Has anyone got any ideas on how to go about this? Maybe the centre joint is best to split, but that needs cutting apart due to rust and I'm not sure how I could remove the engine with that length still attached.

 

do I need to remove the front subframe?

 

 

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Re the gaiter - you get grease included in the bmw kits. BMW list an inner and an outer gaiter but you get both when you order the inner (31 60 1 227 838 ). 

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Re exhaust - I usually take the back half of to make handling the front / cat section easier. Most times the fasteners in the middle are past it and need to be replaced anywa. 

Unless the Mani to pipe nuts are rusted away to nothing much, I have used a mix of 3/8ths and 1/2 " sockets, extensions and knuckle joints (plus lots penetrating oil)  to then get the front section off. 

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Finally managed to get the transmission out today. Must be so much easier without a grin subframe in the way at the front and a transfer case at the back.

 

thinking I may try to put it back in attached to the engine if I can.

 

 

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Mike, you need to consider whether converting to M54B30 internals is a sensible thing to do as your car is an auto and the auto gearbox ecu is, I assume, programmed for the power output of a M50TUB25.  Not sure if it can be reprogrammed or mapped to accomodate the power differences of the M50B30 or what impact the differences would have on gearbox management anyway.

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It’s a 5hp18 which I think is the same box that was used in the Alpina allrad and I think the e32 730. This should mean that the box itself is up to the task, but I don’t know much about transmissions so any advice is welcome. I think the ecu has some learning capability but I will see what I can find out.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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