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F10 530d

What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

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Diesel Fuel Filter Change, this was the first change for the fuel filter at 32,300 miles, I noted that BMW say approx 37,700 but as it was convenient for me to do it early, this was how I completed the task warning picture heavy, tools I  used 8 mm and 10 mm sockets, Milwaukee M12IR-201B 12v 1x2.0Ah Li-ion 3/8in Cordless Impact Ratchet, just socket set would do, but there is a lot of small bolts to undo, and the impact ratchet is ideal and quick, wheel  ramps, although you can use a hydraulic jack and axle stands jacking up the near side, a container to catch the diesel when removing old filter,  nitrile gloves, you should wear safety glasses diesel to prevent any diesel in your eyes, finally if this is the first fuel filter change you need  jubilee clip as the original clips are one use only, I used two stainless jubilee clips one at each end as I found it easier to put the U clip back in the new filter and fuel heater unit of the car.



 



Once of the ground remove all the small 8mm bolts from the under body plastic tray this will expose the fuel filter which is situated  just behind the N/S front wheel and the front passenger door.



Removing-Plastic-Cover.jpg



Plastic-Cover-Removed.jpg



Old-Fuel-Filter-in-Situ.jpg



Remove-U-Shaped-Clip.jpg



Remove front fuel pipe clip or both as I did.



Old-Original-Fuel-Filter-Mahle.jpg



Not:-BMW used Mahle fuel filter.



imageproxy.php?img=&key=a752e9eef3625401https://i.postimg.cc/SQT4JvdX/Remove-Insulation-Rubber-and-fit-to-New-Filter.jp




New-Fuel-Filter.jpg








New-Filter-Fitted.jpg








At this stage I restarted the engine to check for any diesel leaks before replacing the plastic underbody tray, I also washed the underbody tray off both sides before refitting, note engine won't start straight away I just pressed the start button on and off several times without my foot on brake to prime the fuel pump.








 


Note:- Forgot to mention to remove the fuel filter above you have to remove filter bracket with 10mm socket, on refitting make sure the rubber insulation band under the bracket, is fitted back on the new filter in same position as old filter, also make sure you fit the new rubber washer that is supplied with the new filter, it placed between the filter and the fuel heater unit, before replacing the U clip.

Fit-New-Supplied-Rubber-washer.jpg

Edited by Oilburner
Added detail that was missing

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12 minutes ago, Oilburner said:

Diesel Fuel Filter Change, this was the first change for the fuel filter at 32,300 miles, I noted that BMW say approx 37,700 but as it was convenient for me to do it early, this was how I completed the task warning picture heavy, tools I  used 8 mm and 10 mm sockets, Milwaukee M12IR-201B 12v 1x2.0Ah Li-ion 3/8in Cordless Impact Ratchet, just socket set would do, but there is a lot of small bolts to undo, and the impact ratchet is ideal and quick, wheel  ramps, although you can use a hydraulic jack and axle stands jacking up the near side, a container to catch the diesel when removing old filter,  nitrile gloves, you should wear safety glasses diesel to prevent any diesel in your eyes, finally if this is the first fuel filter change you need  jubilee clip as the original clips are one use only, I used two stainless jubilee clips one at each end as I found it easier to put the U clip back in the new filter and fuel heater unit of the car.

 

Once of the ground remove all the small 8mm bolts from the under body plastic tray this will expose the fuel filter which is situated  just behind the N/S front wheel and the front passenger door.

Removing-Plastic-Cover.jpg

Plastic-Cover-Removed.jpg

Old-Fuel-Filter-in-Situ.jpg

Remove-U-Shaped-Clip.jpg

Remove front fuel pipe clip or both as I did.

Old-Original-Fuel-Filter-Mahle.jpg

Not:-BMW used Mahle fuel filter.

imageproxy.php?img=&key=a752e9eef3625401https://i.postimg.cc/SQT4JvdX/Remove-Insulation-Rubber-and-fit-to-New-Filter.jp

New-Fuel-Filter.jpg

New-Filter-Fitted.jpg

At this stage I restarted the engine to check for any diesel leaks before replacing the plastic underbody tray, I also washed the underbody tray off both sides before refitting, note engine won't start straight away I just pressed the start button on and off several times without my foot on brake to prime the fuel pump.

 

Photo heavy is always good 

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Washed my F10 today after a while, and then decided to do some cleaning inside the engine, took off throttle body and the plastic pipe connecting it to intake manifold, and oh dear lord, so much oily gunk inside intake manifold and that little plastic pipe...:blink: no surprise she's done 145K miles already, now I'm really thinking to take off the intake manifold for a good clean, but I couldn't today as I started working late and it got dark. Also it looks quite a big job removing it and cleaning... I can already feel slight difference how better she drives:) Here's some pictures how it looked...

20210702_191544.jpg

20210702_191610.jpg

20210702_191540.jpg

Edited by Rimvyz

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Most people on here will probably know how to change the cabin filter/pollen filter, but it's not that easy location to see where the 4 torx screws are, and it's most likely easier when the vehicle is on a ramp lifted, but for DIY people it can be done its just awkward because you can't see where all the tox screws are, so to make it easier I took some photos of my phone, which may help people changing the cabin filter for the first time, knowing where all the torx screws are, Tools used I think it was T10 or T15 Torx bit socket, and a torch

 

IMPORTANT:- Before removing anything, turn of the passenger airbag system, the switch is situated  on the end of passenger side of dashboard, it can be turned with a screwdriver, DON'T forget once everything is re assembled and airbag wiring plugged back in,  turn the passenger airbag system back on.

 

The cabin filter is situated in the front passenger footwell below the glovebox, before removing the lower plastic piece, you have to remove a single torx screw which is holding a bit of carpet trim, this can now be slid out of the way,  allowing the removal of the lower plastic piece once lowered down you can then disconnect the airbag wire, and move it out of the way to access the pollen filter cover plate, referring to the photo to see where the torx screws are located there is only one that's difficult to see..

 

In hindsight, I should have included a photo of the lower plastic piece which contains airbag and wiring, and the single torx screw holding the side carpet piece of trim, but they are easy to locate.

 

  Cabin-Filter-Cover.jpg

 

Cabin-Filter-Cover-Removed.jpg

 

 

Cabin-Filter.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Well as it's finally stopped raining I thought I'd pop out in the lovely 30c sunshine and check/clean my EGR valve and throttle body in the wake of the current 'lumpy when cold' performance.

 

Despite the info from others on here and one or two YouTube videos on the subject, it's a B***H of a job to get the damned thing apart on the N57D.

This said, no blood was spilled and after much imaginative use of bad words in English, German, Serbo-Croat and Arabic I got the valve out only to find it's a very reasonable condition. Only a light soot coating and free, unrestricted movement.

 

Either way I still gave it a clean and the actuator mech a nice greasing.

 

The throttle body wasn't much different, so after a wipe down that went back in too.

 

For those wondering I did take a couple of pics - firstly of the valve's position in the N57D (black cap removed but you get the idea of just how cramped it is). All the surrounding pipework and covers are removed, so you may have to hunt for yours.

Second was supposed to show the actuator mech but the wonders of technology focussed on the surrounding cable ducting. You can still make it out though.

 

 

N57D EGR.jpg

N57D EGR Mech.jpg

Edited by HandyAndy_UK

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I’ve cleaned and dried it myself and squeezed £101.36 worth of Shell V-Power Diesel.  Made it to the garage with 0 miles left on range.

 

1144DE30-945D-43C5-83A2-8AAF7AEAB532.jpeg

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1 hour ago, DarenF said:

squeezed £101.36 worth of Shell V-Power Diesel.  Made it to the garage with 0 miles left on range.

 

 

 

Ooofft I bet you were clenched!   :lol:
 

I’ve put 64 litres in as the most once. Can never remember is it 70 or 75 litre tank? 

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39 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

Ooofft I bet you were clenched!   :lol:
 

I’ve put 64 litres in as the most once. Can never remember is it 70 or 75 litre tank? 

 

70L

I rolled down Wrotham Hill across two roundabouts and into the Shell, pump 6.

 

Sweating profusely

 

Lucky

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42 minutes ago, HandyAndy_UK said:

70 with 68 useable

 


Cheers

 

When I fill up the pump will click and cut out, but I can get another 5 litres or so in if I dribble it in over another 5 mins annoying the punter behind me in the queue. Anyone else find that? Might just be a petrol thing as they have smaller necks to prevent incorrect filling. 

 

Come to think of it, I’ve only filled up once this calendar year as I’m working from home and live under a dictatorship, where any form of going out/driving/doing what I want to do is not allowed so few miles have been driven this year. 

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20 hours ago, 535i Andrew said:


Cheers

 

When I fill up the pump will click and cut out, but I can get another 5 litres or so in if I dribble it in over another 5 mins annoying the punter behind me in the queue. Anyone else find that? Might just be a petrol thing as they have smaller necks to prevent incorrect filling. 

 

Come to think of it, I’ve only filled up once this calendar year as I’m working from home and live under a dictatorship, where any form of going out/driving/doing what I want to do is not allowed so few miles have been driven this year. 

 

I have a 530d and I find that when the pump clicks then that's usually it and won't go any further (at my local BP at least, perhaps it is different with different kinds of pumps).

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1 hour ago, mullinsj08 said:

 

I have a 530d and I find that when the pump clicks then that's usually it and won't go any further (at my local BP at least, perhaps it is different with different kinds of pumps).

 

I think Andrew is filling up his overflow pipe! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

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51 minutes ago, DarenF said:

 

I think Andrew is filling up his overflow pipe! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

 

It's a petrol 535 - probably just forgotten to turn the engine off.

 

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14 hours ago, DarenF said:

 

I think Andrew is filling up his overflow pipe! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

 

Lol, I have been known to check under the car for signs of it escaping but nothing dumped on the forecourt concrete I can assure you. 

 

My car can hold it's drink just as well as its owner thank you:P

 

13 hours ago, Boba said:

 

probably just forgotten to turn the engine off.

 

 

Ah so that's what I'm doing wrong when I fill up.  I'll switch it off next time.:D

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I just had a new one of these fitted to each corner.  Wow!  What a difference.  BMW fitment, Extra load, run flats.  Amazing

 

1356DFD5-92A4-4DBF-BDBB-6AED9F374053.jpeg

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1 hour ago, DarenF said:

I just had a new one of these fitted to each corner.  Wow!  What a difference.  BMW fitment, Extra load, run flats.  Amazing

 

1356DFD5-92A4-4DBF-BDBB-6AED9F374053.jpeg

I bet those were expensive per corner 

 

 

Whats ride like what did you have on before...

Edited by marko530d

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I had Bridgestone Turenza Runflats but they were awful.  All wobbly in the rear.

I changed the rears form a pair of P Zero’s NON run flats but they were beyond rubbish

 

So I bit the bullet and spent from my service fund £900 at Black Circles.

 

Best ever

 

Michelin Pilot Sport 4 BMW Runflats Extra Load.  Worth the spend I now know

 

Someone told me that the insurance company insist on the right tyres too.  Won’t payout on wrong fits

 

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18 minutes ago, marko530d said:

I bet those were expensive per corner 

 

 

Whats ride like what did you have on before...

Sorry, forgot

 

The ride is amazing.  Just how a 5 should.  Silent, super smooth and the confidence in the very first bend I came to without thinking was immense

 

 

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5 minutes ago, DarenF said:

I had Bridgestone Turenza Runflats but they were awful.  All wobbly in the rear.

I changed the rears form a pair of P Zero’s NON run flats but they were beyond rubbish

 

So I bit the bullet and spent from my service fund £900 at Black Circles.

 

Best ever

 

Michelin Pilot Sport 4 BMW Runflats Extra Load.  Worth the spend I now know

 

Someone told me that the insurance company insist on the right tyres too.  Won’t payout on wrong fits

 

Never been a fan of Bridgestone 

 

Currently ruining dunlop sp sport maxx (currently 4mm on rears) 

 

Looking for replacements 

 

Glad your happy with them ....

 

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@DarenF

 

Nice choice of tyre. I have version 3 of that tyre and it’s totally planted in the bends. It transformed the way the car drove. In fact it inspired so much confidence in the bends that I noticed my driving style change as I would carry plenty speed into the twisty bits and corner like it’s on rails. 
 

Probably explains why both my front wheel bearings are shot from enthusiastic cornering.

 

I fitted these as they were the equivalent to what it came on the factory wearing and were the only Cat A rated for wet braking on my size. 
 

But yeah a bit nippy in the wallet department. 

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3 hours ago, marko530d said:

Never been a fan of Bridgestone 

 

Currently ruining dunlop sp sport maxx (currently 4mm on rears) 

 

Looking for replacements 

 

Glad your happy with them ....

 

 

Outstanding...

https://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/michelin/pilot-sport-4-zero-pressure/275/35/R19/Y/100/m?tyre=39724359

 

I don't know what the Zero Pressure is though?

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37 minutes ago, percha said:

Just another wording for "Run Flat", did you get a new wheel in the end @DarenF for your bent one?

Cheaper than what I have on mine, https://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/goodyear/excellence/245/40/R19/Y/98/f?tyre=27709572

 

What do you think of those @percha

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I think I will stick with Goodyear Excellence as it came with from factory, I certainly have no complaints other than the usual with runflats (after some years they can crack and split between sidewall and tread which happened to mine).

Edited by percha

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