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F10 530d

What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

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I put the summer wheels back on the car today. 2 new Goodyear asymmetric 5s on the rears which I had Road Force balanced a few weeks ago. The fronts are left over from last year with a good 5mm tread left on them so I'm hoping fronts and rears will wear out at more or less the same time so I can fit a full new set sometime next year.

 

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I was planning to leave the winters shod with Crossclimates on for a while to get a few more miles out of the rears before they needed replacing but my hand was forced by...

 

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That's definitely beyond repair but as it turned out one of the rears was approaching 1.6mm on the inside edge anyway so the nail probably did me a favour in drawing my attention to what I really needed to be looking at.

 

While the wheels were off I gave brake disc centres a bit of a clean up with some metal polish.

 

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Not looking too shabby for just elbow grease.

 

Next job will be oil and oil/air/cabin filters sometime in the next fortnight. Filter supplies ordered from Autodoc and on the way :D

 

 

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Used the sunny long weekend to diagnose a PPS alert following hitting flying debris at 230 kmh last weekend. 

Codes bring back a front, centre sensor fault and having had the nosecone off this morning to check connections, etc I have a new sensor on order.

 

As I'm spending the money I thought I may as well replace the front section of the right, front wheelarch liner which hadn't been correctly reattached when I got it and rubbed against the tyre at speeds over about 140kmh. I replaced all the fixings a while ago but as the exchange rate is so good at the moment and I'm ordering the sensor strip, I ordered a new liner at the same time.

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Dropped wheels off to be refurbished.

 

 

Ordered some genuine bmw centre caps too.

Edited by marko530d

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5 hours ago, marko530d said:

Dropped wheels off to be refurbished

 

Where did you take them eventually? 

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2 hours ago, Cadwell Parker said:

 

Where did you take them eventually? 

Hyper coatings Hebburn 

 

£180 shadow chrome 

 

They do all brand new range rovers was 6 in car park.

 

Have a loaner set off them 2 silver 1 shadow chrome 1 matt black .:lol:

 

 

It rides alot smoother with 18 inch wheels fitted.

Edited by marko530d

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3 hours ago, marko530d said:

£180 shadow chrome 

 

That's not bad, Especially including the 'rental' on the spare set. Looking forward to seeing how they turn out.

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20210408-151552.jpg

 

New Centre caps arrived 

 

Call to say alloys are ready too will head over to pick them up.

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Few imperfections but at the money happy with them.

 

 

 Still have bit dust on must be polished.

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They were in very poor condition before just need small msport badges to go on alloys.

Edited by marko530d

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37 minutes ago, marko530d said:

Few imperfections but at the money happy with them.

 

 

 Still have bit dust on must be polished.

 

 

They were in very poor condition before just need small msport badges to go on alloys.

 

They look really good and so much better than this trend of painting alloys black. This really shows off the detail of the alloys.

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6 hours ago, marko530d said:

Few imperfections but at the money happy with them.

 

Good result there. They look good on the car, tasteful without being too 'gangsta'.

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Tried to do my brakes. Ebc discs and yellow stuff pads. First bolt was a security one with a rotating ring. The flower on the security key snapped off and the face of the bolt got mangled. Some of the bolts required a 65cm breaker bar with 100+kg (me)  jumping up and down vigorously to get loose. I rekon 600ftlb of force. Cold chisel + 2 days of hammering and scuffing my rims got the security ring off and paid a garage £10 to use a big Irwin bolt extractor to get the bolt off. Took a picture of the other security bolts and ordered a new key and new normal OEM bolts. The other keys came off ok as I used a fair bit of wd40. They are headed for the bin!  

 

This guy has worked as a bolt tester of sorts and quotes bolt manufacturer specs on how to torque bolts with and without lubrication.

 

Edited by bmwPower

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1 hour ago, bmwPower said:

Tried to do my brakes. Ebc discs and yellow stuff pads. First bolt was a security one with a rotating ring. The flower on the security key snapped off and the face of the bolt got mangled. Some of the bolts required a 65cm breaker bar with 100+kg (me)  jumping up and down vigorously to get loose. I rekon 600ftlb of force. Cold chisel + 2 days of hammering and scuffing my rims got the security ring off and paid a garage £10 to use a big Irwin bolt extractor to get the bolt off. Took a picture of the other security bolts and ordered a new key and new normal OEM bolts. The other keys came off ok as I used a fair bit of wd40. They are headed for the bin!  

 

This guy has worked as a bolt tester of sorts and quotes bolt manufacturer specs on how to torque bolts with and without lubrication.

 

If the bolts are torqued to the BMW spec of 140Nm, including the security bolt, there is no issue. It is the fools equipped with powerful impact wrenches in garages who care little about your car that are the danger.

 

I've been there... 

 

 

 

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@Matthew Ashton Just read most of your post + replies.

Someone commented the below and I witnessed this. QF are the only ones to have had the tyres off in 2 years. Next time I'm in I'll be sure to tell them how much they've cost me in time money and scuffed knuckles!

"Yes, my local ‘Quick’ branch don’t seem to understand that if the torque wrench they use clicks on the first application after the gun it doesn’t mean that the nut/bolt is already at the correct torque.

"

The picture below is a normal bolt that I removed with an Irwin extractor and long breaker bar + 4 days of heating and penetrating oil.

IMG_20210407_170906.jpg

Edited by bmwPower

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40 minutes ago, bmwPower said:

@Matthew Ashton Just read most of your post + replies.

Someone commented the below and I witnessed this. QF are the only ones to have had the tyres off in 2 years. Next time I'm in I'll be sure to tell them how much they've cost me in time money and scuffed knuckles!

"Yes, my local ‘Quick’ branch don’t seem to understand that if the torque wrench they use clicks on the first application after the gun it doesn’t mean that the nut/bolt is already at the correct torque.

"

The picture below is a normal bolt that I removed with an Irwin extractor and long breaker bar + 4 days of heating and penetrating oil.

 

What a pain!

As soon as my car goes in and they do any work needing the wheels removed, I retighten the wheel bolts with my own tools once the car is back home. Thankfully I did that as soon as the F45 got home and could go straight back to the fitters.

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Thought I had bought 4 msport badges but only 1 :roll:

£5 

 

3 more ordered genuine bmw

20210409-141326.jpg

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On 05/01/2019 at 10:07, bmwmike said:

Exited a roundabout sideways this morning as I a) had traction off and b) hadn't noticed how cold it has got. The RFT tyres on the back are not great and I'm looking forward to changing them for GFT's.

 

Reason I had the TC off.. I swear the car drives more smoothly with less rock side to side (hard to explain - really depends on road surface), though the TC light itself is rarely on, so have been experimenting. I think someone else on here mentioned the same a year or so ago. I am not sure why the ride would be smoother as I don't have VDC but I wonder if the tyres are the issue, so will change them asap. If anyone's got any ideas on this I'd love to know.

 

 

 

 

 

Finally got to the bottom of this. Its the tyre pressure monitoring system. Resetting it (non pressure sensor in valve type) has the same effect as turning off the DTC.

 

 

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Ordered some new trim. Recently completed the 550 exhaust trim mod with a new diffuser. my car previously had a towbar and was missing the plate that held the diffuser to the car. I'd been looking around for parts for ages from cars being broken or on ebay etc. Finally bit the bullet and called BMW and to my surprise, the plate and the fixings only came in at £38 which surprisingly is cheaper than what people were asking for second hand parts, and also cheaper than some ebay sellers. 

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Hi Guys
I have a 2012 F10, which started stalling on me, maInly when starting off at junctions, till eventually it cut out twice on a busy road junction, very scary, looked at codes, and changed the pre cat sensor, made no difference at all, next code was post cat sensor, but was told its not that, the code registers as unburnt fuel has gone through the cat. Then took off the EGR valve, bit difficult, but it had already been replaced once by BMW, and so had jubilee clips on. Once off cleaned it with brake cleaner, and drilled a 3mm hole in the plastic cover, there are no electrics in that cover just the moving rod for the valve. Now every couple of months I squirt some WD40 through the hole, it means no need to ever remove the valve again, and since doing this I have covered a thousand miles and no problem.
 
 
 

 

Screen Shot 2021-04-15 at 11.37.20.jpg

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Approaching another 10000 miles on the clock so have changed the oil and filter. One minor hitch with the sump drain plug cover. The captive nut had come adrift so was just spinning on the screw as I was turning it. I had to remove the screws holding the rear edge of the engine undertray so I could get a hand in with some grips to hold the nut, remove the screw and get the cover off. It was corroded and pretty tight but a squirt of WD40 got it moving enough to unscrew. The cover seems safe enough in place by itself and the nut was too far gone to reuse so not having a spare to hand I've left the screw off avoiding another similar struggle next time.

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On 4/15/2021 at 12:11 PM, Deggo27 said:
Hi Guys
I have a 2012 F10, which started stalling on me, maInly when starting off at junctions, till eventually it cut out twice on a busy road junction, very scary, looked at codes, and changed the pre cat sensor, made no difference at all, next code was post cat sensor, but was told its not that, the code registers as unburnt fuel has gone through the cat. Then took off the EGR valve, bit difficult, but it had already been replaced once by BMW, and so had jubilee clips on. Once off cleaned it with brake cleaner, and drilled a 3mm hole in the plastic cover, there are no electrics in that cover just the moving rod for the valve. Now every couple of months I squirt some WD40 through the hole, it means no need to ever remove the valve again, and since doing this I have covered a thousand miles and no problem.
 
 

 

 

Screen Shot 2021-04-15 at 11.37.20.jpg

Not bad solution but not for long time;), last time I had issues with EGR valve I just put fair amount of motor oil on the rod and since then I still don't have issues with it, I used to put WD40 before that and it only lasted few months till the issue comes back, WD40 dries much quicker than normal oil so I recommend using normal motor oil, it's fairly simple to remove that plastic cover. However, I still experience some delays on about 1500 RPM when accelerating from stop, I assume my EGR valve is still bad...

Edited by Rimvyz

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22 hours ago, Rimvyz said:

Not bad solution but not for long time;), last time I had issues with EGR valve I just put fair amount of motor oil on the rod and since then I still don't have issues with it, I used to put WD40 before that and it only lasted few months till the issue comes back, WD40 dries much quicker than normal oil so I recommend using normal motor oil, it's fairly simple to remove that plastic cover. However, I still experience some delays on about 1500 RPM when accelerating from stop, I assume my EGR valve is still bad...

My egr is also on its last legs will try your solution buddy

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