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F10 530d

What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

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1 hour ago, IINexusII said:

 

My side and rear windows are still sheeting from when i applied it 2 years ago...

 

The fronts faded in 10+ months, not helped by the alcohol BMW screenwash. Overall very pleased and have half a bottle left that ill actually be re-applying tomorrow, along with G5 on side mirrors, headlights

 

Is the g5 better on the headlights? 

 

They're getting seriously affected by all the muck in the current weather, not helped by the mileage on them or the little putting in the lenses.

 

The g1 is quite good, it lasts a good while on the rear screen and just makes it easier to get the frost off in the mornings

 

This pack is a couple of years old and has done a few winters for me

 

Worth a go

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11 minutes ago, apples12 said:

Is the g5 better on the headlights? 

 

They're getting seriously affected by all the muck in the current weather, not helped by the mileage on them or the little putting in the lenses.

 

The g1 is quite good, it lasts a good while on the rear screen and just makes it easier to get the frost off in the mornings

 

This pack is a couple of years old and has done a few winters for me

 

Worth a go

 

G1 not designed for perspex / plastic so they recommend G5 for this.

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Filled our F11 full of logs today....will light the wood burner in the living room in a min :D 

 

Might wash and hoover it again tomorrow so least its clean for Christmas day and Boxing day....along with the 208GTI.

 

Full paint correction and detail planned for 27-29th Dec....3 days should do it :) 

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50 minutes ago, dsgrnmcm said:

Prepped the car for our 2145m road trip in to Europe for XMAS!!!!!!!! photos to follow!!!!

 

We need to have a full detailed list of the route sir. There are a number of us on here that do that sort of trip quite regularly, so will be interested in the route you are taking.

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1 hour ago, nashdm2 said:

 

We need to have a full detailed list of the route sir. There are a number of us on here that do that sort of trip quite regularly, so will be interested in the route you are taking.

Link here!!

 

https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/140684-euro-road-trip/?tab=comments#comment-1506461

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Got my order from Cotswolds today which included one of these. Thanks @cotswoldbmwmini.

 

 

ABEE2-F48-8-D22-4-C6-A-B8-CE-EA160-ED04-

 

Its much more oval in shape than I thought. Part number checks out with other pics I've seen.

 

There is a very fine lip to the edge of the grommet which is made of a flexible rubber so there will be an amount of sealing ability but there is no structure behind this edge to support it so I can see why water will seep past especially as the rubber perishes with age.

 

6-C4-F849-C-35-B7-48-E0-A7-BA-AB254-AE8-

 

When I examined it in June this year I could see there was deterioration on this outer edge compared to the inspection of it in May/June 2018.

 

Once it's installed I'll be able to see in the future if there are new tide lines appearing as I can't clean the marks off my current one. I have clean scuttle drains which should all help.

 

 

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Paid £49.95 to be able to drive it again for another year. No advisories. Since that was the 3rd MOT and the protection and free servicing which came with the 5 year service pack is now over, I’ll be moving onto an independent. 

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5 hours ago, 535i Andrew said:

Got my order from Cotswolds today which included one of these. Thanks @cotswoldbmwmini.

 

 

ABEE2-F48-8-D22-4-C6-A-B8-CE-EA160-ED04-

 

Its much more oval in shape than I thought. Part number checks out with other pics I've seen.

 

There is a very fine lip to the edge of the grommet which is made of a flexible rubber so there will be an amount of sealing ability but there is no structure behind this edge to support it so I can see why water will seep past especially as the rubber perishes with age.

 

6-C4-F849-C-35-B7-48-E0-A7-BA-AB254-AE8-

 

When I examined it in June this year I could see there was deterioration on this outer edge compared to the inspection of it in May/June 2018.

 

Once it's installed I'll be able to see in the future if there are new tide lines appearing as I can't clean the marks off my current one. I have clean scuttle drains which should all help.

 

 

It really doesn't look like a seal does it. My lad would design better and he is 7. I guess the designer really didn't expect water flowing past it. 

 

£25? 

 

I wondering whether to seal mine as is, or buy new then seal. 

 

 

Edited by Skynet5

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21 minutes ago, Skynet5 said:

It really doesn't look like a seal does it. My lad would design better and he is 7. I guess the designer really didn't expect water flowing past it. 

 

£25? 

 

I wondering whether to seal mine as is, or buy new then seal. 

 

 

 

Its not meant to seal as such. When new it will have enough sealing properties to provide resistance to water running over the grommet when there is a free path for it to drain away too.

 

The issue is when muck blocks the drains and this then allows a head of water to build up against the seal. This pressure head will then be enough to penetrate the lip of the grommet if it's in a deteriorated condition.

 

I think it was £22.60 plus VAT. 

 

It gives me peace of mind.

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Did a full de-con and paint correction on the 528i 

 

Topped it off with SiRAMIK SC15 then 12h later with SC-FLEX. 


Also cleaned and dressed the engine bay too. 
 

Now least they exterior looks like a car tgat has only done 23k!!!

 

1EC5CF1A-D93F-4115-869B-21F35F5E26C3.jpeg

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DCA1941E-A1A2-451E-9951-005D0D98C5B2.jpeg

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0D3A3B5A-2C1E-43F7-A843-702F76190896.jpeg

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E2890156-9B13-47D5-BB49-1DA3FB633041.jpeg

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DC19CEA5-5830-4E51-95E1-44568D9B81DE.jpeg

Edited by nick_mcuk

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1 minute ago, 535i Andrew said:

Lovely, what did you use and how on the engine bay please @nick_mcuk?

AutoGlym Super Concentrate TFR in a pump sprayer with hot water to dilute....ran it at about 1:10 mix as i used it on the arches body and door shuts.

 

Pressure washed it all off then used AutoGlym Super Sheen on the wet and rant the car up while I washed it....the heat of the engine then drys the water off and the super sheen drys to the finish you see in the pics :)

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Wasn't planning too. Mine is 7 years old next month and remains dry.

 

I'll be cleaning out the chamber and the scuttles regularly so I reckon it should be o.k. for another 7 years without sealant. Besides I'm crap at working with sealant.:ph34r:

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Using sealant is some sort of dark art I think. If I fitted a new grommet I think I would use a very small bead around the inside edge, then after pushing it in place, run a finger around the outside edge to bond it on. However, I am never happy with the finish I get using it and always try to improve it and make it worse!!!

Edited by nashdm2

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Did a final fill for the gearbox oil after fitting filter and fluid change last week - very satisfying. 
 

Carried out an old skool engine oil change by removing the sump plug (have been using an extractor lately) which was also very satisfying, leaving it to drain until not even a drop came out. I know it doesn’t really make a difference but felt good :) 

 

Replaced damaged bolts and made sure all of the undertrays/bumpers were screwed on. 
 

That’s me carried out all the mechanical jobs I have wanted to do since buying her in August. 
 

Finally, had a good wiggle and shake of all the wheels to check suspension/bushes and a visual of the diff etc. 
 

Being on a 2 post lift is absolutely the way to work on a car - that access to everything is brilliant and makes a massive difference to the speed and ease you can get jobs done. 

Edited by Munzy123

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Oil and filter change today, 10040 miles since the last. Instead of just using the vacuum pump to remove the old oil like I did last time I jacked up the the car on the front right jacking point to get more oil to flow to where the vacuum pump could reach it and sucked out as much as was possible. Then jacked the car up on the centre front jacking point, put some stands under the side front jacking points and crawled underneath to remove the sump plug and then let the car down again to see how much more I could get out. There was close enough to 7 litres just from vacuuming, I didn't measure what drained from the sump plug but from looking at what was in the catch pan I reckon another 250ml or so. I think I've poured 7 litres of fresh oil back in but it's still only just up to the bottom mark on the stick so maybe erring on the side of caution and not quite put the full 7 in. I'll keep an eye on it and top up as required.  Also replaced the broken sump plug cover while I was at it.

 

Still need to find out how to reset the oil service indicator on the idrive. There's still 1500 miles left until the car thinks it's due so not sure I can reset through the secret menu until after that. Perhaps I can use ISTA to do it sooner. Will go and do a bit more research.

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2 hours ago, Cadwell Parker said:

Oil and filter change today, 10040 miles since the last. Instead of just using the vacuum pump to remove the old oil like I did last time I jacked up the the car on the front right jacking point to get more oil to flow to where the vacuum pump could reach it and sucked out as much as was possible. Then jacked the car up on the centre front jacking point, put some stands under the side front jacking points and crawled underneath to remove the sump plug and then let the car down again to see how much more I could get out. There was close enough to 7 litres just from vacuuming, I didn't measure what drained from the sump plug but from looking at what was in the catch pan I reckon another 250ml or so. I think I've poured 7 litres of fresh oil back in but it's still only just up to the bottom mark on the stick so maybe erring on the side of caution and not quite put the full 7 in. I'll keep an eye on it and top up as required.  Also replaced the broken sump plug cover while I was at it.

 

Still need to find out how to reset the oil service indicator on the idrive. There's still 1500 miles left until the car thinks it's due so not sure I can reset through the secret menu until after that. Perhaps I can use ISTA to do it sooner. Will go and do a bit more research.

 

If you can’t reset via the “secret” menu then you definitely can do so via ISTA. I had to reset the brake wear indicator on our F45 using ISTA as there were still too many miles remaining according to the iDrive to use the secret menu. 

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14 hours ago, Matthew Ashton said:

If you can’t reset via the “secret” menu then you definitely can do so via ISTA

 

Thanks Matthew. I managed to do it via the dashboard without needing to get in to the 'secret' menu but I'll bear ISTA in mind for the future. The car now says it needs its next oil service in 22000 miles. I think 10000 will be quite enough. Will have a look in the secret menu later to see if it's possible to change the defult distance to something more engine friendly.

 

Happy New Year to all on the forum.

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3 hours ago, Cadwell Parker said:

 

Thanks Matthew. I managed to do it via the dashboard without needing to get in to the 'secret' menu but I'll bear ISTA in mind for the future. The car now says it needs its next oil service in 22000 miles. I think 10000 will be quite enough. Will have a look in the secret menu later to see if it's possible to change the defult distance to something more engine friendly.

 

Happy New Year to all on the forum.

Secret Menu, ISTA, Resetting via the dashboard...what is this sorcery you talk of? :D 

 

Please advise a Nooooobie!

 

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3 hours ago, nick_mcuk said:

Secret Menu, ISTA, Resetting via the dashboard...what is this sorcery you talk of? :D 

 

Please advise a Nooooobie!

 

The hidden menu is displayed on the instrument cluster and is accessed via the trip reset button  You can view actual battery voltage and water temperature here. Also can be used to reset brake wear indicator after changing pads and sensor. 

 

1. With the ignition on, hold down the odometer reset button for a few seconds, it’ll seem to reset trip but then put back the original value. 
2. Release the odometer reset button, and you should see a menu of 4 items on the dashboard. From here on, use the odo-reset button to advance to the next entry using a short press, and to select the option by a long press.
3. Choose the ”Unlock” option, which will take you to a passkey screen. Your passkey is the sum of the last 5 digits of your VIN - Increment this two-digit number until you get to your sum and with the long press of the odo button, select it.
4. Then you will see a list of the extended menu. Short press to advance through the options. 
 

Some service options can be reset via the “vehicle status” in the iDrive. 

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1 hour ago, Matthew Ashton said:

The hidden menu is displayed on the instrument cluster and is accessed via the trip reset button  You can view actual battery voltage and water temperature here. Also can be used to reset brake wear indicator after changing pads and sensor. 

 

1. With the ignition on, hold down the odometer reset button for a few seconds, it’ll seem to reset trip but then put back the original value. 
2. Release the odometer reset button, and you should see a menu of 4 items on the dashboard. From here on, use the odo-reset button to advance to the next entry using a short press, and to select the option by a long press.
3. Choose the ”Unlock” option, which will take you to a passkey screen. Your passkey is the sum of the last 5 digits of your VIN - Increment this two-digit number until you get to your sum and with the long press of the odo button, select it.
4. Then you will see a list of the extended menu. Short press to advance through the options. 
 

Some service options can be reset via the “vehicle status” in the iDrive. 

Oh nice thanks for taking the time to explain it!

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