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F10 530d

What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

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Changed the engine oil + filter with Castrol Edge 0w30 and installed a new Varta G14 AGM battery as the original one was struggling to hold charge. 

 

Also noticed the rear drivers side spring has snapped at the bottom so will need to get that booked in.

 

Then it needs a good wash and I might even stick a private reg on.

 

 

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Flushed the brake fluid and cleaned out the OSF arch.

 

No pictures of the brake fluid change but it was really easy with a pressure bleeder. I did the DSC pump thing for the rears but forgot the fronts. Doh. Brakes feel great though so going to leave it. Old fluid was pretty cloudy, presented below through the medium of alcohol bottles. 330ml of new fluid left over so I only flushed 670ml odd, oh well. Always next time.

 

Only hard thing was figuring out the final master cylinder level as I can't see any markings. No errors no worries.

 

 

20190615_181637.jpg

 

1560624281375-241720073.jpg

Edited by bmwmike

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Well I planned to undertake very simple mods like changing the interior lights to LED’s along with front indicators to be replaced with LED ones... where do I start!

 

Firstly it’s obvious now that F10’s do have various combinations of bulbs, for example in my car:

 

Sun Visor - 2x mini bulbs each side

Footwell - LED circuit boards (dim yellow)

Puddle - normal T10 bulbs

Front/Rear Map reading - normal T10

Reverse light - H21W

 

I ordered a bunch of T10’s as that’s what one YouTube video showed.

 

Secondly the front and rear map reading section are so hard to pry off I gave up as do not want to break anything after only a month of ownership, to make things worse I have seen two videos showing two different approaches of how to take off with clips being shown in different location!

 

Thirdly who would have thought that just to gain access to the front light housing would involve going through the wheel arch, when I managed that to turn the actual cap was so hard I gave up.

 

To get better grip looks like the wheel needs to come off.

 

Why did BMW design it so damn complicated!

 

Safe to say mission was aborted with bulbs just sitting around!

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On ‎15‎/‎06‎/‎2019 at 19:30, bmwmike said:

Flushed the brake fluid and cleaned out the OSF arch.

 

No pictures of the brake fluid change but it was really easy with a pressure bleeder. I did the DSC pump thing for the rears but forgot the fronts.

 

 

Hi Mike, sorry a few questions....

 

What pressure bleeder did you use, Gunson easy bleed or similar? 

 

Interested to know what you mean by DSC pump thing, is that putting the car into brake bleeding mode that operates the ABS pump to allow the fluid in the pump to be expelled, presumably via ISTA or other diagnostic tool?

 

Thanks

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5 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

Hi Mike, sorry a few questions....

 

What pressure bleeder did you use, Gunson easy bleed or similar? 

 

Interested to know what you mean by DSC pump thing, is that putting the car into brake bleeding mode that operates the ABS pump to allow the fluid in the pump to be expelled, presumably via ISTA or other diagnostic tool?

 

Thanks

 

Hey Andrew

 

DSC pump thing - I used ISTA to activate the DSC motor, and it runs for six seconds. I only did that when opening the back nipples.  Stupidly left my ctek connected which showed a red error light when the DSC motor ran, must have overloaded it. Thought I'd fried it but seems ok.

 

I used a sealey VS820 at 20 psi.

 

I wouldn't do the DSC thing again as I'm not sure I did the right thing anyway.  Besides the DSC pump is open normally so a pressure bleed should shove new fluid through it.  

 

 

 

 

 

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Today I removed my Bluespark Pro + Boost Control unit and replaced it with a DTUK Crd3+ tuning box and a DTUK pedal box. Totally transforms the car, especially the pedal box. 

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I decided to take another go at replacing the front indicators, I learnt that the cap only requires roughly a 45 degree turn and you then just pull it out.

 

Anyway as the video clip shows the LED markers do make a difference and no errors thus far but will keep an eye on it.

 

I was only able to replace the puddle lights as just too scared of yanking off the dome light housing even though I got the panel removal tools for it.

 

I know not for everyone but the front puddle lights got the M Sport projection lights and the rears just kept plain LED’s.

 

Finally other than hooking up to BimmerCode to see what level of brightness the ambient LED strips are, looking at how they are currently look like they faulty as the whole strip is not illuminated, however checking all the other they are the same, so waiting to get it checked via coding.

0A3246C7-2171-4AD6-A49C-2E95228177B0.jpeg

92A73154-5D5D-414A-AC4C-BD9025DE2D3E.jpeg

Edited by The Situation

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14 hours ago, The Situation said:

 

0A3246C7-2171-4AD6-A49C-2E95228177B0.jpeg

 

I always have these. They're a silly, blinged up load of nonsense and I love them. They rarely last longer than about a year before the colours fade but they're cheap as chips and easy to replace.

 

 

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1 hour ago, bmwmike said:

41.9mpg

 

:shock:

 

Not bad for a 3.0 petrol. 

 

What is that language you speak in? :D

 

I'm experimenting on this tank full to drive a bit easier, so far after 60 miles its at 28.5 up over 2mpg better than long term average.

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2 minutes ago, Matthew Ashton said:

I managed to get the worse consumption on a 7 mile drive on Thursday... 8 mpg! :D

 

:shock:

 

Just to confirm, 8, as in eight mpg? Sure you didn't miss a digit in front of the 8? :D

 

What were you doing, driving with the handbrake on? Driving up a steep hill?

 

I even got better than that towing a caravan with my E60, 21mpg, my worst ever mpg.

 

Lol.

 

But I bet you enjoyed those 7 miles in your machine. And that's what it's all about.

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1 hour ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

:shock:

 

Just to confirm, 8, as in eight mpg? Sure you didn't miss a digit in front of the 8? :D

 

What were you doing, driving with the handbrake on? Driving up a steep hill?

 

I even got better than that towing a caravan with my E60, 21mpg, my worst ever mpg.

 

Lol.

 

But I bet you enjoyed those 7 miles in your machine. And that's what it's all about.

 

It was in start stop traffic back home after some warranty repair work at BMW. I could hear the pennies being drained from my wallet :rolleyes:

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1 hour ago, Matthew Ashton said:

 

I could hear the pennies being drained from my wallet :rolleyes:

 

Only pennies?  That sounds more like £20 notes falling out!

 

Hope the warranty work was nothing serious?

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20 hours ago, The Situation said:

I decided to take another go at replacing the front indicators, I learnt that the cap only requires roughly a 45 degree turn and you then just pull it out.

 

Anyway as the video clip shows the LED markers do make a difference and no errors thus far but will keep an eye on it.

 

I was only able to replace the puddle lights as just too scared of yanking off the dome light housing even though I got the panel removal tools for it.

 

I know not for everyone but the front puddle lights got the M Sport projection lights and the rears just kept plain LED’s.

 

Finally other than hooking up to BimmerCode to see what level of brightness the ambient LED strips are, looking at how they are currently look like they faulty as the whole strip is not illuminated, however checking all the other they are the same, so waiting to get it checked via coding.

 

26B4390E-4F02-4759-B32A-88806D951EDC.MOV

0A3246C7-2171-4AD6-A49C-2E95228177B0.jpeg

92A73154-5D5D-414A-AC4C-BD9025DE2D3E.jpeg

Don't bother with the coding the comfort lighting. I've coded mine and it made no difference at all. This is one area where BMW failed, the optic strips just don't pass the LED light well enough. 

 

If you want them brighter, you will have to swap the original solution for LED strips. I've purchased a set and in the process of fitting them. The results are night and day and I'm very pleased with the outcome. 

Edited by bigshout

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20 hours ago, bigshout said:

Don't bother with the coding the comfort lighting. I've coded mine and it made no difference at all. This is one area where BMW failed, the optic strips just don't pass the LED light well enough. 

 

If you want them brighter, you will have to swap the original solution for LED strips. I've purchased a set and in the process of fitting them. The results are night and day and I'm very pleased with the outcome. 

 

Heres the silly thing with these strips if you look at the below pic of the LED’s used inside the door compartments, they all light up compared to the ones I shown in previous post mind you they also still a bit dim.

 

Would be interested is seeing pics of yours along with how you fitted them???

 

AA3C2DDC-83FC-49E0-A294-59DFA2F13D6D.jpeg

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Yesterday I tackled the yellow grommet 13 months after doing it the first time.

 

Evidence of a tide mark, yellow sandy type dust but that may just be to the same profile as the structural section on the bulkhead.

 

image.jpg

 

And some debris left in the plenum chamber.

 

image.jpg

 

Compare with pics from May 2018.

 

DSCN3871.jpg

 

and

 

DSCN3864.jpg

 

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Thats interesting Andrew. In between the first and the second clean, did you change the grommet or clean the tide mark? ie, is this a new tide mark or just the old one?

 

Am I correct in thinking your car is stored outside when not in use?

 

The first person to do it twice I think, but, just goes to show what 13 months will do.

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2 hours ago, nashdm2 said:

Thats interesting Andrew. In between the first and the second clean, did you change the grommet or clean the tide mark? ie, is this a new tide mark or just the old one?

 

 

Thanks, the cover was spotless when it went back on in May 2018 so the tide mark on the cover is new.  I couldn't get the yellow grommet that clean, but it was free of debris etc.  So there is staining from a total of 6.5 years nearly on the yellow grommet.  I think the yellow grommet is deteriorating slightly at its lower edge when I looked closely between photos I took on Sunday and ones from May 2018. I will buy a new one to replace in the next 12 months or so.

 

Pic below is the cleaned grommet from May 2018

 

DSCN3881.jpg

 

Pic below is cleaned up grommet from July 2018

 

IMG_4861.jpg

 

In the intervening year between the two pics above,  I did clean out the nearside scuttle that drain in the wheel arch which is connected to the chamber above by means of the square hole just visible above the weld line between the chassis leg and the bulkhead.  This cleaning out should help get rid of any water sloshing around between the plenum created in front of the yellow grommet and the nearside scuttle.

 

Thread for reference.

 

 

I 'll post another thread showing how they are linked as I suspect if you have a blocked scuttle drain like mine was in the thread above, water that can't escape down to the wheel arch will then slosh about to the plenum in front of the yellow grommet.  I'm trying to figure out if there is a sump effect in the scuttle, so water may ste lower in the scuttle than the plenum in front of the yellow grommet but so far the heater blower unit blocks the way and short of removing it just to see what goes on....

 

2 hours ago, nashdm2 said:

Am I correct in thinking your car is stored outside when not in use?

 

Yes, the only car in my garage is a Little Tikes Cozy Coupe, beside, this wide boy F10 needs greasing to get thru my garage doors when I squeezed it in to do the front brakes.

 

2 hours ago, nashdm2 said:

The first person to do it twice I think, but, just goes to show what 13 months will do.

 

I believe so and I was wanting to do it a few weeks ago but the lurgy and family holiday spoiled that avenue of pleasure.

 

One thing I would say is that the cover proved initially tricky to line up, as I could feel it just wasn't right.  Trick is to install it vertically first into the slot for it in the rubber grommet around the three heater pipes, once it sits in this grommet its a piece of cake to line up and all four bolts went back in easily.  

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Do you suffer with a operation noise with these lights at all? I could hear an unpleasant noise when you are in the car with the engine off. 

 

May friend let me try his and this is what put me off them, could be the ones he had off Amazon i guess but the standard lights do no make the same noise.

 

On 21/06/2019 at 21:48, The Situation said:

I decided to take another go at replacing the front indicators, I learnt that the cap only requires roughly a 45 degree turn and you then just pull it out.

 

Anyway as the video clip shows the LED markers do make a difference and no errors thus far but will keep an eye on it.

 

I was only able to replace the puddle lights as just too scared of yanking off the dome light housing even though I got the panel removal tools for it.

 

I know not for everyone but the front puddle lights got the M Sport projection lights and the rears just kept plain LED’s.

 

Finally other than hooking up to BimmerCode to see what level of brightness the ambient LED strips are, looking at how they are currently look like they faulty as the whole strip is not illuminated, however checking all the other they are the same, so waiting to get it checked via coding.

 

26B4390E-4F02-4759-B32A-88806D951EDC.MOV

0A3246C7-2171-4AD6-A49C-2E95228177B0.jpeg

 

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7 hours ago, roundy said:

Do you suffer with a operation noise with these lights at all? I could hear an unpleasant noise when you are in the car with the engine off. 

 

May friend let me try his and this is what put me off them, could be the ones he had off Amazon i guess but the standard lights do no make the same noise.

 

 

 

No noise that I’ve come across to date at all.

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I'll try to record mine, almost like a buzzing sound before the engine is started. 

 

Where did you purchase the ones you have out of interest? 

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