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What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

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Mated my new spare key to the car this morning. The process (as explained to me by the BMW parts guy) was as follows:

  • Unlock the car with the old key
  • Sit in the car, and hold the new key against the key symbol on the steering column (under the wiper stalk) for 10 seconds
  • Start the car

 

And it worked! The new key now locks/unlocks the car, and starts it too.

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6 hours ago, BFleming said:

Mated my new spare key to the car this morning. The process (as explained to me by the BMW parts guy) was as follows:

  • Unlock the car with the old key
  • Sit in the car, and hold the new key against the key symbol on the steering column (under the wiper stalk) for 10 seconds
  • Start the car

 

And it worked! The new key now locks/unlocks the car, and starts it too.

 

Thanks that's good to know.

 

If you don't mind how much was a new key from BMW?

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3 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

If you don't mind how much was a new key from BMW?

Wait until you've got a mouthful of tea before reading this...

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£295. Two hundred and ninety five quid. I don't have comfort opening/closing, that's just a regular F11 key with the dual boot release buttons.

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So this:

 

On 05/01/2019 at 10:07, bmwmike said:

 

Reason I had the TC off.. I swear the car drives more smoothly with less rock side to side (hard to explain - really depends on road surface), though the TC light itself is rarely on, so have been experimenting. I think someone else on here mentioned the same a year or so ago. I am not sure why the ride would be smoother as I don't have VDC but I wonder if the tyres are the issue, so will change them asap. If anyone's got any ideas on this I'd love to know.

 

 

...was actually a broken OSR spring. Explains the odd handling but not why it improved the TC off. The car now drives how it did when I had TC off, with it on. I guess the TC intervening was being amplified by the borked spring. 

 

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1 hour ago, BFleming said:

Wait until you've got a mouthful of tea before reading this...

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£295. Two hundred and ninety five quid. I don't have comfort opening/closing, that's just a regular F11 key with the dual boot release buttons.

 

For foxs sake!

 

Better not loose one of mine....

 

40 minutes ago, bmwmike said:

So this:

 

 

...was actually a broken OSR spring. Explains the odd handling but not why it improved the TC off. The car now drives how it did when I had TC off, with it on. I guess the TC intervening was being amplified by the borked spring. 

 

 

You heard an almighty bang just last week? When a rear spring broke on my Senator, it was like a gun going off. Scared the brown stuff out of me.

 

The bang you heard was almost certainly it breaking I would have thought. 

 

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37 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

You heard an almighty bang just last week? When a rear spring broke on my Senator, it was like a gun going off. Scared the brown stuff out of me.

 

The bang you heard was almost certainly it breaking I would have thought. 

 

 

Yeah, doesn't make sense does it. The spring was very rusty at the end but the break was clean, so it had just happened.  Cant think how else the spring would be affected, its all or nothing. So on reflection - Dunno. Placebo maybe. Or maybe when bmw did my shocks they did something wrong and I put it right. Or placebo. More testing required!

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If the break was clean then it's certain it broke in the bang you heard.

 

These will break under fatigue loading. Corrosion will be present which will reduce the springs cross sectional area and make it slightly softer but I doubt this is really noticeable.  This corrosion sets up a fatigue stress point on the surface (which is now no longer smooth and the stresses get concentrated around the defect ) which after one too many springing cycles/potholes will just snap from fatigue. Same way a coke can ring pull will snap off around the rivet head if you continue to flex it. It's only designed for a single operation and the rivet hole is a stress inducer. 

 

I use to design out fatigue details on metallic railway bridges back in my youth............miss those care free days. 

 

Yeah get out in it and test it. I'm still testing out my new brakes. So much better when the car works as it should. 

 

Anyway where is the how to do DIY write up then?

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1 hour ago, BFleming said:

Wait until you've got a mouthful of tea before reading this...

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£295. Two hundred and ninety five quid. I don't have comfort opening/closing, that's just a regular F11 key with the dual boot release buttons.

Excuse me for posting this on the F series thread, but i thought this may help someone in the future... I had to order a spare for my G30 with comfort access after my daughter binned mine. I usually use the display key, so luckily it wasn't that one. Standard key - £494 including coding at the dealer!!!. I waited a while and in the meantime took out separate key insurance for £27 per year. No excess applies. I claimed for lost keys and after a three day waiting period I was given the go ahead to replace the key. Invoice emailed over to them and reimbursed within a week. 

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44 minutes ago, alandavidhenry said:

Guess what's happening today......
 

I'd be interested to hear about the results / your experiences. I had mine done last year, and it's great that it's now all done via the ODB port, leaving the sealed ECU where it is. No more of that risky drilling or splitting (and often breaking) the ECU.

My 525d was 218bhp, so it's now a little more :ph34r:

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Just driven it back. Lots more power throughout the entire of the engines speed range. It was immediately noticeable. Pulls effortlessly on the motorway and from lower speeds it now pushes me back in the seat.

The journey back was 75 miles of a mixture of M4 motorway and A and B roads. I was obviously keen to try out the new power increase and wasn't hanging around, but still averaged 42 mpg. Very impressed!

Avon Tuning were very professional. Dropped the car off at 8.30 and picked it up at 14:00. They gave me a Polo GTi to drive around in while I waited, just had to replace the fuel I used.

They also pointed out that the air filter needs changing and a boost pipe is leaking. I'll get those sorted as soon as I can.

Also received a 10% discount for being a member of this forum.7ca87336e9f7b1c0a9d5da684acd9da7.jpg

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

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Completed install of dashcam, installed new reversing camera monitor and decided how and where to mount the camera and let the cable into the boot. Next problem is finding a route from boot lid through hatchback lid to front of car!

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On 21/02/2019 at 17:16, bluelights21 said:

 installed new reversing camera monitor and decided how and where to mount the camera and let the cable into the boot. Next problem is finding a route from boot lid through hatchback lid to front of car!

 

Any pics? You can't say interesting things like that without pics. :D

 

You will have folding seats which will make life easier.  I routed towbar wiring in an F10 under the rear bench seat (pulls up and out) from the boot and then under the rear offside and then the front offside footwell sill trim pieces to the modules in the drivers footwell. 

 

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No pics yet, having a little trouble getting work done as my wife's alzheimer's stops me doing long periods of working on the car, I photographed the dashcam install and will do reversing camera as well, after that is install of led replacement head lamps.

Edited by bluelights21

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2 hours ago, bluelights21 said:

No pics yet, having a little trouble getting work done as my wife's alzheimer's stops me doing long periods of working on the car, I photographed the dashcam install and will do reversing camera as well, after that is install of led replacement head lamps.

Sorry to hear that; tough station for sure, and I hope you're managing ok.

On the dashcam & reversing cam be mindful of your DAB reception afterwards; if it's noticeably worse than before it'll be one of those thing. If you don;t have DAB... carry on!

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51 minutes ago, bluelights21 said:

Bought a nice trolly Jack and a pair of axle stands, just bought the adapter from Ebay. As soon as that lot has arrived, its wheels off for a deep clean.

 

If i could be so bold as to recomend these for use with your new trolley jack 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-BMW-Jacking-Adapters-FREE-1st-Class-Delivery-included/273050605907?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

And these for your axle stands 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Custom-Made-Rubber-BMW-1-3-5-series-Adapters-for-your-Halfords-Axle-Stands-/273148625937?hash=item3f98ed4411

 

 

And this stuff for cleaning your alloys.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BILT-HAMBER-AUTO-WHEEL-ALLOY-CAR-WHEEL-CLEANER-1-LITRE-NON-ACIDIC-IRON-X-REMOVER-/113654560521?hash=item1a7656f709

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13 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

Thanks for the info, I have it all except the axle stand pads, for some reans I didn't think of those.

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23 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

If i could be so bold as to recomend these for use with your new trolley jack 

 

Somebody gave me a low profile trolley jack but the adapter you have shown makes the jack just too high to use on my F11. It's really annoying and I always end up having to use the crap jack supplied with my spacesaver spare to change my wheels all for the sake of half an inch.

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