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What did you do to your E60/61 today?

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Cursed the under body plastics and how they hide the brake pipes from the MOT inspection, and thanked my lucky stars that this gave up the ghost outside my house and not on the planned journey to Essex.

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Ho hum...

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Yuk, where on the E61 is that, rear lines above the axle?
Did you loose full braking or is there some redundancy built into the fluid circuits, split front/rear?

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What caused those brake lines to corrode like that?  While you're under there, inspect your ground straps as well.  

Edited by MR E9

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21 hours ago, DarkHorse said:

Yuk, where on the E61 is that, rear lines above the axle?
Did you loose full braking or is there some redundancy built into the fluid circuits, split front/rear?

The pipes are along the left hand sill at the very back of the rear passenger foot well / just in front of the left side fuel tank, about a foot behind the factory joins.

On Thursday morning when it happened there was still some braking effect, by the time I came to move it the next day there was no braking at all, I suspect that there is some redundancy until the fluid level falls and allows air into the master cylinder.

Even moving the car just a few yards with a cold engine  and auto box was difficult the hand brake could barely overcome the cars' desire to move forward.

I don't remember seeing this in any of the 'looking to buy a E6X what to watch out for ?'  threads but it should be.

 

 

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19 hours ago, Ollie Campbell said:

Ouch. This is on my ever growing to do list...not looking forward to it.

Are you going to make your own or buy them from somewhere?

I think that there is sufficient good pipe along the side of the fuel tank to splice in male unions though doing the flare on the old steel pipe was difficult due to limited space. I have made both the steel flares and one of the replacement runs but managed to strip the threads in my brake pipe tool, hopefully the new tool will be here this morning and I can do the other line.

I will update after bleeding the brakes either this evening of tomorrow.

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Odd how it looks too short in the picture, it fits the car and picks up on all the stock clips because I trial fitted before cutting to length and making the last flare.

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Good work, but why not just make them in copper? 
Another potential scary issue to check - Hopefully you got a low fluid warning??

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11 hours ago, v8shinprint said:

Good work, but why not just make them in copper? 
Another potential scary issue to check - Hopefully you got a low fluid warning??

 

Kunifer might be more difficult to flare than copper but I think it looks nicer and I am probably the only one that will see them until it makes it's final journey to the great car park in the sky. :)

Anyhow, I made the second like this morning and spent the afternoon pressure bleeding the system which showed up a slight seepage at a couple of the Kunifer flares but non at the steel flares. A test drive with some hard braking showed up one more seeping flare which was nipped up, test drive repeated and all is good.

Tomorrow I need to do oil and filter which are well overdue time wise if not yet due on the condition based iDrive display. I also need to get a new nipple and cap for one of the front callipers as it has lost its cap and has corroded internally, it could be bled under pressure by turning it almost all the way out which would have been impossible if I was suction bleeding.

Refitting the panels I replaced a lot of corroded and some missing 9mm head screws, on Saturday I discovered that the lower edge of my rear bumper is held on with cable ties, new C clips have been ordered hopefully I'll get the alignment a bit better, the lower edge is currently about 10mm too far out.

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18 hours ago, v8shinprint said:

Good work, but why not just make them in copper? 
Another potential scary issue to check - Hopefully you got a low fluid warning??

If you look at a mill test report for copper, it is not pressure rated for hydraulic brakes.  It is easier, but not safe and not D O T approved. 

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3 stage compound and I had a go with Sonax CC36 ceramic coating this week. Basecoat needs 1 hour to cure and once the gloss coat is on it's ready to get wet. Ideal for a ceramic job with no shelter.

 

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9 hours ago, dirtydirtydiesel said:

Nice to see your finally getting to spend some time on your own motor :)

It about killed me, trying to do this between other jobs and having to do it for a trip to Oxford Saturday as I didn't want to drive it with nothing on the paint...

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Minor up date on my brake lines, I have done about five hundred miles over the last week and my new nipple and dust cap had been delivered. So I set about changing the nipple and re bleeding the brakes as I think there was still a bit of air in the ABS, as the car was up in the air I pulled the plastic panel that hide my repair and it was as dry as a very dry thing so all is good there.

Today I set about finding out why both my remote fobs were not working, the car came with a stack of history including repair to the cables in the hatch hinge so I was fearing a wet or corroded diversity antenna. Turns out the +12V to the antenna was missing, fuse was good so I pulled out the cables from the hinge, for a professional repair I was not impressed. The red and white cable had +12V at the first heat shrinked solder joint  but not at the second one yes the replacement cable had broke, ho hum relatively easy fix and both my remote fobs now work at about 10M which is better than they have in the last two and a half years I have owned the car.

Easy cheep fix, not the replacement diversity antenna I had feared, plus I spend the day in the sun tinkering with the car.

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new here. recently purchased a 2007 automatic bmw e61. love the car!! had some work done on there full servcie pulley and belt and pads and disck all around. changed the number plate lights yesterday made a big difference! want to change the car add some m sport bumpers front and back what are peoples thoughts? i want to maybe get some new wheels too. 663263980_bmwback.jpg.a01f3c9a875b230aae890dce10b43274.jpg

bmw side.jpg

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2 glow plugs were showing as faulty, I had a pack for another job that's on hold so an hour later all 6 swapped and working!

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Admired how clean it was after BMW gave it a free wash and blacked the tyre walls.

I did have to take it in for the battery cable re call which after inspection was not needed and it did give them an opportunity to give it a visual inspection. AKA make a list of works needed totalling thousands of pounds. :)

Like that was going to happen, the video was nice to watch though and I suppose it gives me a few things to at least keep an eye on.

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4 hours ago, Keith_H said:

Admired how clean it was after BMW gave it a free wash and blacked the tyre walls.

I did have to take it in for the battery cable re call which after inspection was not needed and it did give them an opportunity to give it a visual inspection. AKA make a list of works needed totalling thousands of pounds. :)

Like that was going to happen, the video was nice to watch though and I suppose it gives me a few things to at least keep an eye on.

I'm so not happy about taking my old girl in, she's rough & ready on the outside due to careless previous owners  :unsure: & a lack of cash & time on mine.

But she runs spot on.

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14 minutes ago, dirtydirtydiesel said:

I'm so not happy about taking my old girl in, she's rough & ready on the outside due to careless previous owners  :unsure: & a lack of cash & time on mine.

But she runs spot on.

Don't let it bother you, my E61 has 170,000 miles on it and a deepish scratch all the way from the front bumper across both doors and on to the rear arch ( I was gutted when that happened) oh and the windows are rather dark. The service advisers and mechanic that did the video were totally fine with it though they had it parked right  in front  of Mini showroom when I collected not under the M sport branding.

If they give attitude remind them that you are there because BMW have been obliged to invite you and that they (BMW) are paying for it not the service centre.

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Binned off the terrible 2017 dated run flats that were fitted when I picked up the car, huge amounts of tread on them but they were rock solid. 

Replaced with 4 new Goodyear Eagle F1 AYS 5, so much better. 

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MOT today, this is the fourth one I've done since buying the car in 2017, and the fourth straight pass, not bad for a 17 year old car. Not even any advisories today as I sorted the drop link earlier this year. Despite the high pass rate my car does seem slightly cursed though, last year the air bag light came on while driving to the MOT (thank god for Carly) and today the coolant level warning came on while driving there, the first time I've ever seen that warning in this car! It needed a pint of coolant/water mix when I got it home, to be honest I don't think I've checked the level for over a year as it's never used a drop in the previous three years so will have to investigate a possible small leak.

Edited by edd_jedi

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On 19/10/2021 at 15:53, Keith_H said:

Admired how clean it was after BMW gave it a free wash and blacked the tyre walls.

I did have to take it in for the battery cable re call which after inspection was not needed and it did give them an opportunity to give it a visual inspection. AKA make a list of works needed totalling thousands of pounds. :)

Like that was going to happen, the video was nice to watch though and I suppose it gives me a few things to at least keep an eye on.


Did they take a video of them inspecting the cable? And/or a video of an inspection of the whole car? Did they give you a print out of all the things that are 'needed to be done' according to their report? How detailed was the report? And did you have to ask for this inspection or did they do it without being asked to? Also did you request the wash and could you opt not to have it? 
Sorry for all the questions, I'm probably worse than your missus with all them questions :lol: I knew about the recall for 2+ years and go a letter yesterday with big red letters on it asking me to bring it in, so will book it in just to get them off my back and for the peace of mind. Hence, I'm asking about all the details of your experience before I take mine in. Thank you in advance if you decide to answer all my questions:lol: Much appreciated!

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On 9/5/2021 at 3:29 PM, GoNz0 said:

To be fair, it isn't a bad job to do, if you don't have a hud windscreen you will get a slight ghost image but it still looks good enough imo

You also need a new RLS as it's got to be the one for the hud or it will be stuck on full dim all the time as my mate found out after telling me he had everything he needed for me to fit it...

Switch is plug and play but needs two wires in the plug.

 

 

On 10/21/2021 at 12:51 PM, edd_jedi said:

MOT today, this is the fourth one I've done since buying the car in 2017, and the fourth straight pass, not bad for a 17 year old car. Not even any advisories today as I sorted the drop link earlier this year. Despite the high pass rate my car does seem slightly cursed though, last year the air bag light came on while driving to the MOT (thank god for Carly) and today the coolant level warning came on while driving there, the first time I've ever seen that warning in this car! It needed a pint of coolant/water mix when I got it home, to be honest I don't think I've checked the level for over a year as it's never used a drop in the previous three years so will have to investigate a possible small leak.

Is your car TT or NA, diesel or gas?

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The ball joint boots were split on both of the rear guide arms so I figured may as well do upper and lower arms on both sides. Wasn't too bad, the bolt for the passenger side little guide arm had seized in the bush and subframe due to rust and galvanic corrosion but came free in the end (explains the poor rear tracking result last time I had it done), also managed to snap the shaft on the driver side guide arm ball joint but that just made quicker work of getting it off haha. Didn't realise the guide arms were for toe adjustment so marked them with a paint pen before taking off, also didn't realise there was an eccentric washer on the end facing the front of the car and almost put it all back together without them! Put some copper grease on both the toe adjustment bolts to ensure they don't seize up again...

 

Torque settings for small guide arm is 65Nm for the ball joint and 65Nm for the bush.

 

Torque settings for the long bent arm is 165Nm for the ball joint and 100Nm for the bush.

 

Jacked up the wheels to ride height before anything was torqued up of course but was quite a struggle to get torque wrench in there so all done with spanners by feel, a mixture of tight, pretty tight and bloody tight.

 

Went for a test drive and the back end definitely feels tighter and more controlled, no knocks or bangs and tracking seems fine so good result, think it took me about 3 hours without lunch break.

Edited by max535

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On 10/22/2021 at 1:55 PM, baku911 said:


Did they take a video of them inspecting the cable? And/or a video of an inspection of the whole car? Did they give you a print out of all the things that are 'needed to be done' according to their report? How detailed was the report? And did you have to ask for this inspection or did they do it without being asked to? Also did you request the wash and could you opt not to have it? 
Sorry for all the questions, I'm probably worse than your missus with all them questions :lol: I knew about the recall for 2+ years and go a letter yesterday with big red letters on it asking me to bring it in, so will book it in just to get them off my back and for the peace of mind. Hence, I'm asking about all the details of your experience before I take mine in. Thank you in advance if you decide to answer all my questions:lol: Much appreciated!

TBH I have know about the recall for over a year and knew the symptoms, poor starting, not charging etc. so I have been aware of it and had a look myself, it came as no surprise that my car was checked and found to be ok.

In order:

No they did not video the cable or its inspection. The video was of the underside of the car, think the Car Wizard talking to Hoovie on Youtube :) It covered tyre's brakes disc and pad thickness, suspension, exhaust condition, engine and gearbox oil leeks, brake pipe condition (ironic that one!!! ) and probably more that I forget.

Yes detailed report, three sides of A4 with item traffic light for condition, description of any work required and a cost. Mine is mostly green with a few oranges, no reds.

I was made aware of the inspection when I booked in the car for recall inspection, BMW's web site was broken when I visited not able to identify a service centre near me from my post code.

No they did not ask to wash the car but I expected they would wash it TBH it was filthy as it had not been washed since before my trip to Wales and needed doing, the interior was spot less as I had done the whole hoover, hide cleaning, interior glass and trim clean at the weekend. Call me odd, I tend to keep the inside much cleaner than the outside perhaps because it is parked on street and used in London traffic so there in no point getting too precious about the paint work.

 

If you care for the exterior as much as I care for the interior perhaps best to tell them not to wash your car.

 

Basically they wanted to change a head light, broken clips on back so lets in water, I did not know you could still get pre LCI active headlights (£1200)

Steering fluid cap (£23)

Rear shocks, one is a bit damp and has been commented on by MOT tester for a couple of years but not this year (£900)

And they did not like my repair to the rear brake lines, can't remember the price on that one.

 

I think that is about it.

You are wrong, the wife takes very little interest in my cars, at the moment her concentration is on me buying her a four door A3 'in a nice colour' Ho Hum...

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