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What did you do to your E60/61 today?

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I disconnected the plug from the compressor and also the unit with the red and blue feeds to the air springs. 

The use a 10mm spanner to loosen the red and blue pies from there and let the air bleed out. 

With the spring pressurised we couldn't see or feel any play even with a tyre lever.

Once the pressure was released it was more obvious as you could move it all a lot easier. 

We also disconnected the shocker while propping the wishbone with a big stick on a trolley jack so we could gently let it drop to it's lower extremety.

Once the work was done I tightened the pipes, reconnected the plugs and started the engine. The arse end slowly came back to normal and job's a good 'un. 

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24 minutes ago, Syemondo said:

I disconnected the plug from the compressor and also the unit with the red and blue feeds to the air springs. 

The use a 10mm spanner to loosen the red and blue pies from there and let the air bleed out. 

With the spring pressurised we couldn't see or feel any play even with a tyre lever.

Once the pressure was released it was more obvious as you could move it all a lot easier. 

We also disconnected the shocker while propping the wishbone with a big stick on a trolley jack so we could gently let it drop to it's lower extremety.

Once the work was done I tightened the pipes, reconnected the plugs and started the engine. The arse end slowly came back to normal and job's a good 'un. 

 

cheers. Sounds easy enough to do, will give it a go at the weekend and see what needs replacing. 

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If you lower the car to roughly the correct height but keep the weight on the jacks it is kinder to the air springs. Don't lower to the exact right height though or the car won't realise it needs to inflate the bags. 

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3 hours ago, dj1233 said:

 

Regarding disconnecting the air springs. Did you simply remove the air line from the units? I need to check my rear suspension joints and not sure of the best way to deflate the bags without risk to damaging any components. 

ISTA or INPA will let you deflate the bags

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It's also quite easy to disconnect the rear suspension level sensors from the suspension arms, they just pop off and pop back on again. You just need to put both in the same position for the air suspension to activate,. E.g. Both low or both high. 

Mark

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Technically it was last night but replaced the water pump and thermostat. A job the looks very simple before you start but turns into a long drawn out process that I’ll not be rushing to do again.

Next up, mot prep :-( already spotted that the rear brake lines needed replacing.

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4 wheel alignment now done for £35 at my local tyre place. 

They know me well down there and the chap is very meticulous. 

Motorways are back to being a pleasure, nicely planted and straight as a dye. 

214,000 miles and counting. 

I think the powerflex subframe bush inserts have accelerated the demise of the ball joints as they reduce the flexibility of the subframe bushes so transfer stresses to other suspension components. 

They are great when you tow though. 

I'll probably be changing more rear suspension components sooner rather than later but I may fit a full rear kit which is available for around £200.

 

 

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So, 

     After deciding to keep car for at least a couple more years and stressing about the auto box not being serviced to my knowledge had this done at Automatic Transmissions Preston today on recommendation of members here.

 

     All seemed to go straight forward , no evidence of leaks fluid “alright really” considering it was confirmed first attention box has received since manufacture as original pan with date stamp. All seals stem changed garage reset gearbox adaptations and told me box will adapt within 100 miles or so drove home in heavy traffic so to early to tell yet.

 

      Hope this will cure slight “shove” on occasional low down changes that I have been feeling of late and generally smooth things out and stop me worrying!

 

       Four hours work £350 pleasant old school professional staff money well spent time will tell plan to sort out suspension refresh next.......

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7 hours ago, Otto said:

So, 

     After deciding to keep car for at least a couple more years and stressing about the auto box not being serviced to my knowledge had this done at Automatic Transmissions Preston today on recommendation of members here.

 

     All seemed to go straight forward , no evidence of leaks fluid “alright really” considering it was confirmed first attention box has received since manufacture as original pan with date stamp. All seals stem changed garage reset gearbox adaptations and told me box will adapt within 100 miles or so drove home in heavy traffic so to early to tell yet.

 

      Hope this will cure slight “shove” on occasional low down changes that I have been feeling of late and generally smooth things out and stop me worrying!

 

       Four hours work £350 pleasant old school professional staff money well spent time will tell plan to sort out suspension refresh next.......

 

Hope you don’t mind me asking but was that £350 for parts and labour??

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51 minutes ago, Otto said:

£350 was all in parts labour vat seemed reasonable price and they appeared very knowledgeable,

 

Regards

 

Wow, that is good. I’ve been quoted £330 just for labour (I have all the parts needed). 

 

Such a shame Preston is a loooooong way for me. 

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£350 was all in parts labour vat seemed reasonable price and they appeared very knowledgeable,
 
Regards
What oil and filter did they use?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

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Used lifeguard and correct filter, I asked for metal conversion but was told it was not available for my model and year,

have no reason to disbelieve them people here have used them and they appear to have a positive reputation, on inquiry informed they do a number of these services on ZF boxes here’s hoping it’s all good.

suspension refresh next when cash allows!

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2nd prom outing in a year for the 545. Last year my niece and this year was special as it was my daughters (the one on the right). 

 

Running late so only a quick detailer spray and window clean. But it held it's own despite being one of the cheapest cars dropping off.

 

Btw. This car is 15 years old next year! 

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Edited by warnie

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8 hours ago, Haych said:

 

Wow, that is good. I’ve been quoted £330 just for labour (I have all the parts needed). 

 

Such a shame Preston is a loooooong way for me. 

Me too - best part of 300 miles round trip but I timed my service in with a trip to the area. Still good 2 years on I'm glad to say. :)

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On Saturday i replaced the NSF lower rear arm, as the ball joint was on its way out. I had been getting some creaking/knocking sound upon braking, so was hoping this would help. I also checked & tightened the top mounts and strut brace; all bolts seemed to have a degree of movement which i nipped up. After some more Googling i came upon a thread here where Jason seemed to have had the same issue and discovered it is the guide bushes for the brake caliper sliding pins. Ordered a set for each side to see if they finally cure this noise. 

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I found my Ctek charger adapter in the glove box so I finally figured out the best way to connect it, bolted under the jump start point and then to the coolant bracket as it had an empty M6 insert and it's bolted to the turret with 2 M4 bolts so it makes a good earth.

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22 minutes ago, dj1233 said:

...I had been getting some creaking/knocking sound upon braking, ...and discovered it is the guide bushes for the brake caliper sliding pins. Ordered a set for each side to see if they finally cure this noise. 

 

I'll be interested to here what you find on this also ;).

 

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, DarkHorse said:

 

I'll be interested to here what you find on this also ;).

 

 

 

 

Me 3.

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1 minute ago, DarkHorse said:

 

I'll be interested to here what you find on this also ;).

 

 

 

 

This job should be pins, guides and hone out the holes to prevent binding. You can get hone from Amazon US that is the same as the £60 ATE one. https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DB89FCC/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A2KVF7QXNCLV8H&psc=1

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In my case: Straight line moderate low speed braking, hard enough to gently dip the front end, I hear a series of mild knocks/creaks as the brake loads up and then again when the brake unloads. The harder the braking the more knocks you get loading up and unloading. Though I can't reproduce the noises any other way, even by pushing the front end down manually when stationary.

 

If it were a ball joint then I would expect one clonk with brake on and another with break off, still a highly likely suspect though (reluctantly). Or maybe steering rack/tie rods but the tracking is stable with no front tyre wear issues for 13k miles.

 

Also not the same as the noise that can be heard from the front anti roll bar center rubber bush, I notice sometimes driving off from cold on a cool day when dropping over a speed bump a little to fast, when the rubber bush can moan.
Not the shock tower bolts or the engine bay cross brace bolts either (which were all a bit lose at ~10nm).

 

 

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Can you not get it on a ramp and have someone put there hand on each joint as you brake. 

That is what I did, I was sure it was brakes, but was that front arm again. The joint on the hub end. 

 

 

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