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What did you do to your E60/61 today?

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45 minutes ago, Modge said:

I know its most likely not going to make a difference at the MOT, but im just a bit wary after reading so many conflicting things. Just wanted to take away any doubts!

 

Yeah i know what you mean - too much internet scaremongering regarding HIDs and MOTs - all totally unnecessary and inaccurate.

 

When you properly compare your HIDs to those halogens - you’ll never go back to them. Thats what I found when I made the switch from halogens. 

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2 hours ago, andy-e60 said:

When you properly compare your HIDs to those halogens - you’ll never go back to them. Thats what I found when I made the switch from halogens. 

Just been out for a spin with the new HIDs, got to agree with you, way better than Halogens and even my LEDs I was running. Just put the high power LEDs that the HIDs replaced into the full beams too.  Just need LED fog lights and thats me set!

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Finished this round of work to the car, final problem that is came with is hopefully fixed (sump gasket)

Remaining few vac lines replaced and a new inlet manifold complete with swirl flaps.

 

The car goes like stink from a standstill again with the flaps back in!

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Today will hopefully see my e61 530i back on the road following:

(this work was carried out over the last week or so)

Replacement  of vibration damper, aux drive belt, tensioner and deflection pulley.

Replacement of the oil filter housing gaskets.

Replacement of the oil filter after someone fitted the wrong one and the oil filter cap as they broke the middle off it to fit the wrong filter.

Changed oil and coolant.

Replaced rear brake pads.

Removal of wheel spacers as I didn’t like how the car was handling (very bad tramlining).

Changed spark plugs.

 

When I bought the car before Christmas I was slightly underwhelmed by the performance and drive. Just back from a quick spin and the car not pulls and drives how I expected it to.

 

Still need to refresh the gear linkage as there’s a lot of side to side play, but will leave that for another day.

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Changed fuel filter and finished off the wiring to my electric rear blind.

Fuel filter still had factory hose clips installed, so i guess its never been changed not bad considering its now at 140,000 miles 

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19 hours ago, Misterbish said:

Changed fuel filter and finished off the wiring to my electric rear blind.

Fuel filter still had factory hose clips installed, so i guess its never been changed not bad considering its now at 140,000 miles 

 

You can't change the petrol filters. They only come with the fuel pumps. 

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Gasket kit fitted to the vac pump, new engine breather, replaced a broken socket on a temp sensor, cleaned oil and shit out of the engine bay in the hope I have now nailed all the leaks!

Found the turbo oil feed had started to leak so replaced that as well.

 

Edited by GoNz0

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18 minutes ago, ger said:

Good work there. Turbo oil feed pipe needs changing on mine, it seems to be weeping a little bit, I'll do it sometime soon.

It was suggested to take it off and have the local hose company recrimp it but I had already bought a new one by then!

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17 hours ago, GoNz0 said:

It was suggested to take it off and have the local hose company recrimp it but I had already bought a new one by then!

I had'nt though of getting it re-crimped. I thought it was seeping slowlyvthrough the pipe (similar to the e39 power steering hoses)..

How much was the new one, if you don't mind me asking?

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1 hour ago, ger said:

I had'nt though of getting it re-crimped. I thought it was seeping slowlyvthrough the pipe (similar to the e39 power steering hoses)..

How much was the new one, if you don't mind me asking?

About £40

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18 hours ago, GoNz0 said:

It was suggested to take it off and have the local hose company recrimp it but I had already bought a new one by then!

'lucky' you guys it's just the pipe. one of mine turbos (top one) leaks from the bloody housing joint. doesn't loose much oil, but still, it leaks... cannot fix it without taking it all out  and having it rebuilt.

Edited by baku911

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18 minutes ago, baku911 said:

'lucky' you guys it's just the pipe. one of mine turbos (top one) leaks from the bloody housing joint. doesn't loose much oil, but still, it leaks... cannot fix it without taking it all out  and having it rebuilt.

Mine may still have a housing leak but I then found the oil pipe above leaking so will need to have a look in a hundred miles to see.

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Replaced the front fog lamps.  They had seen better days with UV damage and cloudy/pitted lenses. LEDs replaced the halogens previously and complete the 6k look up front. B) Next job was the track/tie rod ends. N/S had play and was relatively straight forward.  O/S wasn't having it at all. It probably needed heat, but my blow torch is at work. I gave up after two hours, it would not budge. The O/S was just preventative maintenance and will get through the MOT in March without me touching it. I checked for play in the thrust arms and again, they'll pass an MOT, they'll need doing at something. Meyle do an HD kit with a 4-year warranty to cover stabiliser and thrust/control arms etc.  Tracking to be done tomorrow and new tyres all round after that. 

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Got a 4 wheel alignment done. The steering wheel is straight again and the rear needed adjusting too apparently. All ready for new tyres when I can decide on a set/mot date arrives. 

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Noticed a bit of surging when cold creeping back in and a more pronounced jump in power at 4K rpm so looked like cleaning the vanos solenoids was only a temporary fix so two new ones fitted today.

Had a quick spin and only slight surging when cold but put that down to the solenoids only being fitted (it was that slight I may have been looking for a problem that wasn’t there).

Rev’d it out in 3rd once the engine had warmed. Big improvement :)

 

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Avoided a lorry who drove towards me with one side of tyre in my line.. opted to damage the tyre and wheel instead of scraping the whole driver side... Hit the kerb really bad on the passenger side. Will have to check if 19" spider is still ok. New  Good year asymmetric3 will have to be ordered. ... Not a good day at all.. 

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Took advantage of the weather and fitted new Pagid rear brake pads and shoes. Handbrake is down from 12 clicks and creeping down a slope, to 6 and holding still. Took about 2 hours and no swearing or bleeding knuckles.....result.

RgdS Paj.

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18 hours ago, Paj said:

Took advantage of the weather and fitted new Pagid rear brake pads and shoes. Handbrake is down from 12 clicks and creeping down a slope, to 6 and holding still. Took about 2 hours and no swearing or bleeding knuckles.....result.

RgdS Paj.

Did you adjust the cable? from what I've seen its under the centre console

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Hi Mr B,

I didn't need to so I didn't go looking for adjusters. The old shoes had plenty of meat on them but were unbranded rubbish. I had lots of dust when wire brushing inside the drum. I keep looking for slopes to test it on now :D

Also just reset the rear brake service on idrive. That is easy too!

RgdS Paj. 

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I've had a cylinder #1 glow plug fault code for a week or two, so last night whipped the inlet manifold off and changed the glow plug. Old one had failed, it was giving a resistace reading of about 18ohm, they should be about 1ohm ish. 

Shame you can't change them without removing the manifold but there we go. 

No more codes now :)

 

Then I spotted some small ball bearings on the scuttle (I thought they were seeds!). 

Turns out that my wiper linkage was in the process of self destructing! I had heard a couple of clunks in the past few days but it continued to work fine, though I doubt if would have worked more than a few seconds after this, pretty close call...

Luckily, I had bought the repair kit from 'Ask the mechanic' months ago (last June) and I was able to fit it. The shorter link arm remained on the car when I removed the wiper arm!!

The video instructions were great and everything went smoothly. Nice, silent and free running wipers again :)

 

If you hear any clunks from your wipers, check them out. If your car has done over say 120 thousand, it might be a wise piece of 'preventative maintenance' to carry out. I seriously wouldn't want the wipers failing on me 'on the road' and for £12 (and 5p), it's well worth it. 

This is the kit I bought:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F262811430562

 

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Thanks for the wiper bearing info. I had the same bearing type rust and break up on the misses' Renault Scenic (*cough*), after also spotting the fallen bearing seeds. Then I found that the bearings are the same size as can be found in a kids scooter wheel bearing or the ones in those annoying fidget spinners ;). Drill out and replace the old bolt, add washer, job done. The E60 appears to be a similar/same design.

If anyone who notices the wiper bearings begining to rust, short term, consider spraying a bit of WD40 and attempt to get some grease in the bearing, to free them up and help slow down the water corrosion process.

 

 

Edited by DarkHorse
typo's

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2 hours ago, DarkHorse said:

Thanks for the wiper bearing info. I had the same bearing type rust and break up on the misses' Renault Scenic (*cough*), after also spotting the fallen bearing seeds. Then I found that the bearings are the same size as can be found in a kids scooter wheel bearing or the ones in those annoying fidget spinners ;). Drill out and replace the old bolt, add washer, job done. The E60 appears to be a similar/same design.

If anyone who notices the wiper bearings begining to rust, short term, consider spraying a bit of WD40 and attempt to get some grease in the bearing, to free them up and help slow down the water corrosion process.

 

 

 

Best thing to use is a marine grease/blue grease. Its designed to be used in applications where exposure to fresh & salt water occurs, ensuring bearings are kept lubricated and keeping rust at bay. Always used this on Motorcycle headstock bearings due to their exposure to the elements. 

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