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DJ-520D

520D Fault codes and no power

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Only had my 2008 520d for about 3 hours when it all went down hill. When I start the car it runs rough and cuts out, takes few try's to get it to actually stay running. Also there is zero power, it wouldn't pull over 60Mph in 4th gear! So the car is under warranty so I took it back to where I bought it (Citroen and Volvo dealer) and they plugged it in and they told me it's an intermittent heater plug fault. I wasn't impressed with their diagnosis so I went to my local BMW specialist and he got the following codes.

4507 Exhaust-gas recirculation, control deviation

4C9E Exhaust-gas recirculation valve, plausibility

4C9F Exhaust-gas recirculation valve, plausibility

3FF0 Air-mass flow sensor

4530 Charge-air pressure control, control deviation

The BMW specialists reckon I'm looking at a new turbo and possibly egr valve depending on if it's only a vacume pipe problem. They also said the air mass flow sensor is probably only cause by the egr fault.

Anyway I'm just looking for some more advice and what you guys think it could be. The car is at the garage I bought it now and they want another opinion so they are sending it to a main dealer on Tuesday. I just want them to fix it properly, I'm quiet annoyed with them that they fobbed me off with the stupid intermittent heater plug fault!!

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A good mechanic gets his hands dirty when doing a proper diagnosis! It means that trouble codes are just a guide to help you move towards the right direction. Troubleshooting is a combination of electronic interrogation, electrical checks and probably most important of all mechanical checks.

 

Judging from the error codes you have, I suspect your EGR valve does not follow the ECU commands. In other words either the EGR valve feedback is faulty or the EGR valve is indeed stack . A possible cause could be the EGR valve, not to mention the entire intake system, is packed with carbon deposits. Your mechanic should inspect EGR and intake. That's the whole idea behind the drive for EGR deletion and remapping!

 

Once your ECU detects emission faults (EGR related), the engine goes into limp mode, that's why you could get no power out of it.

 

What is the mileage of the car?

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Milage is 129,000 but it had a top to bottom rebuild at 98,000 miles. The timimg chain gave trouble but the whole engine was stripped and refreshed, new crankshaft, crank bearings, rod bearings, piston rings and the rest. Obviously the likes of the turbo and egr valve weren't changed at this time. I'd presume the intake was cleaned during this too but you never know.

The specialist I went to reckons the egr is causing the car to run rough and cut out unpon engine start up, it's chocking itself, he said it could be as simple as a vacume leak. He also said that the lack of power was down to the actuator on the turbo being stuck or broken. He was only doing me a favour and was under pressure for time when he checked it so he couldn't look into it too much but he says from his past experience it will probably need a new turbo and egr valve. I've no smoke or unusual noise coming from the car, it's very heavy on fuel tho avg about 27mpg. The car is parked now until they can get to the bottom of it.

My fear at the minute is that the garage I bought the car at don't have the knowledge to fix it properly and il be left with botched fix and have more trouble down the line! I had the car out on 3 long test drives and it never missed a beat until the day I collected it!!

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Unplug the egr. Takes 2 seconds and it could rule out that as a problem. Just pull the hose of it and bung the hose with a screw.

Mine caused a lack of throttle response, a misfire at 70 and boost pulsation until I unplugged it

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Milage is 129,000 but it had a top to bottom rebuild at 98,000 miles. The timimg chain gave trouble but the whole engine was stripped and refreshed, new crankshaft, crank bearings, rod bearings, piston rings and the rest. Obviously the likes of the turbo and egr valve weren't changed at this time. I'd presume the intake was cleaned during this too but you never know.

The specialist I went to reckons the egr is causing the car to run rough and cut out unpon engine start up, it's chocking itself, he said it could be as simple as a vacume leak. He also said that the lack of power was down to the actuator on the turbo being stuck or broken. He was only doing me a favour and was under pressure for time when he checked it so he couldn't look into it too much but he says from his past experience it will probably need a new turbo and egr valve. I've no smoke or unusual noise coming from the car, it's very heavy on fuel tho avg about 27mpg. The car is parked now until they can get to the bottom of it.

My fear at the minute is that the garage I bought the car at don't have the knowledge to fix it properly and il be left with botched fix and have more trouble down the line! I had the car out on 3 long test drives and it never missed a beat until the day I collected it!!

Irrelevant to the problem you are having now, but the according to the parts listed above, the timing chain actually snapped at 98k, and did a lot of damage. Replacing the crankshaft and bearings explains the extend of the damage.

 

As Knuckle mentioned, try to disconnect EGR and see what happens. To be honest I thought that with EGR disconnected the ECU would initiate limp mode anyway.

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I know the car and previous owner, the chain didn't break, the crankshaft was replaced due to damaged on the sprocket on it. The previous owner done the full refresh of the engine because he planned on keeping it but his circumstances changed. The garage will have the car probably until Friday, hopefully they will resolve the issue but I'm not very confident in them.

Its going to the main dealer on Tuesday so I will update then with what they think is the problem and if they can fix it.

4530 Charge-air pressure control, control deviation

With regards to this code does this mean that the actuator on the turbo is gone or stuck? Or is it possible that this code is being thrown as a side affect of an egr problem?

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That intermittent heater plug fault sounds rubbish. How's your main dealer been so far? Their equipment should read the error codes properly and explain what they actually mean in depth...

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The main dealer is being very helpfull so far, the garage I bout it at is a Citroen and Volvo dealer, there not so helpfull! The report from the main dealer was that there are two faulty heater plugs and a faulty egr valve. They think that the turbo actuator fault could be related to the egr fault so they have a new egr ordered and are fitting that first and will then check the turbo actuator again to see if the fault remains. If it remains they will replace the turbo.

The garage I bought the car at are suggesting I done something with it to cause the actuator fault so that I would get a new turbo fitted under warranty, needless to say I wasn't happy with this! I picked the car up at 6 on a Thursday and within 10 miles of my first drive as new owner it went into limp mode. The car was them parked until the next morning when I returned it at 9, barely doing 30 miles!

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I have an 520d, E60 from 2007.

 

I encountered the same issues like your car had. I went with the car to the BMW service but they're charging 140+VAT per hour so I took it back in the same way I send it.

 

The turbo was changed recently, also the DPF, the manifold seals are OK, there are no leaks. 

 

The EGR valve and the actuator from the turbo, the pressure control valve and the vacuum pump they are in good condition, all verified. I have few error codes (3 related to the 2nd injector and two with the air intake air flow sensor, but the sensor was recently cleaned and checked, it's working fine.

 

The logical explanation for this is that the solenoid pump (attached below) is not doing it's job, although I bought a new one. It seems there is no current going to the pump, which won't allow the EGR valve (see the picture) to open and let the exhaust gasses to go back into the admission chambers. (In my car the EGR is electronic and is got two valves, one activated electronically and the other one with the vacuum pump - called solenoid pump, so it's the vacuum valve which is not working properly, not the electronic valve, which seems to function).

 

I tried everything, since I wanted to know exactly what's wrong with the car, but with no success. I book an appointment in a BMW service (not the dealer) on Wednesday next week, hopefully they will find the problem. 

 

I'll keep you posted.

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UPDATE:

 

I discovered by mistake a hole in the intake manifold (picture below) which definitely was not supposed to be there. It looks like the plastic was melted. I put a plug and the car seems to work a bit better, but not in the way it supposed to. I found and delete few fault codes, few related with the second injector, one with the EGR (explained by the air loss through that hole) and few other errors related to that hole.

image.jpeg

Edited by Ireal
Update

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