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stuart1

e34 540 won't start-turn over

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thats me got a digital volt meter , the batterys back in the car & is 13.14 volts 

 

i checked the fusible link at the battery with the meter its fine .

 

the car still won't turn over & my gauges & wipers still don't work .

 

any ideas what to check next please . 

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the starters not doing a thing , when it rolled off the back of the aa truck the driver let me try to start it in reverse but nothing , i'll try a tow today but i don't think it will work 

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Haha that's a bit far!, have you had codes read yet? If you have adequate voltage at the battery then I'd be inclined to think it's something in the starter circuit, the dash playing up though would make me lean towards an earthing problem. Have you checked the main motor earth strap? between the drivers side engine mount bit and chassis? Failing that have a search on here, I had a no start issue on my wagon and although it was a stupid connector not plugged in the practise of tracing it down may help you? You do have 100% confidence in the battery now yes?

Tried starting it with the general module removed?

Edited by Idiot

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the only earth i've not took off & cleaned is the main engine one as i couldn't see it , i'll have another look .

 

when i checked the battery this morning the green bit in it was showing & it was at 13.8 volts , once connected to the car it was 13.14 if i mind right , i think the voltage dropped a tiny bit due to 1 of the small heater sensors buzzing behind the radio .

 

i've not had the fault codes read yet , i read if you press the accelerator 5 times in 5 seconds the fault codes will come up on the dash but since the dash display is stopped working ...

 

i'm a 100% sure the battery is good .

 

the aa guy did say i should check all the earth straps 1st . 

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If you lie under the car the main engine one goes from the chassis rail to the block by the offside engine mount.

When you say the accelerator pedal 5 times etc and faults get displayed on the dash, are you referring to "the stomp test" as this doesn't work on UK cars as they don't have check engine lights, you'll need a diagnostic code reader type jobbie and read them off the obd port.

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i took off the earth at the chassis end as it was easy to get to & gave it a sand & put it back on ( it looked ok ) i put the meter from the jump start terminal to the engine & the meter is showing 13.01 volts the exact same as the battery so all earths must be fine .

 

a trip to bmw with the car on a trailer my be my only option now i think . 

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Just read this, if the wipers are going funny, then it could well be the fusible link.  When failing, the fusible link can fracture and sometimes it is very difficult to spot.

 

For a £5 I would replace the fusible link first.

 

Can you also confirm the build month and year of your 6sp?  Once I retrieve some files, I can take a look through the wiring diagrams to see what it might otherwise be.

 

Cheers

 

Geoff

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thanks geoff , i just looked under the bonnet , the car was built in may 95 

 

i take it crossing the fusible link with jump leads few a few secs to try to start the car would rule out it being faulty

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Hmmm, on the later cars, as I recall, there are two fusible links.  Essentially there are two main circuits in the car, the front one that runs via the fusebox in the engine bay, is supplied by the heavy duty red cable coming off the battery and the rear one that runs by the fusebox under the rear seat and is supplied by the lighter duty red cable running from the battery.

 

I have a 1992 iX and that only has one fusible link, that protects the rear circuit.  The front circuit is not protected.  When I found this out, I was very surprised as I would expect both to be protected by a fusible link.

 

I wasn't surprised to find therefore in later cars, that the front also had been fitted with a fusible link.  I am not sure of it's exact location.

 

Re your later message, is the starter relay not in the front ECU box located on the offside?

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i can't find a fusible link at the front of the car , i took the relays out of the ecu box & put them back in incase there was a bad connection , the car still won't turn over  

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Ok.

If you say you now have a decent battery,you need to locate and identify the starter relay. Since yours is manual you won't have a relay as such but a simple bridge inside what looks like a relay. Once you've found this 'relay' open it. You will see its just simple strip of metal between two terminals in the starter curcuit.

With the ignition on apply battery voltage to the strip. The starter should spin and the motor start. If no start check for battery voltage at the starter B+ terminal. You should also have battery voltage at the alternator and B+ jump start post. No power? Check/ bypass fusible link and/or battery.

You can also set up your own temporary engine earth,using a decent jump lead from a good earth point on the motor direct to the chassis/ body

There are various earthing points under the dash. Ensure all is well here also.

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ok thanks , i shall try tomorrow .

 

i read this 2nd last paragraph 

 

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1603109-1995-540i-6-Speed-No-Crank-and-No-Door-Locks/page2

 

and thought great it was cold when my car stopped starting , i took the general module out & heated it with a hair drier . the cars still not working !

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Been thinking about this.... ignition switch end is my fav at mo.... also remove glovebox and lower trim and you will find a set of multiplugs on the floor which connect the car to the dashboard, worth a look....

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i was thinking about the ignition switch on my way home as i never broke down as such , i switched the car off once parked then it never started .

 

would i be right in thinking when the ignition switch is turned to start that if 1 wire goes live ( the starter wire ) then the ignition is ok ?

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