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Found 5 results

  1. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Sins I'm in the process of replacing all the rubber seals on the motor I decided to replace all 24 valve stem seals. As you can see the old one's are all worn out after 23 years of where and tear and definitely needed replacing. The easiest way to remove the old valve seals, is simply to sharpen a small screwdriver and chop carefully through the metal side of the seal to loosen them from the valve stem guides. For those who do not know it, then this little info; valve seals are one of the most overlooked maintenance in the engine and that might be, because they are hard to get to and time-consuming to say the least, but leaky seals can cause all kind of problems in the upper half of the engine, especially if the valve guides are a worn and thereby create a blow-by and carbon buildup on the valves and oil consumption that can lead to some blue smoke and oily exhaust. This must be the most boring picture that I ever put up
  2. If your estate BMW 5 Series (known as a Touring or the F11 or the GT F07) has its backside on the ground one morning or you have an error message on your dash relating to a ride fault or an air suspension fault, have a look through these threads to give you an idea on what the issue is and how to resolve it. This is a collection of just some of the threads to be found on here, not all are one here simply due to the fact, they were never resolved or closed out so there is nothing to be learned from them. This is purely a reference thread to other posts on here and is not to be used as a discussion thread. Failure symptoms above thread was closed out in last post of this next thread DIY guide to replacing the rear sir springs. DIY Guide to replace the solenoid valve System Behaviour Normal behaviour Compressor Compressor removal (access needed to NewTIS) Compressor Faults Ride Height Queries F11 Rear suspension height F07 Ride height query F11 ride height to high One side failure F07 Bump Stop issues Disintegrating rear bump stops Valve block Air spring fault Lowering of an F11 Standard or MSport Air spring differences Tech chat on tools needed for air line. Relay If you want another thread adding to this, please message me and I'll reference it in here.
  3. The back box has 2 tail pipes, the inner most one has a vacuum / spring opperated valve inside it that is closed at idle. I found that I can test the DME electronicly generated (I think) vacuum operated flap / valve using INPA: - Select Engine N53 MSD80 Siemens - F6- Activate - F1 - Stellgliedansteuerung1 - SHIFT + F2 - AbGasKlappe AGK (Exhaust Valve/Flap) - F1 - AGK ein - Turns the Valve on for 15 Seconds - F2 - AGK aus - Turns the Valve off for 15 Seconds - F4 - Ansteurun Zuruck an DME - Returns control of back to the ECU (DME) If not the exact same key strokes then just follow the German phrases. I expect the E60 N53 525i/530i is closed at idle and probably opens the valve above 3k RPM but not able to verify. The N53 in a 330i reports to open at idle (for noise effect) then close between 1k RPM and 3k RPM. I got bored and force my muffler valve open all the time with a cable tie. The back box sounds slightly different at idle, a bit beefy but nothing much to shout about. Going to leave it for a week or two and evaluate at various speeds and conditions. I googled around and there seems to be a wide variety of reasons for the flap (mostly hear say) but I'm not convinced by any of them being factually correct, other than for mild noise control.
  4. Help! I'm getting a little judder / kick around 12 - 1500rpm and quite a lot of black dust when under load, so much so that there's a constant black mark around my rear bumper / exhaust area Now then when I turn the engine off there's a brief clicking noise from around the egr / vacum pressure valve, now putting two and two together I disconnected the valve (part number 7.02318.00) unbelievable no judder and no smoke under load! Would it be possible for somebody to confirm if 1) it's ok to drive with this plug disconnected? (It's drove so smooth and without any obvious issues for the last 10miles) 2) which part could be faulty? I'm getting married on the 1st July and really can't afford any £1000 garage bills at the moment. Somebody suggested spraying a tin of egr cleaner through it which I did, but with no effect. The only thing that cures it is disconnecting the plug to what I believe is the vacum pressure valve? Many thanks in advance for taking the time to read this post
  5. I have recently purchased a 525e. There is a loud tapping coming from 2 of the rockers no matter where I set them. one is on the inlet and one the exhaust side and I have gone as far as swapping the 2 adjusters over so the valve sits on a different part of the adjuster, (with the hole to the underside of the adjuster) to eliminate it being a flat spot on the excentric rotor adjuster. I can tell the 2 that it is coming from by blocking the breather off and putting a screw driver on the rocker shaft and listening while running the engine (with no rocker cover on obviously). I have removed the clips and slid the rockers up and down the shaft to check for any play in the rocker bearings which feel fine. The top of the valve is not worn at all and unless it is coming from the valve seats I can't understand what is causing it, however I'm sure that if it was the valve seats tapping on return it wouldn't be coming through the rocker shaft as it wouldn't be knocking against the rocker arm but the inside of the valve seat. Has anyone had any similar kind of problems in the past, and if so does anyone know a cure? Would be greatly appreciated. Tim