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Showing results for tags 'two stage steering wheel'.
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In case, as I experienced when I mistakenly bought a two stage air bag steering wheel, instead of one stage for my car, I would like to give this advice to any one who is thinking of getting a new or refurbished steering wheel. These are two different type of steering wheels, on the left is a one stage airbag wheel and on the right is a two stage air bag wheel. It is nearly impossible to put a two stage wheel, in a car that was born with one stage steering wheel. My advice and 2c, do not try to attempt to do that conversion, unless you have a good understanding on reprogramming the ECU bin. files, (that is if you decide to convert it to a functional two stage airbag car) and a fairly good understanding of your car wiring. So far, I have not heard of anyone that has made this conversion 100% to the specs and correct......> But, there is an "easier" way around this, by scarifying one of the stages of the airbag, thereby it becomes a one stage airbag steering wheel, like the one you have in the older BMW´s like mine from 1997. Sins writing this above in 2016, I have mounted the two stage steering wheel (in late 2018) and I got it to works perfectly, including all the control buttons and the airbag, without getting the red airbag warning light! and again in late 2020 I mounted again a "new", two stage steering wheel with shifter flaps, with the same positive results You can read more about how to make this changeover with other pictures and "info/instructions" I have in my portfolio.
I was among them who stated that it would be hard if not impossible, to install a two stage air bag steering wheel in a one stage steering wheel car from 97' but on the contrary, it is possible to do so without getting any red airbag warning lights. It is not straight forward replacement but it is possible, by using the old clock spring, plus some modifications to the back side of the steering wheel by forming a new base for the old clock with a "aluminum epoxy" for the clock spring base, plus grinding/drilling and cutting a new hole for the plugs and wires. One stage clock spring is mounted on the steering wheel itself but two stage is mounted on the steering column itself and those are to different type of steering columns and wiring + connecting plugs. If this is done right, everything should work just fine, but with the sacrifice of loosing one of the airbag stages, so if it blows, you only get full blast instead of slightly less if you should get into a minor accident as the two stage was intended to work. I'm willing to accept a full blow and sacrifice the lesser one, not that I have any personal experience from airbags in my face. My first try was plugging into stage #2, red warning light that I had to erase but was unsuccessful. Tried stage #1 and ones again I got red light but it was easy to erase and now everything works including everything else on the steering wheel. That took me by a surprise, sins this steering wheel has 4 extra buttons that where not on the old one. This steering wheel is a little bit smaller in diameter and thicker in your hands and not as bulky at the stem, therefor it is easier to see the bottom half of the instrument panel. If you are wondering what that thing is in the right corner of the picture? I had an old original BMW telephone holder that I added USB charger to it and a fold up stand/holder for my tablet or phone.
Hear are the electrical circuit board's that I had to make some modifications to. I had to remove the three tiny 2mm resistors (you can see the leftover from the solder) and then we cut of the two leads on the circuit board with 5 wires, that is the one that is white and the one that is yellow/light brownish wire. All we are using are the brown and red leads. The green wire will be connected to earth, inside the steering wheel. Usually a brown wire indicates earth but for some reason they chose to use green for earth (come to think of it, then I remember seeing green color used for earth in other places on e39). The only two connections left are brown and red and these are the ones we use for the up and down shift signals. Therefor you only need to solder two new wires, one to the red and one to the brown and then connect threes wires to the two contacts, that where meant for the steering wheel hating elements on the clock spring, after that you are finished with the steering wheel setup itself and that goes without saying that you have mounted the clock spring to the steering wheel itself. Note! The SMG circuit board is totally different from SSG.
This is how it looks like after preliminary work has been done and next step is to add the new foundation for the spring clock. I got hold of a aluminium epoxy "puddy" quite a remarkable stuff to work with. Aluminium epoxy comes in the form of finger thick stick that is two component and all you do is cut of a pice of it and maschash it between your fingers, after that it is flexable and easy to form. All you have to do is apply it to the base stem of the wheel and then press the clock spring over it and then just let it be until the aluminium epoxy turnes into something that looks like a metal aluminium. This clock has two brass rings on it and most likly yours have only black plastic. Those two rings are originally used for a a steering wheel that was headed. Now, instead of using these contacts for heading we use them as two contacts to send appropriate signals to the automatic through two carbon brushes that are mounted in a smal hole or loop-fastener behind the clock spring, one for up shift and one for down shift. One thing you schold be aware of: it is Imperative to mount the clock spring exactly the same as the old one, otherwise your tun signal might not come of at the right time or maby not at all. You might think that the middle part of the clock spring with the brass pointing down schould be straight in the middle, pointing 90° up but actually it schould be more like 94° or 4° to the right. If you are thinking that you can just put the steering wheel a little bit crooket on to correct this, then remember you have to get the car front wheels alined. It is much easyer to simply grind away the aluminium epoxy and start again. More to come....