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Found 5 results

  1. Hey guys thought id do a wee separate thread on this as ive just finished my install. Couldn't find a thread like this when I was doing mine, over the course of the restoration. Bit of a read sorry, but will help if you are replacing OEM stuff. Total cost was under £400. Speakers are easy any 13cm decent brand speaker will do you will I opted for Sony XS-FB1330, I replaced all 4. Tips: use some window draft sealer on the speaker where it meets the OEM housing for best sealed sound quality, and if you gently pull the OEM foam of you can easily reuse with a little contact adhesive. 2 in the rear parce shelf and 2 in the front door cards, I left the OEM tweeters in place. Heatunit is a little more complicated. My requirements where I wanted a volume knob, apple car play, and steering buttons to work. So I opted for a Sony xav-ax1000, very nice unit by the way and that powers the 4 speakers with 4x45w Amps. for the facia I bought a cheap one off chinabay, there are a few different models around, I personally think the one I have looks best, most stock if you will. Now you don't need to modify it, but I did for the perfect fit, I used the sony mounting bracket and gorilla glued it onto the plastic fascia, this mounted the headunit perfectly flush once fitted in place. The fascial clips into the gap left by the OEM headunit nicely, and to remove the new headunit I find it easier just to pull the hole thing out as one piece with the fascia included. easy with a couple plastic pry tools. Now the connection part: not all e39s are the same, mine had amp in the boot, so speaker cables where in the boot. I ran an ISO harness from the boot to the back of the headunit, down the left side of the car, just remove the scuff plates on the doors and push it into the carpet. You'll need an ISO adapter in my case 17 pin round (OEM) to ISO some might have flat pins. And the adapter connect the old amp connector to the new ISO harness which connects to the back of the headunit. Simple! Now for the "bits": Steering button you'll need a connects2 adapter, theres a couple models, but the CTSBM003.2 works on the e39, now this goes behind the headunit, the input to which needs to come form the Ibus cable original in the amp in the boot. I just cut the original cable and patched it into one of the ISO cables that weren't being used. and did the same at the new headunit end, patched it into the connect2 unit. then the unit connects to your headunit with a 3.5mm headphone jack. This worked perfectly all you have to do is in the settings of your headunit set ut to custom kets for the remote and it will prompt you to press the individually until it recognises the button and then you can assign it to what ever function you want. For the auto dimmer function, which again won't work unless you connect another switched 12v to the orange cable in the ISO harness. Easy way to do this is to patch a cable from the rear position light to the ISO harness in the boot. So when you turn the lights one it sees a signal and dims the screen. One this I found is that the ISO lead constant power (not the switched) wasn't powerful enough, so I ran a separate new constant 12v to the back of the headunit and didn't use the one from the ISO harness. Lastly a very sleek sub instal. These new undersea subs are fantastic, lots of brands do them, I opted for a Pioneer TS-WX130DA, only because there was a new one on FB going cheap. There all similar in size and power, 160w in this case active, so easy to install. I was planning on cutting a speaker sized whole in the ski hatch and mount it in the boot behind it, but when I got it and was fiddling with the placement I noticed its a perfectly tight fit wedged between the seat, tight enough that its not moving. plus its nice an vibration free! and looks good I think. Easy to quickly disconnect and put aside if I need to close the armrest, as its not affixed anywhere. Connecting it is easy came with cables and fuse, ran to the battery for power, ground and swiched power from the ISO harness same as the headunit. Then run a RCA cable from the headunit under the side of the car up under the back seat to it. The cables from the battery go behind the boot lining and through a OEM hole thats in the ski hatch area. Everything works great! and looks great to, I think anyway. Hope got helps someone. Sound is Epic, needs the sub to be good definitely.
  2. Hi All, I bought the aforementioned item from this forum about a year ago. Looking to sell it on now as i no longer have an e39. I'll add some pictures ASAP, or message me and i'll send them over. 2 x Rainbow Vanadium Subs in an MDF enclosure specifically built for an e39 saloon. The enclosure is very well built and fits in under the parcel shelf with and has both subs porting through the arm rest hatch. The inside of the box that you would see through the armrest hatch is trimmed in carpet, but the box itself is not. Looking for £120 Location is now Berkshire, Twyford, half way between Maidenhead and Reading. Can deliver within reasonable distance, close to M4, M40, M25 Please PM me if interested
  3. 2x12" Subwoofer Box SUB BOX ONLY - Collection Only £10 Item is used and was purchased for a project - but no longer required. Been sitting in my garage for quite a while now and now I need the space. It was all working when I took it out the car. Condition of Box: A couple of rips in the carpet as seen in the pics. This is on the back so it wont really been seen. Specifications : Dimentions of the box looking from front including amp attached Height : 43cm (amp=6cm ) Width : 79cm Depth : Top 27cm (amp=3cm) top Bottom 34cm Size of holes : 28cm AMP NOW SOLD! WIRING KIT NOW SOLD! SUBWOOFERS SPEAKERS NOW SOLD! Subwoofer Description : Condition of Speakers: A few marks on the speakers, as seen in the pics - nothing that affects performace though. Specifications : Speaker - Woofer 12"/30cm - Cone Type Peak Power - 1200w Rate Power - 350w Impedance - 4 ohms Sensitivity - 89 db/W/m Frequency response - 18-2000 Hz Mass - Approx 5.7 kg per speaker Condition of Amplifer: JBL GTO 6000 1100w AMP - a few scuff marks on the amp. Couple of screws missing - will try and find them. Specifications : Number of Channels : 6 Power Output max : 800w RMS Bridged Power Output ,4 Ohm : 550w RMS Power Output,2 Ohm : 4x75w/2x125w RMS Power Output,4 Ohm : 4x50w/2x75w THD@Rated Output : 0:10% SNR (A - weighted) : >92dB Frequency response : 10hz:40kHz Active crossover(cont.var.) : 30:320hz Crossover settings : HP/off+LP/OFF Crossover slope : 12db/oct Input sensitivity : 100mV:4V Bass Boost : +6DB@45Hz Condition of Wiring Kit: Autoleads wiring KIT - Brand new and Sealed. Delivery : Item is too heavy to post and must be collected from Birmingham near M6/J5. Any questions please ask. I need the space in my garage now so quick sell at Price - £10ono
  4. Evening All! I have seen a number if times now BMW Under seat Subs on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E60-E61-5-SERIES-SALOON-TOURING-SUBWOOFER-SUB-WOOFER-RIGHT-65136919354-/161036873031?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item257e8bad47 Is it simply just a case of buying, installing and Enjoying? or don't all models come pre wired? or will coding be required to activate the feature? Mine is a 525d Msport on a 2005. In additon, some on offer are for Right hand seat others are for the left. If this steering wheel side dependant or user preference? reason for this question is..... can you install one under each seat? Cheers Again! Allan
  5. I've got a rather nice Diamond Audio in a small sealed enclosure from a previous install and I'm thinking of installing it into the boot of my car for some extra bass. I have the basic boggo 'Business' system. No high OBC and with a tape player. I’ve only ever dealt with proper RCA’s in previous installs but in this instance I’ll need to use a speaker level feed and also find a way to switch the amp on. Hence I have 2 questions: 1. Are there any unused speaker wires which I can use to feed the signal to an amp? If not will I need to splice into one of the rear speakers (are they in the door or on the rear shelf?) 2. Is there an easily accessible remote feed in the boot anywhere? It seems a shame to have to have all the trim up from the front of the car for the sake of a remote feed. If there isn’t can I buy something which senses a signal to switch the amp on to avoid taking the car apart? Thanks in advance
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