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Found 8 results

  1. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Honestly, I have lost count of how many steering wheels I have put in my car sins I got it back in 2010 but I think this is number 4. This steering wheel is actually a SSG steering wheel, probably from a e46 that looks like a SMG wheel with a carbon film. What "they" did is they covered the hole that is between the down spokes with fiberglass or some kind of raisin and then it looks like SMG wheel with no hole in the middle and then cowered it with carbon film. Unfortunately, you can not see the bottom half in this picture, but there are other pictures in my log that show the bottom half of the steering wheel. Although this is a two stage steering wheel and my car is a one stage it can be mounted with some modifications to the steering wheel stem/root for the new clock-spring that is from a steering wheel with heating capability and connect only one of the stages of the air bag. That said, it means that if the airbag blows, it will only give you a full blast in all cases. When connecting the paddles you need to take the paddles apart and remove two tiny(2mm) resistor in each of them (corr. I think that was only 1 resistor on one of them and 2 on the other one, you will see them when you open them up), otherwise they will not give a clear ground as they should (read about it in another description in my folio). If you look trough my folio you can read much more about how to mount a two stage wheel on a one stage e39 from 1997. #7 SSG-Circuit Board For The Flaps The thing I like about this setup is that, instead of having two "Yoda" ears with + and - on them on each side, I now have two cuddly soft cat ears . With the SSG paddles I can both up or downshift on bot left and right side that you can not with a SMG + and - shifters as far as I know. My setup is; when I pull them toward me, they shift up and if I push on the top, they shift down. It is easy to convert the shifting sequins just by switching the wires. All buttons on the steering wheel are functional and no air bag warning lights in the dash.
  2. V_MAX

    SSG -SMG/Bastard_With 14 Functions

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    There are more than one reason I chose to buy this steering wheel....you can see the steering wheel inside the car hear; SSG-SMG Steering Wheel With Flaps in e39 from Feb.1997-/04.04.2021 First of all, I wanted a steering wheel that looked like an SMG wheel but didn't like the flap design with these long pointy or thin flaps with + and - and then again I didn't like the SSG steering wheel, because the spoke pointing down is split into two with a gap in it, but the flaps have a nice sophisticated design and you have the option of up or downshift on both "flaps" separate from each other, that you can not on a SMG steering wheel, as far as know. So, what can you do? When I found this not so original two stage airbag (my car is a one stage) steering wheel on eBay in Germany, I could see that it was originally an SSG steering wheel but it had been altered to look like an SMG by filling in the hole on the downward spokes with resin or glue and then used the cover plate from SMG. After that, they covered it with a carbon film that actually is an immaculate work that you can not put a finger on (no pun intended) and it blends well in with the rest of the steering wheel. The things I like about this steering wheel are; the steering wheel is ever so slightly flattened at the bottom under side and the seams on the upper half are horizontal, instead of just going around the rim, that is a nice professional workmanship and probably not easy to do. Beside the overall look, then this steering wheel has all the functions you can put on one steering wheel inc. changing gears with the "flaps" that actually do not look like any cheep flaps but more like finger size buttons when looked at, head on. I can tell you that it was not cheep, but it did fulfill all my wishes and drain my wallet a little bit.
  3. V_MAX

    #6 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel Contacts

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    These are the carbon contacts that connect the steering clock spring to the leads going to the shifter mechanism in the console. These flex/spring loaded contacts where not in my car, sins it didn't have a heated steering wheel, nor was this spring clock with the two bras contact rings. The picture shows the bracket for the carbon contacts that is behind the steering wheel and in the steering column. You can read more hear; #7 SSG-Circuit Board For The Flaps
  4. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Wishful thinking? This is what I would like to see on my speedo Actually, this is one of two Ohm resistant measurements for one of the steering wheel flap/pad, the up shift gives you a Ohm reading of 1008 Ohm with the resistors on the electrical boards in the flaps. That is why I had to remove the two tiny(2mm) resistors on each circuit board to fully separate the connection to get two clear signal-poles for up and downshift with less than 0.04 Ohm. All bells and whistles worked fully as intended on the steering wheel, that is, both paddles work the same way. When you pull on the flap it shifts into a higher gear and push on the top for downshifting. It was my chose to have it this way but I could easily have made a split, so that one paddle would have a downshift and vice versa. This a modified SSG that looks like SMG wheel with two stage airbag, paddle shift, steering wheel that is fully functional without any red warning lights on a one stage e39 from '97 that was borne/manufactured with one stage air bag steering wheel and no flaps. You can read more about the resistors with picture; #7 SSG-Circuit Board For The Flaps You can read more about two stage wheels vs. one stage with other pictures to.
  5. V_MAX

    #3 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel

    Not a pretty sight but newer the less necessary, to make room for the new clock spring. Before you start drilling, grinding and cutting I would suggest that you wrap as much as you can the steering wheel to avoid small and aluminum flakes and dust flying allover the place. As you can see, then we have to take a little bit of the stem to in three places for the new clock spring. Also it duos not hurt to grind down the two bumps one with a hole in it, (at this stage they have not been flatted out) on the flat base of the steering wheel, other vice it might strife the underside of the clock spring when tuning the wheel.
  6. V_MAX

    #4 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel

    This is how it looks like after preliminary work has been done and the next step is to add the new foundation for the spring clock. I got a hold of a aluminum epoxy "muddy" quite a remarkable stuff to work with. Aluminum epoxy comes in the form of finger thick stick that is two component and all you do is cut of a piece of it and mash it between your fingers, after that it is flexible and easy to form. Now you can apply it to the base stem of the wheel and then press the clock spring over to form it. After that, just let it be until the aluminum epoxy hardens into something that looks like a gray metal aluminum. This clock has two brass rings on it and most likely yours have only black plastic and missing the metal rings. Those two rings are originally used for a a steering wheel that was a built in heating element in the steering wheel. Instead of using these contact rings for heading we use them as two contacts to send appropriate signals to the automatic shifter through two carbon brushes that are mounted in a small hole or loop-fastener behind the clock spring, one for up shift and one for down shift, you can see them hear #6 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel Contacts One thing you should be aware of: it is all-important to mount the clock spring exactly the same as the old one or your tun signal might not come of at the right time, or maybe not at all. You might think that the middle part of the clock spring with the brass pointing down should be straight in the middle pointing up but actually, it should be more like 4° to the right. If you are thinking that you can just put the steering wheel a little bit crooked on column to correct this misalignment with the clock spring, then remember you have to get the car front wheels aligned. It is much easier to simply grind away the aluminum epoxy and start from the scratch.
  7. V_MAX

    #2 SSG/SMG Steering wheel

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This is a two stage steering wheel similar (the current one is missing the flaps) to the one I have in may car, that was manufactured with one stage airbag. If you are going to do do this conversion you need to remove the yellow part out of the steering wheel base to accommodate for the new or old clock spring for the connection. You also need to remove a little of the "stem" to accommodate for the screws that hold the clock spring in place when you have added the aluminum epoxy to form a firm new foundation for the clock. Actually the drawing for the hole could have been a little smaller than I made it.
  8. Hi all, Even though my car is an E63 M6, I thought I'd share my recent experience of replacing the clutch and flywheel after the dreaded clutch judder that eventually effects the S85 engine and SMG box. I know this causes a lot of concern to existing owners and potential owners, so I thought I'd post a relatively good news story. My car is a 2006 E63 M6 and has done a shade over 61k miles. The clutch judder started recently and not having an extended warranty, I was aware that BMW stealers quote between £2.6 - £3k to replace the clutch and flywheel. I should point out that I have a local Indy who is an ex BMW mastertech with nearly 25 years experience. In one form or another, he's been looking after my cars since my 1985 E30 318i in the early 90's. Unfortunately, he was on 2 weeks summer holiday and I knew I had to bite the bullet and use the local stealer to keep me mobile. As predicted, after initial diagnosis, their quote came in at £2,639.15, which included replacing an O2 sensor at £125.70. Although I'm fortunate that I could pay the bill, out of principal, I wouldn't. A quick bit of googling revealed that the flywheel BMW fit is manufactured by LUK and the clutch by Sachs. I'm sure a lot of you know this already, but I guess it's useful information for the thread. A quick look at Euro Car Parts revealed that they stock the LUK flywheel and Valeo clutch kit. I then had a look at GSF car parts, who couldn't compete on price for the flywheel, but showed they stocked a 'premium' clutch kit, which a quick phone call revealed as Sachs. With the additional discount for the recent bank holiday, the total cost for parts was as follows (including delivery and VAT): Flywheel - £ 421.89 Clutch Kit - £ 516.51 Whilst this still seems a lot, in comparison against the stealers original quote for these parts at £ 2,156.34 inc VAT, I'd already saved £1,217.94! I realised that I'd still need a few sundry items, such as a new fork, guide bush and various ball pins, spring clips and fillister bolts etc, but the stealer quoted me a grand total of £30.67 for these, so I wasn't concerned. The next step was the labour time and hourly rate. As my car is over 5 years old, the stealer has a 5+ labour rate, fixed at £65 per hour, so not too bad really. We started negotiations at 7.5 hours and ended up (after much research and negotiation) on 4.5 hours. Total labour cost including VAT was therefore £351.00. Total cost for parts, labour and VAT was £ 1,320.07. Yes, this is a lot of money, but we all know that if you own an M car, you can't run them on a Vauxhall / Ford budget and compared to the original stealer quote, was around half the cost. To put this in perspective, the Service Manager advised me that on the same day, they'd replaced a clutch on a 2011 320d and that came in at £1,600. In summary, don't always be afraid of the stealer, but definitely be very wary of their parts costs! I hope this thread helps another M owner and takes some of the scare away about the costs of owning and running these cars. Thanks for reading
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