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Found 9 results

  1. CYP

    BMW 320d 2007 RPM Shaking

    IMG_1656 2.mov Hi everyone, When I take my foot off the gas pedal while driving on the road in a normal course, the car starts to swing between 1500 and 900 rpm. I cleaned the MAP and MAF sensors, but it has not improved. What could be the reason for this?
  2. Here is an alternative to paying £200+ to BMW to replace your failed IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor.) Many people disconnect their IBS when it fails, and that's fine if your battery is healthy and you use your car daily. But the IBS does a few important things including charging your battery accordingly to its age, and preserving charge when parked for long periods. Here is a step by step guide for diagnosing and replacing your IBS for around £20 instead of £200! If you suspect your IBS has failed (eg your battery is going flat even if it is new) get your error codes read with INPA or similar. This is the code you will see if it has failed, 4477. I think mine failed because water had dripped on it through the rear light cluster gasket, common fault on the E61. BMW updated the sensor at some point during the E60’s life, so you can no longer buy the original one I had. That means you need to buy the new style IBS and a converter loom which together cost over £200 from the dealer! While looking for a used one on eBay I noticed that despite having many different part numbers for different cars including Mini's and other BMW models, all Intelligent Battery Sensors looked fundamentally the same. So I took a punt and bought this one for £20 from an E90 on eBay. Make sure you get the complete set - negative battery cable with IBS, AND the loom. A few days later it arrived, and here it is next to my old one on the left (sorry for the crap photo, it was dark.) Notice that the IBS itself looks different, and also one of the connecting plugs is much bigger on the new one. This is why BMW sell you a converter loom. Here’s a close up of the two sets of plugs next to each other. As you can see one plug is the same on the new loom, only one is different. This made me think that the converter loom was unnecessary, and as it’s only one wire (thick red one) I should just solder on the old plug. This is the label on the new cable, note it mentions several different BMW models including the E90 and E70. It does not say E60, but I was sure it would work as I have seen lots of different ones all with different part numbers but for multiple cars. Just buy one that looks like the one in the photo above and you should be fine. The two plugs chopped off so I can solder the old one (right) on to the new loom. Here’s my new make-shift loom. I put the battery back in, connected the new negative power cable (which is quite fiddly as the nut is behind some trim) and plugged in my new loom. I cleared my error codes, went for a quick drive, read them again and as you can see, no errors! I hope this guide helps other people with the same problem, and saves you some money. I know used parts are always a risk, but at a tenth of the price it will take quite a few failures to be more costly than buying one new sensor!
  3. Morning BMW5, Yesterday as I was leaving work I felt a crunch from some ice on my wheels, then my ABS and Traction Control warning lights both flashed up and my speedo, MPG and mileage counter have all also stopped working - my best guess from a quick skim on the forums is that the wheel speed sensor has gone - although the fuel gauge is also being temperamental. I rang a local independent garage, who I trust, who said it's likely the wire has come loose or the sensor has broken which is a big job to get it out and replaced (something about drilling the sensor out?). He suggested to check the cable and leave it as it may clear itself, otherwise he wont be able to see the car for a week or so. However, I had a look last night and the wire to the sensor is still secured in place as far as I can tell. Without a full diagnostic I cant be sure if the sensor does need replacing, does anyone have any suggestions as to ruling out any other causes before sending the car to have the "big job" done? E39 520i Touring SE.
  4. I have been chasing a couple of fault codes for a few weeks, 3FF0, 4BC2 and 4530 Initially it seemed I had found the source of the issue as a chaffed and damaged Vac hose, between vac accumulator and turbo actuator. With this replaced I had better boost, but still quite weird on off behaviour, where initially throttle wouldn't yield a big surge of power at all, then sudden power, and then tailing off again. I tried un-plugging MAF and there was a slight improvement but not staggering as people described. I checked manifold for cracks in case this was a factor, but non observed. Then I started looking elsewhere. I had noted in torque that the boost gauge seemed to read offset at idle, about 4psi. However at the time I had put this down to torque being torque, and sometimes does odd things with boost, and baro offsets, as I have seen on other vehicles... So I started to look in DIS once I got it working (thanks Jimmy from Cableshack for excellent support) And noted a few MAF related faults. I found that the MAF on my car was genuine Bosch of correct PN, only fitted earlier this year based on the manufacture date. However I decided to change this anyway. No significant improvement.... As a result of changing, I wanted to reset MAF adaptations, however It seems that my car just doesn't want to do this, as in DIS it keeps showing them as 0 for both values. I decided to run the mass flow system test. And the first step threw up this.... Now, this was interesting, since I had not had any errors indicating that at key on the ECU was seeing any issues with the MAP sensor not matching the ECU barometric sensor. Looking at the list of faults codes which exist for the 530D, there should be a couple of different faults which might be flagged if the MAP does not match the ECU baro measurement closely enough.... Anyhow, I subsequently ordered a MAP sensor, and changed it. As soon as I keyed on after changing the sensor, the boost shows as very close to zero at key off and idle as it should, but in addition, I got both fault 4063 and 3F03, both which relate to the charge air pressure sensor plausability, and ambient pressure control . These cleared and have never returned, which is really odd, as it should have been the faulty sensor causing these. The car now performs as it should, no more delay in power, no more odd behaviour if I lift off and re-apply power higher in rev range, just mountains of torque. Its not chopping around the gears any more when using cruise control, and economy has improved. Also the MAF related faults have stopped appearing, so I can only assume the MAF was getting really confused, it was being told that the car was getting 4 psi more boost that it really was, so was expecting more flow than it was seeing. I guess this would explain smoke and loss of power at certain times, and also it must have been cutting boost early thinking it was hitting max boost earlier than it was. Has been a bit of a journey but the car now really has come alive.
  5. AlfaEuropa

    Rear parking Sensor F11

    Howdy peeps One of the parking sensors on our rear bumper had been pushed into the bumper while being washed. It was like this when we viewed the car but rectified by the dealer. Anyone know the easiest way to access the sensor to re-secure it? Cheers
  6. robthehungrymonkey

    Temperature sensors

    Hi guys, Back in the world of BMW ownership! Recently bought an E61 touring, very happy with it. A couple of niggles, the temperature sensor is a bit iffy. It seems to be going up and down all the time, but is often saying it's -40 degrees outside (I live in Warwickshire, not the arctic). This is a bit more annoying as the alarm bell rings every five minutes, which no matter how often I hear that ding, I think I have a serious engine fault! Is this an easy fix? Is it a case of simply replacing the sensor? Would this affect the climate control inside too? That seems a little inconsistent. As always, any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Rob
  7. Hello, I recently got a 2005 525d and whilst I'm impressed with many aspects of the car, the MPG has been pretty terrible. I drive a 6 mile commute to work (50% dual carriageways, the rest is 30mph roads) and no matter how easy I drive I cant get over 19mpg. First thing I did was get the car plugged into INPA and no faults showed up. I then accessed the hidden menu to check the engine temp. I let the engine sit idle for 15 mins and it peaked at 68C. I then drove the car hard for 10 mins and the temperature peaked at 84C. Are these temperature figures right or too low? I read that they should be around 88C - 93C. If the EGR or main temp sensor are faulty, should they have shown up in the diagnostics result? What sort of average mpg should I get for in town driving? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Stu
  8. Should I get one from the stealer or from ECP/GSF? The garage across the road from work say they have issues with wear sensors so like to order from BMW. Never had an issue with ECP sensors myself so thought I'd throw it up here.....
  9. My 1997 528i has started playing up intermittently, as if being starved of fuel for a split second, causing revs to drop and auto box to change gear. It's really frustrating when driving around town, I've added plenty of fuel and the problem still comes back to haunt me. The fuel level on the dashboard appears to be correct and functioning normally. Sometimes, when parked in a car park after a run in to town, when at temperature, the revs will not settle, and it struggles to idle at the normal speed, typically dropping below and revving back up to prevent stalling. After 30 seconds, this will slowly fix itself and again is intermittent. The only error code via dash menu reports D7 which is Fuel Level Sensor 2, I've already replaced the fuel pump a few months ago as part of some preventitive maintenance (having had one fail in the past) and that works just fine, an italian tune up yesterday didn't give me any problems at all. The car has covered 80k miles and the fuel filter was also replaced at the same time. Does anyone know whether the second sensor (passenger side on UK vehicles) if faulty, would cause running issues? Paolo.