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Found 10 results

  1. moto92m

    Creator C110+

    Hello, I have a problem with the creator C110 + diagnostic scanner, a communication error message appears when connected to the car, and when I try to update the program cannot connect to the scanner connected via the USB port. Can anyone help me ? Witam, mam problem z skanerem diagnostycznym creator C110+, przy podłączeniu do auta pojawia się komunikat błąd komunikacji, a przy próbie aktualizacji program nie może połączyć się z skanerem podłączonym przez port USB. Czy ktoś może mi pomoc ?
  2. Ecobasic

    E39 530D manual swap problem

    Hello Guys, I completed the manual swap by doing all the electronical things (flashing manual DDE Software etc), and fitting a manual E-gaspedal. Everything works fine, however in lower rpms 1500-2100 approximately if i go full throttle the car gets some boost and instantly goes off power again even showing on the current consumption dial, then spools up again and loses power again, all until 2150 RPM where everything is fine afterwards and all the power is here. Does anybody have an idea? BR Michael
  3. Hi, I finished the job, wanted to share my knowledge, hope you will benefit from it, its the whole process with all common mistakes and advice what to do and not to do while doing such a job, fixing grinding clicking problem etc, read the description on the 33 min video, i listed everything even my idiot mistake, it will show you complete comparision, waiting for your feedback.
  4. Hello everyone! Sorry to be that guy but this car now makes me want to cry! I had a small hiccup and after replacing a few items, I thought I would reset the adaptives, silly me! The car is a 525i N53 07 and I think its an LCI too? Now I have no throttle, checked the harness, connectors, replaced the throttle and even had the ecu reflash to no luck! Has anyone had a similar issue? And found a fix? Regards Adam
  5. A few times a week (daily use) I am noticing that the Push Button Start intermittently fails the first time I try it, attempts to crank over a little and bails out. Then the second time (after repressing the manual clutch) the cranking will last longer and start the engine. Initially I thought it was because I am too quick to hit the start button before the clutch has gone down far enough or the car's systems have fully woken up or changing gear during the process might hault the cranking (not sure). Normally I have to lift the clutch up and push back down again to allow the Push Button Start to re-arm for a retry. Could be a battery undervolt as systems wake up (but I've had this after putting fuel into a warm car) or may be the clutch pedal sensor is a bit flakey. I'll try pressing the brake instead, hard instinctive habbit to change though. Do "Push Button Start" E60s generally start first time all the time?
  6. Hi All When I get into my e60 BMW 520se before starting the engine I can hear a clicking noise behind (inside) the instrument cluster. The fuel gauge and rev counter don't work when I start the engine, then after some time the problem goes away and the gauges work. HELP. Is this a bad connection behind the cluster or something more sinister ? Thanks
  7. dazh90

    525e No Starter. No spark

    Hi all, I have a 1987 525e (Motronic) which after spending two weeks in America, i come back to my car and she refuse to fire. I've done what i can and im out of ideas so really hoping someone can help! Also, worth mentioning that on the day that i got back and i realised the car refused to fire up i went to the petrol station and got £12 worth of fuel and some carb cleaner to assist a start. SHE STARTED UP! left running fine for 10 minutes but when ignition was switched off she refused to start immediately after (STRANGE, what is going on!?) . Problem/Symptoms; - No spark to any of the plugs apart from a single spark when coil is engaged at Pos3 - I believe im getting fuel as plugs are wet The facts; (strange results shown in RED) - Engine turns over by the key, top of engine moves (in time) with bottom - Brand new distributor cap and rotor arm - Brand new ignition coil - Swapped out CPS with one i had from 520i e28 (same hardwired one facing front harmonic balancer) - Swapped out main fuel relay with one from 520i - Swapped out MAF from 520i (i know it's trivial but, meh) - Checked for 12v heading towards the coil between 15+ and 0. (12v upon pos3, 10v when cranking) - Although coil is new, Resistance across posts all check out fine - Spark plugs are 2 months old - Continuity between both ends of main HT lead (coil tower to distributor) - Battery charged fully externally inside the house - DME socket where relay fits; - Tab30 suppose to have 12v, shows 0v - Tab85 suppose to have 0v, shows 0v - Tab 86 suppose to have 12v, shows 0v - Tab 87 and 87 suppose to both show 12v, shows 12v - Tab 87 and 87 suppose to both show 0v, shows 12v with ignition off - Checked for click from DME relay, it clicks just fine and i get the engine hum Questions that i am asking myself; - If my 520i M20 uses Jetronic fuel injection, and my 525e M20 uses motronic, why do they both have the same hard wired (no clip, needed cutting and soldering) crankshaft position sensors? - Why do i only get one spark when ignition is turned on, but none whilst cranking? - Does p.d towards the coil normalling drop from 12v to 10v when cranking? - Why did she start ONCE but refused to start immediately after? - Is my ECU fried? and if so.... why? only sat for 2 weeks... Any help is very much appreciated!! Regards, Darren (From Brighton)
  8. Hi All, Yesterday I embarked on q uest to find out why my door puddle lights stopped working. I started with fuses and pulled each one I thought might be the problem (going by the symbols on the sticker inside the boot lid) and re-seated them all after finding none of them were blown. A few days I fitted high power LED's in the puddle lamps and were working fine, so I took the passenger side out and re-seated and voila! they are both working now. So left it there, started driving to work and found my driver side window switches and mirror controls are not working. Even the passenger side switch wasnt working and then I started pulling out fises and reseating them and the passenger side now works, but the driver side still not working. I cant see the switches illuminated as they would when the lights are turned on (not sure if they actually do illuminate) but as theyre not, I assume this is because no power is going to that switch? Ive tried searching online, and no joy. Ive also found that fuse number 11 is missing, whcih going by the symbol indicates it is a fan fuse? Is this the radiator fan for the engine? Does anyone know which particular fuse would control the driver side switches? Hoping someone can help me here, advise will be very much appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read this.
  9. Kmerchant

    E39 525tds shaking at idle

    I have 1996 525tds having covered 123000 kms. I've resolved Quite a lot of issues since i bought the car buth this one remains to be solved. The car when cold idles smoothly for about half a minute and then starts shivering at ilde. If the a/c is off then i get shivers every 3 seconds or so. But if the a/c is on (which is always) the car shakes continuously and it is felt through the whole car. It is always only at idle. No shaking when the car is in motion but everytime it idles it shakes violently. Passengers ask what's wrong. My indy says that a new fuel pump would sort that out. What do you suggest? What could be the problem?
  10. Pretty sure they are fitted to the car. When I start the car they do this self levelling thing, when parked up if I turn the steering to the left the lights move as well. But if I turn to the right they don't?? Any ideas?
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