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Found 12 results

  1. Derzo

    Cigarette sockets

    Hello, i have some problem with the cigarette sockets, so a few months ago ive turned on Bluetooth through bimmercode, and ive realised that ive turned off cigarette sockets, and i cant remember how ive done it, fuse is ok, before coding was working now doesn’t have a power, can some one guide me how turn it back? Thx.
  2. Pauls E61

    Loss of drive

    Hi All i need some advice please E61 520D Auto this evening I had to accelerate hard when joining the motorway i lost a lot of drive, accelerating through the gears they seemed to be changing at the correct revs, but the car wasn’t going any faster. Seems I’m ok on a flat road, accelerating up to 45, then it tails off and no more acceleration power/drive. Took a few minutes to get up to 80 parked on a hill at the shop. Took off and could only manage 20mph at 4500 rpm its like how a manual behaves when the clutch is slipping would really appreciate some help thanks
  3. Amsingh187

    535D E61 Turbo issues

    Hi guys, Took my e61 535d to two independent specialists and had two different solutions presented. First one connected a diagnostic and a whole load of faults popped up with regards to DPF/ glow plugs/ air mass/ charge pressure/ exhaust pressure. He then, Took off the engine cover and checked the vac pipes and said they looked bad and that he couldn't see the two rods from the bottom of the turbos moving when revving the engine. Told me to have the pipes replaced first before going down any other route. I do have a 4 star warranty but this will not cover such components like pipes and plugs. Nice chap, didn't charge me a penny for his time and gave me the option of contacting him if I wanted to go ahead. £140 labour plus the pipes which I said I can get at trade price too. Second garage, looked at the pictures I had taken of the diagnostic and said that the plugs replacement and pipes etc would cost me £560 and can get me in next week. Now, I know it may seem that the second garage is trying to take advantage of me but what could the issues be? Obviously I would like to keep as much money in my own pocket. If the vac pipes aren't doing their job then replacing those first would be the most efficient option before going through the warranty company which would want to wriggle out of paying anything?? Anyone else had similar problems or knows which garage to trust? Any help would be appreciated and please forgive me for my naivety. Thanks. Ams.
  4. Romes

    E34 Battery

    Morning guys, I need a quick bit of help / advice please. My E38 750 has a 700CCA battery in it and its supposed to have 850 - 900CCA. I can buy a battery from Halfords that will fit it no problem but my question...... Can I fit the 700CCA battery in my 525 E34? the voltage is the same and she should only take the Amps needed???? Any help would be appreciated
  5. Hi All I'm going to Silverstone in the morning for the F1. However, I've realised that I won't be able to power my 12v coolbox off my car as the 12v sockets in my car do not remain powered once the car has been locked. My car is a 2012 F10 BMW 520d Efficiency Dynamics model. I have 4 x 12v power sockets in my car to the best of my knowledge: - Under passenger glove box - Front cigarette tray - Center console - Boot Does anyone know if there is a way to get a permanent 12v supply to any of these power sockets in this car? Thanks in advance. Neil
  6. Hi All, Yesterday I embarked on q uest to find out why my door puddle lights stopped working. I started with fuses and pulled each one I thought might be the problem (going by the symbols on the sticker inside the boot lid) and re-seated them all after finding none of them were blown. A few days I fitted high power LED's in the puddle lamps and were working fine, so I took the passenger side out and re-seated and voila! they are both working now. So left it there, started driving to work and found my driver side window switches and mirror controls are not working. Even the passenger side switch wasnt working and then I started pulling out fises and reseating them and the passenger side now works, but the driver side still not working. I cant see the switches illuminated as they would when the lights are turned on (not sure if they actually do illuminate) but as theyre not, I assume this is because no power is going to that switch? Ive tried searching online, and no joy. Ive also found that fuse number 11 is missing, whcih going by the symbol indicates it is a fan fuse? Is this the radiator fan for the engine? Does anyone know which particular fuse would control the driver side switches? Hoping someone can help me here, advise will be very much appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read this.
  7. Sorry if I've gone a bit 'New topic' crazy of late, but lots of questions are popping into my head. This next one seems to be a pretty grey area and talked about all over the place, with no conclusions. I've had a look through most of the threads that cover this topic but am still unsure. What are the pros and cons of deleting a rear silencer/muffler only, OR the resonator in the middle of the car only? Mines a 530i. More specifically, it is the sound I am interested in. What I don't want is to sound like a boy racer with a dustbin for an exhaust pipe on a sh1t Vauxhall Nova. I like the complex and sophisticated sound that the i6 makes but would like it louder. I'm not after that soulless blare you get from randomly taking every form of restriction off your exhaust system. Does anyone know how deleting one or the other will make a difference to the sound? The next can of worms is how it will effect power and torque. As usual after trawling though forums there seems to be people who think it will make no difference, and other think it will increase power/troque, and other who think it will decrease power/torque. So two questions in one thread really (this could get messy). So... Has anyone got any videos (without distorted sound from the camera being too close) of their muffler/resonator delete (I've looked at most of the ones on you tube but again inconclusive)..... and/or perhaps some evidence of an increase/decrease in power/torque after an exhaust modification i.e dyno run info. Enjoy this can of worms, but I would be really interested to hear about people's opinions/ experiences.
  8. I_voyager

    530d loss of power not MAF?

    Helllo guys! I'm new to the forum and new owner of e39 530d. I read through forum and didn't found exact match for my problem, so sorry for probably repeating but I'm just confused. So, the bad: - loss of power - it is slower than 1.6 diesel focus, struggle up the hill - it's not a MAF - as that been checked And the good: - engine starts without problems - engine runs smooth - when driven or not it isn't playing on revs or something and there is no power to kick in on some revs like i found in other topics. - it's not smoky- of course without hard kick in accelerator but as far as i konw it's normal for diesels - turbo is running - its not noisy but i can hear when it kick in - or better when acc pedal is released. So I'm asking for help Is just cleaning second fuel pump - under passenger seat - good, or better to just replace it. It need servicing all filters etc. would that help or not - I will do it anyway but what i can expect? vacum hoses are they more accessible form the top or bottom of the car? what else to look for? maybe is there any forum user around Plymouth with computer so we can read diagnose faults? Cheers guys.
  9. Hey Guys! Rough running, idle, and power loss over 2/3 throttle... Hoses had perished in places so fixed that in good old pikey fashon, however, http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E34/Touring/Europe/525i-M50/RHD/M/1996/may/browse/engine/intake_manifold_system/ Item 9, the connector in the link feels loose and will wobble easily, Saw other threads suggesting that plugs may cause running rough... How screwed am I? Is there an exhaustive list of items to replace to eliminate vacuum leaks? TIA Chris
  10. Hey guys im new to the forum and have done plenty of research but never found an exact solution. I recently purchased a 96 e39 525 tds. It runs awesome when cold. But as i complete about an hour of driving, its starts loosing power gradually and comes to a point when even having my foot full on the accelerator it goes up pretty slowly. This happens only upto 1000 rpm. Above that power again kicks in. And also at such times it has a very shaky idle. It creates great problems on redlights as it takes a lot of time to pickup. But above 1 k rpm again power comes in. If i keep the car aside for about 15 mins it again starts normally and drives awesome for about another 45 mins. What could be the problem? Also when this problem occurs it takes a lot of time for the car to start. Lots of cranks. But after i keep it aside for 15 mins it starts in one crank. Low end torque goes for a toss during this phase. Please help me out guys as ive not been able to find a solution since about a month. Regards, K. Merchant
  11. I've been having a few problems recently, and I'm now 95% certain it's the under floor fuel pump (part #16117165590). The only guide I've found online states that all I need to do is remove the fuel lines from each end, unplug the connector and unbolt it from under the car. It all sounds wonderfully simple, but the bit that confuses me is - what is to stop all the diesel from syphoning out of the tank onto my driveway? Perhaps the line can only drain as far as the next pump? Does anyone know of a better guide? Background, for those with similar issues: Last week, after a 30 minute motorway drive, my car failed to warmstart outside my house. It was fine after ~45 mins. Since then it has been seriously down on power, I would guess about 50bhp. 70mph is a struggle, and motorway hills are foot to the floor, 60mph. A bit of online reading narrowed the problems down to cam angle sensor, injectors, in line fuel pump or maf. Last night, I hit the same warm start problem. I turned off the HVAC and radio so I could listen, and to save the battery. Each time, I turned the key to II, waited and then tried to start the car. After 30 minutes, the car started - the difference this time was that when the key was at II, there was a sound from below the passenger seat, similar to the air suspension pump, but louder. My guess is, the heavily worn pump gets hot and seizes when stopped.
  12. johncornwallcar

    Turbo or not?

    My 530D touring (114k) has been virtually faultless until about 14 months ago when the turbo blew, big time, causing oil fire I got a reman unit and had it fitted by my local garage, all good except that it whistled a lot at low revs, power delivery and consumption all fine with no smoke. after 7- 8k however Im getting intermiitent power problems, mostly on motorways, put foot down at say 60mmph and response is zero, if it s a hill it will slow and the revs will gradually decrease. After a few miles and a bit of juddering normal service will kick in again. the problem might not occur for up 200 miles but at other times can be more frequent. Garage put it on diagnostics for me and it came up with P1E30, Boost Control or Boost Control Valve. Phoned Turbo supplier ( Essex Turbos) they say most likely cause is carbon build up on the vanes, but I cant understand this as I had the oil breather changed and the In Intercooler cleaned when the new turbo was fitted. Im no expert to say the least but im wondering if; - An unrelated problem is present and the Turbo fault code hasnt cleared from the previous issue - The boost Control Valve/sensor is faulty - There is a problem with the replacement turbo (I hope not as the guranttee has expired) Also I dont know whether to to take it to my local garage again or whether I need a BMW specialist workshop to have a look at it. Bearing in mind its a 10 year old car which is no worth a fortune Would welcome any thougts