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Found 3 results

  1. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    The header is a bit misleading sins the hose clamps are missing. I put them on later and as a matter of fact, two on each end to make the hoses more stable and less likely to pop out of the fittings. If you look at the picture KAPOW! Fix? and Oil Cap Adapter and Hoses you see what I am referring to. With the entire engine tuning modifications the inevitable core/oil heat would build up in the engine, simply because there is more horsepower to cool down. You can read about what I have altered and change within the engine with other pictures. When the core heat in the engine rises the heat in the engine compartment rises to, and that leads to amongst other things a warmer intake manifold, ergo, that translates to warmer air when it reaches the head intake itself. Cold air is more dense, therefore we can add more fuel and add a good tuning to the mixture that will hopefully translates to more horsepower and who douse not need more power. The modifications where relatively simple and straightforward and not that complicated until it exploded in my face "KAPOW! Blown Main Artery, She Lost 2 Gallon of Oil In No Time! at all!@#/$*" I bought the 13 row oil cooler from a seller on eBay. The hoses had to be shortened a bit to be fitted snugly. Two holes "Oil Cooler Hoses Route" had to be made in the bracket that hold the water radiator for the new oil hoses. The oil cap adapter was bought separately from another seller "Oil Cap Adapter" . You should be on your toes when choosing the oil cap, sins there are some caps for sale, that are missing a vital part that goes into the hole at the bottom of the oil filter housing/canister. If this hole at the bottom is not closed the engine will not reach a full oil pressure. This hole at the bottom can have two purposes as far as I know, one is; when you take original cap of, the oil is drained through that hole and the other hole at the bottom to prevent oil spill when you remove the oil filter from the canister/housing and the second reason is; if you have a pin with two rubber seals at the end, then the middle pin is hollow and it has the capability to bypass oil through it and come out at the top of the inside of the cap, in case of over pressure in the oil system. As far as I know, then none of these aftermarket caps have the cylindrical mesh that goes inside the filter itself and some of the caps use the inside part of the original cap, in conjunction with the aftermarket one. If you shorten the hoses, remember to keep as much constant inward pressure on the hose as you possibly can, while tightening the nut it self. Still, I'm not 100% secure with this setup and need to find a good solution to prevent the hoses to come loos under pressure. Word of warning, these fittings are not so safe if you do not take time and care My issues with the fresh intake-air heat in the intake manifold and the engine was, that it reached 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f air temp. measured inside the manifold, at standstill and idling, with outside temperature at 20°c/68°f. To tackle this heat buildup I had two simple choices. Ether more cold air from the outside or external oil cooler. I opted for both solutions and the results where that the core heat (mostly the heat of the oil) of the engine dropped from 103°c to 93°c/217°f to199°f, ruffly10% lower and air temp inside the manifold from 62°c. down to 43°c./144°f down to 109°f., or 31%. Now, that might not seem a lot, but then this is measured at standstill and idling. When driving the numbers get much better. Sins writing this in September 2021 I have deleted the heat "Deletion Of The Throttle Body Heater" that goes into the throttle housing, with even better results regarding the manifold heat, just by deleting the throttle body heater. After the delete/bypass of the throttle body heater the intake temperature fell drastically down from 43°c./109°f down to 24°c/76°f at standstill and idling with ambient temp. at 12°c/54°f, that is an additional heat reduction of approximately 44%. without taking intro consideration the difference in the ambient temperature of 8°c/46°f. at standstill and idling. This heat reduction, gives me much more elbow room to tune the A/F ratio and timing. You can read more about the throttle body heat with "Deletion Of The Throttle Body Heater". All in all, heat reduction inside the manifold went from 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f down to 24°c/76°f that is a reduction of 61 - 65% from the start, with all the modifications regarding manifold temperature reduction. Summa summarium; Engine heat doped down by 10% measured at standstill and idling. Air inside the manifold doped by 61 - 65% measured at standstill and idling. The original air intake plastic tunnel retrieved the intake air all the way in front of the water radiator from the left middle of the front bracket and actually, partly sucking air from the inside of the engine compartment, where there is a lot of thin warm air. Take a look at picture; "Befor, Modifications To Fresh Air Intake" As you can see, I cut the intake "spout" over, to enable more cold air to flow more freely to the air filter box intake, in conjunction with an air filter box that has an additional intake from the inner side of the wing that leads to the wheel well - more explanations hear; Resonant/Air Restriction/Venturi Effect? . I am pleased with these results for now, although I'm dabbling with the idea of a larger oil cooler (no, there is no need for larger cooler). Now I can continue with the fine tuning of the partial bin. files, sins all the parameters have changed due to overall, a cooler engine and colder air intake. After the installation I opted for painting the cooler in mat black heat resistant paint.
  2. V_MAX

    KAPOW! Fix?

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This is the the best I could come up with, as remedy to halter or prevent the hoses from popping of "KAPOW! Blown Main Artery, She Lost 2 Gallon of Oil In No Time! at all!@#/$* " is simply by connecting the two of them together with two hose clamps instead of one, over some fabric tape. Hopefully this way the oil hoses supplement each other but is it not good enough ? or adequate for me to feel 100% safe. I am still scared sh.....less that she blows on me again at the worst place in the traffic, or at 7000rpm. but so far it has stood the test. Update after two months; so far they have held up to 7000rpm. knock! on wood. I wish the red oil can warning light was much bigger than it is, in the instrument cluster.
  3. V_MAX

    Oil Cooler Hoses Route

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    The oil hoses fit perfectly in front of the water radiator but you have to drill two holes in the radiator bracket to thread the hoses and come out of the air intake hole. This is probably the easiest way to route the lines but at the cost of loosing the original air intake for the engine. Then again, it is not that bad sins you actually can shorten the air intake snout and thereby get cold fresh air in. The only "drawback" is that at full throttle you definitely can hear the engine breath with some snorkeling ruff sound. The first time I heard this sound I thought something was terribly wrong, but it is quite normal with the intake shortened and the air baffle removed from the air intake box itself. You can read more about this transition with other related pictures like; "Oil Cap Adapter"
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