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Found 6 results

  1. OK, so the car is an early, as in late 2004, M54B25 petrol powered flavour. The last week has seen us towing the tin tent to west Wales and back and despite all my previous complaints about the car's towing performance it did a remarkably good job. That said, there were occasions where it did have to work quite hard. On the way to Pembrokeshire there were a couple of occasions where something hot could obviously be smelled from within the cabin. This hot/burning smell now seems to be a commonplace occurrence even without the caravan attached. On the way home yesterday I had to pull into the services at Carmarthen for a much needed biological break and while waiting in traffic it was smelling quite strongly and there was visible smoke coming from the grille and under the front of the bonnet - not plumes of smoke but enough to be noticeable. After we pulled in I popped the bonnet open and the smoke seemed to be coming from the right side of the engine towards the bottom and rear of the block, well under the exhaust manifolds (not the rocker cover leaking oil onto the manifold heat shield as I thought). I couldn't see much down there but it seems to be somewhere under the UJ for the steering column. So, question, what's down there that could be leaking oil and what would be hot enough to cause it to burn off and cause the smell and the smoke? That is assuming it is engine oil and not something else. I know the sump gasket could do with replacing but would the oil burn off immediately from that part of the engine? Honestly don't know the answer to that one! Before we left Carmarthen I plugged my scan tool in for the remainder of the journey home so I could keep an eye on temps; neither the gearbox or engine oil temps reached anything that concerned me - both were hovering in the early 90s even when it was working hard uphill. The damn thing pulled like a train for the most part, though, which was surprising as it normally struggles towing the caravan - I've discussed it briefly in another topic and it seems that this new E10 petrol malarkey might have had a positive side effect! Anyway, that's by the by. Thanks in advance.
  2. So I'm in New Zealand but Im converting a UK import 1983 525i from a (very slow) M30B25 to a (very smooth) M54B30. All the hard bits like engine mounts and electrics and remapping has all gone to my carefully laid plans. What I didn't expect was the fiasco that is the manual version pedals. I initially bought a complete setup but then I realised (thanks to my mechanic) that LHD and RHD are different pedal setups. Ok that was my bad. Then we found that there are two versions (early and later) of the E28 pedal setups, so I had to buy the hyper-expensive chassis mounted master cylinder. Ok.. so now just get the pedals right? Checked everywhere in NZ, rang BMW who told me half the stuff is NLA and I was SOL.. Found places on online to order who then contacted me to say they also cannot source the one fairly major part I'm missing: the brake pedal. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E28/Europe/525i-M30/R-M/browse/pedals/pedals_stop_light_switch_2/ Part #7 35211152013 Im basically going down the list of anyone selling or breaking RHD E28's, anywhere in the world to find... whats essentially a metal stick. Its just a pedal, of all things to be held up on, this wasnt one I thought of! Anyone got any ideas or one to sell me? TL'DR: I need an e28 early model manual brake pedal. A complete manual pedal setup would also be an option.
  3. Hi. My M54 is actually in an E46 330i 2003 but I'm really struggling for info... I think the crankshaft pulley / vibration damper has failed or is at least on ots way out. It has a fairly bad wobble on it at idle as i hope you can see on the video - or is this normal? Symptoms are heavy vibs through steering wheel seat and floor and will usually go away after restarting or a speed bump! I've removed AC belt and Viscous fan and 25 miles or so without it happening again. I would have had a new one on there by now if it wasn't for a) a lack of info on the net for the job and b) the holding bolt being at 400Nm scary! Only found one write up and he had engine out and made 2m scaffolding to undo it. Then there's locking the crank... Any good advice? 90k 330i that had beem poorly servuced and maintained prior to me. Had just gased the AC up 2 days before (hadn't worked since i got it) and thinking this extra new load has been the straw that broke the proverbial. Both times the vibs have started its been when steering fairly hard (junctions) which lead me to think PAS pump but then I saw the wobble. PAS pump had 1-2mm end float. All other pulleys tensioners idlers etc feel OK. 20190730_154541.mp4
  4. Hi, I'm having problems with my e39 530i. Have had it plugged in and told there could be a fault with the mass air flow meter. My current one is only a couple of years old, so I'm just looking for a good, working second hand unit ideally. Also after a good used disa valve too as i have concerns about that being an issue too. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
  5. The Spooner

    Longer to start when hot

    Chaps, I've recently noticed that, although my car starts perfectly when cold, It's sometimes take 2 seconds of cranking when hot to fire. If it's hot and I switch off and back on, it fires pretty much instantly. If left for 30 minutes/1 hour or so it will take a little longer. It does need a thermostat (wahler item on order), but I'm sure I read somewhere this issue could be a coolant temp sender? If it is, is this a straightforward enough job? Thanks as always!
  6. Hi all, not posted for ages, guess the car's been like clockwork so nothing to worry about! I went to to top up the washer fluid today and saw this 'fling' on the air box. My first inclination was it's dried coolant which has been flung off aux the drive belt? Any thoughts?... (The car has a new thermostat, housing and Behr rad a couple of years ago, replaced as a precaution) On an unrelated matter I have a very oily pipe which comes out the bottom of the PAS reservoir. It's been like it since I had the car in 2009 at c.65k miles (it's on 104k now). Is this a common fail point? It's wet all the way down to where it joins the rad assembly: Any thoughts or comments appreciated.
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