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Found 5 results

  1. So I'm in New Zealand but Im converting a UK import 1983 525i from a (very slow) M30B25 to a (very smooth) M54B30. All the hard bits like engine mounts and electrics and remapping has all gone to my carefully laid plans. What I didn't expect was the fiasco that is the manual version pedals. I initially bought a complete setup but then I realised (thanks to my mechanic) that LHD and RHD are different pedal setups. Ok that was my bad. Then we found that there are two versions (early and later) of the E28 pedal setups, so I had to buy the hyper-expensive chassis mounted master cylinder. Ok.. so now just get the pedals right? Checked everywhere in NZ, rang BMW who told me half the stuff is NLA and I was SOL.. Found places on online to order who then contacted me to say they also cannot source the one fairly major part I'm missing: the brake pedal. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E28/Europe/525i-M30/R-M/browse/pedals/pedals_stop_light_switch_2/ Part #7 35211152013 Im basically going down the list of anyone selling or breaking RHD E28's, anywhere in the world to find... whats essentially a metal stick. Its just a pedal, of all things to be held up on, this wasnt one I thought of! Anyone got any ideas or one to sell me? TL'DR: I need an e28 early model manual brake pedal. A complete manual pedal setup would also be an option.
  2. Mister_Fatty

    E28 Bmw UK Turbo (7).png

    Been under the knife for a while, here's an old snap of My e28 when it was running.
  3. For sale is a used rubber boot that sits between air flow meter and intake manifold. Genuine BMW part number 13 54 1 722 847 - old part number 13541708878. Will fit M30 engined e34 5 series, e32 7 series and e24 6 series. It's in good used condition with just a small crack where the Idle Control Valve sits. Removed from my own 1990 e32 735i. Price is £15 including P&P or collection in person from New Milton Hampshire at a discounted price. Please check my other items for sale as I'm having a garage clear out.
  4. Hey all, So my eta 525e AUTO still refuses to start (from my previous threads). Changed almost all the ignition components, distributor cap, ECU, relays, sensors, etc etc. I still do not have any spark to the plugs hence a healthy turn over but no idle. So, i finally had a look into the bell housing where both the Speed sensor, and the Reference sensor are positioned. Because this was new to me when i first had the problem, i'm going to give as much detail as possible with the hope someone may stumble upon this thread in the future. The Speed and Reference sensors push into the bell housing of the gearbox between the torque converter and the flywheel/ring gear. They are both side by side on the nearside of the car, behind the airbox. They are both connected to the engine harness and these connectors can be accessed by removing the airbox and can be seen attached to the block side by side. Grey connector plugs into the sensor pushed into hole B and the black connector connectors to sensor pushed into hole D. Both sensors are the same part number (12141710668) and are interchangeable but you can not get the connectors confused as they must go to the correct sensor relative to the hole identified by B and D. This is what i can see when i look into the reference sensor hole and a i believe my trigger pin has snapped because everything else has been changed and i get quite funky results when the engine is turned over and a AC Volts are measured across the sensor. See Duncan's amazing guide on how to check this if you do not know already below. MASSIVE thanks to Duncan for this, has helped me and tonnes of other people. So the sensor that i discovered was faulty was the reference sensor, which goes into the hole closest to the road. The lowest hole. This sensor was absolutely shot, it had no resistance so was not detecting anything. I changed it for a working new one which i can confirm works as it was tested in a university lab using an oscilloscope. Correct resistance and AC sine wave replicated by a spinning neodymium magnet. This has not solved my issue so this is what i see when i look into the hole. I need help and peoples experienced opinion on this as its the first time i'm investigating it: Now analysing this photo, reveals to me.... this does not look right. Although it does not look aggressively snapped, it does not look long enough!? The only angle i could take the photo forces it to be taken bias to the front of the engine so you can even see the ring gear. If you look at it from the angle the sensor would read, you can barely see the pin! I've drawn out roughly what you would see if you looked at it head on.. So, does everyone agree that this does not look right? Has my pin snapped or is this normal? As the flywheel rotates, it will not swipe across the sensors face/tip. Also, an interesting observation i made of the old, faulty sensor backs up the theory that the pin has snapped. The old sensor has swollen out creating a dome to its face (interesting?...). There are also scrape marks on its face and a dent to suggest its been grinding against something. Wondering if anyone know about this, if they have changed a flywheel on these cars. As the engine rotates and you pass the trigger pin on the flywheel, you periodically come across large tabs of the flywheel that pass by the sensor which are NOT trigger pins. They are just large areas of the flywheel that match the length of the trigger pin. These have long scratches on them like the rust of the wheel has been removed. Long lines of exposed fresh metal as if the sensors swollen tip has made them. So, that is where i am at currently. What do people think? Is this enough to pull the transmission out and replace the flywheel? Has the trigger pin snapped off? Is this normal what i am showing and if so, where would my next area of investigation be? Is changing both sensors enough to move on and look elsewhere? ALL help and opinions are immensely appreciated, i really am stuck. I also hope some of this information will inspire someone else with the same problem and help them repair their own fault!! Kindest regards, Darren - From Brighton, UK
  5. Hello all, I've acquired a 1988 535i Manual with 54k miles and (not too much rust) The car runs well and had a new clutch and radiator put in 2005. It had been driven a few hundred miles since then. A friend of mine is a mechanic and is willing to help out with sorting out a few things before winter starts -however, he is not familiar with older BMWs and their quirks ( neither am I for that matter) . Last MOT had two advisories 1. Fuel pipes corroded 2. Brake pipes slight corrosion. There is a whiff of petrol under the bonnet and under the fuel tank. Not sure what the part numbers are for the fuel pipes and fuel hoses (in the engine bay). Some of the jobs I have been thinking of 1. Change all fluids and filters. 2. Replace Banjo bolts with new style ones. 3. Replace current 3.45 open diff with a 3.46 or 3.07 LSD 4. Replace fuel lines / pipes and vaccum hoses. 5. Fit an alarm ( the car does not have any alarm at the moment). 6. Get the underbody rust proofed professionally. The car is in reasonable condition for its age and I just want to keep it like that and enjoy driving it - Your help and advice in suggesting and prioritising tasks and mods to keep it in gwo will be much appreciated. I have attached a picture of the old girl. Many Thanks in advance Tom
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