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Found 5 results

  1. Hey all, So my eta 525e AUTO still refuses to start (from my previous threads). Changed almost all the ignition components, distributor cap, ECU, relays, sensors, etc etc. I still do not have any spark to the plugs hence a healthy turn over but no idle. So, i finally had a look into the bell housing where both the Speed sensor, and the Reference sensor are positioned. Because this was new to me when i first had the problem, i'm going to give as much detail as possible with the hope someone may stumble upon this thread in the future. The Speed and Reference sensors push into the bell housing of the gearbox between the torque converter and the flywheel/ring gear. They are both side by side on the nearside of the car, behind the airbox. They are both connected to the engine harness and these connectors can be accessed by removing the airbox and can be seen attached to the block side by side. Grey connector plugs into the sensor pushed into hole B and the black connector connectors to sensor pushed into hole D. Both sensors are the same part number (12141710668) and are interchangeable but you can not get the connectors confused as they must go to the correct sensor relative to the hole identified by B and D. This is what i can see when i look into the reference sensor hole and a i believe my trigger pin has snapped because everything else has been changed and i get quite funky results when the engine is turned over and a AC Volts are measured across the sensor. See Duncan's amazing guide on how to check this if you do not know already below. MASSIVE thanks to Duncan for this, has helped me and tonnes of other people. So the sensor that i discovered was faulty was the reference sensor, which goes into the hole closest to the road. The lowest hole. This sensor was absolutely shot, it had no resistance so was not detecting anything. I changed it for a working new one which i can confirm works as it was tested in a university lab using an oscilloscope. Correct resistance and AC sine wave replicated by a spinning neodymium magnet. This has not solved my issue so this is what i see when i look into the hole. I need help and peoples experienced opinion on this as its the first time i'm investigating it: Now analysing this photo, reveals to me.... this does not look right. Although it does not look aggressively snapped, it does not look long enough!? The only angle i could take the photo forces it to be taken bias to the front of the engine so you can even see the ring gear. If you look at it from the angle the sensor would read, you can barely see the pin! I've drawn out roughly what you would see if you looked at it head on.. So, does everyone agree that this does not look right? Has my pin snapped or is this normal? As the flywheel rotates, it will not swipe across the sensors face/tip. Also, an interesting observation i made of the old, faulty sensor backs up the theory that the pin has snapped. The old sensor has swollen out creating a dome to its face (interesting?...). There are also scrape marks on its face and a dent to suggest its been grinding against something. Wondering if anyone know about this, if they have changed a flywheel on these cars. As the engine rotates and you pass the trigger pin on the flywheel, you periodically come across large tabs of the flywheel that pass by the sensor which are NOT trigger pins. They are just large areas of the flywheel that match the length of the trigger pin. These have long scratches on them like the rust of the wheel has been removed. Long lines of exposed fresh metal as if the sensors swollen tip has made them. So, that is where i am at currently. What do people think? Is this enough to pull the transmission out and replace the flywheel? Has the trigger pin snapped off? Is this normal what i am showing and if so, where would my next area of investigation be? Is changing both sensors enough to move on and look elsewhere? ALL help and opinions are immensely appreciated, i really am stuck. I also hope some of this information will inspire someone else with the same problem and help them repair their own fault!! Kindest regards, Darren - From Brighton, UK
  2. harry_mason

    Buzzing noise from DISA valve

    Is it normal for the DISA valve to make a buzzing noise after I switch off the engine or open one of the doors with the engine off? The car is a '04 520i.
  3. Hello gents I have a 2009 530i xDrive it's a sweet car! Love it, it's very easy and fan to drive. I've done so far 113.000 km with it, the consumption is pretty low (~9.7 lit/100km) and it has the N53 engine. The past month when I start the engine in the morning the engine vibrates and makes a sound like it's working with 4 or 5 cylinders! When the temp rises the engine behaves as it should be. Went to the dealership and they replaced the coils on all cylinders (cost 470€). They guys told me the only faults they see were from the coils and the catalysator! The next morning again the same issue, I give them a call and they started saying about replacing the calysators! The cost they gave me was somewhere at 4500€! Well I did a search on the web and looks like it's a very common issue on all petrol engined BMWs! I spoke with 3 of my clients all have the same problem at some point, 2 have 320i and the other one a 550i! I didn't see a single post about the Catalysators and certainly I don't want to pay that much! Does anyone have a solution to this issue? I'd appreciate any help. I did a search here and didn't see anything similar. George
  4. Hey Guys! Rough running, idle, and power loss over 2/3 throttle... Hoses had perished in places so fixed that in good old pikey fashon, however, http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E34/Touring/Europe/525i-M50/RHD/M/1996/may/browse/engine/intake_manifold_system/ Item 9, the connector in the link feels loose and will wobble easily, Saw other threads suggesting that plugs may cause running rough... How screwed am I? Is there an exhaustive list of items to replace to eliminate vacuum leaks? TIA Chris
  5. Kmerchant

    E39 525tds shaking at idle

    I have 1996 525tds having covered 123000 kms. I've resolved Quite a lot of issues since i bought the car buth this one remains to be solved. The car when cold idles smoothly for about half a minute and then starts shivering at ilde. If the a/c is off then i get shivers every 3 seconds or so. But if the a/c is on (which is always) the car shakes continuously and it is felt through the whole car. It is always only at idle. No shaking when the car is in motion but everytime it idles it shakes violently. Passengers ask what's wrong. My indy says that a new fuel pump would sort that out. What do you suggest? What could be the problem?