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Garage

Found 3 results

  1. Here is an alternative to paying £200+ to BMW to replace your failed IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor.) Many people disconnect their IBS when it fails, and that's fine if your battery is healthy and you use your car daily. But the IBS does a few important things including charging your battery accordingly to its age, and preserving charge when parked for long periods. Here is a step by step guide for diagnosing and replacing your IBS for around £20 instead of £200! If you suspect your IBS has failed (eg your battery is going flat even if it is new) get your error codes read with INPA or similar. This is the code you will see if it has failed, 4477. I think mine failed because water had dripped on it through the rear light cluster gasket, common fault on the E61. BMW updated the sensor at some point during the E60’s life, so you can no longer buy the original one I had. That means you need to buy the new style IBS and a converter loom which together cost over £200 from the dealer! While looking for a used one on eBay I noticed that despite having many different part numbers for different cars including Mini's and other BMW models, all Intelligent Battery Sensors looked fundamentally the same. So I took a punt and bought this one for £20 from an E90 on eBay. Make sure you get the complete set - negative battery cable with IBS, AND the loom. A few days later it arrived, and here it is next to my old one on the left (sorry for the crap photo, it was dark.) Notice that the IBS itself looks different, and also one of the connecting plugs is much bigger on the new one. This is why BMW sell you a converter loom. Here’s a close up of the two sets of plugs next to each other. As you can see one plug is the same on the new loom, only one is different. This made me think that the converter loom was unnecessary, and as it’s only one wire (thick red one) I should just solder on the old plug. This is the label on the new cable, note it mentions several different BMW models including the E90 and E70. It does not say E60, but I was sure it would work as I have seen lots of different ones all with different part numbers but for multiple cars. Just buy one that looks like the one in the photo above and you should be fine. The two plugs chopped off so I can solder the old one (right) on to the new loom. Here’s my new make-shift loom. I put the battery back in, connected the new negative power cable (which is quite fiddly as the nut is behind some trim) and plugged in my new loom. I cleared my error codes, went for a quick drive, read them again and as you can see, no errors! I hope this guide helps other people with the same problem, and saves you some money. I know used parts are always a risk, but at a tenth of the price it will take quite a few failures to be more costly than buying one new sensor!
  2. Hi folks Longish post unfortunately I have had my 2008 520d Touring for approx 4 weeks, but only had operational for a few days of that due to various errors, which I now think maybe erroneous. So far it’s had approx £1000 (DPF, EGR valve, glow plugs, glow plug relay and boost control valve) spent on it, and still not running properly. One day it’s ok, the next it’s not running well. On both occasions it showed error codes relatiNg to the EGR, even after it was replaced. But the garage verified it was cycling when the ignition is switched on. So I got hold of Ista to try and work out what was going on. It shows different errors each time I run it. I saw elsewhere the importance of having the correct battery fitted. When I checked the cars ecu shows it’s set for 80Ah AGM, and doesn’t show any changes. But in the boot is a std Halfords battery but it’s 95Ah. It looks fairly new though. My question is : Do I replace the battery with an 80Ah AGM type? Or Try and update/code the current battery in to the cars ECU? In the hope that the car will operate consistently Tia Mark
  3. Abbadon

    Battery and IBS

    So, I have my IBS disconnected, as it was preventing car from sleeping correctly. If I fit a new battery, does the IBS being out of play affect my choices? The battery currently in car is a Lead acid, and its a bit smaller than I think it should be ( its 90ah 800 CCA rather than the advised 110ah 900CCA ). I don't know if the lead acid in there is coded correctly. If you were to fit and AGM to the car, would having IBS disconnected make coding/registering the car more difficult/problematic? Would like to pick up new battery after work today (finishing at 1pm ish)
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