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Found 9 results

  1. I have recently traced what I think is probably causing my battery drain to fuse 56 in the boot of my touring which is one of the navigation fuses. I thought could just pull the fuse to stop the drain as I never use the sat nav anyway but its had some other consequences. When I pull the fuse the instrument cluster doesn't show the blinking green lights when i use the indicators, or the blue light when I flash high beam. These lights are still working on the outside of the car, i've just got no indication that they're working from inside the car. Also my reversing lights do not work. These problems all go away once the fuse is plugged back in. I wouldn't have thought that fuse would affect the lights. Those systems are all on the I-bus but can't see how that shoud happen. I thought I would check the fuse terminals and for fuse 56 I get 13V the live side and 0.5V on the other side. All the other fuses I tried have 13V and 0V. Could this 0.5V be the cause of all the problems and if so how do I go about resolving it. Any advice much appreciated.
  2. Hi, As per my other post I’m back in a 5 Series after a long absence. I’ve been cleaning the car and going through it in an effort to understand all the bits and pieces. I have a few queries, I’m hoping to get some help with. 1) The car had an old phone cradle in the Armrest compartment. I have removed most of this but would like to pull the fuse for it before I tuck the wires away. I looked on the diagram in the trunk and it refers to fuses 18 & 37. I looked in the glovebox and found there is no number 37 so pulled fuse 18. Something inside the car stopped running and I couldn’t start it, I put it back in and all was well, just had to reset the clock. So I’m looking for how to isolate the power. 2) When I open the trunk, there is a buzzing from inside the lid itself. If I close the lid slightly this sound stops. I can’t find any reference to this in the handbook. I would really appreciate some advice with the above.
  3. Hi all Perhaps I am doing something wrong so I will seek advice from people with more knowledge. I fitted a dash-cam to my 2004 e60 530d and concealed the wire via the roof and door pillar trim so I could get to the fusebox behind the glovebox. That was easy but then I couldn't find a fuse connection which would only supply power with the ignition on. With the ignition off I took a multi-meter and checked the voltages; they were all positive I guess it is not the end of the world but then I occasionally forget to remove the dash-cam and if I get the high battery discharge warning. Yes. I should be more mindful and remove it but is there a fuse connection which should be "ignition on" only? Sorry for such a boring topic but I would like to get this sorted if possible Thanks in advance Changy
  4. rivershill

    Help Please

    I have a 535i MSport with a retailer fitted electric towing hitch. I blew the O/S lighting circuit with a short on my caravan. Does anyone know where the fuse is? My local agent who fitted the hitch don't know!!!!
  5. Can anybody help me decipher which of these symbols is the fuse for the auto dim mirror? Not sure why they cant just have a written description!!
  6. Hello all. Much appreciate your reading this, and really hope someone can spread some knowledge/ideas. Sorry for the lengthy explanation, but it may be of relevance. I own an 05 plate E60 530d. Never had any issues until now.... I did a long journey from Cornwall to Bath to visit family, then went on to a wedding in Bristol. Car never faltered. Wentvto start car less than 10 minutes after arriving in Bristol and idrive flashed up several faults: Control systems! Drive moderately Cruise control! Fuel pump fault! Drive moderately First thing I did was to check fuses, and noticed that the fuel pump fuse had blown. I replaced This, but as soon as the ignition was turned on it blew again (without key in ignition). I have unplugged the connection at the fuel pump under the rear seat, removed what I believe is the fuel pump relay (above battery, next to fuses) and removed the DDE relay under bonnet. Despite doing the above the fuse still blows as soon as it is put in (without key in ignition) Please help!! Cheers
  7. BMW.Enthusiastic

    LIVE FUSE on a 520D

    Hi, I'd like to install a dash cam and I want to use one of those Power Magic Pro devices to run the camera 24/7. This device needs to be connected to a live fuse, that will never turn off, hence will record non-stop. Does anyone know which fuse would be constantly live? And also, I'm planning in using an add-a-fuse from Halfords to add the wire from the Power Magic Pro to that fuse. Would anyone have any recommendation? Any help, would be really much appreciated. Thank you so much
  8. Hi All, Yesterday I embarked on q uest to find out why my door puddle lights stopped working. I started with fuses and pulled each one I thought might be the problem (going by the symbols on the sticker inside the boot lid) and re-seated them all after finding none of them were blown. A few days I fitted high power LED's in the puddle lamps and were working fine, so I took the passenger side out and re-seated and voila! they are both working now. So left it there, started driving to work and found my driver side window switches and mirror controls are not working. Even the passenger side switch wasnt working and then I started pulling out fises and reseating them and the passenger side now works, but the driver side still not working. I cant see the switches illuminated as they would when the lights are turned on (not sure if they actually do illuminate) but as theyre not, I assume this is because no power is going to that switch? Ive tried searching online, and no joy. Ive also found that fuse number 11 is missing, whcih going by the symbol indicates it is a fan fuse? Is this the radiator fan for the engine? Does anyone know which particular fuse would control the driver side switches? Hoping someone can help me here, advise will be very much appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read this.
  9. Let's do this properly. I've been suffering with this problem for a while. Generally when it won't start, charge the battery or jump it and off we go. It never normally has this problem if it's been driven regularly. However everything changed today. Normally if it's having a moment then the dash lights up, turn the key and nothing or just the one click. My other half had to use it this morning, went down wouldn't start. Got the call, she got on a bus and I put the car on charge. 3 hrs later go to see what's happening and nothing. Put some leads to another battery in the garage and off we go. Now I've generally thought it was a battery problem, so I changed it about 5 days ago. This battery is good holds its charge etc but something even more weird happens. Now absolutely nothing. Turn the key all the lights go out the indicator by the gear stick flickers and the battery and seatbelt lights are all that's there. Once again clamp it to the spare and all ok. Another bizarre thing is the clock comes back with a time approx 45 mins earlier. This has happened twice today. It's been suggested that it's a intermittent discharge. When the car was asleep an amp meter was attached and this suggested a drain varying between 0.4-0.8. The alternator creates just under 13 v when it's running. If it's a new alternator then so be it, but if it's not and just a relay....... I don't know really what to do, I could just give it to a garage, pay a mint, just to find its a fuse. Modern cars are a bit above me I'm from an age when you could lift the engine out with your hand, take it apart and all back in the car running in an afternoon! Any help would be appreciated as I don't know where to start.
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