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Found 3 results

  1. Hey all, So my eta 525e AUTO still refuses to start (from my previous threads). Changed almost all the ignition components, distributor cap, ECU, relays, sensors, etc etc. I still do not have any spark to the plugs hence a healthy turn over but no idle. So, i finally had a look into the bell housing where both the Speed sensor, and the Reference sensor are positioned. Because this was new to me when i first had the problem, i'm going to give as much detail as possible with the hope someone may stumble upon this thread in the future. The Speed and Reference sensors push into the bell housing of the gearbox between the torque converter and the flywheel/ring gear. They are both side by side on the nearside of the car, behind the airbox. They are both connected to the engine harness and these connectors can be accessed by removing the airbox and can be seen attached to the block side by side. Grey connector plugs into the sensor pushed into hole B and the black connector connectors to sensor pushed into hole D. Both sensors are the same part number (12141710668) and are interchangeable but you can not get the connectors confused as they must go to the correct sensor relative to the hole identified by B and D. This is what i can see when i look into the reference sensor hole and a i believe my trigger pin has snapped because everything else has been changed and i get quite funky results when the engine is turned over and a AC Volts are measured across the sensor. See Duncan's amazing guide on how to check this if you do not know already below. MASSIVE thanks to Duncan for this, has helped me and tonnes of other people. So the sensor that i discovered was faulty was the reference sensor, which goes into the hole closest to the road. The lowest hole. This sensor was absolutely shot, it had no resistance so was not detecting anything. I changed it for a working new one which i can confirm works as it was tested in a university lab using an oscilloscope. Correct resistance and AC sine wave replicated by a spinning neodymium magnet. This has not solved my issue so this is what i see when i look into the hole. I need help and peoples experienced opinion on this as its the first time i'm investigating it: Now analysing this photo, reveals to me.... this does not look right. Although it does not look aggressively snapped, it does not look long enough!? The only angle i could take the photo forces it to be taken bias to the front of the engine so you can even see the ring gear. If you look at it from the angle the sensor would read, you can barely see the pin! I've drawn out roughly what you would see if you looked at it head on.. So, does everyone agree that this does not look right? Has my pin snapped or is this normal? As the flywheel rotates, it will not swipe across the sensors face/tip. Also, an interesting observation i made of the old, faulty sensor backs up the theory that the pin has snapped. The old sensor has swollen out creating a dome to its face (interesting?...). There are also scrape marks on its face and a dent to suggest its been grinding against something. Wondering if anyone know about this, if they have changed a flywheel on these cars. As the engine rotates and you pass the trigger pin on the flywheel, you periodically come across large tabs of the flywheel that pass by the sensor which are NOT trigger pins. They are just large areas of the flywheel that match the length of the trigger pin. These have long scratches on them like the rust of the wheel has been removed. Long lines of exposed fresh metal as if the sensors swollen tip has made them. So, that is where i am at currently. What do people think? Is this enough to pull the transmission out and replace the flywheel? Has the trigger pin snapped off? Is this normal what i am showing and if so, where would my next area of investigation be? Is changing both sensors enough to move on and look elsewhere? ALL help and opinions are immensely appreciated, i really am stuck. I also hope some of this information will inspire someone else with the same problem and help them repair their own fault!! Kindest regards, Darren - From Brighton, UK
  2. Arif

    M5 flywheel

    Hi all, looking for an M5 flywheel to upgrade my M535i with. If anyone has one please send me a PM. Thanks Arif
  3. Hi all, Even though my car is an E63 M6, I thought I'd share my recent experience of replacing the clutch and flywheel after the dreaded clutch judder that eventually effects the S85 engine and SMG box. I know this causes a lot of concern to existing owners and potential owners, so I thought I'd post a relatively good news story. My car is a 2006 E63 M6 and has done a shade over 61k miles. The clutch judder started recently and not having an extended warranty, I was aware that BMW stealers quote between £2.6 - £3k to replace the clutch and flywheel. I should point out that I have a local Indy who is an ex BMW mastertech with nearly 25 years experience. In one form or another, he's been looking after my cars since my 1985 E30 318i in the early 90's. Unfortunately, he was on 2 weeks summer holiday and I knew I had to bite the bullet and use the local stealer to keep me mobile. As predicted, after initial diagnosis, their quote came in at £2,639.15, which included replacing an O2 sensor at £125.70. Although I'm fortunate that I could pay the bill, out of principal, I wouldn't. A quick bit of googling revealed that the flywheel BMW fit is manufactured by LUK and the clutch by Sachs. I'm sure a lot of you know this already, but I guess it's useful information for the thread. A quick look at Euro Car Parts revealed that they stock the LUK flywheel and Valeo clutch kit. I then had a look at GSF car parts, who couldn't compete on price for the flywheel, but showed they stocked a 'premium' clutch kit, which a quick phone call revealed as Sachs. With the additional discount for the recent bank holiday, the total cost for parts was as follows (including delivery and VAT): Flywheel - £ 421.89 Clutch Kit - £ 516.51 Whilst this still seems a lot, in comparison against the stealers original quote for these parts at £ 2,156.34 inc VAT, I'd already saved £1,217.94! I realised that I'd still need a few sundry items, such as a new fork, guide bush and various ball pins, spring clips and fillister bolts etc, but the stealer quoted me a grand total of £30.67 for these, so I wasn't concerned. The next step was the labour time and hourly rate. As my car is over 5 years old, the stealer has a 5+ labour rate, fixed at £65 per hour, so not too bad really. We started negotiations at 7.5 hours and ended up (after much research and negotiation) on 4.5 hours. Total labour cost including VAT was therefore £351.00. Total cost for parts, labour and VAT was £ 1,320.07. Yes, this is a lot of money, but we all know that if you own an M car, you can't run them on a Vauxhall / Ford budget and compared to the original stealer quote, was around half the cost. To put this in perspective, the Service Manager advised me that on the same day, they'd replaced a clutch on a 2011 320d and that came in at £1,600. In summary, don't always be afraid of the stealer, but definitely be very wary of their parts costs! I hope this thread helps another M owner and takes some of the scare away about the costs of owning and running these cars. Thanks for reading
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