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Found 5 results

  1. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Honestly, I have lost count of how many steering wheels I have put in my car sins I got it back in 2010 but I think this is number 4. This steering wheel is actually a SSG steering wheel, probably from a e46 that looks like a SMG wheel with a carbon film. What "they" have done is covered the hole that is between the down spokes with fiberglass or some kind of raisin and then it looks like SMG wheel with no hole in the middle then cowered it with carbon film. Unfortunately, you can not see the bottom half in this picture, but there are other pictures in my log that show the bottom half of the steering wheel. Although this is a two stage steering wheel and my car is an one stage it can be mounted with some ("mortification" some typo I made there? - ) modifications to the steering wheel stem/root and connect only one of the stages of the air bag. That said, it means that if the airbag blows, it will only give you a full blast in all cases. When connecting the paddles you need to take the paddles apart and remove one tiny resistor in each of them, otherwise they will not give a clear ground as they should (read about it in another description in my folio). If you look trough my folio you can read much more about how to mount a two stage wheel on a one stage e39 from 1997. The thing I like about this setup is that, instead of having two "Joda" ears with + and - on them on each side, I can up or downshift on bot left and right side that you can not with a SSG steering wheel. My setup is, when I push them toward me they shift up and if I push on the top they shift down. It is easy to to to convert the shifting sequins just by switching the wires. All buttons on the steering wheel are functional and no air bag warning lights in the dash.
  2. V_MAX

    #7 SSG-Circuit Board For The Flaps

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Hear are the electrical circuit board's that I had to make some modifications to. I had to remove the three tiny 2mm resistors (you can see the leftover from the solder) and then we cut of the two leads on the circuit board with 5 wires, that is the one that is white and the one that is yellow/light brownish wire. All we are using are the brown and red leads. The green wire will be connected to earth, inside the steering wheel. Usually a brown wire indicates earth but for some reason they chose to use green for earth (come to think of it, then I remember seeing green color used for earth in other places on e39). The only two connections left are brown and red and these are the ones we use for the up and down shift signals. Therefor you only need to solder two new wires, one to the red and one to the brown and then connect threes wires to the two contacts, that where meant for the steering wheel hating elements on the clock spring, after that you are finished with the steering wheel setup itself and that goes without saying that you have mounted the clock spring to the steering wheel itself. Note! The SMG circuit board is totally different from SSG.
  3. V_MAX

    #4 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel

    This is how it looks like after preliminary work has been done and next step is to add the new foundation for the spring clock. I got hold of a aluminium epoxy "puddy" quite a remarkable stuff to work with. Aluminium epoxy comes in the form of finger thick stick that is two component and all you do is cut of a pice of it and maschash it between your fingers, after that it is flexable and easy to form. All you have to do is apply it to the base stem of the wheel and then press the clock spring over it and then just let it be until the aluminium epoxy turnes into something that looks like a metal aluminium. This clock has two brass rings on it and most likly yours have only black plastic. Those two rings are originally used for a a steering wheel that was headed. Now, instead of using these contacts for heading we use them as two contacts to send appropriate signals to the automatic through two carbon brushes that are mounted in a smal hole or loop-fastener behind the clock spring, one for up shift and one for down shift. One thing you schold be aware of: it is Imperative to mount the clock spring exactly the same as the old one, otherwise your tun signal might not come of at the right time or maby not at all. You might think that the middle part of the clock spring with the brass pointing down schould be straight in the middle, pointing 90° up but actually it schould be more like 94° or 4° to the right. If you are thinking that you can just put the steering wheel a little bit crooket on to correct this, then remember you have to get the car front wheels alined. It is much easyer to simply grind away the aluminium epoxy and start again. More to come....
  4. Hi all, I have been reading loads of swirl flaps issues on the BMW engines. I have an 09 reg( car produced in 08 ) automatic 525d. Engine code is M57TU2 ( I believe this is the exact code M57TÜ2D30 ). I was wondering if it is fitted with swirl flaps or not. The BMW dealership was not able to tell me based on my engine code. If it does have swirl flaps, what would you recommend doing? I do mention that the car is 167000 miles. I know that after 2004 they made the axel of the swirl flap stronger but still worried they might fail........especially that if they fail....that means pretty much scrapping the car. Anyone had any issues? Thanks a lot!
  5. Now I've finally got to the bottom of my post Swirl Flap removal problems, I thought I would post up what we did that may well save anyone else thinking of doing this a few quid by not having to using blanking plates (also no worries about trying to get the correct size etc) What you do is you remove the swirl flap itself, along with the spindle. This leaves a small hole in the holder which you tap and plug with a screw. We then secured this with Araldite. You then replace the holder and you're all sorted.
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