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Found 44 results

  1. Now completed! Information regarding installation starts in this post; ****************************************************** I'd quite like to retrofit a reversing camera to my LCI F11, it's about the only option that it doesn't have (along with upgraded HiFi) that I would have liked. I've seen a few options available from various suppliers, which seem to be a (non-OEM) camera, wiring loom and control box and presumably some coding to activate. They're available fitted for varying prices from £450 to £650 or so. I'm handy with gap openers and wiring so reckon I could fit a kit myself, but I need to know what bits to buy - I'd prefer OEM equipment if possible although as long as it appears in the same way as OEM on the screen with dynamic guidelines and a decent quality camera then that's fine. The camera definitely needs to be integrated into the boot handle, I don't want to be cutting into bodywork, or have anything stuck on. Has anyone done this themselves and can list the bits that are needed, or offer any advice?
  2. Hello all, new to this forum and new to owning a 5-series, so please excuse any stupid comments I might make! I've recently bought a used 530d F11 (auto gearbox), it's a 2012 with around 65k miles. The car's great, and overall I'm more than happy, but I do have an issue that may or may not be a problem. I'd appreciate anyone's advice or suggestions, especially if they've experienced something similar. When slowing down and reaching a speed of around 15-20mph, I hear a small rumbling noise and feel a tiny vibration. I also notice that the car decelerates a little at the same time as the noise is present (like you'd only just touched the brake pedal very gently, but I'm not braking). Also, the noise is cyclic and not constant, lasting only a few seconds and occuring maybe once or twice from 20mph until the car is almost stationary. The rumble/deceleration lasts for more than one rotation of the wheels, typically around 2-seconds in duration during which the car covers something like 4-5 car lengths of distance. The noise will then stop, then a second or two later it will start again. This problem (if it is a problem?) occurs when I'm not braking but when I'm coasting down to a slow speed. I would say the timing of the noise/deceleration seems to coincide with the autobox changing down, but it lasts longer than any gear change and I don't feel any knocks or jerks. It's hard to place the source of the noise as it's fairly quiet, but if I had to guess I'd say maybe the exhaust? I've dabbed the brakes when the noise is present - but it makes no difference to the noise. I only get this at slow speeds/low gears as described above. At all other speeds, everything is fine all the time I'm pretty sure it only occurs when the engine is cold and I'm withing the first couple of miles of the journey. Once the car's running at normal temps I don't seem to get it anymore. It occurs regularly at the start of journeys (I mean to say, it's not an intermittent issue). I've tried putting the gear shift into sport mode, and I don't seem to get this problem (although I may need to try this more often to be 100% on this) I've tried manually selecting the gears with the paddle shift and holding second gear until the car comes to a stop. This seems to stop it occurring, but not all the time, it is difficult to be certain because often the gearbox will automatically revert back to full-auto when the rpm drops too low and it wants to change gear. In all the above the car's been in normal/comfort setting. I'm not sure if this is normal (?), but it does feel kinda weird and not something I ever got driving my old work's E61 which was also a 530d with auto transmission. My car has the efficient dynamics system and I was wondering if this maybe has something to do with it? Also, I've read something about exhaust valves in these cars, opening/shutting to cut emissions or help warm the engine quicker? I don't really understand their operation, but could this be the cause? Sorry for such a long post
  3. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    I recently replaced one of the air springs on my F11. I'd already had one replaced a few months ago by an indy garage while the car was with them for some other work but after it started to drop occasionally at the opposite corner I decided to try changing it myself. Armed with the help and advice of @Munzy123 and @HandyAndy_UK among others the job was really quite easy and as long as you have a good jack and some stands available the only other equipment you'd need would be a largeish screwdriver and a 10mm open ended spanner. Oh, and a laptop with ISTA+ installed would be helpful as well. It's possible to manage without but you'll need to remove the rear underbody panels to allow access to the air suspension valve block and manually bleed the system from there. If you have access to ISTA+ there'll be less dismantling to do. Apologies for all the nerdy computer shots. I thought they might be helpful as I'd not been able to find much online showing how to use ISTA to empty/refill the sysyem. I had to buy a decent trolley jack and axle stands for the job but considering the indy garage were saying they'd need 2 hours to properly diagnose the car before making any repairs the jack and stands have almost paid for themselves already. I took a slight gamble just changing the spring without any diagnosis other than how the car was behaving.but as one spring had already been done and the car was showing 75000 miles it seemed like a reasonable bet. In the end it paid off and I'm glad to have invested in some quality equipment. To start with I connected a battery charger at the terminals under the bonnet. It wasn't the same power supply you'd find in a properly equipped workshop and only puts a slow charge into a AGM battery but knowing I was going to leave the ignition on for a while it seemed better than nothing. I also switched off everything else I could to minimise as much battery drain as possible. Next I slackened off the wheel nuts just enough to make it easier to undo them once the car was off the ground. I was only changing the spring on one side so only needed to remove one wheel but as I was fully deflating the air suspension I needed to support the rear of the car on both sides. Being an F11 I was able to use the stiffening plate behind the rear subframe as a lifting point. It looks flimsy but the supporting struts give it enough strength to hold the weight of the car. Just be sure to chock the front wheels securely as the car will have a tendency to roll forward. Once lifted high enough the car was supported on axle stands combined with rubber jack pads which fit into the jacking points. Next I used ISTA+ to fully deflate the air suspension system. After connecting the cable and establishing a connection to the car I selected the 'service functions' tab and navigated through to the option of filling and draining the air suspension. I selected the option to bleed the air bellows Then confirmed all the necessary preconditions had been met... You need to remove the 40 amp air compressor fuse which is found in the boot inside the trim behind the right hand wheel arch and numbered 182. Then clicked to confirm the bleeding procedure and then continue While the air was bleeding out I removed the wheel nuts and wheel after noting the position of the wheel on the hub. I'm not sure whether it's considered best to replace the wheel in the same position but it seemed there'd a better chance of getting it to sit flush with the hub and avoid any vibration issues later so I took a second to photograph the wheel before removing it. By this time ISTA had finished the first run through the bleeding process and was asking my if I wanted to repeat. I selected yes and clicked through the same screens as before. With the wheel now removed after the second run through I was able to feel how much pressure was left in the suspension system by pressing on the rubber bellows. It felt very soft and was easy to push into with my fingers so I guessed 2 bleeding procedures would be enough and declined ISTAs offer to repeat. The spring is secured at the bottom by three plastic tabs which engage with the the hole in the middle of the mounting. I used a suitably sized flat bladed screwdriver to push them toward the centre and so disengage them from the edge of the hole. At first I tried to unclip all three before lifting the bottom of the spring clear but I soon realised it was much easier to unclip one and twist the lower body of the spring slightly so as to prevent the first tab from re engaging while you're trying to free off the second. While holding the body of the spring in its twisted position I could then disengage a second tab. With two tabs now clear it was then easy to twist the bottom of the spring a little more in the right direction to clear the final tab leaving the spring hanging free at the bottom and clear of the mounting. To disengage the top mounting I had to turn the spring by about 45 degrees in a clockwise direction, that is clockwise if you were looking down at the top of the spring. If you look at the shape of the top of your new spring it should be clear which way you need to turn the old one. It wasn't difficult to turn, I just gripped the bellows and dust cover in both hands and the whole assembly turned quite easily. Once turned it felt quite loose and it seemed to be disengaged but was still tricky to pull down and get clear of the mounting. After trying for a few minutes and getting frustrated I stopped, looked at the spring, swore at it and tried again. This time I must've moved it in just the right way and it dropped out easily, as if mocking my previous attempts. Don't panic if it seems reluctant to come out at first. You'll soon move it just where it needs to be to pull free and you'll be left with... Take care not to twist the air line too much or it'll get kinked and need replaced or repaired using a hot coat hanger which was one method I recall reading someone had used. Next I had to undo the fitting attaching the air line to the spring using a 10mm ring spanner. . It wasn't screwed in particularly tightly and was easy to unscrew With the air line removed from the spring I pulled the threaded part of the fitting from the end after prising off the olive which grips the pipe and had a look to assess the condition of the pipe. NewTIS says the pipe needs to be in pristine condition to to ensure a good seal. Mine was not in pristine condition having score marks round the circumference presumably from the unscrewing of the fitting. I could have cut the pipe back to a clean section but would have needed to cut off almost an inch. I didn't want to leave the pipe too short or risk not making a straight cut which might not seal properly so decided to take a chance and just refit the pipe as it was. I put some tape over the open end in an effort to keep any foreign particles from entering the system. The bare air line was then able to be pulled through the hole in the dust cover and moved to one side out of the way. All that was left was to manoeuvre the spring clear of the car. This turned out to be the most difficult part of the whole job but after some perseverance I realised I had to separate the dust cover from the spring. Once I'd done that it was easy to bend the dust cover enough to pull clear and then I was able to pull the spring out from the car and give it a good inspection. It was interesting to get a good look at it. It hadn't looked too bad while on the car but now it was off and fully deflated I could see the true condition of the rubber and some of the strange symptoms resulting from failing air springs made a lot more sense. The car might drop one day but not the next. It all depends where the rubber folds. Original BMW unit with dust cover removed and Arnott replacement side by side. The Arnott one looks quite a bit smaller and came with the the new pipe fitting already in place. There was a plastic plug sealing the fitting which you need to leave in place until just before fitting the air line. I'm not sure whether you're supposed to get a new dust cover with a new spring. Mine didn't come with one but the old one looked ok and seemed to be a good fit with the Arnott spring, notwithstanding the following, so I just swapped it over. The only difficulty I had here came from the shape of the recess at the top of the Arnott spring through which the air line passes. It's a little different to the BMW unit, I guess in an effort to make it harder to trap the air line between the top of the spring and the car but makes it difficult to get a good alignment with the hole in the BMW dust cover. The hole needs to be a little lower down. Perhaps there are some specific Arnott dust covers to use with their springs. I'll look into that sometime but for now I had to get the car back together without any further delay so just had to go with what I had. I positioned the dust cover so the airline could pass through and line up as closely as possible with the connection, removed the tape I'd previously used and the plastic plug in the air inlet and pushed the air line in until it stopped. I then pulled it out gently to seal the olive as per Arnotts instructions. Re assembly is, in classic Haynes style, the reversal of the removal procedure. Offer up the top mount of the spring into its mounting hole and rotate to engage. Take car not to trap the air line at the top of the spring or you'll end up with fault codes and need to take the lot to bits again. Mine felt quite loose just hanging there but when turned seemed to be engaging positively so I was confident it was in the right place and went on to attach the bottom mount. It was difficult to pull the bottom of the spring down with enough force to engage the tabs in the hole so after a bit of trial and error I decided I'd just get it in position, try re inflating the system and see whether air pressure would do the hard work for me. I replaced the air compressor fuse and after clicking to continue I heard the compressor start working and soon after that the bellows was hard and the bottom mount was pushed fully home with tabs engaged. Referring to the photo taken earlier I replaced the wheel after giving the mating surfaces a good brush off with a wire brush and let the car back down onto the ground. It sat there, not dropping. So far so good. Torqued the wheel nuts to 140Nm, removed laptop and battery charger, put tools away and went for a drive. The Arnott spring felt much nicer that the BMW one. I'm not sure whether the ride quality degrades over time/miles or whether Arnott units are just better from the start but it's a great improvement. The car rides a lot better and the symptoms the car was displaying are no longer evident so I'm pretty happy at having done the job myself. If anyone's thinking of doing this and being put off by thought of it being too difficult... Don't think that way. As long as you don't mid getting some dirt on your hands and have the tools needed it's really very easy and will save you plenty of money for an hour or so of your time.
  4. Afternoon All, Now £6000! Here is my F11 520d touring for sale, due to moving to London. Just serviced and MOT till Feb 2021. Full service history BMW then independent. LED interior lights. Usual M-Sport refinements. M Sport with android full screen head unit and FSH. (Original BMW unit will be supplied) Engine repair by BMW Portsmouth at 112k / Mar 20 18. All pads & discs changed Summer 2019 at 135k, headlights and doors re sealed (inc drivers bulkhead grommet) Oil cooler gasket replaced summer 2019, rear airbags replaced 2018. New tyres in 2018/2019 (Due to the M5!) Service & MOT 22 Feb 2020, 148k. I have owned this car since Oct 18, mostly Plymouth to Portsmouth trips once a week, averaging 44 to 48 MPG. We road tripped to Copenhagen through Europe over 12 days covering 2150 miles at 50mpg (inc Autobhan) When traveling up the M5 only I get 52mpg sat at M way speeds. The car has usual age related marks, few scuffs on bumpers and slight wear on drivers seat and door card. No rips or tears. Car will be MOT'd before sale. Car is based in Plymouth at weekends and Portsmouth during the week, please contact for viewing or more detail. Any questions or suggestion please ask Any questions or suggestion please ask
  5. mrjdh

    Warranty question

    hi fellow owners, Quick question to those who still have warranty on their BMW. I have just been hit with the common issue with the rear air suspension not inflating properly,! the compressor kicks in fine, there is no inflate to the rears sadly! my question is, did anyone manage to get them changed under warranty? Thanks J
  6. Mart Ri

    "Boot Open" warning

    Hi, was vacuuming the boot yesterday and, now "Boot Open" warning stays on the dash. Tailgate closes and locks/unlocks without any problems, glass closes as well, just car thinks its not. Are there any reset tricks, like on side windows? F11 2010. Trunk is not automatic one. Also noticed, that rear wiper and screen wash nozzle doesn't work as well. When opening rear glass boot interior lights turns on, however when opening trunk, boot lights won't go on. Maybe it's wires to blame, but harness going to the glass (where wiper is located) are different to one going to the trunk. Can't be that both failed at the same time? Also disconnected the battery for 10mins, still the same. Plugged pc for errors, and doesn't find anything.
  7. I'd noticed one of my tyres had started to lose air so called in to a tyre fitters on my way to work. Turns out the tyre is fine but there's a crack on the inner rim of the wheel. I did catch a pot hole on Sunday evening and although it didn't feel bad enough to crack a wheel as I noticed the air loss the day after it seems a fair bet that was the cause. So now I'm weighing up the options. I'd been planning on getting a spare set of wheels at some point and getting the set currently on the car refurbed. I know there was a decent looking set for sale on here a while ago but they now appear to have been sold so I'm kicking myself for not jumping on them when I had the chance. A search on eBay turned up very little. Ideally I'd like a set of 18s onto which I can fit the Cossclimate tyres I'm running. There are a couple of sets on there but are for collection only and at the wrong end of the country for me. Single wheels in the correct style (613) could be had for £140/£150 but considering a full set should be around £400 or less that seems a lot to pay. I'd prefer to avoid resorting to eBay at all if I can so I'm considering having the crack welded. Is this a good idea? Are wheels which have been repaired that way as considered to be ok as long the repair has been done properly? The tyre fitter recommended a local welding and fabrication specialist who repairs wheels and the cost is likely to be £60 or £70. What questions should I be asking them to be sure they know what they're doing.
  8. Hi All, It's been a while since I last posted on here, but I thought I would share with you an issue I faced with my car last week, the terrible advice and technical knowledge I got from Vines and my pleasure at finding sound advice from BMR Turners Hill West Sussex... So my F11 LCi 525d went into limp home mode after its service last week at Vines of Guildford, so I took it back to them. They did a diagnostic and was told either the intake manifold actuator had failed and was not activating one of the swirl flaps, which would be replaced under warranty or, if the actuator has failed due to the engine being coked, then I would need a replacement intake manifold and have an engine de-coke which is not under warranty. What made me question Vines BMW methods was they said that they needed to remove the manifold to determine whether the engine was indeed coked which would be 3 hours labour and once they had removed the manifold I was committed to any repair. This is simply nonsense, and I told the service advisor as such. A simple compression test would be able to ascertain whether there was a coking issue and secondly the manifold was a single enclosed item that had a few bolts and could be removed in 10 minutes and thirdly if you are able to ascertain that there is or is not a coking issue, to claim I am now committed to the repair was total rubbish as they are more than capable of putting the manifold back. He did not seem to know what to say at that point. He then said he was unable to quote for the job, but only offer an estimate as the job could take up to 3 days… Again total tosh…. If there is a de-coke needed it takes 30 minutes to do (I had it done to my mini last year) not the 4 hours he said it would take and replacing the manifold would take tops 20 minutes so the maximum time is an hour. He said it was a hugely complicated job and I clearly did not know what needed to be done , which as you can imagine angered me somewhat…. After I demonstrated I knew exactly what was involved and the time it took he admitted that he need the flexibility as they were down on staff. I said I was not prepared to pay for time that was not needed and to say he needed three days was ridiculous. He then got his boss who agreed they only needed 3 hours, but I still said no you don’t and what the hell were they pulling. This is after performing a service on two occasion that was not what I booked and tried to charge me for……So I said that I wanted the car back and they tried to protest saying I could not drive it home… again clap trap as the limp home only happened once and did not do it again. The estimate came in via email and was from £1,700 - £2,200 (inc VAT) but subject to change, but the minimum being £1,700…. They also said the job would only take 3 hours but would need to have the car for 3 days due to staff shortages…..Fast forward to yesterday. I decided I was going to take the car to the BMW specialists in Turners Hill near me called BMR and the chaps that did my Mini’s cam chain. I started the car and the engine management light came on but the car seem to be behaving correctly. Got to the garage, explained what happened and what Vines said and they laughed but were not surprised. I spoke with one of the co owners and he confirmed that a compression test would immediately confirm a coking issue, but he then told me something I did not know. As the manifold issue is a known problem so the manifold had a small dipstick/nipple at the top of the manifold expressly to check if the engine had a coking issue and was a simple 5 minute job, which Vines should have checked that immediately….. They did a quick diagnostics and confirm the actuator had failed or seized and that swirl flap 4 was non longer activating correctly. Best case scenario there is no coking and actuator has failed and therefor should be replaced under warranty or worst case a de-coke and new manifold would be needed…. They would like to have the car for half a day but would charge 2 hours labour maximum as it is a “simple job”.I was then asked if I wanted to see what they did for this job as they were about to start that exact process on a 2012 520d. I obviously said yes and they showed me the coked up manifold and cylinders. It became very clear to me my car was probably suffering the same problem. So booked it in for Thursday….. As the manifold is a sealed Item and made of plastic it is impossible to clean and is an expensive part at £600 +VAT and the de-coke would be £230 +VAT all in £1,015. Vines want £690 +VAT for the manifold but a whopping £708 +VAT for the de-coke plus labour charges…. So a huge saving but still financially ruinous when you were hoping to go on holiday! Suffice to say I much prefer dealing with people who have true product knowledge and not the local village idiots that Vines seem to employ as their service advisors (who clearly do not have any product knowledge at all). So I will no longer be take my car to Vines unless it is for a warranty item as they are far to expensive and frankly I simply don't trust them.. Cheers All RC
  9. I suppose I should have expected something 'interesting' from a sensor failure on a BMW, but whilst cruising down an autobahn off ramp last week, all hell appeared to come knocking at once! Without warning the cruise cut out... TPMS unavailable warning... cruise control unavailable... park brake partial function... limiter failed... drive stability failed... ABS failed! Not my idea of a restful drive after a hot n sweaty day. Anywho, I'm still moving so all is not FUBAR just yet. Once parked, I fire up Carly and in the midst of faults and failures sitting quietly lurks 'pulse generator front left short circuit'. A quick Google for similar faults throws up tales of failed wheelspeed sensors... and thus my confidence in Carly skyrockets once more. RealOEM supplies the part number... BMW Parts suggests a 135euro 'donation' so I opt for a new Bosch sensor via AutoDoc for a more preferred 10.35euro. Upshot... I'm sat here typing while Carly clears the faults, having spent about 20 mins changing out the bad sensor. If only all BMW faults could be so cheap and easy to deal with...
  10. Countryboy Chris

    F11 Touring Dog Guard

    Guys Help needed with dog guards. I have just bought a BMW 520D (190) SE Touring Step Auto, registered September 2016. I bought an official dog guard which did not fit (bracket did not allow rear seat to fully engage with the seat bracket). Dealer tried it with another 2016 car and it did not fit. Dealer thought it was a bad batch. Bought a genuine BMW F11 dog guard second hand from another dealer who confirmed it fitted in a 2010 and late 2014 car (LCI) but again it did not fit my car. Dealers and BMW are stumped. So, any ideas as to why this is the case? Thanks
  11. Hi Folks, A conundrum for you. Having problems with the near side rear air suspension; symptoms: only effects the nearside; offside is fine. drops periodically (becoming more often) when car is parked up and engine is switched off will normally drop within a minute or two and you can hear a release of air from the back of the car seems to be susceptible when the temperature drops a little (but TBH that could just be coincidence) when I start the car up, it levels out and all looks fine recently when driving, I've gone through a few bumps and smaller pot holes and it feels like its dropped (feels like its on its bump stops - again, only on the one side); after 20s or so it sets itself level again and I can continue. Originally when it started happening, I took it to the dealers. They ran through their standard tests and couldn't find any problems (not sure the suspension dropped whilst there); they checked the air bags - no leaks. Getting worse (again, only on the one side) so dropped it down to my local garage - it didn't drop whilst there; they lifted it, checked for leaks... nothing. No error/fault codes reported either. Their thinking: can't find any leaks - not the air "bags" likely the compressor, but there's no fault codes indicating there's any real problem there. Again, it only happens on the one side. If it was a compressor side problem I'd have expected it to effect both sides... Any ideas? Thanks!
  12. Hello all and hope you are all enjoying an extended weekend of sunshine. I have taken the plunge and put a small deposit on a very nice (well from pics and description) 2013 F11 with 3.0 D engine. I am told its just had EGR recall and had new intake manifold too. 100K on the clock and full BMW SH. I have checked MOT history and everything seems to stack up, the only fail was 2 years ago and it was only due to tyres so all looks good. Test drive on saturday and if all is OK will be taking it away. Its a private seller so I need to make sure its all 100% On another note, I am selling my 2006 E61 2.0D -what should I do if I still have it when I pick up new one? ie, will need to keep old one insured for test drives etc, already got 2 cars taxed and insured, cant really have 3 on the go! If anyone can advise on what I could get for the 2006, I would be grateful. I put it on ebay and have had some stupid offers. Its an SE with 164K full SH up to about 120K and self serviced by me since. Has had all the rear looms rewired, swirl flaps etc done. Very tidy with leather interior. Been offered £1200 which I have declined but I need it shifting before I have to change insurance.
  13. AnotherMissedApex

    Anyone else got a 528i F11?

    Hi all. I'm a newbie, having just got a 2011 528i F11 manual last month. Has anyone else got one of these?
  14. Hello fellow members, Just wanted to say I love this forum and I quite enjoy browsing through photos posted by members here, so I decided I post some. I will soon post about the mods I did to my latest F07 purchase. See the collage I did for cars I owned since 2008... Have fun. Mo
  15. HandyAndy_UK

    Next job...

    Next up on the ex-Kent RPU F11 is one I've been putting off a while, but today I finally got the part. In the front end collision that most likely triggered TD15s disposal, the main air guide suffered heavy damage but despite being in several pieces remained in situ. Now I have the replacement, it's just finding time to pop to the hobbywerkstatt, remove the nosecone and bumper parts and then (according to NewTIS) the airguide should be relatively easy to replace. We shall see....
  16. MStyle

    New Products from MStyle

    Hi guys, We've added a few products to the F10/F11 and G30/G31 range. Check out below F10/F11 https://www.mstyle.co.uk/mstyle-carbon-fibre-performance-splitter-for-f10-pre-lci-bmw-5-series.html https://www.mstyle.co.uk/mstyle-carbon-fibre-boot-spoiler-for-f10-bmw-5-series.html G30/G31 https://www.mstyle.co.uk/mstyle-3-piece-carbon-fibre-splitter-for-g30-g31-bmw-5-series.html https://www.mstyle.co.uk/mstyle-carbon-fibre-corner-splitters-for-g30-g31-bmw-5-series.html If you would like to know more, feel free to give us a call and don't forget to mention you are part of the forum
  17. jayculham

    Add A SatNav

    Hi, I have a BMW 5 Series F10 with the standard radio and want to upgrade it to the wide-screen satnav one. I'm buying the screen and cd player part from a salvage 5 Series F10 If I use the satnav from the salvage car will it work on my F10 or do I need extra parts such as a new GPS Ariel? Kind Regards Jay
  18. Price drop and new tyres. Here we have my F11 2011 BMW 520D M Sport £8200 ono. I have a mini blog going (via my username, what have you done today etc) But I need a smaller car and want a 3.0 6 pot. It is advertised on Ebay (full of choppers) and Autotrader. It has the usual equipment but with added shadow line trim, black head lining and sports gear box with flappy paddles. It has business Nav with DVD playing enabled. It has extras and all gadgets work from heated seats, auto lights, auto wipers, high beam assist, voice activation, remote folding rear seats, auto boot load cover, front & rear sensors to name a few. This August (at 122k) the chain snapped and BMW repaired and rebuilt the engine. This has a 2 year warranty from BMW. I have a print out from BMW Plymouth detailing the repair work. BMW Snows carried out the work. Since I have owned the car I have: Added black front grills to match the shadow line trim. Upgraded the screen to a full size Android unit. It runs the BMW system and the Android system side by side with all wheel and centre controls active. Updated the BMW Maps to 2018. Replaced the interior lamps and rear plate lamps to LEDs. Had a full service carried out (Oil, Oil Filter, Fuel Filter, Coolant and brake fluid check) 4 wheel alignment New wiper blades The original front chrome grills can also be fitted. Service History 123399 14/10/18 Full service 122223 29/08/18 BMW engine re build (2 year warranty) 119900 11/05/18 Rear brake pads & sensor 110352 18/01/18 off side air suspension unit (£310) 106523 15/11/17 Service 78090 08/11/16 Service 74800 14/03/17 Tyre service 73726 03/02/17 Brake fluid service 67659 16/06/16 near side air suspension unit (£310) 62054 15/03/16 Service 47824 26/01/15 BMW Service 30480 30/01/14 BMW Service 15229 26/03/13 BMW Service 30560 01/02/14 BMW Warranty check The car drives really well, pulls well for its size (especially in sport mode), no noises or clunks, the Nav system also indicates on to the dash, the android unit has DAB it also has a rear parking camera but I have not gotten round to fitting that yet. The interior is immaculate, the drivers seat has the expected wear nothing to mention. All controls work as they should heat/AC, seats etc. There are a few scratches on the body work in line with the mileage. The car is regularly waxed and washed and has a deep shine. The alloys have minor scuffing and are fitted with Rim Blades, the rear bumper has a small crack in it and a boot lip protector fitted. Proof of driving licence and insurance will be required for a test drive. I live in Plymouth, I will be in Portsmouth from the 19th till the 21st when I return to Devon, I will be in the US from the 22nd till the 28th. Please feel free to ask any questions, and feed back is welcome.
  19. Hi; I have a 2003 F11 SE. I will be needing replacement brake pads and possibly discs when I next service it. Could you give me a quote for pads/discs for both the front and rear please. Cheers!
  20. Evening, Got my 520d at last, came with FSH, an engine rebuild this June by Snows BMW after a chain snap. I was after a car to commute weekly from Plymouth to Portsmouth in comfort (and step down from the A4 3.0tdi, as it was eating fuel and giving me points!) Its got the flappy paddles (are they needed in a 520d) small nav (will change), no DAB, bluetooth phone and streaming and some other bits. To be done Service booked in (it was on long life, I prefer 12m service and will probably DIY the oil every 6) Re-Map sometime next week change lamps to LED for the interior refurb all 4 alloys swap to non run flats add a full size Android head unit with DAB (has anyone installed the DAB antenna?) Done Go faster rear plate LED lights BMW Logo door lights (will post a photo when its dark) Questions: When my S9 is connected via bluetooth, the car beeps and cuts it off? Can I connect my phone by USB to make calls etc? (I'd rather not as I have a 64gb USB with all my music on it) My car is a 2011 is it worth registering for BMW connected drive? I assume it piggy backs data from my phone? Dan
  21. Good Evening All, I have been having the same error message coming up on my car now for a while "cornering ability restricted", i replaced my rear air bags in February this year and all was ok originally, then a few days later the fuse to the compressor blew, so i replaced that and went on my way the car performing perfectly well. a few weeks later the error message i've already mentions popped up on the screen, however my car doesn't have any symptoms and it drives perfectly. To begin with the error message was intermittent occasionally coming up. I will be honest i ignored it because nothing is wrong with the car. The message now continuously comes up whenever i drive the car. I decided to get a Autophix ES910 diagnostics tool to try and read the fault code - after clearing many faults the one that came back straight away was - 480DA0 Discharge Valve: Voltage Fault. I assume this is linked with the air suspension and possibly the discharge valve on the compressor has something to do with it. however the car is absolutely fine? Can anyone help on this, i don't want to start spending money on replacement items if i don't have to? Many Thanks
  22. Has anyone come across an online guide for removing the EGR valve on a F10/F11 (N47n engined) 520d? All the guides I've found (use a completely different layout and unit). Mine is the BMW Part No. 11717810871 (made by Wahler). There's a load of gubbins that would have to be removed to reach the EGR and I'd rather not be a pioneer when surely another DIYer must have done this job before.
  23. Everything worked smoothly when I bought the car, but have noticed that the cover now rises very slowly and doesn't retract fully. It is just like a roller blind with a weak spring. Has anyone out there had a similar problem, and is there an easy fix? Car is a Dec 2015 build, ex BMW PGA sponsorship, bought as AUC in June 2017 with under 4K miles in mint condition so there is no question of wear and tear.
  24. Hi. I have recently bought a 2011 BMW 535d F11. Love the car except when I first set off especially on a cold / damp day the idrive reboots itself once, twice sometimes three times. There is a few minutes inbetween each reboot where system works. Then it is ok for rest of journey / day Does anyone know where to start looking for fault Thanks Ticky
  25. Yet another RFT post Changed my '12 F11 530d SE for a '17 F11 535d M-Sport last month, as a I managed to get my ideal spec. at a great price and low mileage. Both cars have VDC. Straight away decided I would be swopping the OEM RFT's for non-RFTs, and as Goodyear had a promotion on, I ordered some Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3's. When I picked up the car I was quite pleasantly surprised, the current generation RFTs were actually 'OK', or at least the Goodyear Excellence (19") fitted to this car anyway. I still went a head and got the F1's fitted, and initially did not seem as dramatic a change as I expected. However, after running them in I am now really pleased. Ride is less harsh over sharp ridges and a little quieter, but main thing is the car rides and handles as I expect it to. You can actually 'feel' what each corner is doing. I suspect this is how BMW chassis engineers meant it to drive I just swopped again(!) to winter tyres - Continental Winter Contact TS850P on 18", and interesting thing is when I had only 10 miles on them, I dived a bit to fast into a wet roundabout (not a great idea on new rubber I know). But, it was so easy to control - lifted off, felt the back start to move, but all easily corrected, just because of the amount of feedback. Never experienced this feedback before on RFT's - they just feel 'lifeless' in comparison.
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