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Found 60 results

  1. Now completed! Information regarding installation starts in this post; ****************************************************** I'd quite like to retrofit a reversing camera to my LCI F11, it's about the only option that it doesn't have (along with upgraded HiFi) that I would have liked. I've seen a few options available from various suppliers, which seem to be a (non-OEM) camera, wiring loom and control box and presumably some coding to activate. They're available fitted for varying prices from £450 to £650 or so. I'm handy with gap openers and wiring so reckon I could fit a kit myself, but I need to know what bits to buy - I'd prefer OEM equipment if possible although as long as it appears in the same way as OEM on the screen with dynamic guidelines and a decent quality camera then that's fine. The camera definitely needs to be integrated into the boot handle, I don't want to be cutting into bodywork, or have anything stuck on. Has anyone done this themselves and can list the bits that are needed, or offer any advice?
  2. I had written up a guide on how to jack up the rear of the F10 and following a discussion on the E60 section, I thought it might be of benefit to include a specific one on jacking the front of the car. The F10 and F11 have the same front subframe from this point of view so its applicable to your wagon version too. Handbrake on, in park/gear and chock the rear wheels front and rear on both sides. The combination of my trolley jack and MSport suspension, means I can't get my jack under the front of the car to the central subframe jacking point without it fouling on the bumper Therefore I drive mine up on a couple of wooden ramps to get enough height to get my jack under Note I've not gone up the full height of the ramps as the lowest end of the ramp would then be under the cill jacking point where I need to place the axle stand. I leave the ramps in position so that if the worst happened and the car came off the jack or the jack failed, it stands a chance of landing on its wheels back on the ramps. This is the jacking point you are looking for The front subframe is locally deeper in the centre at the jacking point so it is visible poking thru the rear part of the front underbelly. This is where you want the head of your jack to be. I use a hockey puck to help spread the load and avoid damaging anything on the car underbody from the jack. Here you can see the locally deepened section of the subframe with the underbelly removed. That's the electric power steering wiring and motor right in front of the subframe cross member. Raise the car slowly and have your axle stands ready to place under the cill jacking points. I've got these specific BMW axle stand adapters that fit into the cill jacking points and spread the load onto the head of my axle stands. Car safely supported under each front cill jacking point. Bricks used to chock both sides of both rear wheels. Link to rear jacking procedure.
  3. For sale 4 x 8x18" V-Spoke 281 wheels for F11 5 Series. Wheels are fitted with Dunlop SP Winter Sport 3D RFTs with around 5mm tread and TPMS. Collection from Reading, Berkshire area. Price dropped to £500ono to clear garage space.
  4. Hello folks, I'm considering having a remap done on my car. It a a bit long in the tooth (170k!) and I want to pick it up a little with a bit more power. Anyone had a remap done recently to a similar age car to mine 520d, 2010 plate? And could someone recommend a company/garage and likely costs? What performance bhp upgrade could I expect for those that have had it done themselves? And did they think after remap it was worth the spend? Apologies in advance for so many questions! Many thanks.
  5. Hi folks, I'm new to this site and was hoping for some advice. On a recent service from my garage it was mentioned on the paperwork, 'front shock absorbers weeping fluid'. I have been on two particular websites who both sell exactly the same 4 shock absorbers for my make, model and age and both are out of stock of exactly two of them (brands Ridex and Monroe the latter being the more expensive). The other two brands being Stark (cheapest) and followed by TRW. Question, should I wait for the two more expensive brands to come back into stock or simply buy the two other cheaper brands? Unfortunately, I can't go back to them as the garage as they has decided to shut down during covid lockdown. So looking to buy myself online to make sure I get decent quality, brand and ask the MOT garage (who are also doing my servicing next week, chain called MOTEST), would they mind installing the shock absorbers I've found online. I drive a 520d 2010 plate, F11. Any advice would be much appreciated.
  6. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    I recently replaced one of the air springs on my F11. I'd already had one replaced a few months ago by an indy garage while the car was with them for some other work but after it started to drop occasionally at the opposite corner I decided to try changing it myself. Armed with the help and advice of @Munzy123 and @HandyAndy_UK among others the job was really quite easy and as long as you have a good jack and some stands available the only other equipment you'd need would be a largeish screwdriver and a 10mm open ended spanner. Oh, and a laptop with ISTA+ installed would be helpful as well. It's possible to manage without but you'll need to remove the rear underbody panels to allow access to the air suspension valve block and manually bleed the system from there. If you have access to ISTA+ there'll be less dismantling to do. Apologies for all the nerdy computer shots. I thought they might be helpful as I'd not been able to find much online showing how to use ISTA to empty/refill the sysyem. I had to buy a decent trolley jack and axle stands for the job but considering the indy garage were saying they'd need 2 hours to properly diagnose the car before making any repairs the jack and stands have almost paid for themselves already. I took a slight gamble just changing the spring without any diagnosis other than how the car was behaving.but as one spring had already been done and the car was showing 75000 miles it seemed like a reasonable bet. In the end it paid off and I'm glad to have invested in some quality equipment. To start with I connected a battery charger at the terminals under the bonnet. It wasn't the same power supply you'd find in a properly equipped workshop and only puts a slow charge into a AGM battery but knowing I was going to leave the ignition on for a while it seemed better than nothing. I also switched off everything else I could to minimise as much battery drain as possible. Next I slackened off the wheel nuts just enough to make it easier to undo them once the car was off the ground. I was only changing the spring on one side so only needed to remove one wheel but as I was fully deflating the air suspension I needed to support the rear of the car on both sides. Being an F11 I was able to use the stiffening plate behind the rear subframe as a lifting point. It looks flimsy but the supporting struts give it enough strength to hold the weight of the car. Just be sure to chock the front wheels securely as the car will have a tendency to roll forward. Once lifted high enough the car was supported on axle stands combined with rubber jack pads which fit into the jacking points. Next I used ISTA+ to fully deflate the air suspension system. After connecting the cable and establishing a connection to the car I selected the 'service functions' tab and navigated through to the option of filling and draining the air suspension. I selected the option to bleed the air bellows Then confirmed all the necessary preconditions had been met... You need to remove the 40 amp air compressor fuse which is found in the boot inside the trim behind the right hand wheel arch and numbered 182. Then clicked to confirm the bleeding procedure and then continue While the air was bleeding out I removed the wheel nuts and wheel after noting the position of the wheel on the hub. I'm not sure whether it's considered best to replace the wheel in the same position but it seemed there'd a better chance of getting it to sit flush with the hub and avoid any vibration issues later so I took a second to photograph the wheel before removing it. By this time ISTA had finished the first run through the bleeding process and was asking my if I wanted to repeat. I selected yes and clicked through the same screens as before. With the wheel now removed after the second run through I was able to feel how much pressure was left in the suspension system by pressing on the rubber bellows. It felt very soft and was easy to push into with my fingers so I guessed 2 bleeding procedures would be enough and declined ISTAs offer to repeat. The spring is secured at the bottom by three plastic tabs which engage with the the hole in the middle of the mounting. I used a suitably sized flat bladed screwdriver to push them toward the centre and so disengage them from the edge of the hole. At first I tried to unclip all three before lifting the bottom of the spring clear but I soon realised it was much easier to unclip one and twist the lower body of the spring slightly so as to prevent the first tab from re engaging while you're trying to free off the second. While holding the body of the spring in its twisted position I could then disengage a second tab. With two tabs now clear it was then easy to twist the bottom of the spring a little more in the right direction to clear the final tab leaving the spring hanging free at the bottom and clear of the mounting. To disengage the top mounting I had to turn the spring by about 45 degrees in a clockwise direction, that is clockwise if you were looking down at the top of the spring. If you look at the shape of the top of your new spring it should be clear which way you need to turn the old one. It wasn't difficult to turn, I just gripped the bellows and dust cover in both hands and the whole assembly turned quite easily. Once turned it felt quite loose and it seemed to be disengaged but was still tricky to pull down and get clear of the mounting. After trying for a few minutes and getting frustrated I stopped, looked at the spring, swore at it and tried again. This time I must've moved it in just the right way and it dropped out easily, as if mocking my previous attempts. Don't panic if it seems reluctant to come out at first. You'll soon move it just where it needs to be to pull free and you'll be left with... Take care not to twist the air line too much or it'll get kinked and need replaced or repaired using a hot coat hanger which was one method I recall reading someone had used. Next I had to undo the fitting attaching the air line to the spring using a 10mm ring spanner. . It wasn't screwed in particularly tightly and was easy to unscrew With the air line removed from the spring I pulled the threaded part of the fitting from the end after prising off the olive which grips the pipe and had a look to assess the condition of the pipe. NewTIS says the pipe needs to be in pristine condition to to ensure a good seal. Mine was not in pristine condition having score marks round the circumference presumably from the unscrewing of the fitting. I could have cut the pipe back to a clean section but would have needed to cut off almost an inch. I didn't want to leave the pipe too short or risk not making a straight cut which might not seal properly so decided to take a chance and just refit the pipe as it was. I put some tape over the open end in an effort to keep any foreign particles from entering the system. The bare air line was then able to be pulled through the hole in the dust cover and moved to one side out of the way. All that was left was to manoeuvre the spring clear of the car. This turned out to be the most difficult part of the whole job but after some perseverance I realised I had to separate the dust cover from the spring. Once I'd done that it was easy to bend the dust cover enough to pull clear and then I was able to pull the spring out from the car and give it a good inspection. It was interesting to get a good look at it. It hadn't looked too bad while on the car but now it was off and fully deflated I could see the true condition of the rubber and some of the strange symptoms resulting from failing air springs made a lot more sense. The car might drop one day but not the next. It all depends where the rubber folds. Original BMW unit with dust cover removed and Arnott replacement side by side. The Arnott one looks quite a bit smaller and came with the the new pipe fitting already in place. There was a plastic plug sealing the fitting which you need to leave in place until just before fitting the air line. I'm not sure whether you're supposed to get a new dust cover with a new spring. Mine didn't come with one but the old one looked ok and seemed to be a good fit with the Arnott spring, notwithstanding the following, so I just swapped it over. The only difficulty I had here came from the shape of the recess at the top of the Arnott spring through which the air line passes. It's a little different to the BMW unit, I guess in an effort to make it harder to trap the air line between the top of the spring and the car but makes it difficult to get a good alignment with the hole in the BMW dust cover. The hole needs to be a little lower down. Perhaps there are some specific Arnott dust covers to use with their springs. I'll look into that sometime but for now I had to get the car back together without any further delay so just had to go with what I had. I positioned the dust cover so the airline could pass through and line up as closely as possible with the connection, removed the tape I'd previously used and the plastic plug in the air inlet and pushed the air line in until it stopped. I then pulled it out gently to seal the olive as per Arnotts instructions. Re assembly is, in classic Haynes style, the reversal of the removal procedure. Offer up the top mount of the spring into its mounting hole and rotate to engage. Take car not to trap the air line at the top of the spring or you'll end up with fault codes and need to take the lot to bits again. Mine felt quite loose just hanging there but when turned seemed to be engaging positively so I was confident it was in the right place and went on to attach the bottom mount. It was difficult to pull the bottom of the spring down with enough force to engage the tabs in the hole so after a bit of trial and error I decided I'd just get it in position, try re inflating the system and see whether air pressure would do the hard work for me. I replaced the air compressor fuse and after clicking to continue I heard the compressor start working and soon after that the bellows was hard and the bottom mount was pushed fully home with tabs engaged. Referring to the photo taken earlier I replaced the wheel after giving the mating surfaces a good brush off with a wire brush and let the car back down onto the ground. It sat there, not dropping. So far so good. Torqued the wheel nuts to 140Nm, removed laptop and battery charger, put tools away and went for a drive. The Arnott spring felt much nicer that the BMW one. I'm not sure whether the ride quality degrades over time/miles or whether Arnott units are just better from the start but it's a great improvement. The car rides a lot better and the symptoms the car was displaying are no longer evident so I'm pretty happy at having done the job myself. If anyone's thinking of doing this and being put off by thought of it being too difficult... Don't think that way. As long as you don't mid getting some dirt on your hands and have the tools needed it's really very easy and will save you plenty of money for an hour or so of your time.
  7. £6750 ono This is not your usual poverty spec BMW 520d Touring (F11), this car comes with some pretty rare and very useful options. I looked around for ages before buying this car a year ago for a new job (that was going to involve a lot of miles on the road). I am only selling this now as I am changing jobs and my commute has reduced massively. The car has only covered about 6000 miles since it was last serviced a year ago thanks to the lockdowns, and it comes with a fresh 12-month MOT with no advisories. The car can be viewed in North Devon, but I would be more than happy to meet somewhere reasonable for my travel costs to deliver. I could meet to view in the West London area over the next few days. There have only been two previous owners, and up until the last service (which was carried out by the garage I bought it off) the car has a full BMW service history with some big jobs carried out in the recent past. The most important one for the N47 engine is that the timing chain was replaced by BMW in January 2020. It would have (obviously) had an oil change at that point, then again in July 2020, and I have only done 6000 miles since. The new owner can keep up more frequent oil changes to stave off any future issues with the new timing chain. A lot of other BMW invoices come with the car for various jobs (as you can see in the photos). The original owners pack, and the approved used owners pack come with the car. It has a complete history with it. The car has a few small stone chips on the front, and there is a small amount of corrosion on the alloys, but overall, the paintwork is in really good condition. The paint has clearly been well looked after (no swirl marks or major blemishes), and the alloys have no heavy curbing. Given the mileage it is in great condition. Inside it is very good too, with minimal wear throughout. The tyres all have at least 4mm tread, the fronts are Goodyears, the rears Pirelli. It is in mechanically excellent condition. I fitted and coded a new rear shock (the shocks on this car have Electronically Controlled Dampers – EDC fitted) to replace one that was leaking badly, plus two new lower wishbone arms as the ball joints had gone. These were the only issues on the latest MOT. The Dynamic Damper Control (or EDC) system is amazing, you get the best of all worlds, the comfort and ride of an SE, plus when you want to far firmer suspension put it in Sport and off you go (body control in all modes is exceptional). It is amazing how capable the car can be given it is a big 5 series. It is a great option to have on the car, and really a very rare option on a 520d. The 8-speed auto gearbox has had a recent oil change and shifting is smooth. A genuine ZF sump pan was fitted with genuine ZF Lifeline 8 oil. So you have peace of mind knowing this has been carried out. It has the optional paddle shifters fitted, so when the mood takes you, you can have full manual control over the gearbox from the paddles. The car ride is tight and no knocks or creaks, mechanically it is spot on and drives like new. The car is fitted with the surround view camera system (another pretty rare option on a 520d), with reversing camera, park assist (using the Top View cameras) and front corner mounted Side View cameras (ideal for pulling out of tight junctions as the nose is pretty long on this car). There is a common failure of the nearside front Side View camera cable which gets water ingress, and the camera fails. My car had this fault when I bought it, but I got a new genuine replacement cable from BMW and repaired this (which was a pain of a job) but the system now fully works (see photos). Another excellent and really rare option on the car is the Active Cruise Control with Stop & Go. This is a radar cruise system which will brake the car to a standstill (great for slow moving traffic) and maintain a distance to the car in front. If you plan to commute any distance this makes driving effortless. Finally, there is the visibility pack, with adaptive xenon headlights (that “steer” round corners) and main beam assist (which is awesome). I will miss the headlights on this car, they are really very good. Other than these the car comes with some other options and all the usual refinements: powered tailgate, ambient interior lighting, auto wipers, front heated seats (black leather seats), dipping nearside wing mirror to help reversing (not that you need it with all the cameras!), auto dimming rear view mirror and wing mirrors, auto wipers, electric adjustable seats with memory function, power folding wing mirrors (will fold in with a long press of the lock button), climate control (blows nice and cold). The car is not fitted with the professional navigation system (in fact it does not have navigation at all), but it does have Bluetooth enabled and USB/line in connection. I fitted a Brodit mount for my phone to the dashboard (which I will leave attached to the car – you just need to buy the cradle specific to your phone). Fitting the cradle did not require any drilling/cutting to fit so it can be removed without leaving a mark. I then retrofitted the OEM 12V socket hidden under the glovebox which made it a pretty neat install (see photos). I then just used my mobile for navigation and for streaming music over Bluetooth (a phone is way better than the pretty rubbish pro nav system). The car can be paired to two mobile phones. I’m sure I have missed some stuff, but as I mentioned this is not your usual run-of-the-mill 520d, and I hope it goes to a good home! Any questions get in touch.
  8. Hi everyone, i was wondering if anyone has come across a rear coil spring conversion for the F11. Or if anyone has done it themselves. I’d rather eliminate the issue of these airbags failing and being stranded somewhere because of them! thanks in advance Harris
  9. Cadwell Parker

    F11 Diff oil

    My F11 was at the garage today for a few things including a change of diff oil. A few hours after dropping the car off the garage rang to say they'd done everything apart from the diff oil. They'd been in touch with BMW re the oil and been told they need to use the genuine BMW oil at £80 per litre, BMW refused to tell them the spec of their oil, only offering the part number saying that that is the only oil which can be used in my car and anything else will result in irreparable damage. The garage wanted to check that was ok with me before going ahead. I told them not to bother for now and after a brief search on here see others ( @sams255 and @Munzy123 ) have used SAE 75/90 oils from Motul and Castrol. How did those work for you guys? Did your diffs explode soon after? Have you done lots of mileage without any apparent consequences? Would I be correct in thinking any SAE75/90 oil from a reputable company should be just fine and I should just buy some Castrol/Shell/Motul etc and ask the garage to use that? I'd be tempted to have a go at the job myself but don't have any level ground near home which seems to be an important requirement it you want to be sure of filling with the correct amount of oil.
  10. I've just picked up a 66 plate 520D on 42k miles and it's done over 10k miles since the last service. The oil is proper black and smells of diesel. I'm not a fan of extended servicing intervals anyway. So my question is, if I get a local indie to do just an interim oil change can they then reset the onboard service computer but just for the oil change? I don't want to throw any of the other service timings out of kilter (inspections, brakes etc).
  11. H i Everyone, I am hoping some one can help with a problem on my 2014 520D F11. My display cluster is a 6WA 'instrument panel with extended scope'. According to the owners handbook, on page 90, when i put the transmission into Sport or Sport+ mode, 'the display on the instrument cluster switches to the Sport Displays', where the speedo changes from an analogue dial to a digital display on the left and the rev counter with the gearbox in the centre on the right . Well my display does not change at all. It is the same as for when i am in Comfort or eco pro. I have gone into the idrive and, settings menu but no matter what i try the cluster display stays the same. There are no warnings or fault codes or anything to indicate there is a problem with the car or the display cluster. What am i doing wrong? Thanks, Nat
  12. Rob319zd

    Battery issue

    Hello I've just purchased a 2010 f11 touring 520d. When viewing the car there was a warning that the battery requires replacing when convenient. The seller (2nd hand car dealer) said this was because it's been standing for some time and 'should' go. Anyway I got a fair bit of money off because the front pads need replacing soon which I can do myself. Didn't want the dealer to complete this work as I prefer OEM parts. Looking through the paperwork I found a small crumbled receipt which was a warranty for a battery fitted in 2019 from Halfords. Also in last years service (march 2020) it was noted that this warning light was on then. I've come to the conclusion that the battery may not have been registered by Halfords (if it was even fitted by them) back in 2019 leaving the warning there since then. Am I right in thinking that for this warning to be corrected the battery needs to be registered correctly? If so can a two year old battery be registered as I've read elsewhere that it should only be a brand new one? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  13. Cadwell Parker

    Thermostat issues now resolved

    Quite a saga recently following the remap I had done on the F11. Nothing really to do with the remap itself but having read another forum member talking about their engine running cooler following remapping I was keeping a closer eye on things. Just to confuse matters the first drives following the remap coincided with the onset of the recent cold weather so it wasn’t easy to tell for sure what was going on. I’d suspected for a while the presumably original thermostat wasn’t quite working as it should, the car seemed to take a while to get up to temperature and would drop quite quickly when rolling downhill for any length of time but the car ran perfectly otherwise, easily getting up 96 degrees when running at speed with regens happening roughly every 600 miles or so I’d been happy to leave it be. The car certainly seemed to be running a couple of degrees cooler than I had expected following the remap but motorway speeds or a constant uphill gradient would see the temperature climb to 94/95 degrees which was just below pre remap figures so went some way towards confirming cooler running. After running with the remap for a couple of days, heading home after finishing work one night when admittedly it was particularly cold the engine took 18 miles/20 mins running to reach 80 degrees. This seemed excessive so deciding the cooler running remap had tipped the thermostat over the edge making the car struggle even more to warm up I set about finding a replacement. A quote for a genuine item from a dealer close to this forum was rather higher than I’d hoped but a visit to a well known internet ‘auction’ site turned up a more favourably priced item from a well known brand of good repute so I went ahead and ordered it later arranging for the local BMW friendly garage not far from me to fit it. After fitting it soon became obvious the new stat was not working as intended. In fact it was worse than the faulty one it was replacing. The car was now struggling to get above 50 degrees anywhere on my 45 mile drive to work with the top radiator hose getting warm after 5 mins running and 35 degrees on the gauge. Returning to the garage a few days later they asked if I wanted them to get a price for a genuine one from the local dealer. The price came back almost half of the previous genuine quote I’d had and not much more than the ‘bargain’ I thought I’d bought. I asked them to order and fit the genuine stat. It’s been a week or so since having the new stat fitted and now all is well. The car warms up faster but I was concerned to find the top radiator hose still getting warm before the engine was anywhere close to fully warmed up. My understanding was it should stay cold until the thermostat opens but when I mentioned this to the garage they said they they’re happy it’s working properly so I’m trusting their judgement. The new stat is keeping the engine running in a much narrower temperature range. I’ve yet to see coolant temps above 90 degrees. That was with the outside temp up to 8 degrees so nowhere near as cold as it has been. There’s a downhill section of road I drive when heading home from work where the car will more or less roll on over-run for 3 miles. Even when it was still -4 degrees outside if I switched off the heater and let the car roll it would hold its temperature at 87 degrees for most of the way down, only dropping to 86 at the last 100 yards or so so it seems to be doing its job pretty well. So the conclusion so far is it looks as though the remap may have made the car run slightly cooler but the new stat is working well at keeping the temperature under better control. I’ve had to call back to the garage to have a splash of coolant added but they’ve not given me a bill for the genuine stat yet. ‘Just run it for another week to make sure it’s ok then come back and see us’. Fair enough. The other stat has been returned as faulty and the cost refunded.
  14. steveF11

    F11 Tow bar electrics

    Will be fitting a good used Towtrust towbar on my 2014 F11520d manual soon. What is the opinion on dedicated electrics v relay kit? Jones does a dedicated kit for £103(think its Westfalia) v typical generic relay kit cost of £25-£35. I'm not that fussed about disconnecting rear alarm bleepers or fog lights but would be keen to ensure any suspension towing enhancements come on. If I go down the dedicated route presumably need coding done--ISTA+ perhaps or dealer? Any links for ISTA instuctions welcome. I've used it successfully to reset the cars ride height and code a battery but I keep my fingers firmly crossed!
  15. If your estate BMW 5 Series (known as a Touring or the F11 or the GT F07) has its backside on the ground one morning or you have an error message on your dash relating to a ride fault or an air suspension fault, have a look through these threads to give you an idea on what the issue is and how to resolve it. This is a collection of just some of the threads to be found on here, not all are one here simply due to the fact, they were never resolved or closed out so there is nothing to be learned from them. This is purely a reference thread to other posts on here and is not to be used as a discussion thread. Failure symptoms above thread was closed out in last post of this next thread DIY guide to replacing the rear sir springs. DIY Guide to replace the solenoid valve System Behaviour Normal behaviour Compressor Compressor removal (access needed to NewTIS) Compressor Faults Ride Height Queries F11 Rear suspension height F07 Ride height query F11 ride height to high One side failure F07 Bump Stop issues Disintegrating rear bump stops Valve block Air spring fault Lowering of an F11 Standard or MSport Air spring differences Tech chat on tools needed for air line. Relay If you want another thread adding to this, please message me and I'll reference it in here.
  16. Hi 2014 f11 520d. Had rear suspension pump valve problem now sorted. Car seems lower than before with 578mm from bottom of rear wheel flange to body on 17 inch wheels both sides. Anyone know or able to signpost me to what the spec height should be? Ta
  17. Hi all Has anyone managed to retrofit heated front seats to an early F10, when heated seats were still an optional extra? I've got a 2010 F10 and would like to find out what's involved, from anyone that has done it before. Thanks
  18. Hi anyone, just wanted to share something and also see if people think I'm being crazy ! I have a 535d Estate, which is obviously really front heavy. I think if this was a 520 I may not feel the same way. (my last car was an E61 520) I have standard 19" 351 alloys with the square setup, 245/40/19s all round and I feel they need more poke, mainly for aesthetics, however now I've done it, the steering is VASTLY improved with 10mm spacers on the front. I bought Bimecc 10mm spacers and long bolts for the front as they were the only decent ones I found that bundled spacers and bolts. They seem good quality, are nicely light and seem well machined, the bolts say the all important 10.9 on them so all good so far. My problem is their diameter.... I've approached the supplier and they said it's a TUV approved fitment across the range however they are just not as wide as the contact patch between wheel and hub... there is an overhang... only of about 5mm but that's on the very outside edge so thinking of leverage and surface area (a 5mm band on the outside of a circle is MUCH more area than a 5mm band towards the centre) they just cannot be as strong as the H and R spacers I have now bought for the back. It may be that smaller cars have smaller diameter hubs so they'll be good ??! Pictures attached, if there are any mechanical engineers out there who wish to tell me that I'm being daft, feel free... but when I'm really going at it into a high speed bend now I'm aware I don't trust them. And they look a bit naff. On the pictures you'll see the contact patch where my wheel meets hub, the black bimecc spacer (with contact patch poking out of the edge) , and one where I've put the silver H and R spacer under the Bimecc one for comparison. Hope that's useful. Mike.
  19. Hello all, new to this forum and new to owning a 5-series, so please excuse any stupid comments I might make! I've recently bought a used 530d F11 (auto gearbox), it's a 2012 with around 65k miles. The car's great, and overall I'm more than happy, but I do have an issue that may or may not be a problem. I'd appreciate anyone's advice or suggestions, especially if they've experienced something similar. When slowing down and reaching a speed of around 15-20mph, I hear a small rumbling noise and feel a tiny vibration. I also notice that the car decelerates a little at the same time as the noise is present (like you'd only just touched the brake pedal very gently, but I'm not braking). Also, the noise is cyclic and not constant, lasting only a few seconds and occuring maybe once or twice from 20mph until the car is almost stationary. The rumble/deceleration lasts for more than one rotation of the wheels, typically around 2-seconds in duration during which the car covers something like 4-5 car lengths of distance. The noise will then stop, then a second or two later it will start again. This problem (if it is a problem?) occurs when I'm not braking but when I'm coasting down to a slow speed. I would say the timing of the noise/deceleration seems to coincide with the autobox changing down, but it lasts longer than any gear change and I don't feel any knocks or jerks. It's hard to place the source of the noise as it's fairly quiet, but if I had to guess I'd say maybe the exhaust? I've dabbed the brakes when the noise is present - but it makes no difference to the noise. I only get this at slow speeds/low gears as described above. At all other speeds, everything is fine all the time I'm pretty sure it only occurs when the engine is cold and I'm withing the first couple of miles of the journey. Once the car's running at normal temps I don't seem to get it anymore. It occurs regularly at the start of journeys (I mean to say, it's not an intermittent issue). I've tried putting the gear shift into sport mode, and I don't seem to get this problem (although I may need to try this more often to be 100% on this) I've tried manually selecting the gears with the paddle shift and holding second gear until the car comes to a stop. This seems to stop it occurring, but not all the time, it is difficult to be certain because often the gearbox will automatically revert back to full-auto when the rpm drops too low and it wants to change gear. In all the above the car's been in normal/comfort setting. I'm not sure if this is normal (?), but it does feel kinda weird and not something I ever got driving my old work's E61 which was also a 530d with auto transmission. My car has the efficient dynamics system and I was wondering if this maybe has something to do with it? Also, I've read something about exhaust valves in these cars, opening/shutting to cut emissions or help warm the engine quicker? I don't really understand their operation, but could this be the cause? Sorry for such a long post
  20. Afternoon All, Now £6000! Here is my F11 520d touring for sale, due to moving to London. Just serviced and MOT till Feb 2021. Full service history BMW then independent. LED interior lights. Usual M-Sport refinements. M Sport with android full screen head unit and FSH. (Original BMW unit will be supplied) Engine repair by BMW Portsmouth at 112k / Mar 20 18. All pads & discs changed Summer 2019 at 135k, headlights and doors re sealed (inc drivers bulkhead grommet) Oil cooler gasket replaced summer 2019, rear airbags replaced 2018. New tyres in 2018/2019 (Due to the M5!) Service & MOT 22 Feb 2020, 148k. I have owned this car since Oct 18, mostly Plymouth to Portsmouth trips once a week, averaging 44 to 48 MPG. We road tripped to Copenhagen through Europe over 12 days covering 2150 miles at 50mpg (inc Autobhan) When traveling up the M5 only I get 52mpg sat at M way speeds. The car has usual age related marks, few scuffs on bumpers and slight wear on drivers seat and door card. No rips or tears. Car will be MOT'd before sale. Car is based in Plymouth at weekends and Portsmouth during the week, please contact for viewing or more detail. Any questions or suggestion please ask Any questions or suggestion please ask
  21. mrjdh

    Warranty question

    hi fellow owners, Quick question to those who still have warranty on their BMW. I have just been hit with the common issue with the rear air suspension not inflating properly,! the compressor kicks in fine, there is no inflate to the rears sadly! my question is, did anyone manage to get them changed under warranty? Thanks J
  22. Mart Ri

    "Boot Open" warning

    Hi, was vacuuming the boot yesterday and, now "Boot Open" warning stays on the dash. Tailgate closes and locks/unlocks without any problems, glass closes as well, just car thinks its not. Are there any reset tricks, like on side windows? F11 2010. Trunk is not automatic one. Also noticed, that rear wiper and screen wash nozzle doesn't work as well. When opening rear glass boot interior lights turns on, however when opening trunk, boot lights won't go on. Maybe it's wires to blame, but harness going to the glass (where wiper is located) are different to one going to the trunk. Can't be that both failed at the same time? Also disconnected the battery for 10mins, still the same. Plugged pc for errors, and doesn't find anything.
  23. I'd noticed one of my tyres had started to lose air so called in to a tyre fitters on my way to work. Turns out the tyre is fine but there's a crack on the inner rim of the wheel. I did catch a pot hole on Sunday evening and although it didn't feel bad enough to crack a wheel as I noticed the air loss the day after it seems a fair bet that was the cause. So now I'm weighing up the options. I'd been planning on getting a spare set of wheels at some point and getting the set currently on the car refurbed. I know there was a decent looking set for sale on here a while ago but they now appear to have been sold so I'm kicking myself for not jumping on them when I had the chance. A search on eBay turned up very little. Ideally I'd like a set of 18s onto which I can fit the Cossclimate tyres I'm running. There are a couple of sets on there but are for collection only and at the wrong end of the country for me. Single wheels in the correct style (613) could be had for £140/£150 but considering a full set should be around £400 or less that seems a lot to pay. I'd prefer to avoid resorting to eBay at all if I can so I'm considering having the crack welded. Is this a good idea? Are wheels which have been repaired that way as considered to be ok as long the repair has been done properly? The tyre fitter recommended a local welding and fabrication specialist who repairs wheels and the cost is likely to be £60 or £70. What questions should I be asking them to be sure they know what they're doing.
  24. Hi All, It's been a while since I last posted on here, but I thought I would share with you an issue I faced with my car last week, the terrible advice and technical knowledge I got from Vines and my pleasure at finding sound advice from BMR Turners Hill West Sussex... So my F11 LCi 525d went into limp home mode after its service last week at Vines of Guildford, so I took it back to them. They did a diagnostic and was told either the intake manifold actuator had failed and was not activating one of the swirl flaps, which would be replaced under warranty or, if the actuator has failed due to the engine being coked, then I would need a replacement intake manifold and have an engine de-coke which is not under warranty. What made me question Vines BMW methods was they said that they needed to remove the manifold to determine whether the engine was indeed coked which would be 3 hours labour and once they had removed the manifold I was committed to any repair. This is simply nonsense, and I told the service advisor as such. A simple compression test would be able to ascertain whether there was a coking issue and secondly the manifold was a single enclosed item that had a few bolts and could be removed in 10 minutes and thirdly if you are able to ascertain that there is or is not a coking issue, to claim I am now committed to the repair was total rubbish as they are more than capable of putting the manifold back. He did not seem to know what to say at that point. He then said he was unable to quote for the job, but only offer an estimate as the job could take up to 3 days… Again total tosh…. If there is a de-coke needed it takes 30 minutes to do (I had it done to my mini last year) not the 4 hours he said it would take and replacing the manifold would take tops 20 minutes so the maximum time is an hour. He said it was a hugely complicated job and I clearly did not know what needed to be done , which as you can imagine angered me somewhat…. After I demonstrated I knew exactly what was involved and the time it took he admitted that he need the flexibility as they were down on staff. I said I was not prepared to pay for time that was not needed and to say he needed three days was ridiculous. He then got his boss who agreed they only needed 3 hours, but I still said no you don’t and what the hell were they pulling. This is after performing a service on two occasion that was not what I booked and tried to charge me for……So I said that I wanted the car back and they tried to protest saying I could not drive it home… again clap trap as the limp home only happened once and did not do it again. The estimate came in via email and was from £1,700 - £2,200 (inc VAT) but subject to change, but the minimum being £1,700…. They also said the job would only take 3 hours but would need to have the car for 3 days due to staff shortages…..Fast forward to yesterday. I decided I was going to take the car to the BMW specialists in Turners Hill near me called BMR and the chaps that did my Mini’s cam chain. I started the car and the engine management light came on but the car seem to be behaving correctly. Got to the garage, explained what happened and what Vines said and they laughed but were not surprised. I spoke with one of the co owners and he confirmed that a compression test would immediately confirm a coking issue, but he then told me something I did not know. As the manifold issue is a known problem so the manifold had a small dipstick/nipple at the top of the manifold expressly to check if the engine had a coking issue and was a simple 5 minute job, which Vines should have checked that immediately….. They did a quick diagnostics and confirm the actuator had failed or seized and that swirl flap 4 was non longer activating correctly. Best case scenario there is no coking and actuator has failed and therefor should be replaced under warranty or worst case a de-coke and new manifold would be needed…. They would like to have the car for half a day but would charge 2 hours labour maximum as it is a “simple job”.I was then asked if I wanted to see what they did for this job as they were about to start that exact process on a 2012 520d. I obviously said yes and they showed me the coked up manifold and cylinders. It became very clear to me my car was probably suffering the same problem. So booked it in for Thursday….. As the manifold is a sealed Item and made of plastic it is impossible to clean and is an expensive part at £600 +VAT and the de-coke would be £230 +VAT all in £1,015. Vines want £690 +VAT for the manifold but a whopping £708 +VAT for the de-coke plus labour charges…. So a huge saving but still financially ruinous when you were hoping to go on holiday! Suffice to say I much prefer dealing with people who have true product knowledge and not the local village idiots that Vines seem to employ as their service advisors (who clearly do not have any product knowledge at all). So I will no longer be take my car to Vines unless it is for a warranty item as they are far to expensive and frankly I simply don't trust them.. Cheers All RC
  25. I suppose I should have expected something 'interesting' from a sensor failure on a BMW, but whilst cruising down an autobahn off ramp last week, all hell appeared to come knocking at once! Without warning the cruise cut out... TPMS unavailable warning... cruise control unavailable... park brake partial function... limiter failed... drive stability failed... ABS failed! Not my idea of a restful drive after a hot n sweaty day. Anywho, I'm still moving so all is not FUBAR just yet. Once parked, I fire up Carly and in the midst of faults and failures sitting quietly lurks 'pulse generator front left short circuit'. A quick Google for similar faults throws up tales of failed wheelspeed sensors... and thus my confidence in Carly skyrockets once more. RealOEM supplies the part number... BMW Parts suggests a 135euro 'donation' so I opt for a new Bosch sensor via AutoDoc for a more preferred 10.35euro. Upshot... I'm sat here typing while Carly clears the faults, having spent about 20 mins changing out the bad sensor. If only all BMW faults could be so cheap and easy to deal with...