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Found 281 results

  1. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    In case, as I experienced when I mistakenly bought a two stage air bag steering wheel, instead of one stage for my car, I would like to give this advice to any one who is thinking of getting a new or refurbished steering wheel. These are two different type of steering wheels, on the left is a one stage airbag wheel and on the right is a two stage air bag wheel. It is nearly impossible to put a two stage wheel, in a car that was born with one stage steering wheel. My advice and 2c, do not try to attempt to do that conversion, unless you have a good understanding on reprogramming the ECU bin. files, (that is if you decide to convert it to a functional two stage airbag car) and a fairly good understanding of your car wiring. So far, I have not heard of anyone that has made this conversion 100% to the specs and correct......> But, there is an "easier" way around this, by scarifying one of the stages of the airbag, thereby it becomes a one stage airbag steering wheel, like the one you have in the older BMW´s like mine from 1997. Sins writing this above in 2016, I have mounted the two stage steering wheel (in late 2018) and I got it to works perfectly, including all the control buttons and the airbag, without getting the red airbag warning light! and again in late 2020 I mounted again a "new", two stage steering wheel with shifter flaps, with the same positive results You can read more about how to make this changeover with other pictures and "info/instructions" I have in my portfolio.
  2. V_MAX

    M50 Manifold on M52 Engine

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This was a fun project First I had to find a good M50 manifold and modify it so all the pluming would work. I also had to make some modifications to the power steering reservoir and fuel rail bracket. Sins writing this in 2015 I have changed the fuel injectors to 49% larger injectors and remapped all the fuel maps. The result was a better fuel economy and better emission numbers. Sins everything was taken apart I made the decision to renew all the rubber hoses and new refurbished fuel-injectors at the same time. The rest was more or less plug and play. Obviously there was a little loss of torque under 3500rpm. but after that there is a lot of gain in hp. Unless you are driving a lot on steep roads for longer time, then I highly recommend this conversion. The only way to compensate for the loss of torque is replacing both of the standard camshafts that came with the M52b25 with to new/used ones; intake cam from M54b30 for the intake and another INTAKE cam from M50NV for the EXHAUST sound crazy but that is the rout to go. You have to do minor modifications on both of the replacement cams. After having made this conversion I have found out that I have maxed out my fuel injectors A/F, they are the green Bosch (0 280 150 415) capable of around 166cc, (sorry for my mistake, I had written earlier, pink injectors (0 280 150 440) that are 208cc) so I am going to replace them with bigger ones, probably Bosch 0 280 155 830 capable of around 360cc and remap accordingly the ECU with MLV and RomRaider. One other thing I should mention, if you have to change to larger fuel injectors due to fuel starvation then you have to make modifications to the fuel maps and possibly some other parameters in the ECU, so the message is; do not change to higher capacity fuel injectors in hope of getting more horses out of the engine. In almost all cases, then the standard injectors that came with the engine are cable of deliver more than enough fuel, despite some standard or minor tuning, unless you are going for a turbo, or as in my case, larger cams and intake manifold and headers with free flow exhaust and a rather small injectors capable of only 166cc. After making this modifications I would like to suggest that the ECU should be remapped/tuned by someone who knows what he or she is doing to get the most Hp. out of this modifications. With new larger fuel injectors, you HAVE to remap the ECU, there is no way around it. You can just let it be as it is with only the M50 manifold swap and the current fuel injectors and you will get some adaptation up to a certain point from the ECU, but nothing near the full benefits with remapping the ECU. You can read more about the cam replacement in my portfolio. All I need now is a COMPRESSOR
  3. V_MAX

    LED, REAR LIGHTS Burned Out,

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Hear you can see that something has gone horribly wrong. The reason? Well, when the lights where assembled at the factory they somehow managed to wire them wrong (actually they didn't), with the result that they led diodes burned out but somehow the resistor ( 12,8 ohm) survived. What I found out was that "they" wired the lights wrong for old car. Instead of serial wiring ,they connected them as if they where a set of 4 Leds. (wrong resistor and over 6v. going to the led). Later I found out that I was missing two rather bulky resistors to compensate for this way of connecting the LED lights. Why Hella chose to change to this "new" and in my mind, complicated and more expensive way of connecting the lights from the old setup, that where trouble free for over 20 years, I have no idea why Hella did that. I simply wired the new LED diodes up the old way and they worked perfectly, without thees new cumbersome outside of the lights resistors.
  4. V_MAX

    New Grill

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This is the new upper and lower grill and bezels for the fog lights, with additional air intakes in the lover grill for cooling of the brakes. Looks better I think, specifically around the fog-light opening holes that cool downs the alternator on the left side.
  5. V_MAX

    M5 bumper with functional air intake.

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Just repainted and shiny. I like the sexy lines and intake bezel for the fog lamps. At this time I had not pushed the bezel all the way in place. This is a little bit different and cleaner than the closed standard fog light bezels. The left bezel for the fog lights cools down the alternator and the two in the middle are inlets to cool the brakes.
  6. V_MAX

    Clean And Simple Sills+Comfort Seats

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Clean M5 sills and comfort seats with memory, heat and air adjustment in the backrest. The memory comfort seats where not mounted in the car, when I bought it back in 2010.
  7. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    If you are thinking of buying a cold air intake, then think twice before you go out and spend your money on a aftermarket cone air filter to be fitted in the engine bay. You should also be aware of that it probably will not benefit anything, in terms of getting more cold air to the engine over the air intake you have but unfortunately often quite the opposite effect so that the engine will draw hotter air in from the engine bay, sins it is hard to eliminate the hot air in the engine bay from outside air. I had some issues with the heat in in the engine and actually got up to 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f air temp. measured inside the manifold, at standstill and idling, with outside temperature at 20°c/68°f. This heat buildup is manly due to all the tuning and modifications I have made to the engine. To tackle this heat buildup I had two simple choices, ether more cold air from the outside or an external oil cooler. I opted for both solutions and the results where that the core heat (mostly the heat of the oil) of the engine dropped from 103°c to 93°c/217°f - 199°f and air temp inside the intake manifold from 62°c. to 43°c./144°f - 109°f I bought a used air filter housing with the additional air intake spout (you can see the spout I'm talking about in the picture of the oil cooler setup "final setup") that takes air in from the wing. The hole is there on the inner side of the wing (looks like BMW anticipated a need for some more fresh air for the bigger engines) so no modifications needed. Further more, I removed the resonant baffle that potentially could restrict fresh cold air intake and finally, I shortened and opened up the main air intake that sits in the front of the radiator. The peace I removed from the air filter housing is a silencer, that looks like it should provide some venture effect. The dilemma was, does the engine need more air at lesser velocity, or less air at faster velocity? I opted for more air at a lower velocity although both would be the best of both worlds. Works fine for me and the MAF. After the air improvement I noticed that I had to rewrite and fine tune some of my bin. files, sins the engine is running cooler and colder more dens air is coming into the engine, hens more fuel can be added to the A/F ratio. That where my primary thoughts behind this mod, to gain more HP without melting the engine. The numbers speak for them self's and the problem with the rising core heat is solved.
  8. V_MAX

    KAPOW! Fix?

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This is the the best I could come up with, as remedy to halter or prevent the hoses from popping of, simply by connecting the two of them together with two hose clamps instead of one, over some fabric tape. This way the oil hoses hopefully up to a point supplement each other but is not good enough or adequate? I am still scared sh.....less that she blows on me again at the worst place in the traffic, or at 7000Rpm but so far it has stood the test. I wish the red oil can warning light was much bigger than it is, in the instrument cluster.
  9. V_MAX

    Valve spring tool.

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This is how I got the valves to stay at top and not falling down into the cylinder (no,nooo, this is not a new type of candle wick to replace the spark plug) I could have used air but this was easier. A piece of stiff rope and a clever little spring press (got it from USA) and a lot of patience to remove 24 valve seals when the piston is at TDC. A few months ago I fully rebuilt the vanos and that gave my an instant 35% better fuel economy and my engine torque back, totally worth the effort you have to to put into this backbreaking, bend over work when the engine is in the car.
  10. V_MAX

    M5 Bumper and AC Schnitzer

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This an 1997 e39 M52 b25 or BMW 523i 2,5L. There have been made some alterations to the outside of the car, mainly all the trimmings like; side skirts, rear spoiler/defuser, rear spoiler on the boot lid, mirrors (aluminum) and rear window skirt, all made by AC Schnitzer. The front wings are made of steel with an opening like an cafe grill and finally there is an M5 bumper.
  11. V_MAX

    Hotter Camshafts = More Power

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Yes, I finally did it!! Sins this is an M52 b25 engine and I did replaced the M52 intake manifold with an M50 I had lost torque in the lower rpm's and to fix that, I always knew that I needed new cams to repair this lag. I went for the cheapest option with some modifications and used a M54b30 intake cam on the intake side and an M50b25/NV (non vanos) intake cam as an exhaust cam. Both of the cams have to be modified to fit properly at a machine shop on a lathe to 2,2mm of the M50nv flange so the sprocket lines up properly and 5,00mm of the helical gear for the vanos. Also you have to take a 2mm of the bottom under side of the bolt that holds the helical gear, otherwise it will stick out of the helical gear, I don't know if that is necessary but I did it to be on the safe side. The cam specs before my mods, where M52b25: int; dur. 228°, and a 9,00mm lift on both in and exhaust. After the swap with the new/used cams; ................... dur. 240° and a 9,70mm lift on both in and exhaust. Sins the stock m52b25 cams are 110 degrees lobe center angle on intake and 101 degrees lobe center angle on exhaust I opted for a 6 degree advance for the intake cam. The M54b30 cam has a lobe center angle of 122.5 degrees, so by advancing it 6 degrees results in a lobe center angle of 116.5. The exhaust I used (intake M50b25NV) has a lobe center angle of 101 degrees. This is the same angle as stock but because it has 12 degrees more duration a total duration of 244 degrees instead of 228, it results in a much more aggressive valve closing time. One word of advice if you are going to do this setup be alert! There are lots of cams ("M54b30") for sale that are not the 9,70mm lift and 240° duration for sale on eBay. It looks like the casting numbers might be the same for M54b25 and the M54b30 but the M54b25 has only a lift of 9,00mm and duration of 228° (the same as M52b25) If you are thinking of buying a M54b30 cam then ask the seller to measure the length/height of the lobe and it should be around 47mm, anything under 47mm is not an M54b30, unless it is totally worn down and therefore ruined and useless. Furthermore, the specs for thees engines are all the same for the exhaust camshaft, that is; 9,00mm lift and 244° in duration and and inlet camshafts 9,00mm lift and 228° in duration for thees engines; M52b20TU - M52b25TU - M52b28TU - M54b25, but the the M54b30 has an inlet cam that has a lift of 9,7mm and duration of 240° exactly the same as the inlet cam for M50b20NV and inlet cam for M50b25NV. Sins those two cams match each other then it would be sensible to use them together, although both are inlet cams. The reason for not using both inlet and exhaust cams from M50b20/25 is that the exhaust cam in M50b20/25 has only a lift of 8,8mm and a duration of 228° so they do not match, witch is preferable in most cases. For some of you that have not tried it before it might be a little bit tricky to time the camshafts correctly in sins you obviously can not use standard cam blockers. I used 3D printed stop blocks to make my work easier and a micro meter but it is not that hard, ones you have the knowledge and right tools to time them correctly in. I am not going further into that hear. Sins you are in this process of changing cams you should use the opportunity to renew all 24 valve seals it would also be beneficial at this point, to rebuild the vanos seals if they are worn out. It is time-consuming and back braking to change the valve seals but worth the effort (you can read about it with an other picture) and it goes without saying, renew the valve cover gasket. As is, then I would say that I am happy with the conversion but to get good results from this work it is paramount to re-tune/re-map the ECU, otherwise things will not work properly and you only get partial benefits from this rather big conversion. I have been reading and studying RomRaider for months on end, and finally I am getting “some” sense of how the Siemens ECU “MS41” works and how to tune, read and re-flash the ECU, it is complicated in the beginning but extremely rewording and fun, ones you try to understand how the heart of the engine works, through all the different parameters of the ECU into the physical world and mechanics of the engine itself. Finally, if you are wondering if the fuel consumption is up and out of wack, or that you will not pass emissions test at MOT, then don't worry. In my case, the fuel consumption vent way down to factory specs and actually ones, under factory specs. The emission vent down to and for the first time, the exhaust is totally clean after 300 miles of driving. But, and hear comes the big but, these fine results can only come to realization if you re-tune the ECU, to accommodate for these major changes you have made to the engine.
  12. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Honestly, I have lost count of how many steering wheels I have put in my car sins I got it back in 2010 but I think this is number 4. This steering wheel is actually a SSG steering wheel, probably from a e46 that looks like a SMG wheel with a carbon film. What "they" have done is covered the hole that is between the down spokes with fiberglass or some kind of raisin and then it looks like SMG wheel with no hole in the middle then cowered it with carbon film. Unfortunately, you can not see the bottom half in this picture, but there are other pictures in my log that show the bottom half of the steering wheel. Although this is a two stage steering wheel and my car is an one stage it can be mounted with some ("mortification" some typo I made there? - ) modifications to the steering wheel stem/root and connect only one of the stages of the air bag. That said, it means that if the airbag blows, it will only give you a full blast in all cases. When connecting the paddles you need to take the paddles apart and remove one tiny resistor in each of them, otherwise they will not give a clear ground as they should (read about it in another description in my folio). If you look trough my folio you can read much more about how to mount a two stage wheel on a one stage e39 from 1997. The thing I like about this setup is that, instead of having two "Joda" ears with + and - on them on each side, I can up or downshift on bot left and right side that you can not with a SSG steering wheel. My setup is, when I push them toward me they shift up and if I push on the top they shift down. It is easy to to to convert the shifting sequins just by switching the wires. All buttons on the steering wheel are functional and no air bag warning lights in the dash.
  13. V_MAX

    Strut bar

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Strut bar on top of new shocks and springs (B12) This strut bar makes the car handle better in sharp turns and roundabouts. Motor M52b25 with M50 Manifold ECU Tuned, hotter Camshafts, bigger Fuel Injectors and Stainless Steel Headers and Exhaust amongst 50 other ongoing endless modifications
  14. V_MAX

    E39 Engine Oil Cooler Final Setup

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    With all the engine tuning modifications the inevitable core/oil heat would build up in the engine, simply because there is more horse power. You can read about what I have altered and change within the engine with other pictures. When the core heat in the engine rises, the heat in the engine compartment rises to, and that leads to amongst other things a warmer intake manifold. Consequently, that translates to warmer air when it reaches the head intake itself. Therefor it is preferable to pump cold air into the engine, sins it is denser and gives you the possibility to ad more fuel that translates then to more horsepower. The modifications where relatively simple and straightforward and not that complicated (until it explored in my face). I bought the 13 row oil cooler from a seller on eBay. The hoses had to be shortened a bit to be fitted snugly and two holes made in the bracket that hold the water radiator for the oil hoses. The oil cap was bought separately from another seller. You scold be on your toes when choosing the oil cap, sins there are some caps for sale that are missing a vital part that goes into the hole at the bottom of the oil filter housing/canister. If this hole at the bottom is not closed the engine will not reach a full oil pressure. This hole at the bottom has two purposes, one is, when you take of the original cap the oil is drained through that hole to prevent oil spill and the other is in some cases if you have a pin with two rubber seals the middle pin is hollow and has the capability to bypass oil through it and come out at the top of the inside of the cap to prevent an over pressure. As far as I know then none of these aftermarket caps have the mesh that goes inside the filter itself and finally some of the caps, use the inside part of the original cap in conjunction with the aftermarket one. My issues with the fresh intake-air heat in the intake manifold and the engine, was that it reached 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f air temp. measured inside the manifold, at standstill and idling, with outside temperature at 20°c/68°f. To tackle this heat buildup I had two simple choices, Ether more cold air from the outside or an external oil cooler. I opted for both solutions and the results where that the core heat (mostly the heat of the oil) of the engine dropped from 103°c to 93°c/217°f to199°f, or 9% lower and air temp inside the manifold from 62°c. to 43°c./144°f to 109°f., or 7%. Now, that might not seem a lot, but then this is measured at standstill and idling. When driving the numbers get much better. The original air intake plastic tunnel got the air all the way from the left middle of the front bracket and actually, partly inside of the engine compartment where there is to much warm air. As you can see I cut it over to allow cold air to come more freely in, in conjunction with an air filter box that has an additional intake from the inner side of the wing that leads to the wheel well. I am pleased with these results for now, although I'm dabbling with the idea of a larger oil cooler. Now I can continue with the fine tuning of the partial bin. files, sins all the parameters have changed due to overall a cooler engine and colder air intake. After the installation I opted for painting the cooler in mat black heat resistant paint.
  15. V_MAX

    M5 Front Bumper

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I seriously doubt that you can find a more beautiful BMW front and nicer side mirrors from Schnitzer. I later adjusted the wiper arm so now it tucks fully into the top of the bonnet.
  16. V_MAX

    Oil Cooler Hoses Route

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    The oil hoses fit perfectly in front of the water radiator but you have to drill two holes in the radiator bracket to thread the hoses and come out of the air intake hole. This is probably the easiest way to route the lines but at the cost of loosing the original air intake for the engine. Then again, it is not that bad sins you actually can shorten the air intake snout and thereby get cold fresh air in. The only "drawback" is that at full throttle you definitely can hear the engine breath with some snorkeling ruff sound. The first time I heard this sound I thought something was terribly wrong, but it is quite normal with the intake shortened and the air baffle removed from the air intake box itself. You can read more about this transition with other related pictures.
  17. V_MAX

    Oil Cooler Mockup

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Not much to say, this is just a mock up of the oil cap and the routing of the oil hoses that have to be shortened to fit perfectly. More information with picture "final setup"
  18. V_MAX

    Oil Cap Adapter and Hoses

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Not much to say, this is the oil cap and the routing of the oil hoses. There is a possibility to put the upper half of the cap in 7 different directions. More information with picture " ...final setup"
  19. Hi Guys, I'm working on a 1997 M62 540i with High Cluster and the coolant gauge refuses to come up. All wiring going into the cluster is correct, sender has been replaced. I've accessed the secret menu and KTMP on the display is giving me good temps. But the gauge needle does not move at all. Anyone experienced anything similar? I'm suspecting that somehow someone messed with the cluster coding resulting in the gauge not working. I've pulled up HEX using PASoft but have not been able to pinpoint the line which defines the temperatures and angles of the temperature gauge. Could someone maybe send me a copy of his coding so that I can compare? Thanks!
  20. V_MAX

    Oil Cap Adapter

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Not much to say, this is the oil cap and the routing of the oil hoses. There is a possibility to put the upper half of the cap in 7 different directions. "Nice" that it happened to have the BMW colors. More info with picture "final setup"
  21. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I was among them who stated that it would be hard if not impossible, to install a two stage air bag steering wheel in a one stage steering wheel car from 97' but on the contrary, it is possible to do so without getting any red airbag warning lights. It is not straight forward replacement but it is possible, by using the old clock spring, plus some modifications to the back side of the steering wheel by forming a new base for the old clock with a "aluminum epoxy" for the clock spring base, plus grinding/drilling and cutting a new hole for the plugs and wires. One stage clock spring is mounted on the steering wheel itself but two stage is mounted on the steering column itself and those are to different type of steering columns and wiring + connecting plugs. If this is done right, everything should work just fine, but with the sacrifice of loosing one of the airbag stages, so if it blows, you only get full blast instead of slightly less if you should get into a minor accident as the two stage was intended to work. I'm willing to accept a full blow and sacrifice the lesser one, not that I have any personal experience from airbags in my face. My first try was plugging into stage #2, red warning light that I had to erase but was unsuccessful. Tried stage #1 and ones again I got red light but it was easy to erase and now everything works including everything else on the steering wheel. That took me by a surprise, sins this steering wheel has 4 extra buttons that where not on the old one. This steering wheel is a little bit smaller in diameter and thicker in your hands and not as bulky at the stem, therefor it is easier to see the bottom half of the instrument panel. If you are wondering what that thing is in the right corner of the picture? I had an old original BMW telephone holder that I added USB charger to it and a fold up stand/holder for my tablet or phone.
  22. V_MAX

    Rear lights, led replacement.

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Final result, considerably brighter red lights. I'm not going to say that this is a easy thing to do. You need to have a basic nohow of electricity and how electrical tings work and lot of patience. All in all, it can take up to 4 hours to fix one light ore more but it is worth the effort, sins these light are not cheep and we should stop through things in the bin, instead of fixing them. As I mentioned earlier then these lights are an original HELLA lights but, for some reason they came wired wrongly (for my car at least) and burned out in less than an hour. The seller refunded me the cost of them so this was a fix of only £.10,00. for two brand new lights. Much later I found out, that there should have been two resistor boxes and wiring harness with these lights to compensate for the way the lights are wired up. What I did, I change the connection to the way the old lights where, that is, they are now series connected like the original ones. Why Hella decided to ad two resistors and wiring harness is a mystery to me, when the earlier setup worked fine for over 20 years without thees two boxes and wiring harness. I have had the lights for more than a year and they work perfectly so far.
  23. Hello folks. I run a 2003 e39 525i which originated in Japan before imported to Ireland a decade ago. I previously introduced it/me on this forum and was welcomed by members (some of which also run/ran Jap imports). It has a dvd navigation system hardware (dvd unit in the boot with cabling running to that passenger side compartment in the boot that houses sound/ent equip). On the screen of the headunit, however, I do not see the 'GPS Navigation ' option listed - cd/radio/computer are listed and function correctly. I run a Grom BT3 unit linked to stream content from my phone - which Dan kindly suggested to me last year. I got my hands on latest suitable dvd set of maps for this model - but, as I now realise, I get no prompts or acknowledgement when I load the disc(s). So, what / where should I check to determine what the issue may be? Is there something obvious to you (but not me) that I am missing. Full disclosure - there is a gap in my knowledge of this - but I respond well to guidance . I have a pdf of the BMW Owners manual for Onboard Computer - but as I say, the 'Navigation' menu option does not appear on the headunit screen... Thanks in advance Sid
  24. SidMac

    Sids E39 (Jap Import) thread

    Finally finding time to pull together my notes on my E39. I bought it in August 2019 at 193,446KM (that sounds like a long time ago now) fairly locally from a PO who addressed its mechanical needs, since it was the family mode of transport - but mainly used by his wife. The PO took ownership in Aug 2016 (174,550 KM) but it was originally registered in Ireland in Nov 2010 , having been imported from Japan by an Irish couple living there who brought it home to the west of Ireland. I had the good fortune to have previously owned a 2003 E39 Touring with the 2.2 M54 engine (Auto also) which, like many other owners, I slightly regret selling. Buying this saloon version was a great remedy. I am a fan of the e39 shape/design, particularly the facelift versions of later years. This example was produced in 2003. 06, making it close to one of the last builds/production runs. It is well spec'd and benefits from the M Sports suspension II, M Aerodynamics package .. among others listed below. BMW 5 series E39 525i AUTO TITAN SILVERPROD DATE 2003-06-02TYPE - 525I (EUR)SERIES - E39 (5 SERIES)BODY TYPE - LIMSTEERING - RLENGINE - M54DISP - 2.50POWER - 141 KW / 192HPDRIVE - HECKTRANS - AUTOCOLOUR - TITANSILBER METALLIC (354)UPHOLSTERY - SONDERPOLSTERUNG (Z1XX) [presents as Black Nappa leather]EDITIONS AND PACKAGESP337A - M SPORTS PACKAGES339A - SHADOW LINES705A - M SPORTS SUSPENSION IIS710A - M LEATHER STEERING WHEELS715A - M AERODYNAMICS PACKAGES785A - WHITE DIRECTION INDICATOR LIGHTSS788A - BMW LA INDIVIDUALCOMFORT AND INTERIOR EQUIPMENTS403A - GLASS ROOF ELECTRICALS423A - FLOOR MATS VELOURSS428A - WARNING TRIANGLE AND FIRST AID KITS430A - INTERIOR-OUTSIDE MIRROR WITH AUTO DIPS434A - INTERIOR TRIM FINISHERSS441A - SMOKERS PACKAGES459A - SEAT ADJUSTER ELECTRIC WITH MEMORYS470A - ISOFIX SYSTEMS473A - ARMREST FRONTS481A - SPORTS SEATS494A - SEAT HEATING DRIVER-PASSENGERMULTIMEDIAS602A - ONBOARD MONITOR WITH TVS646A - PREPARATION F TELEPH INSTALLATION JAPANS676A - HIFI SPEAKER SYSTEMS694A - PROVISION FOR BMW 6 CD-CHANGERDRIVER ASSISTANCE AND LIGHTINGS522A - XENON LIGHTSS534A - AUTOMATIC AIR CONDITIONINGS548A - KILOMETER CALIBRATED SPEEDOMETERS520A - FOG LIGHTSWHEELS AND DRIVES204A - DRIVE LAYOUT EXPORTS249A - MULTIFUNCTION STEERING WHEELS261A - SIDE AIRBAGS FOR REAR PASSENGERSS202A - STEPTRONICENVIRONMENT AND SAFETYS354A - GREEN WINDSCREEN GREEN SHADE BANDS818A - BATTERY MASTER SWITCHS823A - HOTCLIMATE VERSIONS845A - ACOUSTIC BELT WARNINGS876A - RADIO FREQUENCY 315 MHZS853A - LANGUAGE VERSION ENGLISH INDIVIDUAL EQUIPMENTS775A - HEADLINING ANTHRACITES778A - ENTRANCE STRIPS BMW INDIVIDUALOTHER EQUIPMENTL807A - NATIONAL VERSION JAPANS925A - VERSANDSCHUTZPAKETS938A - INDIVIDUAL SERIESS940A - SPECIAL EQUIPMENT BMW INDIVIDUALS431A - INTERIOR MIRROR WITH AUTOMATIC DIPS555A ONBOARD COMPUTER V WITH REMOTE CONTROL
  25. Toughguyhuh

    E39 5HP19 transmission faults

    I'm after a bit of advice regarding troubleshooting the limp mode issue in my E39 with 99k miles. I bought it cheap as a project car, knowing there was a fault and since it's not my daily driver I'm not under any pressure to sink a lot of cash into getting it back on the road. The codes it's giving are: 31 - EGS Sympton, gear monitoring 36 - EGS Gear monitoring 4 (P0734) I have already dropped the sump and given it a new filter, gasket and oil. The oil that came out looked nice and clean and the magnets didn't have much in the way of shavings. I'm fairly certain hasn't been changed previously, since I have all the service records from new and there's no mention plus a couple of the sump bolts were properly corroded and seized. I tested the solenoids in INPA and they all seem OK, but anyway these are deactivated when in limp mode and out of limp mode it goes into every gear. I also dismantled and cleaned out the selector switch to eliminate that. The gearbox temp when I've had a run in the car gets to 97 and holds, which I believe is normal. Reading around suggests an issue with the manual selector valve as it's relating to 4th gear which seems to be where the problem becomes apparent. There's a distinct slip when changing into 4th, either up or down. You can turn off the car, turn it back on and the fault indicator goes out, but when I reset the error memory I can readily recreate the same fault code after some driving. After a particularly long test drive this morning, I had some issues going from P to R, first time that's happens - it was a really rough change. Does this sound pressure related? So my next step will be to open the box up again - but that's where I need some pointers based on above. Where to start looking?