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Found 288 results

  1. So to recap, I bought my E39 530i Sport Individual auto saloon, Techno-Violet, in January 2020 from a specialist BMW dealer in Mid-Sussex, with 58,382 miles on the clock. It had two recorded owners, the dealer and the original owner. Although the vehicle was in good nick, I nevertheless embarked on a refurbishment project, whilst using it as my daily driver. During 2020 I replaced the following problem items with new, using local BMW Independent Garages: Transmission Electric Gear Selector Switch; Air Intake Bellows; Lights Control Module (LCM); Aux Electric Pusher Fan; Viscous Fan Coupling and Blade; Air-Bag recall at main BMW dealer. In addition to this, and doing the work myself, I also replaced with new: Radiator Grills; Gear Selector; Bonnet Alarm; Windscreen Washer Pump; Petrol Filler Cap; Four Door Entry Sills; Door Side Moulding; Window Moulding; Cigarette Lighter and Ashtray; Interior Courtesy light; Traffic Module Switch (TM) I also had the air con system checked out and re-gassed; carried out detailing to the car interior, and refurbished the seat belts. So, the project cost for the year 2020 (in addition to the purchase price) was £3000 approx. During 2021 I’ve continued the refurb project, still using the vehicle as my daily driver. At the start of 2021 I had the BMW major Inspection 2 service carried out (inc brake fluid change, spark plugs etc, etc) I’ve also replaced the following with new: Front anti roll bar D bushes, links, and ball joint covers; Headlight bulb; Indicator bulbs; Pirelli P Zero Front Tyres; Bonnet badge; Power steering reservoir, hoses and ATF fluid. And now, at the end of 2021, I’ve just completed the overhaul of the cooling system, replacing with new the following (see the old / new photos): Water pump and pulley; V-Belt pump/alternator; Thermostat Housing &Thermostat; Radiator (Nissens); Expansion Tank; Coolant Level Sensor; Coolant Hoses (Top, Bottom, Lower); Coolant temperature sensor; Coolant / Antifreeze (Triple QX Blue); Hose Clamps; Metal Vent Screws. note: I bought the parts, and the local BMW Indie fitted them. I baulked at replacing the auxiliary water pump as, incredibly, it costs three times as much as the main water pump. So, the project cost for the year 2021 has been £2000 approx, making a total of £5,000 to-date. What happens next in 2022 rather depends on the outcome of the MOT in January. But ideally I’d like to get done the display pixels; the PDC system; transmission oil change; and maybe suspension refurb (also maybe the auxiliary water pump and hose). But we'll have to see.
  2. V_MAX

    My Big Silver Schark

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    When this picture was taken, the left corner under the rear light was not fully fixed and painted, after reversing into a table top in my garage that I had forgotten to fold down after use, smashing the rear left light and made a hefty dent into the left underside of the rear light. I decided to buy a genuine Hella silver color rear lights, instead of the red sins the lights seem to fit the color of the car pretty well, and make the car seem a lite bit sleeker and more in harmony with the front headlights. The most pleasantly bizarre thing is that the color of the car (aspen silver/922), it constantly changes depending on the weather and the surroundings. All the images of the car are the original photos and there is no photo shopping done to any of my pictures. In this picture the color is almost like it has a purple/violet color on the upper half, and somewhat rusty red color like the sand on the bottom half. Sometimes when it is overcast it turns into stone dead dull gray. It's like it has a mood of its own.
  3. V_MAX

    Deletion Of The Throttle Body Heater

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Deleting the warm up for the throttle body housing was my last attempt to lower the intake air heat. For some reason I was reluctant for years, to delete this BMW feature. I thought to myself, that there must be some reason for going through all the trouble of designing warm-up features into the throttle housing, as if this was a piston airplane engine that you turn the carb. heat on, mostly when you are coming in for landing to prevent the carburetor to ice up and consequently, you lose all power, with a possible bad or fatal ending. I remember when I was learning to fly that you had much less power, if you forgot to cut off the carb. heat, after touch and go. I read somewhere that BMW introduced this feature due to some possibly related accidents due to a throttle body ice-up under certain weather circumstances and therefore, consequently you might end up with an open full throttle, or more likely a closed throttle with no power and a panic attack. Another hypothesis I have been rolling around in my head is; that most likely BMW introduced this to make a stable environment for the tuning of the ECU/engine, sins this would hold a steady and stable heat on the intake ambient air and smaller intake air heat variants. This would benefit the environment and lower emission sins the ECU is not coping with large swings in ambient air heat. On the other side, it bothers me that; the MS41 ECU is a magnificent peace of computer programing and all the parameters are there, to cope with amongst other tings, a different intake heat and ambient heat, so why did the engineers at BMW do this? honestly, I have not found a definite answer to that question yet. Maybe it is different for an M52 intake manifold than the M50 sins the intake plenum are much narrower on the M52 and thereby it would create higher air velocity/venturi and colder intake air to the head, this is just a speculation on my behalf but the fact is; that venturi effect drastically reduces the ambient air temperature in a carburetor up to 70° sins it partly relies on ventuti effect, due to restrictions in the neck (that is where the icing occurs in conjunction with the butterfly) of the carburetor, but in our case there are considerably little restrictions in the throttle body itself exempt the butterfly but still, there is a possibility of icing happening if the circumstances are correct. The initial tests after bypassing the water hoses leading to the throttle body and blocking of the holes show; that the water coolant, that had at times reach almost 99°c /210°f fell down to steady 87,7°c and could reach up to 88,4°c/189,9°f up to 191,1°f (that was mainly due to the oil cooler, has nothing to do with the heater bypass) and the intake temperature in the manifold fell drastically down also, from 43°c./109°f down to 24°c/76°f (that was mainly due to bypassing the throttle body heat) at standstill and idling with outside temp. at 12°c/54°f, that is a reduction of approximately 61 to 65% from the start, without the oil cooler and air intake mods, when the manifold inside heat was at 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f, with ambient temperature at 20°c/68°f. The easiest way to do this bypass is simply; loosen both of the water hoses from the throttle body and also the shorter hose to from the metal pipe. Through away the shorter one and reconnect the remaining longer one, to the metal outlet pipe from the engine, job is done and the water circulates its natural way through the pipes bypassing the throttle body. This heat reduction, gives me much more elbow room to tune the A/F ratio and timing amongst other parameters within the MS41. You can read more about my tackle with heat, with "Engine Oil Cooler Final Setup_E39_M52b25"
  4. Toughguyhuh

    E39 5HP19 transmission faults

    I'm after a bit of advice regarding troubleshooting the limp mode issue in my E39 with 99k miles. I bought it cheap as a project car, knowing there was a fault and since it's not my daily driver I'm not under any pressure to sink a lot of cash into getting it back on the road. The codes it's giving are: 31 - EGS Sympton, gear monitoring 36 - EGS Gear monitoring 4 (P0734) I have already dropped the sump and given it a new filter, gasket and oil. The oil that came out looked nice and clean and the magnets didn't have much in the way of shavings. I'm fairly certain hasn't been changed previously, since I have all the service records from new and there's no mention plus a couple of the sump bolts were properly corroded and seized. I tested the solenoids in INPA and they all seem OK, but anyway these are deactivated when in limp mode and out of limp mode it goes into every gear. I also dismantled and cleaned out the selector switch to eliminate that. The gearbox temp when I've had a run in the car gets to 97 and holds, which I believe is normal. Reading around suggests an issue with the manual selector valve as it's relating to 4th gear which seems to be where the problem becomes apparent. There's a distinct slip when changing into 4th, either up or down. You can turn off the car, turn it back on and the fault indicator goes out, but when I reset the error memory I can readily recreate the same fault code after some driving. After a particularly long test drive this morning, I had some issues going from P to R, first time that's happens - it was a really rough change. Does this sound pressure related? So my next step will be to open the box up again - but that's where I need some pointers based on above. Where to start looking?
  5. V_MAX

    The Right Side Of My BMW 2015

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    BMW e39 from February 1997, all dressed up and ready to rumble. This picture was taken back i 2015 and she looks the same today on the outside, except the air cooling intakes in the lower grill and the bezels for the fog lights have an opening to cool the alternator. Hear is the difference in looks from 2015, with pictures; New Grill & M5 bumper with functional air intake.
  6. V_MAX

    Rear lights, led replacement.

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Final result, considerably brighter red lights. I'm not going to say that this is an easy thing to do for everyone. You need to have a basic nohow of electricity and how electrical tings work with LED and a lot of patience with soldering. Altogether, it can take up to 4 hours to repair one light but it is worth the effort, sins these light are rather expensive and we should stop throwing things in the bin, instead of fixing them. These lights are an original HELLA lights but for some reason they came wired wrongly (for my car at least) and burned out in less than an hour. The seller refunded me the cost of them so this was a fix of only £.10,00. for two brand new lights. Much later I found out, that there should have been two resistor boxes and wiring harness with these lights to compensate for the way the lights are wired up. What I did was, I change the connection to the way the old lights where, that is, they are now series connected like the original ones. Why HELLA decided to ad two resistors and wiring harness is a mystery to me, when the earlier setup worked fine for over 20 years, without thees two resistor boxes and an extra two wiring harnesses at an extra cost for the buyer. I have had the lights without the "new" resistors for almost three years and they have worked perfectly so far, exempt one 12,8Ohm resistor that I did not have at the time, had to be replaced in the middle of 2021. You can red some more hear; Replacing LED - Light Diodes In The Rear Lights
  7. V_MAX

    LED, REAR LIGHTS Burned Out,

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    You can see that something has gone horribly wrong. The reason? Well, when the lights where assembled at the factory they somehow managed to wire them wrong (found out later; actually they didn't), with the result that they LED diodes burned out but somehow the resistor ( 12,8 ohm) survived. Update; until the middle of 2021 when I had to replace it. What I found out was that "HELLA" wired the lights wrong for my old car. Instead of serial wiring, they chose to connected them as if they where only a set of 2 x 4 LED`s. and added two hefty outside resistors to compensated for the way the new lights where wired up. I later I found out that I was missing those two rather bulky resistors and wiring loom to compensate for this "new" way of connecting the LED lights. Why Hella chose to change to this "new" and in my mind complicated and more expensive way of connecting the lights, from the old setup that had been trouble free for over 20 years, I have no idea why Hella did that. After exchanging the burned out LED´s with new ones, I simply wired the new LED diodes up the old way, and they worked perfectly, without the two new additional cumbersome resistors.
  8. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I thought this little information might help if you experienced some strange electrical maladies, regarding your wipers or the turn signals or parking lights that turn ON or OFF by themselves, for no apparent reason at all, or they might stop working at all. These pictures were taken back in 2016 when I had this frustrating experience. My guess is that the ignition switch might not have been fully off when the key was turned to the OFF position, I will try to explain; There are 6 contacts in the switch that have 12 contact surfaces that can get fouled up through time and give an intermediate, false contact. These contacts work in conjunction with the plastic axle that pushes on the 6 copper springs. These copper springs get weaker and slightly bent with time, so it is possible for some of the contacts to be still ON or OFF after you thought you had turned the car off or on, most often due to fouled and dirty contacts in the switch and weaker springs that push the contacts together as well as keeping them apart in conjunction with the plastic axle, respectively. In the picture you can see the contacts, at the end of the long copper springs and the axle with the lobes that push on the copper springs that are inside the switch. It is clear from the picture, that one of the springs is slightly different from the rest, it is bent and the points are open when they should have been closed. What you cannot see from the picture is, that the contacts where also eroded. It is relatively easy to replace the starter switch and if you want to see how to go about it, then you can find good video instructions on replacing the switch on YouTube. Another related thought is; if the contacts give an intermediate contact after the car was stopped and key removed, then the ECU might not turn OFF and go into sleep mode as it should after 16-17 min. but, instead the ECU and probably the LCM module is constantly running in the background and that can lead to drained battery with in few days. Sometime later, after the wiper trouble that I had not fixed, similarly strange things started happening to the turn signals. The turn signals would suddenly come on for no reason at all, without touching the indicator stalk, or they stopped working at all. I change the indicator stalk for a new one and the problem persisted. Put in a new wiper motor and still the problem persisted with the wipers. I thought to myself that there had to be some common problem, for both the wipers and the turn signals to go bad, at approximately the same time, but what? Then I read it somewhere, that my problems could be related to the starter switch! Of all things… the starter switch? It had never even entered my mind, that it could be the ignition starter switch in the steering column, but it is logical when you think about it. After removing the ignition starter switch, that has an old fashioned "contact breaker points system" inside it, I dismantled it and cleaned the points with contact solvent and fine grit sandpaper on the "points" contacts, put it back in place and all my problems vanished and no problems up til today 2021. Later that week I bought a new Ignition starter switch just to be on the safe side. I would like to ad; there could have been other things contributing to my problems like for instance; a worn out indicator stalk, worn out wiper motor, bad earth/wire or connection or the LCM (light control module). Unfortunately too often, the LCM takes the blame for other electrical problems, that are not directly related to the LCM (that is in the LCM itself) but the real electrical problems (hysteresis) sins the LCM starts to send signals due to some other electrical failures, as if something was wrong with the LCM and consequently we assume it must be the LCM. The wiper stalk and wiper motor or anything related to these two stalks on the steering column seldom read the direct fault codes to the fiscal part that has gone bad, but instead it points at the LCM. It goes without saying that the LCM can go bad for many reasons but often, I think it is the wrong diagnosis to begin with and we go out and buy a new or used one, only to find out that it was just related to the LCM. I’ll give you an example of my personal last hick up, with the LCM code that happened the other day. I had two fault code readings at the same time; the LCM was not working properly and a HAVAC code (Heater Vent Air Conditioning). It turned out to be the blower heater end resistor "hedgehog" that had conked out. This time I was lucky to get two codes at the same time, although one was half false, sins there was nothing mechanically wrong with the LCM but something related to the HAVAC. After having swapped the blower resistor for a new one, (after 24 years of faithful use, it was a PITA to change with large hands) both codes where easily erased and my problems were solved with no more fault codes on the poor LCM or the HAVAC. From my personal experience when the starter switch went bad on me back in 2016, I got no fault codes at all, directly related to the switch.
  9. V_MAX

    Hotter Camshafts = More Power

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Yes, I finally did it!! Sins this is an M52 b25 engine and I did replaced the M52 intake manifold with an M50 I had lost torque in the lower rpm's and to fix that, I always knew that I needed new cams to repair this lag. I went for the cheapest option with some modifications and used a M54b30 intake cam on the intake side and an M50b25/NV (non vanos) intake cam as an exhaust cam. Both of the cams have to be modified to fit properly at a machine shop on a lathe to 2,2mm of the M50nv flange so the sprocket for the chain lines up properly and 5,00mm of the helical gear for the vanos on the M54b30 cam. Also you have to take a 2mm of the bottom under side of the bolt that holds the helical gear, otherwise it will stick out of the helical gear, I don't know if that is necessary but I did it to be on the safe side. The cam specs before my mods, where M52b25: int; dur. 228°, and a 9,00mm lift on both in and exhaust. After the swap with the new/used cams; ................... dur. 240° and a 9,70mm lift on both in and exhaust. Sins the stock M52b25 cams are 110 degrees lobe center angle on intake and 101 degrees lobe center angle on exhaust I opted for a 6 degree advance for the intake cam. The M54b30 cam has a lobe center angle of 122.5 degrees, so by advancing it 6 degrees results in a lobe center angle of 116.5. The exhaust I used (intake M50b25NV) has a lobe center angle of 101 degrees. This is the same angle as stock but because it has 12 degrees more duration a total duration of 244 degrees instead of 228, it results in a much more aggressive valve closing time. One word of advice if you are going to do this setup, be alert! There are lots of inlet cams ("M54b30") for sale that are not the 9,70mm lift and 240° duration for sale on eBay. It looks like the casting numbers or something else might be the same, for M54b25 and the M54b30 but the M54b25 has only a lift of 9,00mm and duration of 228° (the same as M52b25) If you are thinking of buying a M54b30 cam then ask the seller to measure the length/height of the lobe and it should be around 47,6mm, anything under 47mm is not an M54b30, unless it is totally worn down and therefore ruined and useless. When I was looking for a real M54b30 cam I got offers on two of four cams, that actually where not M54b30 but most likely M54b25 and I do not think that the seller new it himself, sins he asked me for info regarding how to be sure, if it was an b25/ or b/30 cam. Furthermore, the specs for thees engines are all the same for the exhaust camshaft, that is; 9,00mm lift and 244° in duration and and inlet camshafts 9,00mm lift and 228° in duration for thees engines; M52b20TU - M52b25TU - M52b28TU - M54b25, but the the M54b30 has an inlet cam that has a lift of 9,7mm and duration of 240° exactly the same as the inlet cam for M50b20NV and inlet cam for M50b25NV. Sins those two cams ( M54b30 & M50b20/25NV) match each other then it would be sensible to use them together, although both are inlet cams. The reason for not using both inlet and exhaust cams from M50b20/25 is that the exhaust cam in M50b20/25NV has only a lift of 8,8mm and a duration of 228° so they do not match, witch is preferable in most cases. For some of you that have not tried it before, it might be a little bit difficult to time the camshafts correct in, sins you can not use standard cam blockers with the "new" camshafts, exempt the intake camshaft it could be used hear, although I went for 6° advance as I explained earlier. I used 3D printed stop blocks to make my work easier and a micro meter but it is not that hard, ones you have the knowledge and right tools to time them correctly in. I am not going further into that hear. Sins you are in this process of changing camshafts you should use the opportunity, to renew all 24 back breaking valve seals. It is time-consuming and back braking to change the valve seals but worth the effort. You can read about it with picture; One Of The Most Overlooked Mantenance The "Valve seals It would also be beneficial at this point, to rebuild the Vanos seals if they are worn out and starting to rattle and it goes without saying; renew the valve cover gasket and a good investment to get new chain guide rail's sins they get very brittle with time and new timing chain tensioners. New camshaft/Vanos sprockets and chain is in most cases not necessary but not a bad idea, if you can afford it. I did not renew those parts. As is, then I would say that I am happy with the conversion and I got most, if not all of the low end torque back, but to get good results from this work, it is paramount to re-tune/re-map the ECU, otherwise things will not work properly and you only get partial benefits from this rather big conversion. I have been reading and studying RomRaider (it is a tuning program) for months on end, and finally I am getting “some” sense of how the Siemens ECU “MS41” works and how to tune, read and re-flash the ECU, it is complicated in the beginning but extremely rewording and fun, ones you try to understand how the brain of the engine works, through all the different parameters of the ECU into the physical world and mechanics of the engine itself. Finally, if you are wondering if the fuel consumption is up and out of wack, or that you will not pass emissions test at MOT, then don't worry. In my case, the fuel consumption vent way down to factory specs and actually ones, under factory specs. The emission vent down to and for the first time, the exhaust is totally clean after 300 miles of driving. But, and hear comes the big But, these fine results can only come to realization if you re-tune the ECU, to accommodate for these major changes you have made to the engine. More about valve seals and cams hear; Valve Spring Tool And Valve Seals
  10. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I was among them who stated that it would be hard if not impossible, to install a two stage airbag steering wheel in a one stage steering wheel car from 97' but on the contrary, it is possible without getting any red airbag warning lights. This is not a straight forward replacement but it is possible, by using the old clock spring, plus some modifications to the back side of the steering wheel by forming a new base for the old clock with an "aluminum epoxy" for the clock spring base, plus grinding/drilling and cutting a new hole for the plugs and wires and on top of that, you definitely need a new clock spring made for heated steering wheel, if you are going to put in a steering wheel with flaps. Hear are related pictures; #3 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel #4 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel #5 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel A one stage clock spring is mounted on the steering wheel itself, but two stage is mounted on the steering column itself. These are to different type of steering columns and spring clocks, also the wiring connection plugs are different. If this is done right, everything should work just fine, but with the sacrifice of loosing one of the airbag stages, so if it blows, you only get full blast in your face, instead of slightly less if you should get into a minor accident as the two stage was intended to work. I'm willing to accept a full blow and sacrifice the lesser one, not that I have any personal experience from airbags in my face. My first try was plugging into stage #2, red warning light that I had to erase but was unsuccessful. Tried stage #1 and ones again, I got red light but it was easy to erase and now everything works, including everything else on the steering wheel. That took me by a surprise, sins this steering wheel has 4 extra buttons that where not on the old one. This steering wheel is a little bit smaller in diameter and thicker in your hands and not as bulky at the stem, therefor it is easier to see the bottom half of the instrument panel. If you are wondering what that thing is in the right corner of the picture? I had an old original BMW telephone holder that I added USB charger to it and a fold up stand/holder for my tablet or phone. My latest steering wheel with integrated "paddle" shifter, seen inside the car; SSG-SMG Steering Wheel With Flaps in e39 from Feb.1997-/04.04.2021 and with the new Android display; 9' Head Unit
  11. V_MAX

    Camelpower vs. Horspower vs. Duckpower

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I simply could not resist taking this picture when these camels came to visit us hear up north and so far from home. I have read somewhere that a camel puts out 765 watts power and compare it to horsepower that only puts out 745 watts. Maby we should start measuring our engine in Camelpower or Duckpower for more power, just multiply your horses by 131,2 and vola! your 190 horsepower engine turns out 24.928 Duckpower Think about it! you could say to your mate I hawe 24.928 Duckpower! Strange and out of place animals to say the least Think I was far to long in covid quarantine when I figured this out in 2021.
  12. Basher525i

    No obd port

    Right, so I've had an engine light come up, I'm hoping It's just an emissions light. But the obd2 socket next to the drivers right leg is empty, there is the socket but no electrical connection inside, and no other ports I can see in either side. There is also no round 20 pin connector under the bonnet that I can see, unless it's somewhere really hidden. It's a 2001 525i, and I thought all cars sold were supposed to have obd2 before this car was sold. Anyone else had a similar problem?
  13. For sale is a whole set of a factory sport suspension for 6 cylinder saloon e39 5 series. Front ones might also fit touring models, but please do your own checks beforehand. Set consist of: 2 front shock absorbers - 31 31 1 096 857 - genuine Sachs Advantage / BMW Sport shocks 2 rear shock absorbers - 33 52 1 091 922 - genuine Sachs Advantage / BMW Sport shocks 2 front springs - genuine BMW Sport / M Technic spring - part number unknow. 2 rear spring - genuine BMW Sport / M Technic spring - part number unknow. All four shocks are in good useable condition without any leaks. Front springs are good condition with just some surface rust and some paint peelng off. Rear springs have snapped on the smallest coil - on both sides (yours if you want them) Also included are 2 front bump stops (one is split) and front spring pads. Removed from a 2001 e39 525i fitted with optional S704 M Sports suspension. A nice upgrade to any standard SE suspension giving you also a 15mm drop in ride height. Price is £100 for the whole set or I might split it in pairs: Front shocks - £40 Rear shocks - £40 Front springs - £40 Rear springs will come free if you want them, or I will bin them. All prices include P&P (except for rear springs) Collection in person from New Milton in Hampshire also available at a discounted price. Please contact me with your requirements and also check my other items, as I'm having a garage clear out.
  14. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    In case, as I experienced when I mistakenly bought a two stage airbag steering wheel, instead of one stage for my car, I would like to give this advice to any one who is thinking of getting a new or refurbished steering wheel. These are two different type of steering wheels, on the left is a one stage airbag wheel and on the right is a two stage airbag wheel. It is nearly impossible to put a two stage wheel, in a car that was born with one stage steering wheel without some major modifications. My advice and 2c, do not try to attempt to do that conversion, unless you have a good understanding on reprogramming the ECU bin. files, (that is if you decide to convert it to a functional two stage airbag car) and a fairly good understanding of your car wiring. So far, I have not heard of anyone that has made this conversion 100% to the specs and correct......> BUT, there is an "easier" way around this, by scarifying one of the stages of the airbag, thereby it becomes a one stage airbag steering wheel, like the one you have in the older BMW´s like mine from 1997. You can read more with; Two Stage Airbag On One Stage Configuration. Sins writing this above in 2016, I have installed the two stage steering wheel, back in late 2018 and I got it to works perfectly as an one stage air bag steering wheel. Everything works perfectly, including all the control buttons, without getting the red airbag warning light! and again in late 2020 I installed ones again a "new", two stage steering wheel with shifter flaps, with the same positive results You can read more about how to make this changeover with other pictures and "info" I have in my portfolio. #3 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel #4 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel #5 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel
  15. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Wishful thinking? This is what I would like to see on my speedo Actually, this is one of two Ohm resistant measurements for one of the steering wheel flap/pad, the up shift gives you a Ohm reading of 1008 Ohm with the resistors on the electrical boards in the flaps. That is why I had to remove the two tiny 2mm (if I remember right, then I think it was 2 resistors on one of them and only 1 on the other) resistors on each circuit board to fully separate the connection to get two clear signal-poles for up and downshift with less than 0.04 Ohm. All bells and whistles worked fully as intended on the steering wheel, that is, both paddles work the same way. When you pull on the flap it shifts into a higher gear and push on the top for downshifting. It was my chose to have it this way but I could easily have made a split, so that one paddle would have a downshift and vice versa. This a modified SSG that looks like SMG wheel with two stage airbag, paddle shift, steering wheel that is fully functional without any red warning lights on a one stage e39 from '97 that was borne/manufactured with one stage air bag steering wheel and no flaps. You can read more about the resistors with picture; #7 SSG-Circuit Board For The Flaps You can read more about two stage wheels vs. one stage with other pictures to.
  16. V_MAX

    Clean And Simple Sills+Comfort Seats

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Clean M5 sills and comfort seats with memory, heat and air adjustment in the backrest. The memory comfort seats where not mounted in the car when I bought it back in 2010 it had leather manual sport seats, but originally it came with fabric cowered seats.
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    "New" Larger M50 Manifold

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Engine M52b25 with M50 Manifold "Chip-Tuned". Actually there was a soldered chip inside the ECU module. It was a no good sun of a B.. junk "tuning" the only thing that was so called "tuned" was the "ignition base timing " everything else was untouched from stock. The ignition timing was completely out of proportion and sky high to the point where it would overheat the engine. Still to this day, I can not understand how the engine survived that heat during the summer time. I knew it was always running a bit on the hotter side but had a hard time finding the real reason. It only proofs, how good the MS41 ECU is when it comes to adaptations, but this was to much for it to adapt to. 10 years later I found this out regarding the bad, irresponsible "tuning" out of pure frustration after an unsuccessful hunt, for a reputable tuner in my vicinity, when I decided to start learning the basics of tuning the engine and ECU myself, instead of relying on others, that I could not even find anywhere close to where I live. It has given me a great joy and freedom to be able to read and write to the ECU and simultaneously given me a greater understanding of how everything comes together, in a fine harmony of power. You can compare it to M52 manifold hear; "The Old Considerably Smaller M52 Manifold"
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    M50 Manifold On M52b25 Engine

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    First I had to find a good M50 manifold and modify it "M50 manifold and modification to M52" & "M50, manifold modification 2" so all the pluming would work as intended. I also had to make some minor modifications to the power steering reservoir and fuel rail bracket, no big deal. Sins writing this in 2015 I have exchanged the fuel injectors to 116,87% larger injectors, new larger camshafts, oil cooler, refurbished the vanos seals, renewed all 24 valve stem seals, 6 new coils, modified the cold air intake, bypassed/disconnected the throttle body heat, new and larger viscose fan and coupling for hotter climate, 2 upper oxygen sensors and remapped all the fuel maps, vanos maps, timing maps amongst some other maps in the ECU. The result was a better fuel economy and better emission numbers, more power and responsive engine and cleaner exhaust without a trace of oil or any black soot on the end pipes, all this was done in 2019 to 2021 and going onward with fine tuning of the ECU. Now that everything is taken apart it is a good opportunity to replace old and brittle plastic and rubber parts like the oil housing rubber gasket that usually is hard to get to. Obviously there will be some loss of torque with this modification under 3500rpm. but after that, there is a lot of gain in your smile . Unless your daily driving is mostly on long steep roads for longer time, then I highly recommend this rather simple conversion . The only way to compensate for the loss of torque is replacing both of the standard camshafts that came with the M52b25/30 with two new/used ones; intake cam from M54b30 for the intake and another INTAKE cam from M50NV for the EXHAUST sound crazy but that is the rout to go. You have to perform minor modifications on both of the replacement cams. (you can read more about the camshafts with other pictures, there is a rabbit hole, you should be aware of when buying a M54B30 camshafts, that you might fall into) more info. with; "Hotter Camshafts = More Power" After having made this conversion I found out, that I have kind of, maxed out my fuel injectors A/F, they where the green Bosch (0 280 150 415) capable of around 124,32g/min, therefore I have replace them with bigger "Bosch 0 280 155 830" (blue-grayish) these are newer type EV- 6 injectors without an interchangeable pintle cap. The 0 280 155 830 injectors are capable of 269,61 g/min, or 116,87,% higher fuel delivery capacity than the original small ones that I previously used from the start. It goes without saying that remapping the ECU is mandatory sins the 830´s have the capability of much more fuel delivery from the get-go. Consequently I have rewritten all maps related to fuel and vanos accordingly. This is where "MS41 Quickflash", "RomRaider", "MLV" and MS Excel come into play, to remap the ECU. You can read more about the new injectors hear; 116% Larger Fuel Injectors The final message is; do not change to higher capacity fuel injectors in hope of getting more horses out of the engine, it does not work that way, it only drowns the horses you had, to much fuel does not teach them to swim, instead of running. In most cases the standard injectors that came with the engine are cable of delivering more than enough fuel, despite some minor tuning. Larger capacity injectors apply if you are going for a turbo or compressor or as in my case, larger cams, m50 intake manifold and headers with free flow exhaust and a rather small injectors to start with, capable of only 124,32g/min, and still, they might have worked out, but they where the older type of injectors and worn out, beside I wanted to have more buffer on the tuning if I would install a compressor or turbo. I say again; If you are going to do this modifications; I would recommend, that the ECU should be remapped/tuned by someone who knows what he or she is doing to get the most out of this modifications and with new larger fuel injectors you HAVE to remap the ECU, there is no way around it. You can just let it be as is, with the standard tuned ECU with only the M50 manifold swap and the current fuel injectors and you will get some adaptation up to a certain point from the ECU, but not the full benefits as by remapping of the ECU accordingly, to the new larger intake manifold. All I need now is a COMPRESSOR
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    Boot Or Trunk Spaghetti

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    That’s how 15 wires of broken mess looked like on my car (someone had obviously been hear before me) and somehow they worked with the exception of the light in the boot and to often, a bulb in the rear lights would blow for no reason, except that the wires must have touch each other and or earth. Replacing the wires was no fun but necessary replacement after 18 years of use. It was small a challenge rewiring the boot wires but still not that difficult job, if you just take your time and only do one wire at a time to prevent mixing up the wires. Some wires might have same color but different purpose. To make the job easier, you can buy a set of replacement wires online, for the e39 and other models of BMW.
  20. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Honestly, I have lost count of how many steering wheels I have put in my car sins I got it back in 2010 but I think this is number 4. This steering wheel is actually a SSG steering wheel, probably from a e46 that looks like a SMG wheel with a carbon film. What "they" did is they covered the hole that is between the down spokes with fiberglass or some kind of raisin and then it looks like SMG wheel with no hole in the middle and then cowered it with carbon film. Unfortunately, you can not see the bottom half in this picture, but there are other pictures in my log that show the bottom half of the steering wheel. Although this is a two stage steering wheel and my car is a one stage it can be mounted with some modifications to the steering wheel stem/root for the new clock-spring that is from a steering wheel with heating capability and connect only one of the stages of the air bag. That said, it means that if the airbag blows, it will only give you a full blast in all cases. When connecting the paddles you need to take the paddles apart and remove two tiny(2mm) resistor in each of them (corr. I think that was only 1 resistor on one of them and 2 on the other one, you will see them when you open them up), otherwise they will not give a clear ground as they should (read about it in another description in my folio). If you look trough my folio you can read much more about how to mount a two stage wheel on a one stage e39 from 1997. #7 SSG-Circuit Board For The Flaps The thing I like about this setup is that, instead of having two "Yoda" ears with + and - on them on each side, I now have two cuddly soft cat ears . With the SSG paddles I can both up or downshift on bot left and right side that you can not with a SMG + and - shifters as far as I know. My setup is; when I pull them toward me, they shift up and if I push on the top, they shift down. It is easy to convert the shifting sequins just by switching the wires. All buttons on the steering wheel are functional and no air bag warning lights in the dash.
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    M5 Bumper and AC Schnitzer

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This an 1997 e39 M52 b25 or BMW 523i 2,5L. There have been made some alterations to the outside look of the car that came as a kit from AC Schnitzer , namely; the side skirts on the sills, rear spoiler/diffuser, boot lid spoiler, rear window skirt and heated electrical mirrors in aluminum housing. The car also came with a spoiler for the old standard front bumper that is no longer on sins I replaced it for the M5 bumper. The front wings are made out of steel with an opening for the "side airflow vents" very fancy description, especially when they do not vent a thing but, actually it is possible to make them fully functional to vent the engine compartment (maybe that could be a project in the future, if I'm bored) and finally there is the M5 bumper. You can better see the hole in the outside of the wing hear; "Paint/Pain Work At Stage One"
  22. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    If you are thinking of buying a cold air intake, then think twice before you go out and spend your money on a aftermarket cone air filter to be fitted in the engine bay. You should also be aware of that it probably will not benefit anything, in terms of getting more cold air to the engine over the air intake you have but unfortunately often quite the opposite effect so that the engine will draw hotter air in from the engine bay, sins it is hard to eliminate the hot air in the engine bay from outside air. I had some issues with the heat in in the engine and actually got up to 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f air temp. measured inside the manifold, at standstill and idling, with outside temperature at 20°c/68°f. This heat buildup is manly due to all the tuning and modifications I have made to the engine. To tackle this heat buildup I had two simple choices, ether more cold air from the outside or an external oil cooler. I opted for both solutions and the results where that the core heat (mostly the heat of the oil) of the engine dropped from 103°c to 93°c/217°f - 199°f and air temp inside the intake manifold from 62°c. to 43°c./144°f - 109°f (later I deleted the throttle body heat and got much better numbers, you can read about it with other picture)" Deletion Of The Throttle Body Heater " and "Engine Oil Cooler Final Setup_E39_M52b25" I bought a used air filter housing with the additional air intake spout.You can see the spout or pipe I'm talking about with the "Engine Oil Cooler Final Setup_E39_M52b25" that takes air in from the wing. The hole is there on the inner side of the wing (looks like BMW anticipated a need for some more fresh air for the bigger engines) so no modifications needed. I also, removed the resonant baffle that potentially could restrict fresh cold air intake and finally, I shortened and opened up the main air intake that is in the front of the radiator. The peace I removed from the air filter housing is a silencer, that looks like it should provide some venturi effect. There is one more thing, I experimented with on the air intake that did not work for me at all, and that has to do with the small "bellow/box" peace that sits under the air filter box and is fastened with one screw to the main filter box and is connected to the big rubber intake hose, that connects the air filter box to the throttle body. I removed the mini box and blocked the hole for this little bellow, box experiment that I think is probably meant as an silencer and also a kind of equalizer or buffer in air distribution to the engine. The results of removing this box is that you can distinctively hear the engine snarling for the air on WOT. First time I heard this growl I thought something was off with the engine, until I realized the ruff noise was because of the missing little box. Consequently I decided to put it back in its place. I can still hear the ruff growl noise, but not nearly as much, as without the bellow box, growler killer. The dilemma was, does the engine need more air at lesser velocity, or less air at faster velocity? I opted for more air at a lower velocity although both would be the best of both worlds. Works fine for me and the MAF. After the air improvement I noticed that I had to rewrite and fine tune some of my bin. files. Now the engine is running cooler and colder more dens air is coming into the engine, hens more fuel can be added to the A/F ratio. That where my primary thoughts behind this mod, to gain more HP without melting the engine. The numbers speak for them self's and the problem with the rising core heat is solved.
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    Oil Cap Adapter

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Not much to say other than, this is the oil cap that replaces the original one and the routing of the oil hoses. There is a possibility to put the upper half of the cap in 7 different positions to direct the hoses the least resistant way. "Nice" that it happened to have the BMW colors. More info with picture "final setup"Engine Oil Cooler Final Setup_E39_M52b25" You can clearly see on this picture that I have opted to change the water thermostat housing to an solid aluminum housing, instead of the endlessly warping and leaking plastic housing.
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    New Grill

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This is the new upper and lower grill and bezels for the fog lights, with additional air intakes in the lower grill for cooling of the brakes. Looks better I think, specifically around the fog-light opening holes that cools downs the alternator on the left side.
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    KAPOW! Fix?

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This is the the best I could come up with, as remedy to halter or prevent the hoses from popping of "KAPOW! Blown Main Artery, She Lost 2 Gallon of Oil In No Time! at all!@#/$* " is simply by connecting the two of them together with two hose clamps instead of one, over some fabric tape. Hopefully this way the oil hoses supplement each other but is it not good enough ? or adequate for me to feel 100% safe. I am still scared sh.....less that she blows on me again at the worst place in the traffic, or at 7000rpm. but so far it has stood the test. Update after two months; so far they have held up to 7000rpm. knock! on wood. I wish the red oil can warning light was much bigger than it is, in the instrument cluster.
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