Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'e34'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Rules & FAQs
    • Rules & FAQ's
  • Sponsors
    • Chris Knott Insurance services
    • Cotswold BMW
    • MStyle
    • BMW Cables
  • General
    • Hello I'm New
    • General Discussion
    • Picture & Video Gallery
    • Suppliers
    • Fun Stuff
    • Spotted
  • Meets & Events
    • BMW5 Meets & Events
    • Non BMW5 Trackdays
    • Other Meets & Events
  • Classifieds
    • Cars
    • Parts & Breakers
    • Wheels & Tyres
    • General Items
    • Wanted
    • eBay & Autotrader Adverts
  • Technical
    • E12 1972-1981
    • E28 1982-1988
    • E34 1988-1996
    • E39 1996-2004
    • E60/E61 2004-2010
    • F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
    • G30/G31 2017-
    • ///M Powered
    • ALPINA 5ers
    • Audio & Navigation
    • Intravee
    • Diagnostics
    • Coding
    • Detailing
    • Projects
    • Track Talk
  • Other BMW Technical
    • 1 Series
    • 2 Series
    • 3 Series
    • 4 Series
    • 6 Series
    • 7 Series
    • 8 Series
    • i Series
    • X Series
    • Z Series
    • Other BMW Tech Talk
  • Other Technical
    • Other Marques
    • Computer General Help

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



Website URL





Found 169 results

  1. I have recently decided to go back to original 15" BBS wheels for my E34, so the M5 Throwing Stars are now for sale. This is a set of x5 genuine BMW Throwing Star (style 21) staggered forged alloy wheels set, including tyres. All the wheels are in used, but excellent overall condition without any structural damage - no buckles, cracks or welds. These are straight forged wheels, which I used on my car for 2+ years without any issues - no vibrations or balancing problems. There's very minor cosmetic kerbing damage on all the wheels and slight paint bubbling on the star covers. The worst bits are shown on the photos #6 and #7, but apart from that, the wheels and the covers are in very presentable condition. This is a genuine BMW staggered wheel set, specifically for E34 M5 fitment, with correct directional magnesium star covers (2 left + 2 right), plastic centre caps and factory-size tyres. The front wheels are 17x8J ET20 (part number: 36112226706) with 235/45/R17 94Y tyres, which are Continental ContiPremiumContact 6 (dated 1018) and Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 (dated 1318). The rear wheels are 17x9J ET22 (part number: 36112226707) with 255/40/R17 98Y tyres, which both are Toyo Proxes Sport (dated 4318). All the tyres are in perfect condition throughout, having approximately 7-8mm of tread left, and without any cuts, bulges or puncture repairs. The spare wheel (shown on photo #11) is 17x8J ET20 (part number: 36112226706) with 235/45/R17 94W tyre, which is Falken Ziex ZE912. It has approximately 5mm of tread and is in overall good condition. Please note, there's no plastic centre cap for the spare wheel. All 5 star covers have correct genuine BMW fillister head screws (part number: 36112227124) installed, which I bought back in 2017. The badges on the centre caps were also replaced with genuine BMW stickers (part number: 36136758569) at the same time. The wheels will need to be collected in person from London, SW6 and cash paid on collection. The price for the whole set is £1450. Open to sensible offers, so if you have a reasonable price in mind, then let me know. Thanks for looking.
  2. siarach

    E34 #68 Fault Code

    Hi Guys, My 95 520i has got a lumpy Idle, stalls out, generally running rough, it has thrown up fault code 68? Where do i look?? Any advice gratefully accepted. Regards John M
  3. Leo aka Horse-On-Wheels_MS

    BMW E34 525IX By howms

    Hello all, I wanted to start a thread and share my story on my E34Ix that I acquired totally by accident last year in November without seeing it or test driving it! (what could've gone wrong lol), and how I discovered that I bought an absolute lemon(that is somewhat worth saving) The story: Back in September 2019, I had saved up and then I was looking for a project car that I can use to commute and I was in the market mostly for an e30 or e36 and I would only consider an e34 and e39 under certain conditions and one day I was scrolling through an overpriced e30 and I caught a glimpse of an e34 and as I looked into it and found out it was an ix which is quite rare now especially in red, as I thought it would be a good base to put down more power or I could rwd it if I don't fancy it down the line, my biggest concern was it being a cloth interior automatic(wanted a manual) with a tired paintwork but I went for it anyway so the journey begins by paying £1.7k for the damn thing... Specsheet: Better picture coming soon
  4. Frampton518i

    E34 door card screw

    I have just fixed my electric window on the driver side of my 518i and have lost the screw that fits underneath the door handle. Anyone able to tell me the size of this screw? Would be much appreciated thank you very much
  5. Hey everyone, Decided to start a project thread for my E34 525i, as I've learned a lot from this and other forums before I actually bought the car and while working on it, so I thought sharing my ownership experience will help others to know what to expect from this car and make it easier to get the right parts, know what's involved in the jobs, etc. Having previously owned an E30 325i for over 3 years, one thing I learned about old BMWs is that if you get one with more or less rust-free bodywork, then all the rest of the car, i.e. engine/brakes/suspension can be pretty easily sorted, assuming you haven't bought a completely thrashed example. The reason why I sold my E30 was simply rust - it was everywhere you could imagine - sills, jacking points, front/rear arches, rear panel, front panel and even the roof (it was a sunroof model). To make it 100% right, it would have to be a complete restoration... As much as I love old BMWs, I didn't really want to go through the same things over again with an E34, so I spent literally 1 year looking for one...It had to be a manual, it had to be a 525i and most importantly it had to be in a reasonable condition bodywork-wise. Based on what I've seen and read, E34s rust very similar to other BMWs from the same era, so watch out for rusty jacking points and generally sills, especially on models that had side skirts fitted, then front and rear arches can be bad too (although the front wings can be replaced easily), then the boot lid is quite common to rust on E34s (around the number plate lights and around the edge that meets the rear panel), the bottoms of the doors, where you've got mouldings fitted, around the fuel flap area, and if you are looking at a sunroof model, then you have to be even more careful as the cassettes can be a bit rusty, although roof rust on E34s doesn't seem as common as on E30s. Clearly, the list of possible rust spots is quite extensive, so as I mentioned earlier, when you are looking for an E34, you are looking at bodywork first and all the rest of it second. Engine-wise, it had to be at least a 6 cylinder model for me, because anything less in my opinion, is a bit too slow...525i is a great choice for everything, including performance, economy and maintenance. I've seen a few 540i for sale, but I wanted a manual, so knowing how rare they are in the UK, the prices were unrealistic for me and to be honest, the ones I've seen weren't in the best conditions either. Long story short, just when I was about to give up my search for a decent E34, as I also kept an eye for a more modern E90 330i (no rust, less hassle overall), one unbelievably clean 525i came up for sale and I knew I had to go for it, because otherwise I was simply going to buy an E90, since I was seriously tired of searching. It's a 1993 saloon, pre-facelift model in diamantschwarz metallic with a M50B25TU engine and a manual gearbox. Yes, it does have a sunroof, but after removing the door seals to check the roof, it looks all clean there, although the sunroof cassette does have a few chips on it, they don't bother me at all. The rear jacking points are clean, the fronts are slightly rusty, the rear arches are bubbling a bit on the lower edges, the boot lid is ok, some rust on the bottom of the driver's door and underneath it's pretty clean as well. Grey cloth interior, no A/C (thank god), a sagging headliner and worn wiper linkage - overall, it's still a museum example compared to the E30 that I had... The car did come with a lot of original paperwork, previous MOTs and service history, but I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance and doing things myself, because I like when my cars are 100% mechanically perfect. After scouring the BMW forums all over the Internet, I started making up the list of required parts... Starting with the basic things first, I bought Shell Helix HX7 10W40 engine oil with Mann oil filter, Mann air filter and Valvoline engine flush. Also bought a Gold Plug magnetic sump plug - not sure if they are worth it, but otherwise I would advise getting a new genuine BMW plug and washer. Then moving onto other things as below: Bosch fuel filter - part number: 0 450 905 030 Bosch spark plugs (x6) - part number: 0 242 235 668 (25k miles replacement interval) Bosch Super Plus wiper blades - I initially bought more modern aero wipers, but when it came to fitting them, I didn't realise that E34s had a "reverse hook" wiper on the driver's side. There are various modifications you can do to fit whatever wipers you like, but I decided to stick to OEM and just bought E34-specific regular wipers from ECP with correct fitment. Dayco fan belt (6PK x 1558) - didn't go for a BMW belt, because it was about 40 quid from a dealer, while Dayco was just a tenner from ECP, and Dayco is a quality OEM parts manufacturer anyway, so no problems here. Now an important thing to know about M50 engines is that some of them came with a mechanical tensioner and some with hydraulic one. Done a lot of reading on this and the common recommendation is to replace the mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic one. Luckily INA and other parts manufacturers sell ready kits for doing this, so what I've done is bought a hydraulic tensioner kit and also the free-spinning roller for the alternator. INA hydraulic tensioner kit - part number: 533 0097 10 INA roller - part number: 532 0418 10 Keep in mind, if you have A/C fitted, then you'll also need to buy the A/C belt as well as the tensioner kit for the A/C. Moving onto the cooling side of things - my radiator was swollen on the top for some reason, so I definitely needed a replacement radiator. BMW advised the radiator and the bottle were sold separately and they quoted around £300 for everything, while I was looking at 100 quid tops for a complete rad/bottle online from various reputable makes. Make sure you check properly which radiator you have, because A/C and non A/C models have different size rads (520mm) and automatic cars have different rads as well. After measuring mine, I started looking for the most basic 440mm radiator for manual cars - BMW part number: 17 11 1 712 982 There's a quite large choice of various makes for radiators, but I wanted to stay on the OEM side as much possible, however since the BMW rad was way too pricy, I decided that BEHR/Hella would be a great alternative, since they are a well-known OEM parts manufacturer. I ordered my radiator from http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/ and it came from Germany, as it was not available anywhere in the UK. Here's the part number for my BEHR/Hella 440mm radiator: 8MK 376 717-461 It was a 100% perfect fit, the only issue we had with it, is that it didn't come with a hole for a coolant level sensor, however you can easily modify it, making a hole where the sensor goes, because otherwise it all fits excellent. I paid just under £100 for it, including delivery, so very happy with it. Then I also bought the fan clutch made by Borg Warner/BEHR/BERU. BEHR fan clutch - part number: 8MV 376 732-231 Sachs fan clutch - part number: 2100 012 131 All are OEM makes, so go for whatever you can find. ECP shows BERU on their website, but the box came labelled Borg Warner, so I'm fine with that. The water pump was about £130 genuine from BMW, which I thought was a bit too much, since I managed to get a HEPU one from ECP for less than £50 and again, HEPU are a decent German brand. HEPU water pump (comes with a gasket) - part number: P472 For the thermostat, first I went with Circoli, but after reading some horror stories about them online, I decided to go genuine BMW and paid £50 for a thermostat and a gasket from BMW. You can either buy a 88 degrees thermostat or 92 one from BMW and all they advise is to check what you already have fitted before you order, which seems a bit silly to me, because these cars are over 20 years old and you don't know whether the stat fitted in the past was the correct spec or not? To be honest, I doubt there will be any catastrophic difference if you go for either of them. Anyway, I decided to go for the 92 degrees thermostat, so the BMW part number you'll need is: 11 53 7 511 083. The gasket comes separate (part no: 11 53 1 265 084) and also make sure to get the thermostat housing gasket - part number: 11 53 1 740 437. I wasn't too fussed about getting specific anti-freeze, so I just went with basic blue 2-year Triple QX anti-freeze that ECP sells and got 5 litres ready mixed for about 8 quid. Also bought some Wynn's white grease to lubricate the door, bonnet and boot lid hinges + locks. To break up the big pile of text above, here's a picture for you to show what it all looked like: And here's the difference between a genuine BMW thermostat and a Circoli one. What I didn't know is that the one made by BMW is actually a Wahler thermostat and you could get the exact same thermostat from eBay for about £30, but obviously it won't have no BMW logo or part number on it, although it will be the same part. Goes to show how dealers make their money on parts. I also bought a few parts from BMW directly, because I thought the price was sensible and also some things are better when they are genuine BMW. It looked like that my valve cover gasket was leaking a bit of oil, so we decided it would be a good idea to replace it, so here's what I got. BMW valve cover gasket kit - part number: 11 12 0 034 107 (keep in mind this is for vehicles fitted with VANOS, so if yours is the older engine, then the part number will be different) BMW valve cover rubber washer seals - part number: 11 12 1 437 395 (you'll need 15 of these) I also bought a genuine engine oil cap (says BMW recommends Castrol on it) - part number: 11 12 7 509 328 And a BMW cap for the radiator as well - part number: 17 11 7 639 022 A common issue with E34 bonnets is that they don't "shoot out" properly, when you pull the bonnet release handle. The usual cause of this are tired bonnet shocks, so I bought a pair from BMW, which cured this problem. BMW bonnet struts (not sided and you'll need 2) - part number: 51 23 1 944 119 They do come with the mounting clips for both ends, so there's no need to buy them separately, although I didn't know that and bought them as well. The shocks are about £30 each, so I guess not too bad, considering you change them once in 20 years. And the finishing touch was the BMW boot lid badge that I bought along with the grommets, as mine was fading away and I wanted to replace it. As far as I know, it applies to the bonnet as well. BMW boot lid badge - part number: 51 14 8 132 375 There are two types of grommets you can order and I'm not sure what's difference, however I had black rubber type fitted on mine: Black badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 807 495 White badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 852 899 And here's a pic of the BMW bits: And that's it. You can see it's quite a lot of parts that I bought and to be honest you don't necessarily HAVE to go this crazy when servicing your E34, but as I mentioned in the beginning of this thread - I like when everything is 100% perfect with my cars, so I prefer to do it once and do it right. This post is getting a bit too long, so I'll finish the story here and I'll update the thread a bit later with a few pictures of how we actually replaced all of the above and then my plans for the next service work on my E34. I want to make this car drive, handle and feel exactly the same as it left the factory, so let's see if I can manage to do it. Thanks for following and any tips/advice much appreciated.
  6. krchooe34

    What’s this hose?

    I noticed this hose was loose and I have no idea where it goes pls help lol. This is a 1990 BMW 535 with an M30 under the hood.
  7. alex525

    Suspension question

    Dumb question time, what is the difference between the gas strut inserts from sedan and wagon and are they interchangeable?
  8. siarach

    E34 Not Starting

    Hi Folks, just joined your Forum and as you prob guess I need some help. I have a 1995 E34 520i that I have owned since 2001 and it has literally never let me down until now. I took it in to the shed to change out the wiper linkage which was a horrible job but never the less completed only to find that I cant get the car started! No Spark, No Fuel, various experts have been looking at it and I seem to be throwing money at various sensors etc to no avail. I have followed through the various test procedures and came up with very little aprt from a dropped voltage at the Fuel pump (6 Volts). Any advice on how to move fwd with this will be greatfully accepted. Regards John
  9. alex525

    Trans fluid

    Could anyone tell me how to top up the trans oil in a 5hp auto it’s the model without the dip stick . Any help is greatly appreciated. Alex

    1994 BMW E34 540I - GF22093

    Hello And Welcome I'm a firm believer that somethings are just meant to be and today that philosophy come bouncing into play much like it did with the Silver Unit ( Butler HQs Original Silver 540i ) Today innocently going to view an E34 with my Poppa ( Carl-E34 ).. 100 + miles from home as you do on arrival I became strongly attached to this diamond in the rough I couldn't help but think with a little Butler HQ love It could make a very special E34 and I truly thought that maybe Butler HQ was its last hope. Shes defiantly a project make no mistake about that but what else are you gonna do on a cold damp winter weekend ? before I could pull myself away as in the worlds of the late Marlon Brando the seller made me an offer I couldn't refuse... and a deal was done. I'll be embarking on this project with one person in mind. Tomorrow will be the full fat first update with all the great and gory details. Comments Welcome.
  11. alex525

    Which auto box

    Which of the 6 cylinder autos would be strong enough to handle a forced induction system as I’m really not too interested in a manual swap, at the moment I’m running an m50b25tu. Thanks in advance for any advice Alex
  12. Tony rossi

    E34 parts

    Hello everyone I'm new to the forum so any pointers would be much appreciated. I'm getting my e34 alpina back on the road after nearly 15 years and I'm after some parts because mine have deteriorated because its been stood for so long. Some of the parts I'm after are the metal trims from around the front and rear windscreens, door lock actuators, maybe some clocks (the ones with the white plastic on the rear) any help would be much appreciated.
  13. Hi, I finished the job, wanted to share my knowledge, hope you will benefit from it, its the whole process with all common mistakes and advice what to do and not to do while doing such a job, fixing grinding clicking problem etc, read the description on the 33 min video, i listed everything even my idiot mistake, it will show you complete comparision, waiting for your feedback.
  14. Hi all Just yesterday, the car started without issue. Today, I went to start it up, turning the key to the on position lights up all the normal lights on the dash. However, I don't hear the fuel pump, or the relay clicking. When I turn the key, nothing, no sound at all, it doesn't even crank. Perhaps the issue is with the Clifford alarm? It does appear to be temperamental so maybe the immobiliser has locked me out of the starting system? I do think this is the issue so how do I disable the damn thing?! Cheers in advance
  15. Loadregal

    BMW E34 540i fuel lines

    Hi all long time lurker this forum provided me all the info for an m62 swap I am currently undertaking. Recently purchased a 540i as a donor for all the running gear as the body was shagged. The car runs sweet as a nut and has had no expense spared by previous owner (spent £27K since 1999) who only ever took it to BMW partridge for anything it needed (have receipts for every tyre change). Noticed a Big smell of fuel yesterday in traffic to see a lot of fuel leaking from rear. Looks to be the fuel lines which are royally fucked. I have a mint bodied 520i I am dropping the whole running gear into. The question are the fuel lines the same for the V8 and M50 E34's? The other question is it easy enough to do/worth doing? I will have everything going into the m62 car within the next two weeks. That smell all and spray of fuel was very scary. I'd rather get a new set from BMW, but want to confirm if either for the V8 or the M50 ones I will need. Any advice or comments appreciated!
  16. alex525

    Diff swap

    Wondering just what issues I would have if I swap the diff from my 1990 m20 4 speed auto and put it into my 1994 m50 5speed, is the swap a simple bolt up project or will I have fabrication issues, only looking into it so I can rebuild the original and refit. All opinions and answers appreciated. Alex
  17. I recently upgraded to Throwing stars, so my original 15x7 (ET20, 72.5mm centre bore) BBS alloys are for sale, including the spare wheel. Part number for all the wheels is: 36111179774 The tyres are all 225/60/15 - the fronts are about 5-6mm (Marshal Matrac) in excellent condition and the rears are around 3-4mm (Continental ContiPremiumContact 2), which are still ok to use. The spare has an old Pirelli P600, but in good condition (5-6mm) and holds air. I have 4 centre caps and the wheels are 100% straight, balanced and tested - ready to bolt on. Would be looking around £250 ONO and collection from west London. If interested, please PM me. Thanks
  18. Blackman

    E34 525i Exhaust Options

    Seems like the mesh inside my catalytic converter has fallen into pieces and now it makes a funny noise at certain revs, when I move off or accelerate in lower gears. I was thinking of replacing the cat with a new Klarius unit and then getting a cat-back stainless steel exhaust system from Jetex? Does this sound like a good combo or Jetex may be a bit too boy-racer? It's decently priced at £450 for a complete kit, excluding the cat obviously. There doesn't seem to be many options when it comes to E34 exhausts, unless you want to pay over £1200 for a Superprint system or £550 just for a Eisenmann backbox? As far as I know, Klarius is a quite good brand, so it should be a good choice for a catalytic converter and it should last at least 4-5 years? So I just need your help re choosing the best cat and then knowing my options for the exhaust system? Thanks
  19. neddy540

    25 years of greatness

    Hi people My 5er is 25 years today (blue) Still driving as smooth as a decade ago 08/02/93
  20. Big Will

    New e34 525iX owner

    Hi there. I've posted a few times already and appreciate what a great resource this forum is. I come from the Volvo enthusiast world (specifically 850/70 series cars) but am excited to learn more about the e34s. I recently found an e34 525iX touring with an 09/94 production date. It has fairly low miles for its age and is in great shape cosmetically. The car was off the road for some years and needed a few items replaced to be in good form but everything is in order now and at a good "stage 0" in terms of maintenance. As it needed new front shocks, I took the opportunity to install the "sport" suspension and corresponding springs. I think the stance is actually well-matched to the normal height iX SLS rear suspension. Unfortunately on my drive home, the car began to have a starting problem as the DME was failing. That was an adventure!
  21. alex525

    Probably asked before but

    Does a piston from the S50 engine fit the M50?
  22. Big Will

    525iX won't start

    So I finally picked up my 1995 525iX touring about 3 weeks ago. The car is cosmetically in absolutely gorgeous shape with only 170K kms but had been off the road for the past 7 years as it was someone's project car in Germany. The dealer that was selling it had done some work (replacing fluids, spark plugs and exterior trim pieces, spraying on rust-proofing oil etc to keep it looking nice underneath). I had it inspected by Dekra in The Netherlands and they spent half a day with the car, driving it etc. and gave me their 9 page report. It needed new fuel lines, new rear brake pads and ideally the front shocks replaced because a little rust had formed on the pistons - from cracks in the strut boots), and a new AC compressor. The dealer and I came to a fair agreement where they did all the labor and I supplied the parts. I took the opportunity to upgrade the front suspension to the "sport" struts and springs and all new hardware. The fuel lines were replaced, new fuel filter and some brackets etc., new rear pads and rotors and parking brake hardware, new AC compressor and drier. After the work was done I went to pick up the car and began driving it back across Germany. What should have been a 5 or 6 hour trip turned into a 14 hour nightmare as the first time I stopped for a coffee the car wouldn't start! It cranked strongly but wouldn't get going. After a couple hours of trying on and off, it did until I had to stop for gas. I could hear the fuel pump priming and the battery seemed strong plus it had just driven over 200 kilometers so should have been charged up. When I finally got to my city, I got a warning message on the dash of a "brake light electric failure - see owner's manual" (in German) and apparently didn't have brake lights anymore. This would come and go over the next two days until I got stuck at a gas station, absolutely couldn't start the car and had to have the car towed to a repair shop. We tried starter fluid before towing it and that did not work. The car spent over 2 weeks at an A.T.U. repair shop. They initially diagnosed it as a fuel pressure regulator noting that they were getting much too high fuel pressure and replaced that with a BMW part. The car still didn't start. I then supplied them with a new BMW fuel pump relay and Motronic relay and a new Hella branded CPS which was what I thought the problem was. No luck. The repair shop said they were finally able to "access the computer" and that the problem is the car's immobilizer and only BMW can fix this. As an additional detail, I noticed that when the car first wouldn't start, when I tried unlocking the car, the alarm would go off. During the couple days I had the car where it would sometimes start, I replaced the batteries in the remotes but was unable to pair them to the car. The procedure did not work. Of course I could still unlock the car manually with the key. On Wednesday I had to have the car towed from this repair shop to the nearest BMW dealer. The dealer was given all the information as to what was done so far and spent yesterday trying to diagnose the problem. They claim to have their most experienced tech working on my car and so far he is stumped! Any ideas for this mystery? Sorry for posting another "e34 no start" thread, but I thought this might be interesting. After 3 weeks I can't even register my car because it can't go through the inspection like this to get normal license plates. UPDATE: BMW claims that the readings from the new Hella CPS are bad. They are going to replace it with a BMW sensor and see if it works. If not, they think it's the main computer...which I imagine is rather expensive. I come from the Volvo enthusiast side and that's really not normally a problem. Is that common with e34s?
  23. Frankalope


    Hello! New to this forum and have started a project out of a 92 e34. Also have a 95 I'm using for parts and eventually swapping in the vanos m50 into it with a turbo Probably will be asking alot of questions, hope you all don't mind!
  24. Maxwellphillips

    Prospective buyer

    Hi everyone, I'm not yet and owner, but I am considering an E34 525i as a project car. A friend at work is selling a rolling shell (no engine or gearbox) for £200. I've seen photos of the car, it's red, with pretty poor paint condition (rear quarter and spoiler are heavily faded), however I'm told the rest is in good condition, and drove well before the engine was pulled out due to excessive smoke. It has a cream cloth interior by the looks of it. Anything I should look out for when I see the car? I just wanted a bit of advice as to whether this would be a good project car? I have a small garage and minimal tools atm, but I plan on spending a couple of years fiddling and gathering tools I need. With the ultimate goal of sticking something like a manual coupled with a straight six out of an E46 328i, or an M62, and possibly going supercharged. Am I likely to bite off more than I can chew here, or is this something that is doable over a few years with a meagre budget? Cheers!
  25. Beej4

    New to a classic BMW

    Hello everyone! Although I'm not a new forum member, I will soon be a new owner of an E34 M5 3.8, Fjord Grey saloon (picking up next Saturday). I've already introduced myself on the E34 specific section. Pictures as soon as I'm able to after collection.