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Found 174 results

  1. Hello i own an e34 touring hellrot from 1995 520i automatic transmission. After replacing the engine at 350000 km with a better one, the automatic transmission doesn't go on sport mode or winter. It shows an exclamation mark on the gear display and the speed it's limited to 160kmh. After the diagnosis, no transmission code appears: I get code 77 (temperature reading fault) I have some power issues on slopes and when car is warm. And code 84 (unknown) The fuse f12 keeps blowing I've changed: The transmission oil new obd Spark plugs Ignition coils Any help will be greatly appreciated! Cheers David
  2. Hi guys, thought I'd document the progress on my E34 Touring M57 Swap, started at the beginning of the year and hoping to have it finished by the end of Spring. This is not intended to be a guide but a documentation of the build for any future owners, I'm more than happy to help with any questions/queries but won't have answers or solutions to every question as still trying to figure out things myself. The problem with the M57 swap into an E34 is that information is very limited on the internet, the conversion has been done many times in and around Europe but finding information on RHD swapped cars proved to be difficult. Immediate issues we discovered was the clearance of the steering box with the turbo, the sump will also collide with the subframe due to rear mounted pan, amongst many other things such as wiring, propshaft etc, thankfully the information I was able to find on the internet cleared up some of these issues which I will detail below. I'm hoping to be able to retain the 6spd and source a 95+ HIGH Interior Loom so that the E46 check control system and anything associated with it can be used, I've also managed to source a "short" engine harness that allows for the M57 to be ran in any situation, all the wires are labelled and it has wiring for the ECU, Canbus system, RPM signal and much more, if anyone is interested in this let me know and I'll point you the right way. A bit of information on the car and the donor car.. 1994 E34 525tds Touring -M51D25 -Calypso-Red -Manual 5spd -126000 miles 2004 E46 330d (204) -M57D30TU -EGR, DPF, Swirl Flap Delete. Stainless 2.5" Full Exhaust -Dyno Printout @ 321bhp/611nm (unsure how accurate this is) -Manual 6spd -172000 miles --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First job was to remove the old M51D25 from the Touring, this engine is going to be used in an E30 Touring that my friend is putting together, it's a fairly easy process but both the engine and engine bay was completely covered in oil and grease, definitely a messy job but the engine and box were eventually removed aswell as any other related wiring/ancillaries. I'll be spending some time on making the engine bay nicer later. For the M57 I’d definitely recommend having a full donor car as you’ll want to keep a few bits for the conversion, here's a rough list of what I kept and what I found that’ll I need. -Full Running gear and ancillaries (Engine, gearbox, propshaft) - (I'll be using the E46 6spd GS6-53DZ gearbox with a custom prop) -Power steering lines -Engine loom, fuse/relay box -Throttle pedal as it’s electronic -ECU (DDE) -Radiator and hoses (If not going uprated) -Intercooler and piping -E38 730d Sump/Oil Pan with pick up. -E38 passenger (cold side) engine mount -E34 525tds driver (hot side) engine mount (See below) The factory air box setup was cut as it is moulded as part of the valve cover and can’t be removed, it also tidied up the engine a bit and allows for turbo piping to come upwards, I took the MAF sensor off the housing (this will be modified later) and cut the plastic cowl with a dremel up to the bolt channels for the valve cover, gave the block a clean and paint whilst it was all off. The standard turbo manifold can simply be flipped the other way round as the ports/flanges match up perfectly. The 330d M57 sump is rear panned, this causes issues with clearance as it sits directly over the subframe, I used a E38 730d oil pan and pick up as these are front panned, the sump will however still need slight modification as it still doesn’t clear the subframe fully, still waiting to do this myself but will update with pictures once it’s done. The 730d was never available in the UK so I had to source one from Lithuania, think I was about £400 all in for the mounts and sump inc shipping. I then removed the original passenger side engine mount and used the 730d engine mount after cleaning up the threads, the block is universal between all M57's so all the mounting holes are the same but the original mount used different holes, some wd40 and a bolt wound in and back a few times worked fine. For the driver side the original TDS mounts were used, I had to drill out the holes slightly with a 10mm drill bit for the original engine mount bolts as they are slightly too big.. Next up is to remove the the sump again and have it modified slightly to clear the subframe fully. Will update in the near future!
  3. Hi everyone, Fellow car nut and BMW fan here (proud owner of an E92 M3) and hoping you can help me with how I can track a car down! My grandma recently passed and as a result we’ve come across some photos, one of which had a glimpse of my grandad’s 5 series which I used to love as a kid. I’d forgotten about it in the 25 years since I saw it last but from the photo I’ve managed to make out it was a white E34 with numberplate EDX671. Don’t know what engine but would guess no larger than a 525i and it lived in the Derby area. Not knowing the VIN and with the number plate now registered to a 2006 Merc, I’d love to be able to track it down or find out what happened to it but I don’t know where to start. I thought this forum’s members might have some insight so does anybody have any ideas on starting points? Thanks in advance, Matt
  4. Hi all, so I own a low mileage E34 5 series and the dashboard is reading "Error Tacho" followed by Miles/Kmh. Theirs some back story here.... I took the car out one night just to drive around as he was sat for a couple of weeks, so I let the car warm up and took it not much more than a mile out. I sat did some work, let the engine run, switched it off after a while started it up, went for a small drive came back, and then went to say hi to a fellow enthusiast. Here's where it gets weird. I parked the car up and left the engine running and as we were literally discussing how good the older engines are the car starts reving in and out at Idle, almost as if it was trying to keep itself on (their was. a quarter tank of fuel)(still is), then the car shuts off. Weird. The first time it ever happened. So I turned the ignition on, no errors and thought it best to give the car a moment before turning it back on, engine temp was fine as well. Fifteen minutes later I turn the car back on and again no issues, the only thing I found weird was the power steering was much much lighter, I felt like I could turn it with my elbows I need be. I get home and as I'm reversing into the drive, again the car shuts off, this time "Error code Tacho, Miles/Kmh, Owners handbook". So I just wanted to know if anyone has ever experienced this and how they've gone about fixing it, a few people have said it could be the fuel pump but I've ruled that out since I started the car the next day and moved it, once I had literally finished parking the second time it cut out again. I tried starting it but it just ticks and clicks no actual turnover. (but if you try again ten mins later full turn overdrives but gives the error code and cuts out again). So if anyone ever experienced this before please let know what to do, it's a 1991 E34 BMW 525i SE Automatic and his only covered 46,000. Any suggestions and help is much appreciated. Attached a few pictures, let me know any thoughts (for the record I never drove the car in the snow but couldn't let the opportunity for the pictures get away)
  5. HI, The car was standing for many years without any movement , but when I went to buy it (the engine was running smooth and nice ). When I get car back home , - dead ( almost) It starts but after a 5 sec. is dying , like not enough fuel or something else. when I was trying to start it many times, I was sniffing a petrol. ( pipe just next to the fuel filter was parished ) - ok, repair done : ) next thing... car still the same , start only for max 5 sec. and dead again every time, and to start it i need push pedal to the floor. today I check the fuses and relays and according to the bentleys manual , I cant see the main relay !!! ?? is that right , there should be only two relays ? please for help
  6. Bwayeast

    E34 Instrument Cluster needed

    Hi My recently required E34 520 touring needs a new instrument cluster. Display was intermittent when I bought the car (earlier this summer), but is now off permanently. Any advice as to best place to locate one much appreciated. I'm based in Chester
  7. Leo aka Horse-On-Wheels_MS

    BMW E34 525IX By howms

    Hello all, I wanted to start a thread and share my story on my E34Ix that I acquired totally by accident last year in November without seeing it or test driving it! (what could've gone wrong lol), and how I discovered that I bought an absolute lemon(that is somewhat worth saving) The story: Back in September 2019, I had saved up and then I was looking for a project car that I can use to commute and I was in the market mostly for an e30 or e36 and I would only consider an e34 and e39 under certain conditions and one day I was scrolling through an overpriced e30 and I caught a glimpse of an e34 and as I looked into it and found out it was an ix which is quite rare now especially in red, as I thought it would be a good base to put down more power or I could rwd it if I don't fancy it down the line, my biggest concern was it being a cloth interior automatic(wanted a manual) with a tired paintwork but I went for it anyway so the journey begins by paying £1.7k for the damn thing... Specsheet: Better picture coming soon
  8. I have recently decided to go back to original 15" BBS wheels for my E34, so the M5 Throwing Stars are now for sale. This is a set of x5 genuine BMW Throwing Star (style 21) staggered forged alloy wheels set, including tyres. All the wheels are in used, but excellent overall condition without any structural damage - no buckles, cracks or welds. These are straight forged wheels, which I used on my car for 2+ years without any issues - no vibrations or balancing problems. There's very minor cosmetic kerbing damage on all the wheels and slight paint bubbling on the star covers. The worst bits are shown on the photos #6 and #7, but apart from that, the wheels and the covers are in very presentable condition. This is a genuine BMW staggered wheel set, specifically for E34 M5 fitment, with correct directional magnesium star covers (2 left + 2 right), plastic centre caps and factory-size tyres. The front wheels are 17x8J ET20 (part number: 36112226706) with 235/45/R17 94Y tyres, which are Continental ContiPremiumContact 6 (dated 1018) and Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 (dated 1318). The rear wheels are 17x9J ET22 (part number: 36112226707) with 255/40/R17 98Y tyres, which both are Toyo Proxes Sport (dated 4318). All the tyres are in perfect condition throughout, having approximately 7-8mm of tread left, and without any cuts, bulges or puncture repairs. The spare wheel (shown on photo #11) is 17x8J ET20 (part number: 36112226706) with 235/45/R17 94W tyre, which is Falken Ziex ZE912. It has approximately 5mm of tread and is in overall good condition. Please note, there's no plastic centre cap for the spare wheel. All 5 star covers have correct genuine BMW fillister head screws (part number: 36112227124) installed, which I bought back in 2017. The badges on the centre caps were also replaced with genuine BMW stickers (part number: 36136758569) at the same time. The wheels will need to be collected in person from London, SW6 and cash paid on collection. The price for the whole set is £1450. Open to sensible offers, so if you have a reasonable price in mind, then let me know. Thanks for looking.
  9. siarach

    E34 #68 Fault Code

    Hi Guys, My 95 520i has got a lumpy Idle, stalls out, generally running rough, it has thrown up fault code 68? Where do i look?? Any advice gratefully accepted. Regards John M
  10. Frampton518i

    E34 door card screw

    I have just fixed my electric window on the driver side of my 518i and have lost the screw that fits underneath the door handle. Anyone able to tell me the size of this screw? Would be much appreciated thank you very much
  11. Hey everyone, Decided to start a project thread for my E34 525i, as I've learned a lot from this and other forums before I actually bought the car and while working on it, so I thought sharing my ownership experience will help others to know what to expect from this car and make it easier to get the right parts, know what's involved in the jobs, etc. Having previously owned an E30 325i for over 3 years, one thing I learned about old BMWs is that if you get one with more or less rust-free bodywork, then all the rest of the car, i.e. engine/brakes/suspension can be pretty easily sorted, assuming you haven't bought a completely thrashed example. The reason why I sold my E30 was simply rust - it was everywhere you could imagine - sills, jacking points, front/rear arches, rear panel, front panel and even the roof (it was a sunroof model). To make it 100% right, it would have to be a complete restoration... As much as I love old BMWs, I didn't really want to go through the same things over again with an E34, so I spent literally 1 year looking for one...It had to be a manual, it had to be a 525i and most importantly it had to be in a reasonable condition bodywork-wise. Based on what I've seen and read, E34s rust very similar to other BMWs from the same era, so watch out for rusty jacking points and generally sills, especially on models that had side skirts fitted, then front and rear arches can be bad too (although the front wings can be replaced easily), then the boot lid is quite common to rust on E34s (around the number plate lights and around the edge that meets the rear panel), the bottoms of the doors, where you've got mouldings fitted, around the fuel flap area, and if you are looking at a sunroof model, then you have to be even more careful as the cassettes can be a bit rusty, although roof rust on E34s doesn't seem as common as on E30s. Clearly, the list of possible rust spots is quite extensive, so as I mentioned earlier, when you are looking for an E34, you are looking at bodywork first and all the rest of it second. Engine-wise, it had to be at least a 6 cylinder model for me, because anything less in my opinion, is a bit too slow...525i is a great choice for everything, including performance, economy and maintenance. I've seen a few 540i for sale, but I wanted a manual, so knowing how rare they are in the UK, the prices were unrealistic for me and to be honest, the ones I've seen weren't in the best conditions either. Long story short, just when I was about to give up my search for a decent E34, as I also kept an eye for a more modern E90 330i (no rust, less hassle overall), one unbelievably clean 525i came up for sale and I knew I had to go for it, because otherwise I was simply going to buy an E90, since I was seriously tired of searching. It's a 1993 saloon, pre-facelift model in diamantschwarz metallic with a M50B25TU engine and a manual gearbox. Yes, it does have a sunroof, but after removing the door seals to check the roof, it looks all clean there, although the sunroof cassette does have a few chips on it, they don't bother me at all. The rear jacking points are clean, the fronts are slightly rusty, the rear arches are bubbling a bit on the lower edges, the boot lid is ok, some rust on the bottom of the driver's door and underneath it's pretty clean as well. Grey cloth interior, no A/C (thank god), a sagging headliner and worn wiper linkage - overall, it's still a museum example compared to the E30 that I had... The car did come with a lot of original paperwork, previous MOTs and service history, but I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance and doing things myself, because I like when my cars are 100% mechanically perfect. After scouring the BMW forums all over the Internet, I started making up the list of required parts... Starting with the basic things first, I bought Shell Helix HX7 10W40 engine oil with Mann oil filter, Mann air filter and Valvoline engine flush. Also bought a Gold Plug magnetic sump plug - not sure if they are worth it, but otherwise I would advise getting a new genuine BMW plug and washer. Then moving onto other things as below: Bosch fuel filter - part number: 0 450 905 030 Bosch spark plugs (x6) - part number: 0 242 235 668 (25k miles replacement interval) Bosch Super Plus wiper blades - I initially bought more modern aero wipers, but when it came to fitting them, I didn't realise that E34s had a "reverse hook" wiper on the driver's side. There are various modifications you can do to fit whatever wipers you like, but I decided to stick to OEM and just bought E34-specific regular wipers from ECP with correct fitment. Dayco fan belt (6PK x 1558) - didn't go for a BMW belt, because it was about 40 quid from a dealer, while Dayco was just a tenner from ECP, and Dayco is a quality OEM parts manufacturer anyway, so no problems here. Now an important thing to know about M50 engines is that some of them came with a mechanical tensioner and some with hydraulic one. Done a lot of reading on this and the common recommendation is to replace the mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic one. Luckily INA and other parts manufacturers sell ready kits for doing this, so what I've done is bought a hydraulic tensioner kit and also the free-spinning roller for the alternator. INA hydraulic tensioner kit - part number: 533 0097 10 INA roller - part number: 532 0418 10 Keep in mind, if you have A/C fitted, then you'll also need to buy the A/C belt as well as the tensioner kit for the A/C. Moving onto the cooling side of things - my radiator was swollen on the top for some reason, so I definitely needed a replacement radiator. BMW advised the radiator and the bottle were sold separately and they quoted around £300 for everything, while I was looking at 100 quid tops for a complete rad/bottle online from various reputable makes. Make sure you check properly which radiator you have, because A/C and non A/C models have different size rads (520mm) and automatic cars have different rads as well. After measuring mine, I started looking for the most basic 440mm radiator for manual cars - BMW part number: 17 11 1 712 982 There's a quite large choice of various makes for radiators, but I wanted to stay on the OEM side as much possible, however since the BMW rad was way too pricy, I decided that BEHR/Hella would be a great alternative, since they are a well-known OEM parts manufacturer. I ordered my radiator from http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/ and it came from Germany, as it was not available anywhere in the UK. Here's the part number for my BEHR/Hella 440mm radiator: 8MK 376 717-461 It was a 100% perfect fit, the only issue we had with it, is that it didn't come with a hole for a coolant level sensor, however you can easily modify it, making a hole where the sensor goes, because otherwise it all fits excellent. I paid just under £100 for it, including delivery, so very happy with it. Then I also bought the fan clutch made by Borg Warner/BEHR/BERU. BEHR fan clutch - part number: 8MV 376 732-231 Sachs fan clutch - part number: 2100 012 131 All are OEM makes, so go for whatever you can find. ECP shows BERU on their website, but the box came labelled Borg Warner, so I'm fine with that. The water pump was about £130 genuine from BMW, which I thought was a bit too much, since I managed to get a HEPU one from ECP for less than £50 and again, HEPU are a decent German brand. HEPU water pump (comes with a gasket) - part number: P472 For the thermostat, first I went with Circoli, but after reading some horror stories about them online, I decided to go genuine BMW and paid £50 for a thermostat and a gasket from BMW. You can either buy a 88 degrees thermostat or 92 one from BMW and all they advise is to check what you already have fitted before you order, which seems a bit silly to me, because these cars are over 20 years old and you don't know whether the stat fitted in the past was the correct spec or not? To be honest, I doubt there will be any catastrophic difference if you go for either of them. Anyway, I decided to go for the 92 degrees thermostat, so the BMW part number you'll need is: 11 53 7 511 083. The gasket comes separate (part no: 11 53 1 265 084) and also make sure to get the thermostat housing gasket - part number: 11 53 1 740 437. I wasn't too fussed about getting specific anti-freeze, so I just went with basic blue 2-year Triple QX anti-freeze that ECP sells and got 5 litres ready mixed for about 8 quid. Also bought some Wynn's white grease to lubricate the door, bonnet and boot lid hinges + locks. To break up the big pile of text above, here's a picture for you to show what it all looked like: And here's the difference between a genuine BMW thermostat and a Circoli one. What I didn't know is that the one made by BMW is actually a Wahler thermostat and you could get the exact same thermostat from eBay for about £30, but obviously it won't have no BMW logo or part number on it, although it will be the same part. Goes to show how dealers make their money on parts. I also bought a few parts from BMW directly, because I thought the price was sensible and also some things are better when they are genuine BMW. It looked like that my valve cover gasket was leaking a bit of oil, so we decided it would be a good idea to replace it, so here's what I got. BMW valve cover gasket kit - part number: 11 12 0 034 107 (keep in mind this is for vehicles fitted with VANOS, so if yours is the older engine, then the part number will be different) BMW valve cover rubber washer seals - part number: 11 12 1 437 395 (you'll need 15 of these) I also bought a genuine engine oil cap (says BMW recommends Castrol on it) - part number: 11 12 7 509 328 And a BMW cap for the radiator as well - part number: 17 11 7 639 022 A common issue with E34 bonnets is that they don't "shoot out" properly, when you pull the bonnet release handle. The usual cause of this are tired bonnet shocks, so I bought a pair from BMW, which cured this problem. BMW bonnet struts (not sided and you'll need 2) - part number: 51 23 1 944 119 They do come with the mounting clips for both ends, so there's no need to buy them separately, although I didn't know that and bought them as well. The shocks are about £30 each, so I guess not too bad, considering you change them once in 20 years. And the finishing touch was the BMW boot lid badge that I bought along with the grommets, as mine was fading away and I wanted to replace it. As far as I know, it applies to the bonnet as well. BMW boot lid badge - part number: 51 14 8 132 375 There are two types of grommets you can order and I'm not sure what's difference, however I had black rubber type fitted on mine: Black badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 807 495 White badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 852 899 And here's a pic of the BMW bits: And that's it. You can see it's quite a lot of parts that I bought and to be honest you don't necessarily HAVE to go this crazy when servicing your E34, but as I mentioned in the beginning of this thread - I like when everything is 100% perfect with my cars, so I prefer to do it once and do it right. This post is getting a bit too long, so I'll finish the story here and I'll update the thread a bit later with a few pictures of how we actually replaced all of the above and then my plans for the next service work on my E34. I want to make this car drive, handle and feel exactly the same as it left the factory, so let's see if I can manage to do it. Thanks for following and any tips/advice much appreciated.
  12. krchooe34

    What’s this hose?

    I noticed this hose was loose and I have no idea where it goes pls help lol. This is a 1990 BMW 535 with an M30 under the hood.
  13. alex525

    Suspension question

    Dumb question time, what is the difference between the gas strut inserts from sedan and wagon and are they interchangeable?
  14. siarach

    E34 Not Starting

    Hi Folks, just joined your Forum and as you prob guess I need some help. I have a 1995 E34 520i that I have owned since 2001 and it has literally never let me down until now. I took it in to the shed to change out the wiper linkage which was a horrible job but never the less completed only to find that I cant get the car started! No Spark, No Fuel, various experts have been looking at it and I seem to be throwing money at various sensors etc to no avail. I have followed through the various test procedures and came up with very little aprt from a dropped voltage at the Fuel pump (6 Volts). Any advice on how to move fwd with this will be greatfully accepted. Regards John
  15. alex525

    Trans fluid

    Could anyone tell me how to top up the trans oil in a 5hp auto it’s the model without the dip stick . Any help is greatly appreciated. Alex

    1994 BMW E34 540I - GF22093

    Hello And Welcome I'm a firm believer that somethings are just meant to be and today that philosophy come bouncing into play much like it did with the Silver Unit ( Butler HQs Original Silver 540i ) Today innocently going to view an E34 with my Poppa ( Carl-E34 ).. 100 + miles from home as you do on arrival I became strongly attached to this diamond in the rough I couldn't help but think with a little Butler HQ love It could make a very special E34 and I truly thought that maybe Butler HQ was its last hope. Shes defiantly a project make no mistake about that but what else are you gonna do on a cold damp winter weekend ? before I could pull myself away as in the worlds of the late Marlon Brando the seller made me an offer I couldn't refuse... and a deal was done. I'll be embarking on this project with one person in mind. Tomorrow will be the full fat first update with all the great and gory details. Comments Welcome.
  17. alex525

    Which auto box

    Which of the 6 cylinder autos would be strong enough to handle a forced induction system as I’m really not too interested in a manual swap, at the moment I’m running an m50b25tu. Thanks in advance for any advice Alex
  18. Tony rossi

    E34 parts

    Hello everyone I'm new to the forum so any pointers would be much appreciated. I'm getting my e34 alpina back on the road after nearly 15 years and I'm after some parts because mine have deteriorated because its been stood for so long. Some of the parts I'm after are the metal trims from around the front and rear windscreens, door lock actuators, maybe some clocks (the ones with the white plastic on the rear) any help would be much appreciated.
  19. Hi, I finished the job, wanted to share my knowledge, hope you will benefit from it, its the whole process with all common mistakes and advice what to do and not to do while doing such a job, fixing grinding clicking problem etc, read the description on the 33 min video, i listed everything even my idiot mistake, it will show you complete comparision, waiting for your feedback.
  20. Hi all Just yesterday, the car started without issue. Today, I went to start it up, turning the key to the on position lights up all the normal lights on the dash. However, I don't hear the fuel pump, or the relay clicking. When I turn the key, nothing, no sound at all, it doesn't even crank. Perhaps the issue is with the Clifford alarm? It does appear to be temperamental so maybe the immobiliser has locked me out of the starting system? I do think this is the issue so how do I disable the damn thing?! Cheers in advance
  21. Loadregal

    BMW E34 540i fuel lines

    Hi all long time lurker this forum provided me all the info for an m62 swap I am currently undertaking. Recently purchased a 540i as a donor for all the running gear as the body was shagged. The car runs sweet as a nut and has had no expense spared by previous owner (spent £27K since 1999) who only ever took it to BMW partridge for anything it needed (have receipts for every tyre change). Noticed a Big smell of fuel yesterday in traffic to see a lot of fuel leaking from rear. Looks to be the fuel lines which are royally fucked. I have a mint bodied 520i I am dropping the whole running gear into. The question are the fuel lines the same for the V8 and M50 E34's? The other question is it easy enough to do/worth doing? I will have everything going into the m62 car within the next two weeks. That smell all and spray of fuel was very scary. I'd rather get a new set from BMW, but want to confirm if either for the V8 or the M50 ones I will need. Any advice or comments appreciated!
  22. alex525

    Diff swap

    Wondering just what issues I would have if I swap the diff from my 1990 m20 4 speed auto and put it into my 1994 m50 5speed, is the swap a simple bolt up project or will I have fabrication issues, only looking into it so I can rebuild the original and refit. All opinions and answers appreciated. Alex
  23. I recently upgraded to Throwing stars, so my original 15x7 (ET20, 72.5mm centre bore) BBS alloys are for sale, including the spare wheel. Part number for all the wheels is: 36111179774 The tyres are all 225/60/15 - the fronts are about 5-6mm (Marshal Matrac) in excellent condition and the rears are around 3-4mm (Continental ContiPremiumContact 2), which are still ok to use. The spare has an old Pirelli P600, but in good condition (5-6mm) and holds air. I have 4 centre caps and the wheels are 100% straight, balanced and tested - ready to bolt on. Would be looking around £250 ONO and collection from west London. If interested, please PM me. Thanks
  24. Blackman

    E34 525i Exhaust Options

    Seems like the mesh inside my catalytic converter has fallen into pieces and now it makes a funny noise at certain revs, when I move off or accelerate in lower gears. I was thinking of replacing the cat with a new Klarius unit and then getting a cat-back stainless steel exhaust system from Jetex? Does this sound like a good combo or Jetex may be a bit too boy-racer? It's decently priced at £450 for a complete kit, excluding the cat obviously. There doesn't seem to be many options when it comes to E34 exhausts, unless you want to pay over £1200 for a Superprint system or £550 just for a Eisenmann backbox? As far as I know, Klarius is a quite good brand, so it should be a good choice for a catalytic converter and it should last at least 4-5 years? So I just need your help re choosing the best cat and then knowing my options for the exhaust system? Thanks
  25. neddy540

    25 years of greatness

    Hi people My 5er is 25 years today (blue) Still driving as smooth as a decade ago 08/02/93