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Found 6 results

  1. Now completed! Information regarding installation starts in this post; ****************************************************** I'd quite like to retrofit a reversing camera to my LCI F11, it's about the only option that it doesn't have (along with upgraded HiFi) that I would have liked. I've seen a few options available from various suppliers, which seem to be a (non-OEM) camera, wiring loom and control box and presumably some coding to activate. They're available fitted for varying prices from £450 to £650 or so. I'm handy with gap openers and wiring so reckon I could fit a kit myself, but I need to know what bits to buy - I'd prefer OEM equipment if possible although as long as it appears in the same way as OEM on the screen with dynamic guidelines and a decent quality camera then that's fine. The camera definitely needs to be integrated into the boot handle, I don't want to be cutting into bodywork, or have anything stuck on. Has anyone done this themselves and can list the bits that are needed, or offer any advice?
  2. Biotoxic

    ZF 6hp26 oil change

    Hi folks, This might be useful for some. So, this was on my To-do list for quite some time now and finally had a time and a place where to do it myself. At first, I wanted to find a good gearbox specialist shop, but since I live in NI I had to go to Scotland or Ireland. I decided that I will do it myself as I read mixed reviews regarding a transmission oil change. After researching I decided to go for a metal oil pan instead of a standard plastic one. Info on my car: 2005/03 535d sport current mileage 213400 Issues that I had was while being stopped at the traffic lights and the engine is warm if I step on the accelerator as soon as I release the brakes two out of three times the RPMs would increase, nothing would happen for about a second and then when the torque converter would engage it would shoot off. another issue where while driving at constant speed, for example, anything between 40 mph an 80 mph the rpm gauge would fluctuate.... exactly as it is in this video here although if I change it to DS mode(semi-sport) the RPMs would fluctuate no matter how fast I would drive. I thought its the torque converter on its way out, but it wasn't the case, at least in not this instance... Anyway, I found a good deal on eBay, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122680285353 (although you can search and buy the parts separately, it doesn't have to be from this seller) UPS delivered it in three days. I checked the temperature, it was too hot to do anything so I let the car cool down a bit. Had enough time to go over the service_information manual <----MUST READ TWICE!!!!!! one more time The old plastic sump New metallic sump on the right Old oil sump out Not too much metallic deposits on the magnets, it's a good sign The oil itself, it looked like if somebody hasn't changed the engine oil in their petrol car for a good while... it didn't smell like it was burnt or anything . Mechatronics unit in its glory and the important bit... Those 4 seals in the middle of a gearbox, they need changing, but you can't change them without removing the mechatronics unit first. I suppose in all those threads about fluctuating rpms at a constant speed, almost all the time they are fixed by getting and installing a refurbished torque converter and that ''this is the only way'' might not be true!!! Maybe yes, but whenever I changed all the seals myself, the hard ''take off'' and ''fluctuating RPMs'' disappeared. so, I am guessing, if somebody changed their gearbox oil ''with all the seals'' they are the most likely culprit as it hasn't been done properly. Take a look at the difference yourself!!!!!!! the black seal(second longest from four of them) comparing to a brand new seal, you can see that it has shrunk noticeably, it was the same for the longest seal as well. I suppose they don't make enough of a tight seal to make/hold a required oil pressure, that's why rpms fluctuate.. Someone at the BMW parts department has messed up, as it didn't fit due to a small plastic notch on the other side of a plastic, see the difference in an image. I changed just the rubber bits as the old plastic case was still ok. New separate oil filter installed All tightened according to the manual listed above All done and change the engine oil while at it. The red bolt is a magnetic sump plug, will see if there is any metallic bits in the egine oil, next time its needs changing, looks fancy as well Job done. I reset the oil adjustment and also reset the adaptations(not the factory adaptations for the pressure plates) using ista and following the service information sheet to the point. Total cost including all the extra tools(torque wrench and a ''large syringe'' ) was about £280. Time wise better to do it over the weekend in a warm garage. There will be plenty of parts to be cleaned and put back together. It can be done alone. It worked for me! The gearbox is still learning my driving style, but it already feels like a brand new gearbox. Well worth doing and no need for a new/refurbished torque converter. I hope this helps somebody. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.
  3. Hello everyone, There's loads of DIY's on the interwebs showing how to refurb the peeling interior trims on E46/E9x/E6x's etc - but very little showing OEM(ish) finishes (i'm not a fan of carbon fibre wraps!) So i thought i'd share my experience with my 'fixing' my peeling steering wheel trim on my E60 and trying to keep it looking as OEM as possible. As i've just got my steering wheel re-trimmed by Jack at Royal Steering Wheels (Highly Recommend!) - The only thing that let it down was the lower trim, which costs around £52 from BMW (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182218158095 ) - i wanted to try something different. Before: After: Here's how i done it... I popped down to Screwfix and picked up at can of Plastikote - Matte Black Paint for £4.55 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/plasti-kote-super-multipurpose-spray-paint-matt-black-400ml/33732) I then removed my steering wheel trim, airbag off and two screws holding it on. Peeled off all the remaining rubberized coating, until i had a smooth surface to work with. Then throughly cleaned the trim with alcohol wipes. Masked up around the M badge and the steering control buttons. (cleaned again with alcohol) Then started to apply thin coats, slowly building up the layers, leaving 5-10 minutes between each coat. (In total 4 coats) Until i was left with this finish.. I'm very pleased with how this turned out. IMO pretty close to OEM! Hope this helps someone out there! Cheers!
  4. Well as some of you may know both of my front fog lamps mysteriously managed to crack within the same week.. how I will never know but it seemed rather odd that in 9+ years of ownership they both crack at virtually the same time. Drivers side: Passenger side: Nevertheless the challenge was to replace them in a cost effective manner and after a bit of trawling I found a guy in Romford selling a non OEM new pair for £39.50 inc P&P - so for that price it was worth it. So I thought I'd do a write up in case it helps someone else out in future. They arrived within a few days and today was time to fit them !! As you can see from the labelling they are the right model for the car. Well the first step was to get the old ones out. I personally found that an old butter knife was the tool of choice, simply insert the butter knife between the cover and the bumper where they meet on the inner (middle) side of the car, gently move it around and you should hear the locking tabs release, then hold the cover that fits around the light and move towards the outer side of the car and it will release. Once the cover is out of the way then remove the 8mm nut that sits on the inner side of the light. Circled in red. Once the screw is out it is simply a case of gently wiggling the light out and then releasing the locking tab on to the bulb fitment. Connect up the new units - mine came complete so it was literally plug and play. It was slightly more difficult getting the new units back in, but once again gently did it and then screw back in to place, fit the covers and the job was all done. I did actually test each light before screwing back in to place. New one in place and looks a lot better... Both in place: Both working: Tools used and the old units which I'll keep as spares as the bulbs are fine as are the bulb holders etc... Total time to complete was sub 30 minutes.
  5. fakebob

    Failed MOT on bushes!

    Hi Guys! It's been a while since I posted - it's been a difficult few months, but Brutus (my 04 reg E61) is still keeping me smiling every time I drive him! But....he failed his MOT on bushes - specifically the Rear upper link arm and Front axle lower rear link arm. The Garage quoted me almost £300 to supply and fit - that's not even BMW OEM parts! With a free re-test of course! I managed to buy the same parts online for £90 and I'm hoping to do the work myself to save me some pennies (my Mrs is livid - I only bought the car in June!) My question is: I have rebuilt some cars in the past - is changing these a big thing to do DIY on the driveway with some axle-stands and a decent torque-wrench or something I should get the mechanics to do? How long does the job take for a competent DIYer and how long for a garage? Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks in advance! FakeBob
  6. Tonemapper

    Diversity Antenna - Fixed

    During the Winter last year my key fob stopped working unless I held it very close to the tailgate. I took off the rear 'spoiler' to see if there were any frayed wires etc and to also check the condition of the DA box. All looked OK and I gave it a couple of squirts with WD40 but it didn't help at all. I just put up with it until recently when I found a post somewhere saying that cleaning inside the DA box helps. Off with the spoiler again and carefully prised open the DA box. It all looked very clean and no broken solder joints so I gave it a careful going-over with a soft toothbrush and some compressed air. To my amazement it fixed the problem and now the key fob operates from 20-25 feet away, not exactly perfect but much better than before. Hope that helps someone!