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Found 7 results

  1. So a few months ago my air suspension starting playing up. My car was at around 72k miles and I have a Luxury 520d Touring which has the softer suspension setup. It was mostly dropping when the car was parked but sometimes I'd randomly hear the compressor kick in with no change of weight or distribution. So I replaced the air springs as the obvious solution, with some Dunlop bags which we around £70 each and look pretty decent quality. Problem fixed for a few weeks. But then while driving one day the suspension dropped without warning, luckily on a slow street with no traffic. I stopped, had a look at the back of the car and it started rising again. It stayed up the rest of the day but overnight it dropped and wouldn't go back up, despite me testing with ISTA and verifying that the compressor was working and all control modules were functioning. I remembered seeing a Youtube video by DiagnoseDan where he replaced a compressor and later dismantled the old compressor to find the release valve was faulty. So here's what I did: 1. Jack up the car so the back wheels are slightly off the ground and secure with axle stands. 2. Remove the trim clips and two 8mm hex screws holding the underside cover in place and take off the cover. 3. Remove the 4 plastic nuts holding the compressor cover in place. The under-side ones are a little tricky and you're best using a short socket extension. Remove the cover to expose the compressor. If you have a tow bar like me, extend it out to give yourself more room. 4. Disconnect all plugs and the rubber air inlet hose from the compressor. You may want to disconnect your battery - I didn't, but I did clear all faults with ISTA afterwards. Disconnect the brass nuts of the red and blue air lines going out of the compressor, being careful not to damage the plastic threads in the housing. You will likely get some air coming out as the bags fully deflate. 5. Remove the 4 nuts from the spring-suspended compressor mounts and lower the compressor out. 6. Identify the solenoid valve (should say Wabco with a part number the same or similar to the pic) and unscrew the 2 torx screws. It is spring-loaded so hold onto it when undoing them! 7. If the shaft is difficult to slide in/out then it's faulty. It should fall out when turned over ie. no resistance. 8. Fit the new part, taking care to refit the spring and ensure the part is orientated the correct way. 9. Put everything back together in reverse (be careful putting you air lines back in as the housing thread is plastic and easy to strip) and lower your car back down. Turn on the engine and it should start filling the bags. Once full, the compressor should stop and you may also hear a little air being released, then nothing. If it holds over the next few hours you're probably all good. If not, check that your air hoses are properly tightened and not leaking air. You may not hear it escaping but I had to disconnect and redo mine as it was dropping overnight but inflating again when the engine was started. Tools needed: 1. 8mm and 10mm sockets with 6-inch extension 2. 10mm spanner 3. Torx (T27 and T25 I think, don't quote me!) 4. Plastic trim removal tool Part from ebay, around £20: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223686694947 Time needed: Around 30 minutes.
  2. If your estate BMW 5 Series (known as a Touring or the F11 or the GT F07) has its backside on the ground one morning or you have an error message on your dash relating to a ride fault or an air suspension fault, have a look through these threads to give you an idea on what the issue is and how to resolve it. This is a collection of just some of the threads to be found on here, not all are one here simply due to the fact, they were never resolved or closed out so there is nothing to be learned from them. This is purely a reference thread to other posts on here and is not to be used as a discussion thread. Failure symptoms above thread was closed out in last post of this next thread DIY guide to replacing the rear sir springs. DIY Guide to replace the solenoid valve System Behaviour Normal behaviour Compressor Compressor removal (access needed to NewTIS) Compressor Faults Ride Height Queries F11 Rear suspension height F07 Ride height query F11 ride height to high One side failure F07 Bump Stop issues Disintegrating rear bump stops Valve block Air spring fault Lowering of an F11 Standard or MSport Air spring differences Tech chat on tools needed for air line. Relay If you want another thread adding to this, please message me and I'll reference it in here.
  3. mrjdh

    Warranty question

    hi fellow owners, Quick question to those who still have warranty on their BMW. I have just been hit with the common issue with the rear air suspension not inflating properly,! the compressor kicks in fine, there is no inflate to the rears sadly! my question is, did anyone manage to get them changed under warranty? Thanks J
  4. Good Evening All, I have been having the same error message coming up on my car now for a while "cornering ability restricted", i replaced my rear air bags in February this year and all was ok originally, then a few days later the fuse to the compressor blew, so i replaced that and went on my way the car performing perfectly well. a few weeks later the error message i've already mentions popped up on the screen, however my car doesn't have any symptoms and it drives perfectly. To begin with the error message was intermittent occasionally coming up. I will be honest i ignored it because nothing is wrong with the car. The message now continuously comes up whenever i drive the car. I decided to get a Autophix ES910 diagnostics tool to try and read the fault code - after clearing many faults the one that came back straight away was - 480DA0 Discharge Valve: Voltage Fault. I assume this is linked with the air suspension and possibly the discharge valve on the compressor has something to do with it. however the car is absolutely fine? Can anyone help on this, i don't want to start spending money on replacement items if i don't have to? Many Thanks
  5. Hi,Can someone please tell me how to retrofit IHKA module from AC LOW BASIS (PRE-LCI) to AC LOW BASIS (LCI)?I have installed MASK2 business LCI and need to change the front panel + ac unit. When installed new IHKA module the air compressor is not working... do I need to change some cables around? Tried with MAN coding didn't help. getting the following errors: Errors in my car:9C6F IHKA: Refrigerant compressor control valve9C69 IHKA: Monitor, supply, compressor clutch BASIS Wiring diagrams and pin assignments:https://www.sendspace.com/file/usiw2ghttps://www.sendspace.com/file/86kj0ohttps://www.sendspace.com/file/qsz169https://www.sendspace.com/file/1l74jphttps://www.sendspace.com/file/zt82ithttps://www.sendspace.com/file/72bgp4
  6. Hi,Can someone please tell me how to retrofit IHKA module from AC LOW BASIS (PRE-LCI) to AC LOW BASIS (LCI)?I have installed MASK2 business LCI and need to change the front panel + ac unit. When installed new IHKA module the air compressor is not working... do I need to change some cables around? Tried with MAN coding didn't help. getting the following errors: Errors in my car:9C6F IHKA: Refrigerant compressor control valve9C69 IHKA: Monitor, supply, compressor clutch BASIS Wiring diagrams and pin assignments:https://www.sendspace.com/file/usiw2ghttps://www.sendspace.com/file/86kj0ohttps://www.sendspace.com/file/qsz169https://www.sendspace.com/file/1l74jphttps://www.sendspace.com/file/zt82ithttps://www.sendspace.com/file/72bgp4
  7. Dotcom1970

    I don't like mondays :(

    Woke up this morning, to find a massive puddle of coolant on the floor. Turns out the drivers side lower radiator hose has perished due to an oil leak somewhere. The hose is the original, so I'm not worried about that, although the oil leak is more of a mystery. The air filter is contaminated with oil. The breather filter was upgraded to the vortex type some 30K miles ago and there is some 'dampness' around the rocker cover. The leak has also caused the drivers side front engine mount to perish and also contaminated the a/c compressor belt. The a/c compressor itself has developed a leak and lost all the gas, although doubt this is related to the oil leak. The amount of oil being lost is not huge amounts, as it doesn't really show up on the dipstick as being low, so guess it's weeping somewhere and over time this has got onto rubber bits and perished them On the bright side, my washer tank was just overflowing, and no leaks there! Gonna fix the hose, belt and compressor (recon unit on it's way) and steam clean the engine bay so we can find the source of the leak and take it from there.
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