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Found 12 results

  1. hippie dave

    M20 Manual Gearbox stuck fast!

    Good afternoon, long time no post, hope we are all well. I am attempting to replace the clutch on my 520i (5 speed, RHD, 1986.), as I suspect the release bearing is on its way out. I have removed absolutely everything necessary including prop, gearbox crossmember, linkage, hydraulics, and starter motor. I have dropped the back of the box down, and removed absolutely all the fastenings (lower plate, three 19mm-head bolts on dowels, two 17mm bolts and entire starter motor). With assistance, I have released the box from the three dowels and attempted to lever it off. It is just not budging. It'll lever about 6-8mm or so on a pair of crowbars, and doesn't appear to be being held by anything solid- i.e. there is a bit of "spring" to it. It would appear to be held by the main shaft somehow. I fear that the release bearing has collapsed and is holding it in a circlip-like fashion. I don't mind breaking the bearing, but the possibility of collateral damage (or even having it crash down off the stands) from the required level of force is a concern. Has anyone come across this problem on an M20 car before and was this indeed it? The bearing is completely inaccessible until engine and box are split. How the hell does one get around this problem without cutting into the bellhousing? Answers on a postcard (before I push this effing thing into the thames). Thanks all, David
  2. SamC

    Clutch wont press down

    Hi All, I have a problem with my 520i where the clutch wont press down. It's compeltely solid so it can't be put into gear at all. Wasn't sure if there is a problem with the clutch itself or maybe some sort of blockage somewhere? Ant ideas would be great :) Cheers Sam video-1594551980.mp4
  3. flybynite

    535i clutch

    Well I'm starting to collect bits to put this 535 Sport back on the road. I know the clutch is gone because I was driving it when it went 12 years ago. I now see it seems the 535 has a DMF which surprises me as it seems a bit of a dinosaur boat anchor. If it has one it needs to be replaced when I take it apart, even if it is not that, that failed Done some searching on here, nothing much about the M30B35 specifically. Out on the wider net a lot of references but mostly stateside, not unusual for them to be different. Searching under the part number 21211223010 brings nothing of any consequence. Local stealer was no use either. I can find a clutch easy enough but not the DMF. Lots of LUK ones available stateside but not this side of the atlantic, even on the German parts web sites. there seems to be some cross matching of part numbers but they seem to be looking at e39 535is Questions Are people certain the '89 535i M30 has a DMF? Where would I look to get one Any better alternative? (I generally tend to believe DMFs should remain as it protects the rest of the driveline IF you can easily get them)
  4. 2 years ago (40k miles) I fitted a new Luk DMF, Luk clutch kit, Meyle propshaft coupling and BMW sourced (Koyo) pilot bearing. I also did the shifter detent rebuild job on the gearbox. All has been fine until last week. The clutch pedal felt a bit gruanchy and within 200 miles or so, as I was pulling out of the car park at work, I heard quite nasty grinding rattly noise coming from the gearbox area. The noise did not seem to affect shifting and it was there regardless of clutch position, gear selection and road speed. It was so bad I was about to turn back but it went away within 2 minutes. Since then I drove 300 miles and the clutch pedal seems to change its feel every few clutch actuations and it is rather noisy on engine overrun and sometimes I can feel significant damped backlash in the drivetrain. So I decided to remove the box to see what is going on and this is where it got interesting as the box did not come off. Was free to move about 25mm off the back of the engine and it came to a dead stop with a thud. After much head scratching and just before I was about to use a hole saw to get through the bell housing I managed to get to the pressure plate bolts through the slave cylinder hole, wasn't easy though. The gearbox came off and the pilot bearing was stuck on the gearbox input shaft as expected. After I used a puller on the pilot bearing I could not find the cause of the noise. Pilot bearing seemed good, Clutch seems fine, the pressure plate seems OK however will need a new one as I removed it without pre-loading so the self adjustment mechanism is at it lowest setting. The DMF seem OK to me as well although I am not an expert in checking DMFs. I can see fresh metal particles on the bell housing that must have been flung out of the rotating assembly but I cannot find where they came from, I don't think it is the clutch as the rivets are well clear of the surface. Will definitely get a new pilot bearing and clutch kit but I am not convinced it will cure the issue. The propshaft coupling has a tiny amount of play in one of the bolt holes so will get a new one of those as well, not too surprised by that due to my driving style and Meyle not being the best quality part out there. There is also a little bit of radial play in the gearbox input shaft, but from memory this was there last time. Not sure how much is acceptable. Where do I go from here? DMF is quite new and I can't see any of the other parts being responsible to cause this magnitude of problems, how can I prove the DMF is not the source the problems? I don't want to trow £500+ worth or parts on it just to find the same issue although I am looking at £200+ already for clutch kit, pilot bearing and propshaft coupling. Any ideas where I sit with the DMF warranty, being a Luk part sourced through CP4L (EPC stock)? Could it be the gearbox, if so how can I tell?
  5. Ben Ireland

    E39 528 Clutch Problems

    So driving the bus the other week clutch pedal goes straight to the floor I read through the forums and everyone said slave or master cylinder, about a week later I've done both and got pedal feel back but it will not engage the clutch, if started in gear it doesn't slip judder or anything, has anyone got any ideas what this could be before I start taking the box off? Cheers guys!
  6. johnpen

    Clutch judder

    Hi. My 2011 520d clutch has an intermittent judder in the clutch. When pressing down the pedal a judder can be felt through the pedal. This seems to be constant and not related to engine speed. Gear change is fine. Sometimes when this happens at tick over there is a low noise that seems to be in time with the judder. This noise is there whether the clutch pedal is pressed or not. I'm assuming this is the flywheel? The car has only done 80,000 miles. Could it be something else?
  7. aaron3200

    Few issues with new e60 520d

    Hi All, Am new to the forum. I bought a 2006 bmw 520D last week and have noticed a few issues with it. I had a mechanic look at it and he pointed out a few minor diagnostic issues that i have yet to sort out such as glow plugs that need replacing. After driving the car for a few days and especially after start up, there is a loud humming noise coming from under the bonnet. It seems to get mildly louder when steering but im not convinced its steering related but thats just my opinnion. Anybody had issues like this before? Second issue is clutch related. Clutch fully pressed down or fully up no noise. Clutch half up/down there is a rattle. Haven't noticed the clutch slipping so am not sure what it is. A neighbour suggested it could be the release bearing?? Again any help greatly appreciated. Not mechanically related but maby somebody knows... i have the iDrive system in my car. There is a phone cradle sort of device mounted on the passanger side of the centre console and there is a "Communication" option on the screen with a few BMW SERVICE numbers. I cannot find bluetooth settings in the settings option and am not used to bmers for a start. Anybody know has my car got bluetooth (as it was advertised to have) or how do i find out.. or is it only compatable with whatever sort of phone goes in this cradle? Theres no connections at the bottom/top of the cradle but there is a cable coming out and going behind the dash. There lies the confusion. Cheers, Aaron
  8. luton e34 man

    E34 520 clutch question

    Hello people I have been round to my brothers 520 manual with no clutch pedal to have a look at it and hopefully diagnose. It's the first chance I've got since my last post about it. The first thing I did was to check the reservoir and it was empty as suspected no shock. So I filled it up to try and find out where the leak was my brother pumped the pedal air was bubbling up into the reservoir then it stopped bubbling the level stopped going down and we got a proper pedal back. So I put some cardboard under the car left it running for about 1/2 hr - 45 mins the level stayed the same and still had a good pedal despite repeatedly pumping the pedal over the time the car was running. I pulled the cardboard from under the car and it was bone dry so I'm puzzled at the moment. Going to check again in the morning and see what the state of play is then. Anyone else experienced this ??
  9. luton e34 man

    Heeeeelp! Please

    Hello all my brothers ac 520's clutch has decided to stop working it goes to the floor and comes back up by its self but has no resistance (very light) won't go into gear while running I thought slave cylinder. Any help much appreciated thank you Toni
  10. Hi all, Even though my car is an E63 M6, I thought I'd share my recent experience of replacing the clutch and flywheel after the dreaded clutch judder that eventually effects the S85 engine and SMG box. I know this causes a lot of concern to existing owners and potential owners, so I thought I'd post a relatively good news story. My car is a 2006 E63 M6 and has done a shade over 61k miles. The clutch judder started recently and not having an extended warranty, I was aware that BMW stealers quote between £2.6 - £3k to replace the clutch and flywheel. I should point out that I have a local Indy who is an ex BMW mastertech with nearly 25 years experience. In one form or another, he's been looking after my cars since my 1985 E30 318i in the early 90's. Unfortunately, he was on 2 weeks summer holiday and I knew I had to bite the bullet and use the local stealer to keep me mobile. As predicted, after initial diagnosis, their quote came in at £2,639.15, which included replacing an O2 sensor at £125.70. Although I'm fortunate that I could pay the bill, out of principal, I wouldn't. A quick bit of googling revealed that the flywheel BMW fit is manufactured by LUK and the clutch by Sachs. I'm sure a lot of you know this already, but I guess it's useful information for the thread. A quick look at Euro Car Parts revealed that they stock the LUK flywheel and Valeo clutch kit. I then had a look at GSF car parts, who couldn't compete on price for the flywheel, but showed they stocked a 'premium' clutch kit, which a quick phone call revealed as Sachs. With the additional discount for the recent bank holiday, the total cost for parts was as follows (including delivery and VAT): Flywheel - £ 421.89 Clutch Kit - £ 516.51 Whilst this still seems a lot, in comparison against the stealers original quote for these parts at £ 2,156.34 inc VAT, I'd already saved £1,217.94! I realised that I'd still need a few sundry items, such as a new fork, guide bush and various ball pins, spring clips and fillister bolts etc, but the stealer quoted me a grand total of £30.67 for these, so I wasn't concerned. The next step was the labour time and hourly rate. As my car is over 5 years old, the stealer has a 5+ labour rate, fixed at £65 per hour, so not too bad really. We started negotiations at 7.5 hours and ended up (after much research and negotiation) on 4.5 hours. Total labour cost including VAT was therefore £351.00. Total cost for parts, labour and VAT was £ 1,320.07. Yes, this is a lot of money, but we all know that if you own an M car, you can't run them on a Vauxhall / Ford budget and compared to the original stealer quote, was around half the cost. To put this in perspective, the Service Manager advised me that on the same day, they'd replaced a clutch on a 2011 320d and that came in at £1,600. In summary, don't always be afraid of the stealer, but definitely be very wary of their parts costs! I hope this thread helps another M owner and takes some of the scare away about the costs of owning and running these cars. Thanks for reading
  11. Hi all, I've noticed that i have a slight issue sometimes when shifting into 1st gear from neutral occasionally. sometimes when im fully on the clutch, the gear doesnt quite shift into 1st. if i ease up on the clucth a little i can shift it in (saying that, i have to be careful of not grinding the gearbox or stalling). it doesnt happen all the time...its just annoying when pulling off at the lights it may sometimes be a while (~5-10secs) before i actually get it in gear. i did get a new clucth installed at BMW Chigwell on 25/02/11 (so assuming the part is still under warranty). could this be an issue with the clutch or gearbox?...or do they normally do this after time? any thoughts? oh BTW, its a 2005 e60 523i M Sport if that helps..
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