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Found 7 results

  1. Hi Guys, I'm working on a 1997 M62 540i with High Cluster and the coolant gauge refuses to come up. All wiring going into the cluster is correct, sender has been replaced. I've accessed the secret menu and KTMP on the display is giving me good temps. But the gauge needle does not move at all. Anyone experienced anything similar? I'm suspecting that somehow someone messed with the cluster coding resulting in the gauge not working. I've pulled up HEX using PASoft but have not been able to pinpoint the line which defines the temperatures and angles of the temperature gauge. Could someone maybe send me a copy of his coding so that I can compare? Thanks!
  2. Greenninja

    6WB retrofit to F10

    HI all, has anyone attempted to do the following?? http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=700327 I really like the idea of this and by all accounts can be done, my car is a 2011 F10 (unsure if this makes mine LCI or pre LCI????) and what exactly does LCI mean?? Thanks in advance
  3. drpep999

    Instrumentation (I-bus) fault

    Just put everything back together after checking the LCM for corrosion, none found, and I now have the code in the photo and the cluster does not work. Is this a knackered LCM or have I damaged some wires or something. No issue with this before. Thanks in advance.
  4. Looking for an instrument cluster for an 03 E39 diesel. High OBD.
  5. Hi All When I get into my e60 BMW 520se before starting the engine I can hear a clicking noise behind (inside) the instrument cluster. The fuel gauge and rev counter don't work when I start the engine, then after some time the problem goes away and the gauges work. HELP. Is this a bad connection behind the cluster or something more sinister ? Thanks
  6. DrDickie

    Intermittent Cluster issue?

    Newbie here! Got a 2003 525d tourer recently and love it. Until last week I get the self levelling light come on on start up some times which also means no volume control on sterring wheel, no clock and to 'tick' sound on indicators (but they do work), also ne bumper sensors. This cam on and then stopped for almost a week. I tried the second key as I wondered if this was the issue, but neither now fixes issue. Wondered if it was damp. Would removal of cluster and contact spray and reseat connectors be first stop? Any ideas gratefully taken on board as love the drive of my new, old car and having bought it last month, dosh is not flowing to spend £800 on new cluster if possible. Many thanks. DrD.
  7. Hi. I have a 2003 BMW e39 and my car has bad LCD pixels on the speedmeter, so I want to remove the speedmeter cluster and replace the ribbon cable behind the LCD display. On YouTube I found some video instructions of how to remove the cluster from the dashboard and replace the ribbon cable, but some people say once I disconnect the headlight dial cable and the other cables behind the cluster, the headlight and hazard light will turn on even when the car is turned off, so they recommend to remove the battery before I remove the cluster. But I am afraid of losing important settings by removing the battery, so I am looking for another way to remove the cluster without draining battery during the repair. I would appreciate any information!!