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Garage

Found 32 results

  1. Here is an alternative to paying £200+ to BMW to replace your failed IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor.) Many people disconnect their IBS when it fails, and that's fine if your battery is healthy and you use your car daily. But the IBS does a few important things including charging your battery accordingly to its age, and preserving charge when parked for long periods. Here is a step by step guide for diagnosing and replacing your IBS for around £20 instead of £200! If you suspect your IBS has failed (eg your battery is going flat even if it is new) get your error codes read with INPA or similar. This is the code you will see if it has failed, 4477. I think mine failed because water had dripped on it through the rear light cluster gasket, common fault on the E61. BMW updated the sensor at some point during the E60’s life, so you can no longer buy the original one I had. That means you need to buy the new style IBS and a converter loom which together cost over £200 from the dealer! While looking for a used one on eBay I noticed that despite having many different part numbers for different cars including Mini's and other BMW models, all Intelligent Battery Sensors looked fundamentally the same. So I took a punt and bought this one for £20 from an E90 on eBay. Make sure you get the complete set - negative battery cable with IBS, AND the loom. A few days later it arrived, and here it is next to my old one on the left (sorry for the crap photo, it was dark.) Notice that the IBS itself looks different, and also one of the connecting plugs is much bigger on the new one. This is why BMW sell you a converter loom. Here’s a close up of the two sets of plugs next to each other. As you can see one plug is the same on the new loom, only one is different. This made me think that the converter loom was unnecessary, and as it’s only one wire (thick red one) I should just solder on the old plug. This is the label on the new cable, note it mentions several different BMW models including the E90 and E70. It does not say E60, but I was sure it would work as I have seen lots of different ones all with different part numbers but for multiple cars. Just buy one that looks like the one in the photo above and you should be fine. The two plugs chopped off so I can solder the old one (right) on to the new loom. Here’s my new make-shift loom. I put the battery back in, connected the new negative power cable (which is quite fiddly as the nut is behind some trim) and plugged in my new loom. I cleared my error codes, went for a quick drive, read them again and as you can see, no errors! I hope this guide helps other people with the same problem, and saves you some money. I know used parts are always a risk, but at a tenth of the price it will take quite a few failures to be more costly than buying one new sensor!
  2. Hi all, Had to replace the battery today. Bought the car in April. Has consistent SOS call failure and PDC warnings since I bought it - Doesn't worry me since I know how to reverse a car! But have been getting the occasional left rear number plate light failure warning - it works but PO replaced them with LEDs. Also boot button doesn't work because the yelllow (?) wire in the boot loom is severed (separate topic) Battery died a month ago after 2 days sitting in the sun and had to be jumped. Battery died last night after being sat since Saturday evening (2 days) in the rain - so I put it on a charge using the under bonnet connectors. It didn't take anything in the end after the initial boot up. Battery is/ was a Varta G3 80Ah. P/N 595 402 080. Battery compartment, fuse panel and boot was bone dry. No sign of corrosion, dampness - looks brand new. My indie was doing his books today so couldn't run a diagnostic so just advised me to buy a new battery - which I did - a 90Ah one. Fitted it and car runs fine. Perkier too. Questions: What would cause a battery to go dead? Would the SOS and PDC message cause it? Would the bulb failure light cause it? I don't often lock it because the remote key is a bit dodgy - has a short range - would not being locked cause a drain? / keep some circuits on and running? Can my indie find out if there is a current leak/ slow parasitic drain? Thanks, Nick
  3. Irish535d

    How to register battery?

    Hi, Installed a new 90 Ah battery today in the 2006 E60 535 diesel. Took a while to figure out the right amperage so I wouldn't have to code the battery to the car (old battery was a Varta 80 Ah and wasn't sure it was right. Went on to Real OEM and it seemed the only correct listing for a non-AGM battery was local motor factor brand (Prestige) 90 Ah. What is coding the battery to the car all about? Why do you have to register the battery to the car? - never had to do this before. How do you register the battery to the car? I found the following instructions for ISTA: Service functions/ body/ voltage supply/ register battery replacement/ test plan. I tried doing something on iDrive but couldn't get anywhere. Do I have to register the battery to the car? Car drives fine - took it for a 325 minute drive to check it out. Still have the SOS and PDC warnings tho. But the yellow car on a ramp warning symbol is gone (what is that?) Thanks, Nick
  4. Hi folks Longish post unfortunately I have had my 2008 520d Touring for approx 4 weeks, but only had operational for a few days of that due to various errors, which I now think maybe erroneous. So far it’s had approx £1000 (DPF, EGR valve, glow plugs, glow plug relay and boost control valve) spent on it, and still not running properly. One day it’s ok, the next it’s not running well. On both occasions it showed error codes relatiNg to the EGR, even after it was replaced. But the garage verified it was cycling when the ignition is switched on. So I got hold of Ista to try and work out what was going on. It shows different errors each time I run it. I saw elsewhere the importance of having the correct battery fitted. When I checked the cars ecu shows it’s set for 80Ah AGM, and doesn’t show any changes. But in the boot is a std Halfords battery but it’s 95Ah. It looks fairly new though. My question is : Do I replace the battery with an 80Ah AGM type? Or Try and update/code the current battery in to the cars ECU? In the hope that the car will operate consistently Tia Mark
  5. Hi, ive read a few bits on here but nothing is clear to my self. im getting a warning light every time I turn my car off to “charge battery” i was getting this message about 2 weeks ago and I bought a new battery and changed it over, Mechanic told me the battery is old and to change it. So I did. Once i I changed the battery it was working fine until now, today the same warning message showed up. im beginning to think It’s something else now. Is there any checks or something I can carry out my self to find out what’s the problem? my mechanic charges me just to look at a car so trying to avoid unnecessary cost. my car is a BMW 525d 2010. hope this helps and many thanks in advance. meemee
  6. Hi, First introduction to the board but hoping someone can help. I’ve recently purchased a 65 plate 520d and am struggling with the alarm...just setting itself of randomly. It’s just returned from the garage after having the passenger door lock mechanism changed as this was throwing error codes and also showing as opening on diagnostics when locked and the alarm sounding...problem solved, so I hoped. Returned home and it’s still doing the same...but not all the time. Returned to garage but no new error codes and typically didn’t go off whilst I waited. Been parked up at home for 2 hours also without issue but just returned from a trip and it’s back at it again. Anyone had anything similar or possible pointers? This is coupled with the battery discharging when stationary warning too. Many thanks Geoff
  7. This issue has been much discussed, but I'm still not sure whether upon battery replacement, coding is needed. If lets say a temporary 12V supply is fitted under the hood, so that during the replacement there is no power interruption, would everything work without coding necessary? Does anyone know what Ah rating is used on the 520d (E60 2009)?
  8. NuckingFuts

    Battery issues :'(

    Ladies and gents, boys and girls; So earlier this month my battery died after I hadn't driven my 540i Touring (BZ15060) in about 8 days. RAC came and with two jump packs it started and ran sweet. I took the battery out of the car and charged it for about ~30 hours. Battery in the next day and all was well. Cue 10 days later (Christmas eve no less) and I drove to pets at home. The mutt hates me clipping his nails so I thought I'd treat the twat to a wash and clip and the works. Come 90 minutes later and the car won't turn over again. Radio, lights and such all work, just no crank/spark. I've wrangled the battery out and bought a bosch S5 019 as a replacement. The battery compartment in a touring is the worst idea known to man. What the Germans were thinking when they decided to shoehorn a battery into that tiny space I have no idea. I'm almost afraid to put the new battery in incase I break a wire of some kind and it all goes kaboom. Does anyone have any idea as to why the battery would die twice, and in 90 minutes at all? Dash cam was disconnected so no drain there, although that's never been an issue in the year+ I've had that in, however the charger in the cig socket was in there (no cable / phone connected). Also if anyone has any ideas on an easier way to slide the battery in, that would also be welcome. Muchos thanks amigos Ps: there's extra wiring there for the tow bar, and LPG system that the previous owner has installed. I've not fettle about with the car at all, aside from the radio and wheels. All is factory in that respect.
  9. Raptor101

    05 E61 Tailgate Woes!

    Folks, some of your collective advice please? I have an 05 E61 530D with 160k on the clock. A couple of years ago, having left the boot open for a day and running it down, the car failed to start. Battery recharged but was never the same running flat at inopportune moments so had it replaced by a local garage. Since then I've had a variety of issues that are related and some just coincidence some of which have been fixed and some still with me and despite doing a shedload of research I can't seem to pinpoint what may be the issue here. Problems I've had since then: No Bluetooth (greyed out box on iDrive screen). Poor FM reception. Battery drain message. Battery running flat. Random opening of tailgate glass. Failed rear wiper motor. No remote locking key reception - never slowly failed just stopped working one day. Alarm sounds on 50% of opening driver's door with key. Annoying. The rectifications I've completed in the intervening period are: New YUASA batt - correctly coded.The 2nd since I replaced the original 2 years back. IBS disconnected to check the batt drain message - no effect. New rear tailgate glass switch. Stopped the random opening of the glass lid. Both rear hinge wiring looms repaired professionally. O/S done with an aftermarket eBay loom from Germany. Several broken wires found but the fix didn't resolve any of the niggling issues. Removal of Diversity antenna - looks fine without any moisture/corrosion so was put back into position. Rear wiper motor replaced (I think that was just seizure due to position). FM antenna re-positioned under boot spoiler - FM reception now 80% of pre-failure standard. So I still no longer have any Bluetooth or remote central locking. After all my research the finger would be pointed at the Diversity antennna but that looks fine without anything obviously wrong with it. I cleaned it with electrical flux cleaning solution and refitted the cover. At 250 quid I'm loath just to buy another off ebay and hope for the fix. Can they be tested at all? Anyone know of any companies that provide this service? I would appreciate your collective advice as I'm getting rather tired of tghe endless electrical snags this car seems to throw up continually. Really takes the edge off owning a motor like this. Cheers
  10. Dear all, I seen a message pop up recently claiming my key remote battery is low. I am sure this is a DIY job and not an extortionately priced dealer job Does anyone know if doing so risks the key losing its synch with the car? Are there any gotchas basically. Does anyone know exactly what battery I should buy? Is this it --> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Duracell-CR2450-Lithium-Battery-Blister/dp/B0042KL882/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522325477&sr=8-1&keywords=duracell+2450 While I am at it am tempted to change the other case also, the BMW logo button is completely knackered by other keys and it just a silvery mess now. Am sure there must be some OEM cases on ebay! Thanks again!
  11. j2112

    Few issues ........

    Had an issue with a rough idle and when I realised there was an error code for the fuel filter I changed it. However, the idle is still rough at times, even quite violent, though not to the point where you'd think it's going to stall (it's a diesel but you know what I mean). And the code is still present. The fuse seems ok but is there anything else I should have changed or checked when actually replacing the filter? I'll have to remove the panel again and check the connection, but anything else? Also, the SRS warning comes on quite a lot. I've checked all the under seat plugs and reset using inpa. Usually that sorts it for a while. I also read online at one point about disconnecting a small black plug near the battery to assist in this. When I went today to have a look at this I noticed the battery tray was about 2" deep in water! Pushed out what I hope was a grommet and the majority of the water drained out. Quickly panicked and checked under the spare wheel well but it was dry. Phew! I checked the drains at the base of the rear screen but they seemed ok, and though I noticed evidence of water on the vents (on both sides) I don't believe it to be sufficient to cause this. I can't say I have ever noticed the water before. This leads me to the sunroof drains, but as it's raining that'll have to wait. I'm planning on changing the battery anyway (need to read up on that) which will allow me to clean and dry the well and hopefully cleaning all the drains will prevent a reoccurrence. There was also a little water lying in the other side of the car. Again a taste of water around the vent. Needs MOT next month which I'll do before the gearbox service and new battery, in case anything else shows up Should also add that I cannot for the life of me get DIS to connect, so can't do an in depth diagnosis at this stage - I'll have to speak to Jimmy again! So any suggestions or tips gratefully accepted! Thanks
  12. Mrhappy

    Battery type

    Hi, Ive been given a battery from a 2011 3 series that was being sold for spares after having been written off. It is an exide battery but its bmw branded. Its black, which should indicate its an agm type but on the battery it states pb which is lead and has a caution about handling sulphuric acid. Does this indicate it is a lead acid battery despite it being black? There is nothing on the battery that says its agm or lead acid. Ive called bmw and they say the serial number can't be found anymore on their system so they can't say for sure whether its agm or lead acid, they guessed agm as its black but said the current stock show the symbol zn for zinc not pb lead so they can't be sure. I then called exide and they also couldn't identify it as it has bmw part numbers but they guessed its lead acid as the pb and warning seem to indicate. Its a 12v 90ah 900a (en) / 160rc 900cca (sae) spec. The bmw numbers on the battery are; S:61 21 7 575 575 AW: 61 21 6 924 022 My battery on my 5 series is on its last legs and it would be good to use this one instead but I need to program the car either as agm or lead acid type when changing over. Can anyone tell me for certain which type this is, as I don't want to do any damage? Thanks
  13. I have a front and rear dash cam I'm trying to hardware into my E60. Through research I've gathered it's best to fit the live wire directly to the battery in the boot and use the cig lighter fuse for a tap. My problem is getting the cig lighter plug from the cabin into the boot. I've wired it to the C-pillar panels and down the side of the rear seat. I've managed to get it through the door trim and seat bolster where I can see a part of the loom. However it's impossible to get it through there. I've tried between the seat base and rear where the isofix is but there's no gap through there. Any ideas?
  14. Recently my X5 has started to flatten the battery overnight. It's a new battery and has been tested OK as has the Alternator. It seems to run down over a period of ten or more days. There's no real draw seen on the Amps when the engine is off and I'm advised that it could be something starting up during the night and running e.g. Heater. I've started pulling the fuses one at a time (Telephone last week then Heater 34 & 64 this week) to try and isolate the problem - if there is one. Is there a cunning way to check this without a logger? It's used mainly for short journeys so could it be I'm simply not giving the battery enough time to charge?
  15. JCC

    X5 E53 Solar Chargers

    I have a 7W solar charging panel and was thinking of running a wire from the battery terminals in the boot out and connecting to a Visua 7W Solar Powered Battery Charger sitting on the parcel shelf. It does have a Built in Diode to prevent reverse charging. Does anyone see any benefit or harm in this? Would I have to disconnect it before running? jc
  16. Romes

    E34 Battery

    Morning guys, I need a quick bit of help / advice please. My E38 750 has a 700CCA battery in it and its supposed to have 850 - 900CCA. I can buy a battery from Halfords that will fit it no problem but my question...... Can I fit the 700CCA battery in my 525 E34? the voltage is the same and she should only take the Amps needed???? Any help would be appreciated
  17. Aaron Lynch

    530d se battery light on help!

    Ok for the last 2 or 3 weeks my battery light has been constantly on . Iv had no ill effects although the battery isn't very old . The car starts runs and drives fine. Is there any reasons why the light would be constantly on?
  18. Can anyone help please? In the mornings I keep getting the message 'high rate of battery discharge' on my 2005 M5. When I bought the car the guy had had an Ipod adapter fitted. Does anyone suspect that this may be causing the problem? It always looks active when the car is even off. Has anyone else ever had this problem? Thanks, Abi
  19. Vee

    Battery question...

    Hi all, I've just replaced my battery - bit of a knee jerk reaction after the old one went flat. I know I should have checked for battery drain but the old one was a lower spec Bosch S5 than the new one (proper S5 020) and was on the car when I got it 4 years ago. Also, my FSU is only a year old and fully working as far as I know. Anyway, obviously I still want to ensure there are no other issues. Is option 9 on the secret menu a reliable way to gauge whether the battery is charging properly? It shows 11.7v when the engine isn't running, and 13.7v when it is.
  20. Hi all, Back again, I have filtered through a few forums now about new batteries for my 535d e60. Basically I have a Bosch battery in mine, purchased it with it. Since I have owned it the battery goes flat after 3 days of none usage of the beast. I charge it fully and the battery indicator goes green (healthy) I have had a battery tester on it and it says I may want to consider replacing it. My question is. Anyone recommend a good battery that I can trust AND What is this all about having to register the battery with the car? Thanks in advance
  21. Guess I can't put it off much longer, I'm going to have to replace the battery. Have read a bit about the process online, had a couple of tips (thanks again Horsey! ) watched a couple of vids, and now I have a cunning plan! Goes like this.... Checked the currently registered battery using DIS. It's the original BMW 90aH AGM one registered at 0km, so nearly 7.5 years old. Buy identical battery from Cotswold BMW. Unlock the doors, drop all the windows just in case. Connect battery charger to under-bonnet charging point. Remove the top retaining bracket from battery. Disconnect negative cable first, then the positive. Probably use a bit of string to tie them out of the way if the one video is anything to go by! Remove remaining retaining bracket. Slide battery slightly towards rear of car to clear front battery retaining lip and disconnect vent pipe. Remove battery, fit new one. Reassemble in reverse order, as all the best instructions say. Start the car, run DIS, and register the new battery. Maybe set date/time? Heave sigh of relief if solving one problem hasn't caused several new ones. So, can anyone spot any glaring errors or omissions? The car is in for new stats and oil/filter change next week so I could do without any problems as a result of replacing the battery.
  22. I've had a new Bosch battery installed in my car. Numerous electrical issues have now been triggered including no PDC audio, no seatbelt bong when you don't out it on, screen switches on and off. My garage have plugged in their diagnostic and the PDC is measuring distance when you walk around the car but tere isn't an audible tone. The battery has been disconnected and reconnected but we still have these issues... Any guidance appreciated Thanks
  23. Hello Phil, Not sure whether my battery is on the way out. Just in case perhaps you'd be kind enough to give me a price for a replacement as I've been told that the dealer price is pretty competitive. Regards, Tim
  24. Evening ladies and gents, I was having a look about in the boot of my e61 when I got to looking in the battery compartment. Anyway I saw this cable/ connector (the one with a blue bit on it) but couldn't see where it might plug into, any ideas what it's for please?
  25. Let's do this properly. I've been suffering with this problem for a while. Generally when it won't start, charge the battery or jump it and off we go. It never normally has this problem if it's been driven regularly. However everything changed today. Normally if it's having a moment then the dash lights up, turn the key and nothing or just the one click. My other half had to use it this morning, went down wouldn't start. Got the call, she got on a bus and I put the car on charge. 3 hrs later go to see what's happening and nothing. Put some leads to another battery in the garage and off we go. Now I've generally thought it was a battery problem, so I changed it about 5 days ago. This battery is good holds its charge etc but something even more weird happens. Now absolutely nothing. Turn the key all the lights go out the indicator by the gear stick flickers and the battery and seatbelt lights are all that's there. Once again clamp it to the spare and all ok. Another bizarre thing is the clock comes back with a time approx 45 mins earlier. This has happened twice today. It's been suggested that it's a intermittent discharge. When the car was asleep an amp meter was attached and this suggested a drain varying between 0.4-0.8. The alternator creates just under 13 v when it's running. If it's a new alternator then so be it, but if it's not and just a relay....... I don't know really what to do, I could just give it to a garage, pay a mint, just to find its a fuse. Modern cars are a bit above me I'm from an age when you could lift the engine out with your hand, take it apart and all back in the car running in an afternoon! Any help would be appreciated as I don't know where to start.
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