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Found 10 results

  1. Ecobasic

    E39 530D Manual Swap Coding

    Hello dear Community, First of: English isn't my main language - if i make mistakes i'm sorry! I recently bought a E39 530D Auto that got a manual swap. I noticed the cruise control doesnt work and it shows me on the Speedometer that the Gearbox is running in emergency mode. I've seen a few threads talking about the coding to make it work, but not detailed enough for me since i'm a newby in coding. I have all the programms and i know how to save .man files and get them in the car, but i don't know how to code the complete car with the 3 new parameters. I know this asks for a very long posts that clarifys everything but i hope i can find some help here! Best regards, Michael
  2. So, I've bought an F11 528i which ticks all my boxes, but the trade in value I've been offered on my E61 isn't so good. So, I'd far rather sell it here for a fair price - below average value but higher than my trade-in offer - meaning both I and the buyer end up with a good deal. Would be a shame to see this end up at an auction as cheap stock. I think it's "one of the good ones" so too nice for that! BMW 525i SE Touring (E61) 3.0i 6-cylinder engine - 218bhp 6-speed automatic gearbox Averages 29-31mpg 126,500 miles Cruise control, parking sensors, climate control, i-Drive, bluetooth, electric windows/mirrors/seats, auto dimming mirror, auto wipers, auto headlights, etc. 2 keys MOT until November 2020 Removable towbar Smoke and pet free! £3250 for a quick sale before trading in - see below. I bought this in late 2017 and since then, aside from some warranty work carried out by the local BMW dealer, all maintenance and work required has been carried out by my local independent specialist. New MOT a couple of weeks ago. Impeccably smooth drive from both the 6-cylinder petrol engine and the 6-speed automatic gearbox. I've been vaguely thinking of changing the car for a couple of months, but haven't found anything else remotely as nice to drive, until today Condition inside and out is good. Only real mark you'll find is a scrape on the nearside front bumper corner - was a genuine surprise to find that when washing the car recently so no idea where that happened. Other than that, the usual stone chips on the front end (none are through to the metal) and one or two small marks here and there - but I'm nitpicking now. There are some minor marks to the interior door trim on the drivers side, which I suspect are from the previous owner wearing rings or holding keys whilst pushing the door open. My intention when purchasing it was to replace that piece of trim but to be honest, you only see it when you get out - and so I've just never got around to it. The alloy wheels on the car have been fully refurbed and are fitted with all-season tyres, with plenty of tread (5-6mm?) left all around. I am also including another set of identical alloy wheels with the original summer tyres on - these are in "good" but not "excellent" condition - they were previously been painted by the dealer I bought the car from, but without the proper prep being done, so some paint has since flaked off revealing the original paint underneath. Presentable, but not as good as the ones currently fitted to the car. The summer tyres fitted to the spare set have a little bit of life left in them, I've not checked recently but I'm guessing around 3mm, maybe a little less. Whilst I'll include both sets if the car sells on here, if I end up trading it in () it can go with the old, worn set on and I'll sell the nicer wheels with 4-season tyres on here instead. If you do your research and lookup the MOT history you'll see an advisory a couple of weeks ago for a nail in one tyre. Tyre has not lost any pressure since this was pointed out, but I'll get it removed, inspected and repaired anyway, before the car is sold. Removable Bosal swan-neck towbar, fitted in 2017, with 13-pin electrics (dedicated wiring kit, rather than bypass relay). Has only been used a handful of times, so no significant additional load on the car. It's also fitted with an (invisible) Parrot mki9000 bluetooth handsfree kit which I use for handsfree phone calls and music, as the car does not have built-in bluetooth. I don't like the visible aftermarket kits, so chose the screen-free Parrot version, with a remote control which I keep in the ashtray in front of the gearstick, but can also be mounted on the dashboard if desired. It's fully wired to the original BMW stereo/speakers with a dedicated conversion harness - including hooking up to the steering wheel buttons which is not a standard part of the kit. It can also be removed in around 30-45 minutes should you wish, with no damage to the original wiring. It has a full set of service stamps in the book up until I purchased it. Shortly after I purchased it there was a fuel system issue which was repaired by BMW themselves under warranty, and I believe involved a full set of injectors, spark plugs, pressure sensors and a fuel pump being replaced. Since then no further issues - it starts and runs flawlessly throughout summer and winter. All other servicing and maintenance has been completed by my local independent BMW specialist, (almost all local ex-BMW dealer staff), and I have all the relevant paperwork. Specifically, the work I've had done includes: Front ARB droplinks, trackrods & ends replaced Full AC service / recharge / leak test (OK, this was done by the local AC specialist, rather than the BMW specialist... seemed to make more sense) Gearbox sump replaced New battery & starter motor Oil & filters Brake fluid changed I purchased it at around 98,000 miles, and it's just ticked over 126,500 miles. It drives like a car of much lower mileage - and I've never said that about any of my previous high mileage cars! No electrical faults with the tailgate etc - the glass release button did fail at one point but that was the button not the wiring - I replaced myself with a genuine part, as posted on here I believe, and have had no issues since. I've now confirmed the purchase of the F11 and put down my deposit. I collect the car next weekend - 23rd/24th November, so this will be for sale until then - if not sold then I'll be trading it in at that time. If you're willing to commit with a deposit but can't collect before next weekend then get in touch and we'll see if we can work something out. It is also on eBay at a higher price but would rather sell through here if possible!
  3. Hi all, so as the title says, my work horse E39 will be up for sale in a month's time or so. I will pay the money to advertise on here in due course (having major surgery in next couple of weeks) What I wanted to ask, is that there are a couple of bits that need doing to the car, and would i be better off doing them and then selling, or should i leave them for the buyer to do. The temp sensor (engine temp is fine, but dash reading shows -40 degrees regardless of weather) PDC - (had a light front end miscommunication with a motorbike at standstill traffic and insurance replaced the front bumper, but PDC gives a long beep when in reverse but no repeated beeps when i get close to anything) Front wheels vibrate over 60mph (been told that the front wheels are either off an E38 or i have E60 hubs on. Balancing is fine, but there is no 'ridge' on the inside barrel of the wheel) - I have some spigot rings that i haven't had time to fit, no point buying new wheels if the car is being sold and the outlay wouldn't increase the sale price enough i don't think. Self Levelling suspension - this was removed by a previous owner and has shocks and springs on but the SLS light on the dash is present and not been cleared. Have a Full SLS kit from a breaker ready to be fitted should the new owner wish to do so. (F.O.C to new buyer) New wipers and rear brake bulbs will be fitted this weekend, and will be having an inspection II at Birds before sale. Door Lock needs replacing as upon depressing the relevant buttons on the keyfob the drivers door is still unlocked. have a new lock and actuator ready to be fitted Passenger Mirror lens broken - Have power mirrors ready to go on, just waiting for them to come back from a friend who is spraying them for me for a donation of beer tokens. It's an Automatic Titan Silver sport on a 53 plate with just shy of 208k on the clock (I've done 3k since October). Always been on Shell V-Power. Looking to list it at £2000 [what i paid], and don't really want any less than that, unless a purchaser has an E39 M5 to sell, in which case I've got some cash i've squirreled away and will be tempted to do a deal, but again for that my budget will only stretch to a pre-facelift. If you guys have any advice, that would be appreciated, given this is my first E39, and i'm in no shape to do much work to it that would require specialist tools, or jacking the car up, as i have no space (sloped drive) on which to do it, nor ability. Thanks! Deepan
  4. NuckingFuts

    Gearbox Light on Dash

    Morning all, So this morning i started the car as normal, and the usual lights come up. Rear O/S Brake bulb is out, Air Suspension light (no self-levelling) and Airbag (either tensioner, or i still have to book in for the recall on the steering wheel airbag) I started driving away from my driveway and obviously the engine is cold. A bit of a hearty shove to the end of my road, and then the gearbox light has come on. kick down is pretty harsh. can't use my phone and there's nowhere to stop. I carry on to work, (20 minute drive) park up in the carpark, and turn the car off. turn it back on again straight away, and the light was still there. I'll go back and check in a couple of hours when i get a chance to sneak away from my desk, but.... IF it's still on, what does that mean? needs oil or do i need a new gearbox? If it goes, is all well or should i get it inspected or top up the gearbox oil anyway? Would this be the opportunity to do a manual ox swap if anyone has the parts to sell? Thanks in advance. Deepan
  5. mejinks

    6hp19 Reverse dodgy

    Hi guys. I've got an odd issue in that when the car has been driven for a while, engaging reverse seems to be very weak and will sometimes slip, giving the red cog of death. Sometimes, turning off and on again gives reverse again, but not always. When driving from cold, reverse is never an issue. I had the gearbox oil and pan changed about 10k ago, maybe less. Any ideas?
  6. Hello I've had, and loved, my 2001 530i with M-Tech suspension for over 10 years now, from 32k up to 180k. Never let me down and been all round the best car I've ever had (only bought it to keep for a year and just couldn't sell it once I got to know it!) Problem is, now at 180k, reverse gear has started to do a kind of judder, and sometimes slips. Not always, but 3 out of 5 times I reverse. I did read on here that reverse is the first thing to go in these gearboxes and I suspect it's complete rebuild time - but I need to get to work for the next few weeks and I'm hoping to delay it till I can find a solution. So, I'm just wondering how many instances of reversing I might have before it finally gives up. I know it's an impossible question to answer with complete certainty, but wondered if anyone here has experience of this going on them? Is it likely to last 10 journeys, or 50 maybe? It's managed maybe 10 reversing instances since I first felt the judder, mostly on tickover trying to nurse it along.. Thanks in advance for any wise words...
  7. Hi everyone I'm new to the forum and I registered with the hope of getting some much needed help. I am on contemplating/on the verge of buying a 1975 528 E12 Automatic. The car is in good condition. It's mechanically sound and the owner recently did quite a bit of maintenance on it (Replaced front shocks, all four bearings, skimmed discs and replaced drag link). It's also completely original down to the tool kit, radio etc. The interior is near flawless apart from two cracks on the dash and a slight separation of one of the panels below the steering wheel. The car comes with a full size original BMW spare wheel. The car drives like a dream, it has plenty of power and major appeal. I am in love with it and it's literally all I can think about. However, it's 37 years old and there are some issues... Minor rust (which is to be expected really) on all four doors. It doesn't seem to affect the integrity of the doors however as all four remain solid to the touch. Paint on some areas of the car, namely the roof and bonnet, has begun to lift as a result of exposure to the sun (again, it's to be expected for a car this old). The odometer stopped working some time ago but the owner reckons that the car has done over 230 000 km's. All other gauges are fully functional though. The owner also claims that the car has a slight oil leak, but that it's not visible or does not occur when the car is parked. He said that he has only notices a drop in the oil level after long trips. In which case, he just tops it up. I desperately need advice from those who have owned or worked on BMW's to determine whether or not buying this car is a sensible choice. I currently drive an entry level, late model Opel Corsa Lite. It's been reliable up to a point, but now needs its computer box replaced. Any work done on my current vehicle is very costly and it's upsetting that it will remain costly for the foreseeable future. I generally have this work done through the dealer because I'm worried about resale value. At the same time, I have no plans to sell the vehicle, so all I'm doing is watching it depreciate while investing large amounts of money on servicing through the dealer and occasional repair. My idea was to acquire an older car like the E12 and use it as a daily driver, making sure that I keep it tip top condition and further restore it over time. What can go wrong if I go through with this? Would I be making a huge mistake by buying this car and selling my Opel? I could use the surplus of cash from selling my Opel for other projects at home, but I would hate to be stuck with a huge financial drain as a result of buying the E12. What do I do?
  8. Hi I have a 1992 Bmw 525i Auto with the 2.5 M50 engine, my car is showing some of the symptoms of a headgasket failiure. The symptoms are : Lack of power, Misfire under acceleration, oil in water, water and oil level dropping and constant white smoke. Earlier I checked my spark plugs after starting it to see if there was a green tint but there was nothing although the spark plugs were covered in carbon fouling. It has shown no signs of overheating and there is absolutely no pressure in the cooling system. Is this a headgasket failiure? If not what is wrong with my car? Many Thanks E34MAN92
  9. Fresh

    sluggish auto box

    Hi all Is there anything I can do to improve my auto gearbox on my e61 525d msport tourer? if left in normal auto mode, she seems to hold on to gears forever, despite very light, or no throttle. Also it occasionaly 'shunts' into 1st gear when i've stopped at lights etc...... Do not have different modes to choose from, but it does seem to be stuck in a very sporty mode??? Can i get this changed? I thought these gearboxes learnt, or were inteligent?? Any help please?
  10. Went to pick up my Dads new (to him at least) 1999 facelift 728i last night. Lovely car absolutely immaculate apart from 2 things, none of the buttons work on the steering wheel and the air bag lights on but thinking that's just the clock spring. The main thing being that transmission fault on the dash, goes out when you drive it and drives like new, just curious as to weather anyone knows what's causing it. After a bit of research I am thinking that it is possibly the battery as the car has been stood for a couple of month on a forecourt, and it would make scense as apparently this can come up when the battery voltage dips a tad. Does anyone know of any other problems with the same symptoms? A sensor? Tim
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