Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'air'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Rules & FAQs
    • Rules & FAQ's
  • Sponsors
    • Chris Knott Insurance services
    • Cotswold BMW
    • MStyle
    • BMW Cables
  • General
    • Hello I'm New
    • General Discussion
    • DVLA and Insurance Queries
    • Picture & Video Gallery
    • Suppliers
    • Fun Stuff
    • Spotted
  • Meets & Events
    • BMW5 Meets & Events
    • Non BMW5 Trackdays
    • Other Meets & Events
  • Classifieds
    • Cars
    • Parts & Breakers
    • Wheels & Tyres
    • General Items
    • Wanted
    • Autotrader, eBay, Pistonheads etc Adverts
  • Technical
    • E12 1972-1981
    • E28 1982-1988
    • E34 1988-1996
    • E39 1996-2004
    • E60/E61 2004-2010
    • F07/F10/F11 2010-2017
    • G30/G31 2017-
    • ///M Powered
    • ALPINA 5ers
    • Audio & Navigation
    • Intravee
    • Diagnostics
    • Coding
    • Detailing
    • Projects
    • Track Talk
  • Other BMW Technical
    • 1 Series
    • 2 Series
    • 3 Series
    • 4 Series
    • 6 Series
    • 7 Series
    • 8 Series
    • i Series
    • X Series
    • Z Series
    • Other BMW Tech Talk
  • Other Technical
    • Other Marques
    • Computer General Help

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



Website URL





Found 8 results

  1. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    If you are thinking of buying a cold air intake, then think twice before you go out and spend your money on a aftermarket cone air filter to be fitted in the engine bay. You should also be aware of that it probably will not benefit anything, in terms of getting more cold air to the engine over the air intake you have but unfortunately often quite the opposite effect so that the engine will draw hotter air in from the engine bay, sins it is hard to eliminate the hot air in the engine bay from outside air. I had some issues with the heat in in the engine and actually got up to 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f air temp. measured inside the manifold, at standstill and idling, with outside temperature at 20°c/68°f. This heat buildup is manly due to all the tuning and modifications I have made to the engine. To tackle this heat buildup I had two simple choices, ether more cold air from the outside or an external oil cooler. I opted for both solutions and the results where that the core heat (mostly the heat of the oil) of the engine dropped from 103°c to 93°c/217°f - 199°f and air temp inside the intake manifold from 62°c. to 43°c./144°f - 109°f I bought a used air filter housing with the additional air intake spout (you can see the spout I'm talking about in the picture of the oil cooler setup "final setup") that takes air in from the wing. The hole is there on the inner side of the wing (looks like BMW anticipated a need for some more fresh air for the bigger engines) so no modifications needed. Further more, I removed the resonant baffle that potentially could restrict fresh cold air intake and finally, I shortened and opened up the main air intake that sits in the front of the radiator. The peace I removed from the air filter housing is a silencer, that looks like it should provide some venture effect. The dilemma was, does the engine need more air at lesser velocity, or less air at faster velocity? I opted for more air at a lower velocity although both would be the best of both worlds. Works fine for me and the MAF. After the air improvement I noticed that I had to rewrite and fine tune some of my bin. files, sins the engine is running cooler and colder more dens air is coming into the engine, hens more fuel can be added to the A/F ratio. That where my primary thoughts behind this mod, to gain more HP without melting the engine. The numbers speak for them self's and the problem with the rising core heat is solved.
  2. If your estate BMW 5 Series (known as a Touring or the F11 or the GT F07) has its backside on the ground one morning or you have an error message on your dash relating to a ride fault or an air suspension fault, have a look through these threads to give you an idea on what the issue is and how to resolve it. This is a collection of just some of the threads to be found on here, not all are one here simply due to the fact, they were never resolved or closed out so there is nothing to be learned from them. This is purely a reference thread to other posts on here and is not to be used as a discussion thread. Failure symptoms above thread was closed out in last post of this next thread DIY guide to replacing the rear sir springs. DIY Guide to replace the solenoid valve System Behaviour Normal behaviour Compressor Compressor removal (access needed to NewTIS) Compressor Faults Ride Height Queries F11 Rear suspension height F07 Ride height query F11 ride height to high One side failure F07 Bump Stop issues Disintegrating rear bump stops Valve block Air spring fault Lowering of an F11 Standard or MSport Air spring differences Tech chat on tools needed for air line. Relay If you want another thread adding to this, please message me and I'll reference it in here.
  3. ingvaldsen

    air suspension Nightmare

    Hello im struggling with airleak on my 03 530dat... it drops about 2cm per hour. The car has new arnott bags, new compressor from a car that did not leak at all and i have checked every singel join and connection it can leak without finding one... im starting to go crazy what have i missed ? It drops even on both sides, and the airtanks under the car is also free of leaks
  4. Good Evening All, I have been having the same error message coming up on my car now for a while "cornering ability restricted", i replaced my rear air bags in February this year and all was ok originally, then a few days later the fuse to the compressor blew, so i replaced that and went on my way the car performing perfectly well. a few weeks later the error message i've already mentions popped up on the screen, however my car doesn't have any symptoms and it drives perfectly. To begin with the error message was intermittent occasionally coming up. I will be honest i ignored it because nothing is wrong with the car. The message now continuously comes up whenever i drive the car. I decided to get a Autophix ES910 diagnostics tool to try and read the fault code - after clearing many faults the one that came back straight away was - 480DA0 Discharge Valve: Voltage Fault. I assume this is linked with the air suspension and possibly the discharge valve on the compressor has something to do with it. however the car is absolutely fine? Can anyone help on this, i don't want to start spending money on replacement items if i don't have to? Many Thanks
  5. Hello all, I'm new here and I just got my first ever Beamer, e39 Tourer 530d of all things. I have a well documented issue with the rear air suss whereby it performs as expected when the car is running and when not running the rear drops completely symmetrically on both sides, I had it up the ramp last night, air bags seem ok, no cracks, no hissing. And after the car is started they pump up quite quickly and the ride/handling seems fine during a run. Given the myriad of posts out there I realise this is old hat but I havn't managed to sift through the noise to find article that describes this exact problem and because I've never owned one I guess I really don't know the expectation from the rear suss. I'm presuming we're not talking citroen here and I am not expecting the car to drop while not powered? If so I'm thinking compressor or levelling sensor failure? I don't get any lights on the dash about levelling issues when I start the car, I also noted a you tube clip showing the same issue but the guy had just changed his air bag and needed to reset the computer. Usually with these compressor scenarios there is some sort of non return valve that prevents air coming back out of the system; looks to me like a similar component is failing cause this sag on both sides? Anyway any advice would be welcome at this stage, thanks again
  6. Just been flicking through bmwfans.info for my car as I am looking at sorting out the air con and noticed that there are two types of aux / additional fan. Anyone know the difference between the std air con auxilary fan & the trailer coupling option? They look like one pushes and one pulls? I didn't recall mention of the fan in the trailer coupling retrofit guide ... Can someone take pics of the fans if there car was specced with air con and trailer coupling? T I A Additional fan part number 64 54 1 392 913 (http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E34/Touring/Europe/525ix-M50/RHD/M/1993/july/browse/heater_and_air_conditioning/climate_capacitor_additional_blower/) Additional fan (Magna) for e34 with Trailer coupling 64 54 1 381 395 (http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E34/Touring/Europe/525ix-M50/RHD/M/1993/july/browse/heater_and_air_conditioning/electric_additional_fan/) I bought the 913 part number fan from Euro Car Parts and checked with them just in case the the part numbers refer to the same unit but they don't They can sell me the 395 unit.
  7. Hi guys i have a M47 2.0 litre diesel engine in my E60. It has only covered 42k miles but because of a lack of service history when i bought it, just for my own satisfaction i serviced the car. The parts which i serviced included: Oil change Oil filter Air filter Pollen filter Fuel filter All parts were purchased from ECP. When the fuel, air and pollen filters were removed they were disgusting. Its like they has never been changed before so glad i done this. However since the service (now this maybe me) my diesel engine sounds a little louder than normal - especially from inside the car. Why would this be the case? Is this normal? Also just to add to this, i have recently changed the EGR Stat and Main Stat.
  8. Hi guys I really need some help. I have only owned my 520D LCI M Sport Auto for 2.5 months and I think its gonna be an expensive ride to keep and maintain - I hope its just me being over paranoid, but please have a read of the problems I am having. I am the second owner on my vehicle, according to the service manual its had 3 services, 2 prior to owning the car, and 3rd was done at 40k when I bought the vehicle. I don't think any services have been done on the car as the original pollen and air and fuel filter were still in the car, and I do not think the garage I bought the car from did an oil change either (I am assuming this based on the fact that its been 2 months I have been chasing him for an invoice, and he has failed to send me this. I was told he was going to type one up and post it me, which never happened) Whilst under the car noticed that a few clips and screws were missing for th eparts you would remove in order to get to the turbo, so I am assuming my car has had a turbo change also! Rather than repeating myself again in this thread I have attached a link to the other thread I have listed my problems in as they do not stop there. Hope you can help/advise me what to do http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/87246-advice-needed-changing-brake-pads-discs-sensors-hand-brake-shoes/?p=921643 Also my stats have gone coz the temp is below 80C whilst I was driving on motorway, which means my car has poss been not regenning either, (only god knows how long this has been for) so I may well have a blocked DPF very soon too! GREAAAAT!!!! Also when I was messing around in the hidden menu, I found a message reading 320d now what does that mean - could this poss tie in with my doubt of having a replacement turbo in my car?