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Hey guys thought id do a wee separate thread on this as ive just finished my install. Couldn't find a thread like this when I was doing mine, over the course of the restoration. Bit of a read sorry, but will help if you are replacing OEM stuff. Total cost was under £400. Speakers are easy any 13cm decent brand speaker will do you will I opted for Sony XS-FB1330, I replaced all 4. Tips: use some window draft sealer on the speaker where it meets the OEM housing for best sealed sound quality, and if you gently pull the OEM foam of you can easily reuse with a little contact adhesive. 2 in the rear parce shelf and 2 in the front door cards, I left the OEM tweeters in place. Heatunit is a little more complicated. My requirements where I wanted a volume knob, apple car play, and steering buttons to work. So I opted for a Sony xav-ax1000, very nice unit by the way and that powers the 4 speakers with 4x45w Amps. for the facia I bought a cheap one off chinabay, there are a few different models around, I personally think the one I have looks best, most stock if you will. Now you don't need to modify it, but I did for the perfect fit, I used the sony mounting bracket and gorilla glued it onto the plastic fascia, this mounted the headunit perfectly flush once fitted in place. The fascial clips into the gap left by the OEM headunit nicely, and to remove the new headunit I find it easier just to pull the hole thing out as one piece with the fascia included. easy with a couple plastic pry tools. Now the connection part: not all e39s are the same, mine had amp in the boot, so speaker cables where in the boot. I ran an ISO harness from the boot to the back of the headunit, down the left side of the car, just remove the scuff plates on the doors and push it into the carpet. You'll need an ISO adapter in my case 17 pin round (OEM) to ISO some might have flat pins. And the adapter connect the old amp connector to the new ISO harness which connects to the back of the headunit. Simple! Now for the "bits": Steering button you'll need a connects2 adapter, theres a couple models, but the CTSBM003.2 works on the e39, now this goes behind the headunit, the input to which needs to come form the Ibus cable original in the amp in the boot. I just cut the original cable and patched it into one of the ISO cables that weren't being used. and did the same at the new headunit end, patched it into the connect2 unit. then the unit connects to your headunit with a 3.5mm headphone jack. This worked perfectly all you have to do is in the settings of your headunit set ut to custom kets for the remote and it will prompt you to press the individually until it recognises the button and then you can assign it to what ever function you want. For the auto dimmer function, which again won't work unless you connect another switched 12v to the orange cable in the ISO harness. Easy way to do this is to patch a cable from the rear position light to the ISO harness in the boot. So when you turn the lights one it sees a signal and dims the screen. One this I found is that the ISO lead constant power (not the switched) wasn't powerful enough, so I ran a separate new constant 12v to the back of the headunit and didn't use the one from the ISO harness. Lastly a very sleek sub instal. These new undersea subs are fantastic, lots of brands do them, I opted for a Pioneer TS-WX130DA, only because there was a new one on FB going cheap. There all similar in size and power, 160w in this case active, so easy to install. I was planning on cutting a speaker sized whole in the ski hatch and mount it in the boot behind it, but when I got it and was fiddling with the placement I noticed its a perfectly tight fit wedged between the seat, tight enough that its not moving. plus its nice an vibration free! and looks good I think. Easy to quickly disconnect and put aside if I need to close the armrest, as its not affixed anywhere. Connecting it is easy came with cables and fuse, ran to the battery for power, ground and swiched power from the ISO harness same as the headunit. Then run a RCA cable from the headunit under the side of the car up under the back seat to it. The cables from the battery go behind the boot lining and through a OEM hole thats in the ski hatch area. Everything works great! and looks great to, I think anyway. Hope got helps someone. Sound is Epic, needs the sub to be good definitely.