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Found 10 results

  1. V_MAX

    Deletion Of The Throttle Body Heater

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Deleting the warm up for the throttle body housing was my last attempt to lower the intake air heat. For some reason I was reluctant for years, to delete this BMW feature. I thought to myself, that there must be some reason for going through all the trouble of designing warm-up features into the throttle housing, as if this was a piston airplane engine that you turn the carb. heat on, mostly when you are coming in for landing to prevent the carburetor to ice up and consequently, you lose all power, with a possible bad or fatal ending. I remember when I was learning to fly that you had much less power, if you forgot to cut off the carb. heat, after touch and go. I read somewhere that BMW introduced this feature due to some possibly related accidents due to a throttle body ice-up under certain weather circumstances and therefore, consequently you might end up with an open full throttle, or more likely a closed throttle with no power and a panic attack. Another hypothesis I have been rolling around in my head is; that most likely BMW introduced this to make a stable environment for the tuning of the ECU/engine, sins this would hold a steady and stable heat on the intake ambient air and smaller intake air heat variants. This would benefit the environment and lower emission sins the ECU is not coping with large swings in ambient air heat. On the other side, it bothers me that; the MS41 ECU is a magnificent peace of computer programing and all the parameters are there, to cope with amongst other tings, a different intake heat and ambient heat, so why did the engineers at BMW do this? honestly, I have not found a definite answer to that question yet. Maybe it is different for an M52 intake manifold than the M50 sins the intake plenum are much narrower on the M52 and thereby it would create higher air velocity/venturi and colder intake air to the head, this is just a speculation on my behalf but the fact is; that venturi effect drastically reduces the ambient air temperature in a carburetor up to 70° sins it partly relies on ventuti effect, due to restrictions in the neck (that is where the icing occurs in conjunction with the butterfly) of the carburetor, but in our case there are considerably little restrictions in the throttle body itself exempt the butterfly but still, there is a possibility of icing happening if the circumstances are correct. The initial tests after bypassing the water hoses leading to the throttle body and blocking of the holes show; that the water coolant, that had at times reach almost 99°c /210°f fell down to steady 87,7°c and could reach up to 88,4°c/189,9°f up to 191,1°f (that was mainly due to the oil cooler, has nothing to do with the heater bypass) and the intake temperature in the manifold fell drastically down also, from 43°c./109°f down to 24°c/76°f (that was mainly due to bypassing the throttle body heat) at standstill and idling with outside temp. at 12°c/54°f, that is a reduction of approximately 61 to 65% from the start, without the oil cooler and air intake mods, when the manifold inside heat was at 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f, with ambient temperature at 20°c/68°f. The easiest way to do this bypass is simply; loosen both of the water hoses from the throttle body and also the shorter hose to from the metal pipe. Through away the shorter one and reconnect the remaining longer one, to the metal outlet pipe from the engine, job is done and the water circulates its natural way through the pipes bypassing the throttle body. This heat reduction, gives me much more elbow room to tune the A/F ratio and timing amongst other parameters within the MS41. You can read more about my tackle with heat, with "Engine Oil Cooler Final Setup_E39_M52b25"
  2. V_MAX

    M50 manifold and modification to M52

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    M50 manifold and modification. The way I made this modification is only one way to make the pluming work- there are many good information on the internet and some kits that you can buy to install. I chose to let this look as much as the original M52 setup and thereby I use al the original parts converted over to the M50 manifold. The air intake temperature sensor on the m50 is far on the back side and it should be blocked (just leave the old M50 temp in) instead, use the one for M52 in the center of the under side cover plate from the M52 manifold. Otherwise you will get a wrong air temperature reading inside the manifold which is not so good for the ECU readings. There are two supports for the manifold, one in the back and one in the front that bolt to the engine and the manifold. You can use the brackets that are meant for the M52 manifold, simply by widening the holes outward, that bolt to the manifold itself. I added on both sides of the cover some metal plates so I could bolt the the bracket that holds amongst other things the pressure regulating valve, some cal it "oil separator". There are two things more that you have to get or fabricate and that is a metal plate between the manifold and the throttle body and you have to use two gaskets, one on each side of the "adapter metal plate". The other thing is a round dowel/peg usually made out of aluminum that you have to glue in the back of the M50 manifold. I am not certain, but I think that this hole was used for the pressure regulator on M50. Vacuum leaks are one thing you do NOT want to happen, so be diligent when mounting the under side cower plate from the M52 to the M50 manifold, in addition to the gasket use either glue, like some good epoxy glue, or use a gasket mounting silicon that can withstand oil and heat. By doing it this way, everything looks like the original stock BMW and all your future part changes will fit without any hassle.
  3. Leo aka Horse-On-Wheels_MS

    BMW E34 525IX By howms

    Hello all, I wanted to start a thread and share my story on my E34Ix that I acquired totally by accident last year in November without seeing it or test driving it! (what could've gone wrong lol), and how I discovered that I bought an absolute lemon(that is somewhat worth saving) The story: Back in September 2019, I had saved up and then I was looking for a project car that I can use to commute and I was in the market mostly for an e30 or e36 and I would only consider an e34 and e39 under certain conditions and one day I was scrolling through an overpriced e30 and I caught a glimpse of an e34 and as I looked into it and found out it was an ix which is quite rare now especially in red, as I thought it would be a good base to put down more power or I could rwd it if I don't fancy it down the line, my biggest concern was it being a cloth interior automatic(wanted a manual) with a tired paintwork but I went for it anyway so the journey begins by paying £1.7k for the damn thing... Specsheet: Better picture coming soon
  4. jcrackincarter

    BMW E34 525i White Cruiser

    Hello fellow forum members, here I would like to present my BMW 525i AUTO as when I bought it in December 2014. Not a massive fan of the grey interior. And here is the dream. To drive it around Europe. A considerable amount of time has elapsed already, and much more will pass; its a journey. It is also journey in gaining knowledge and experience of mechanics, because at the time of purchasing this car I didn’t have a clue. I was to learn so much within the first few months of working on this car. 2015 jobs completed: Headlight replacement Water pump and belt Driver side door lock actuator and door handle Thermostat and housing Shocks and springs (lowered) 2016 jobs completed: Exhaust brackets and hangers New alloys (temporary) To be done: Head gasket Reverse lights Dent removal Respray Refurb leather and probably many more I originally bought my merky, grey beast as a donor car for a 518i that I wanted to restore and modify. This is the 518i. As you can see, the 525i was a far better car! The 525i was purchased December 2014. On the way home it overheated. The radiator had been recently replaced and we found the overheating problem was caused by an improperly bled coolant system from whoever fitted the new radiator. The car drove badly, the shocks were knackered, headlight was smashed and we were loosing water. Job no.1 - find that leak. Jan 2015 - Firstly we found the water pump was leaking severely so we replaced that. The spindle was wobbling about all over the place and water was pouring out of it. Fun job! During this time I also replaced the smashed headlight with the good one from the 518. Yes, the 518 wasn’t a complete waste. In fact, one of it’s wing mirror plastic covers was resprayed and replaced a very butchered one on the 525i, and various bits of trim and clips were salvaged. I also ripped all the door cards off to oil the window mechanisms and to replace the driver side door lock actuator and handle. Replacing the water pump didn’t seem to fix the entire leak. It was better but wasn’t completely eradicated. With the help of one of my more mechanically minded work colleagues, I discovered the thermostat housing was leaking. There was dry coolant residue around the fixing points, so the housing and the thermostat it itself was replaced. There was still a coolant leak! Much smaller as you could imagine but still enough to be a concern. I kept the car on the road to monitor the leak, to do this I thought it would be a good idea to make it more safer to drive so my next job was to replace the shocks and springs. The 518i was sold on to a car breaker around this time. I got my money back on it via the spares I removed. I also looked at my reversing lights as they weren’t working. The cabling loom that runs into the boot lid had wires with cracked insulation and some had snapped. I cut the bad cabling out and soldered in some fresh cable but it still didn’t fix the problem. The fuse and bulbs were fine which mean’t it had to be the switch on the gearbox, unfortunately located on the top as they are with the autos. Bummer. July 2015 - For the 525i suspension, I purchased Bilstein shocks and Vogtland lowering springs. 40mm lower at the front, and 20mm at the back. This was a massive job for me, having little experience at this point with cars this was fantastic. I thoroughly enjoyed spending many hours ripping the interior and the under carriage of this car apart, drinking beer in the sunshine upon the sloped brick patio at the entrance to the garage, listening to ACDC. Life was good. Anyway, with the Bimmer lowered she looked the part. Those wheels started to grow on me. It was a fix/modification that subtly changed the aesthetics, but massively changed the handling. Phooaar she drove nice. That leak was still there though. Looking for this leak, I found no signs at all and from reading some forums online it had to be the headgasket. I enjoyed the car for the summer as the leak got worse and worse and in the end I parked it up for the winter. March/April 2016 - A few of weeks ago I put it on the road with the intention of getting the leak looked at by a pro to confirm that it was definitely the head gasket. The exhaust fell off on the way. Dam. Two brackets had rotted out and the rubber hangers had perished. All fixed and my friend (the mechanic) found no signs of leaks other than dried coolant residue sitting between the head and the block. Hmmm. It had to be the head gasket and to confirm this, I put in some K seal. No more leaks! Which is great so I can drive it round for the summer but bad news as it is definitely the head gasket. Before I start the daunting task of a head gasket replacement, I refurbished some alloys sold to me by a colleague. They look pretty good even though they’re not the wheels I really want, but its a step in the right direction. The car needs some serious bodywork which will come in good time. So this is the point I am at. Much more work to be done. I cannot wait to get on with the head gasket. Some other photos: I shall update on my progress.
  5. Hi guys, had my replacement transmission fitted, however the mechanic reported that the gear lever was in a weird position! The first picture is the gearbox in neutral, the second is the gearbox in reverse! Neither of us had any trouble selecting gear, and the box shifts sweetly, however we cannot work out why the lever is in this position. My car is a July 95 build, and the car the gearbox came out of was an L reg (believed early 94) 520i. I checked part nos online and they are the same for shift linkages up to 10/94 and from 10/94 onwards. The fact they divide the years up suggests something is different... My my mechanic is very good, but we are both stumped! Any ideas? Simple case of mal adjustment? If I can get the original linkage from the supplier would that work? Any help appreciated and thank you in advance!
  6. GlasgowAlex

    New To The Forum, E34 Owner.

    Hi Guys, Just thought I'd introduce myself to the forum. My name is Alex and I'm the proud owner of a 95 520i SE in Ascot Green Metallic (of course). I'm relatively new to BMWs having owned this car since September last year but have had some Audis and Land Rovers in the past. The ultimate goal for the car is to load it with as many factory options as possible and get everything back to showroom condition. I live in Glasgow and would love to get to meet some local owners. Alex
  7. Nordhorn

    E34 from Norfolk

    Evening all, about time I get on here as I'm damn sure its going to be useful. So I reluctantly sold my first car, a 1996 MX5, owned for the last 1 and a half years its done me good but I needed something to lug my bicycles around the country and abroad so I went in search of something larger... Which has thus landed me with this 1995 525 touring. Being only 21, my colleagues and friends are disgusted by the fact i've bought an estate and despite my reasoning they persist in calling me an "old man" they just dont understand . Regardless I picked this because of the m50 lump and manual box which was what I'd been waiting for. Previous owner swapped in a set of heated sport seats which im not complaining about at all and despite the usual roof lining sag the inside interior pretty sound. Exterior is good for the age imo with the only real grumbles for me being the scabby roof rails, crack in bumper and the rust around the filler cap, all of which should be fixed over time. Now the unfortunate part, no MOT ... I carted it from Birmingham to Norfolk and I now need it MOT'd, it failed on 1 tyre being below the limit, corroded brake lines front to rear n/s and worn drop link. So not really any major probelmos. Having fallen into the metric tyre trap I didn't really fancy the idea of £150 a corner on old rubber and i've picked up a meaty set of style 66's saving my wallet a wedge there. And thats really the story so far. Next on priority list is sorrting the lines and drop link for the MOT and then who knows.
  8. Hey guys, So the M50 sits in the bay nicely. The G240 tran I used sits on the original mounts nicely. But.. As you can see, the sump is hanging down too low. I'll have that demolished by a British speed bump within a few minutes I used the mounting arms and rubbers from the M20. All seems okay elsewhere. Just the sump being too close to the floor for my liking. Aswell as, she's being lowered so... can't have this. Anyone any ideas? I've heard of using metal plates to push the engine up. This sounds like a good idea to me as I have enough clearance on top to push her up a bit more and I can do the same to the tran-mounts. no way of the Intake fitting with the standard brake servo so, have an 944 one inbound but maybe if I push the N/S up a bit, it might help some more?! I'm pretty okay with the mounting arms I have. I'm pleased they fit nicely. The rubbers are from the old car and are 26 years old so I will defo be changing them anyway. Any better ones I can buy? Like... would anyone suggest an alternative? otherwise i'm just going to buy the E28 M20 ones again. What would YOU do in my position? all help greatly appreciated! Daz
  9. DazH

    Hello 5er Folk!

    Hello Fellow 5er Pilots! My name's Darren and from South-East London, Bermondsey. some 'Might' recognise me from BMW owners club Uk. I have me a gorgeous '87 E28 520i. Not looking so gorgeous right now as it only has half an engine and a dismantled... well... Everything. I'm about half way through an M50 conversion. Good fun, Good fun. Just joining for the banter really. I'm quite savvy with a spanner so, if I can assist I shall! Maybe some of you older folk can lend a hand with my motor to! Anyway, I have a facebook page I recently started so if anyone wants to join in on that, feel free https://www.facebook.com/BmwE28SocietyUk Hope to jump in the forums as soon as possible thanks very much Daz
  10. Hi I have a 1992 Bmw 525i Auto with the 2.5 M50 engine, my car is showing some of the symptoms of a headgasket failiure. The symptoms are : Lack of power, Misfire under acceleration, oil in water, water and oil level dropping and constant white smoke. Earlier I checked my spark plugs after starting it to see if there was a green tint but there was nothing although the spark plugs were covered in carbon fouling. It has shown no signs of overheating and there is absolutely no pressure in the cooling system. Is this a headgasket failiure? If not what is wrong with my car? Many Thanks E34MAN92
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