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Found 26 results

  1. Hi All, It's been a while since I last posted on here, but I thought I would share with you an issue I faced with my car last week, the terrible advice and technical knowledge I got from Vines and my pleasure at finding sound advice from BMR Turners Hill West Sussex... So my F11 LCi 525d went into limp home mode after its service last week at Vines of Guildford, so I took it back to them. They did a diagnostic and was told either the intake manifold actuator had failed and was not activating one of the swirl flaps, which would be replaced under warranty or, if the actuator has failed due to the engine being coked, then I would need a replacement intake manifold and have an engine de-coke which is not under warranty. What made me question Vines BMW methods was they said that they needed to remove the manifold to determine whether the engine was indeed coked which would be 3 hours labour and once they had removed the manifold I was committed to any repair. This is simply nonsense, and I told the service advisor as such. A simple compression test would be able to ascertain whether there was a coking issue and secondly the manifold was a single enclosed item that had a few bolts and could be removed in 10 minutes and thirdly if you are able to ascertain that there is or is not a coking issue, to claim I am now committed to the repair was total rubbish as they are more than capable of putting the manifold back. He did not seem to know what to say at that point. He then said he was unable to quote for the job, but only offer an estimate as the job could take up to 3 days… Again total tosh…. If there is a de-coke needed it takes 30 minutes to do (I had it done to my mini last year) not the 4 hours he said it would take and replacing the manifold would take tops 20 minutes so the maximum time is an hour. He said it was a hugely complicated job and I clearly did not know what needed to be done , which as you can imagine angered me somewhat…. After I demonstrated I knew exactly what was involved and the time it took he admitted that he need the flexibility as they were down on staff. I said I was not prepared to pay for time that was not needed and to say he needed three days was ridiculous. He then got his boss who agreed they only needed 3 hours, but I still said no you don’t and what the hell were they pulling. This is after performing a service on two occasion that was not what I booked and tried to charge me for……So I said that I wanted the car back and they tried to protest saying I could not drive it home… again clap trap as the limp home only happened once and did not do it again. The estimate came in via email and was from £1,700 - £2,200 (inc VAT) but subject to change, but the minimum being £1,700…. They also said the job would only take 3 hours but would need to have the car for 3 days due to staff shortages…..Fast forward to yesterday. I decided I was going to take the car to the BMW specialists in Turners Hill near me called BMR and the chaps that did my Mini’s cam chain. I started the car and the engine management light came on but the car seem to be behaving correctly. Got to the garage, explained what happened and what Vines said and they laughed but were not surprised. I spoke with one of the co owners and he confirmed that a compression test would immediately confirm a coking issue, but he then told me something I did not know. As the manifold issue is a known problem so the manifold had a small dipstick/nipple at the top of the manifold expressly to check if the engine had a coking issue and was a simple 5 minute job, which Vines should have checked that immediately….. They did a quick diagnostics and confirm the actuator had failed or seized and that swirl flap 4 was non longer activating correctly. Best case scenario there is no coking and actuator has failed and therefor should be replaced under warranty or worst case a de-coke and new manifold would be needed…. They would like to have the car for half a day but would charge 2 hours labour maximum as it is a “simple job”.I was then asked if I wanted to see what they did for this job as they were about to start that exact process on a 2012 520d. I obviously said yes and they showed me the coked up manifold and cylinders. It became very clear to me my car was probably suffering the same problem. So booked it in for Thursday….. As the manifold is a sealed Item and made of plastic it is impossible to clean and is an expensive part at £600 +VAT and the de-coke would be £230 +VAT all in £1,015. Vines want £690 +VAT for the manifold but a whopping £708 +VAT for the de-coke plus labour charges…. So a huge saving but still financially ruinous when you were hoping to go on holiday! Suffice to say I much prefer dealing with people who have true product knowledge and not the local village idiots that Vines seem to employ as their service advisors (who clearly do not have any product knowledge at all). So I will no longer be take my car to Vines unless it is for a warranty item as they are far to expensive and frankly I simply don't trust them.. Cheers All RC
  2. Ifti007

    Lci tail lights recall?

    Hey all I've seen in some discussion about the recall for the tail lights on lci variants from 2007 onwards. Someone please shed more light in to this as I'm going to book me sweet ride in for bmw and want them to do the recall work. Pretty sure this is old news but since im a new owner please help out.
  3. Hi all, long time no post... Anyway, short story version. I went to look at an E61 530i Touring 6 Speed Manual 2007 LCI (269bhp) 110k miles 2 owners (mostly London commuting), plus a few extras from factory etc. Test driving and noticed a funny low end noise, I thought it was bottom end but later (after shooting the video) I realised that the knocking went away when the clutch was pressed in. That led me to Dual Mass flywheel issues but I don't know or what specific mechanisms are envolved or how they are malfunctioning (spring weights etc.). Most noticable heavy knocking on tickover and just after a little rev. Put the clutch in and it goes away. I thought the top end was a bit tappy, more than I would expect and I could detect the engine slightly rocking around. Is this normal for these tuned 530i LCI 2007 onward setups? Can any of you guys have a listen a see what you think, enlighten me? It goes well but this is the first 530i I've test driven. Booted it in 2nd n 3rd and noticed the performance below 3k RPM quite average, though I've never been that impressed with low end torque from BMW 6 cyl petrol engines. Up through 4k RPM and the magic starts to really happen, building nicely until I bail out at 6k RPM. Edit: Since found this useful informative video: Buying a used BMW 5 series E60, E61 - 2003-2010, Buying advice with Common Issues
  4. _Mark_

    Rear headlight help !

    Hi guys, hope your all well!!!! So I have an issue with my e60 525d. i have had a lci conversion in my pre lci e60 (both headlights and tail lights). when I had it done I got it coded so the strobes on the tail lights would be the brake lights ( ie they light up when the brake is pressed in the day , and at night are on dim and brighten up when the brake is pressed) the issue i have is that some of the strobes are starting to fade and I can’t find a “bulb” for them. is there a bulb for these I can change to make them brighter again? I’ve attached pics so you can see what I mean ( the bottom strobes are fine but the ones along the top are really dim!) any help would be appreciated!
  5. Hi all, I wanted to share with you my experience of fitting LCI rear lights on to my Pre-LCI E60. Just to be clear, I had considered the following before successfully carrying this out: 1) I didn't want the expense of buying Bruce Miranda cables 2) I wanted to utilise the Ricky brake effect 3) I didn't want the hassle of running extra wires from the LM2 4) I wanted to utilise the official BMW retrofit cables 5) I didn't want to change my adaptive bi-xenons, I intended to keep the Pre-LCI ones 6) I wanted to the leave the factory wiring in the car untouched Firstly, I retrofitted the LM2 light module to my 56 plate E60. There are plenty of guides discussing this, so I will assume you already have the LM2 light module retrofitted or fitted as standard (from the later Pre-LCI models) as this is not possible with the LM1. I had to purchase the LM2 with adaptive functionality but this coding can be done with any LM2. I got the LM2 for £85 off eBay, the ones without AHL can picked up for a between £40 and £60. There is a little bit of pin swapping required on the harness bought from BMW. The part number for the Retrofit harness is 61120432110. I ordered it from BMW directly and it cost £25+VAT. I managed to pick up some LCI rear lights off eBay for £130 delivered also. OK let me discuss the coding first as this will make more sense when I discuss the pin swapping on the retrofit harness. This assumes you are familiar with NCSEXPERT also, again there are plenty of guides on this. In the LM2, you need to change: KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv all of the above are in relation to the LED indicators and this tells the LM2 to not carry out cold or warm bulb checks and not report any check control messages in due course. Lastly, you need to change: PWM_ANSTEURUNG_BL from wert_05 to wert_02 and wert_04 This disables the brake light being used as a side light (I will explain this shortly). Essentially it changes the voltage output from 6.598v to 0v PWM_ANSTEUERUNG_RL_33 from wert_05 to wert_04 This increases the tail light voltage from the default 6.598v to 100% (around 13.8v) PWM_AN_NSL_SL from wert_02 and wert_03 to wert_01 This disables the fog light from being used as a side light by reducing the voltage from the default 4.699v to 0v We have to disable the fog light and brake light as side lights as we have increased the voltage on the side light to 100% therefore you wouldn't be able to tell when pressing the brake or putting the rear fogs on as the brightness wouldn't change. The bulb checks on the Pre-LCI as standard for the inner side lights are turned off by default so we don't need to edit the coding on these. The plan is to use the increased side light voltage to power the LED rods to match the OEM LCI lights brightness. The brake light will be utilised in the fog assembly and the fog light will be placed where the brake light was before (the outer light). The inner side light will no longer be powered as that is what we are using. This gives us the Ricky brake effect. In order to achieve this the following pins need to be swapped on the retrofit harness: Left hand side rear light Pin 1 = ground - OK Pin 2 = fog light - move to Pin 6 brake light Pin 3 = Reverse - OK Pin 4 = Side Light - OK (when you get the harness, this linked to Pin 7 on the LCI connector, this need to be moved on the LCI connector side to Pin 4 (LED rods) as we are no longer using the side bulbs Pin 5 = Indicator - OK Pin 6 = brake light - move to Pin 2 Right hand side rear light Exactly the same as above but Pin 4 needs to be moved from Pin 7 on the LCI connector to Pin 2 on the LCI connector side (LED rods) And that's it!! Plug your lights in with 0 errors and give yourself a pat on the back as you have saved yourself £200+ on buying Bruce Miranda cables and you have a working solution with no need for resisters or relays etc. It took me a few attempts to get the coding right but hopefully this will help a few people who are interested in this upgrade. If you have welcome lights coded as well these will light up the LED rods now as well instead of the halogen lights which look a lot smarter. Plus remember: When you sell the vehicle you can code it back to defaults and just plug the old lights back in too! I will upload some pictures at the weekend of my wiring etc. With a before and after. Thanks Jamie
  6. amigaholic

    E60 LCI - Headlight upgrades

    Hello all, I've recently acquired my first BMW, a 2008 525i M-Sport. Awesome car, very happy with it in general. Being an LCI model, it has angel eye headlamps, but being of relatively low spec, it has halogen headlights, not xenon (the headlamps are not self-levelling, they have the adjuster wheel next to the headlight switch). The outer lights are dipped beams behind projector lenses, the inner lights are full beams with reflectors. I think the standard bulbs are a bit poor, so I'd like to upgrade them. I was looking for a sticky post that might answer my questions. I *was* about to spring for a HIDS4U Stealth kit (https://www.hids4u.co.uk/H7-HIDS4U-Stealth-35W-Xenon-HID-Conversion-Kit.html), but then I found that the UK MOT regulations are changing as of May 2018 to make it a guaranteed fail to have any HID kit fitted, regardless of beam pattern... My initial thoughts here were to find another E60 LCI that had been rear-ended in a scrapyard, and buy the headlamps - but it seems that even used parts appear to be hideously expensive also (the car is 10 years old this year, why are parts still so expensive?), *and* require coding, which I have no idea how to do. So, nope. Instead, I've been looking at LED headlight bulbs. I'm told that these should not fail the new MOT, and are easier to install than HIDs (wiring those up was something I was worrying about). But there's so much choice! Just to clarify - I'm talking about replacing the dipped beam bulbs with LEDs, not the high beams or fog lamps. I'm also looking at clean white light, nothing with too high a colour temperature (no blue/purple), and nothing retina-searing for oncoming drivers, if possible. I would also like to upgrade the angel eyes to make them look a bit brighter. I was surprised how dim they are by stock. I also find it slightly bizarre that every indicator on the car is an LED already, *except* for the fronts. Can someone with an LCI E60/E61 who has already gone through this lend a BMW newbie (me!) a hand? Cheers Graeme
  7. HandyAndy_UK

    EC Interior Mirror retrofit

    Achtung chaps und chappesses, My ongoing enjoyment of bringing my 2014 LCi ex-plod F11 to the level I want has reached the point of replacing the standard interior mirror with the EC (self-dimming) version as these bleeding locals will insist on sitting on your back bumper in their Q7s, etc. This is fine except over around 130kmh I like to concentrate more fully on the road ahead. Anywho... I have the mirror unit physically replaced, what I can't find however is a retrofit cable to power up the thing. They're available for the E series, but nothing for F with it's 10 pin socket. Anyone know of a suitable part number, or indeed done this themselves ?
  8. Nice E61 touring, quite local to me actually, I think I've probably seen it driving around in fact https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-525d-3-0-M-Sport-Touring-6-Speed-MANUAL/182917925168?hash=item2a96c20930:g:GWgAAOSwCQlZ8kUn Presumably quite rare being a sport with a manual gearbox?
  9. Hi guys I've owned a few 5 series (e39 530i Sport) and recently bought a 2013 730d M Sport (LCI). I had had a look at 7 series forums and they are not as active as in here, hence I'm being a traitor and looking to join here, go on..... let me in.....5 series....7 series, if you squint they look similar Anyway, I'm in Lanarkshire just outside Glasgow, recently started carefully coding the 7 series and I'm over the moon with the small differences it's made (Alarm beep on, Sports display, MPH display, ///M Start up etc) Cheers Charlie
  10. Is it possible to retrofit paddle shifting to a 2008 Lci Bmw 520d. Im having a hard time finding info. Some say it you habe to rewire to make it work, some say it cant be done. Info please.
  11. MrSweet1991

    BMW E60 530D/525D M Sport

    Hi All, Looking for a BMW E60 530D M Sport ideally around West Midlands but don't mind travelling. Let me know what you've got!
  12. Hi guys, So just had my front pads changed by a local garage, these were Mintex pads which he insisted are "Better than Brembo" so I went for them. Anyway the first day a got it back it was making a little humming noise as though the pads are touching the discs constantly. So took it back to him and told him, he said "They are just bedding in, if you only change the pads and not the disc it will take a few miles for it to adapt". So I kept driving it for a few days and the noise went away, however I still feel that one of the side is sticking, you can still hear a little bit of rubbing (being a 5 series 3L it's hard to notice when driving). Any you guys experienced this? What could be the fault? I called him again yesterday and told him that I need them checking over so will be going to him after work today but need to know what to look for as I have never changed the pads myself, could it be needing grease? Maybe something loose? Cheers
  13. Not much to say really but I only gone and placed an order and will get these fitted tonight I hope Can’t have an lci halogen upgrade and not have the ability to have bright angel eyes that emit during the day! I will have to upgrade my module to LM2 – I can now have welcome lights and will be able to see that ass light up Here’s a comparison of my current lights and on the right Andy’s car with Baus’s Angels. BIG difference! I will be 1 of 3 in the world to have these.
  14. AJ-E60

    H7 Bulb help!

    Hi guys, Sorry if I don't explain this too well, but I'll try and clarify where I can. I recently purchased some new LED bulbs for my high beam H7s (wanted to move from halogens). They are the CREE LED bulbs with a heat sink/fan at the end (you can probably see loads on eBay). An example of a similar bulb below; The problem is, I can't use the H7 metal bracket to clip the bulb in place. This is because these new bulbs have a huge fixed heat sink/fan at the end so I can't attach the metal clip from behind. The black H7 fitting ring unclips and slides out through the front for "easy fitting" but I can't slide the metal bracket from the front as the bulbs are thicker than what the bracket allows (see below) It seems as though even if I manage to get both back on the bulb, the fitting ring wont have the room to "clip" back on the bulb which won't fix my problem of a loose fit? Any advice? Anyone had experience fitting these bulbs and how they went about it? I've returned the set I bought as one bulb was faulty so before purchasing a new set, I thought I'd see if anyone has any input on the fitting? Thanks!
  15. Hi , As the title says i am looking for a BMW E60 saloon LCI leather interior. It needs to be heated , any colour apart from grey and it would be great if it would have door cards as well. I am located in Essex Thank you , Adrian
  16. Sandhar525d

    F10 LCI lights

    Hey guys I have a 2011 525d and I want to change my headlights to LCI model lights. Currents lights are with indicators and and are adaptive lights if that help. Will the LCI lights fit my car? And is it plug and play or will I need to buy something else with them?
  17. Hey, just had a question so wondered if anyone here could answer for me I've had an LCI 525d M Sport (Manual) for almost a year now, love it! But I figured it's about time. Time to give her a remap for her birthday present. But I'm in a dilemma.. I've been reading about a DPF gut and EGR delete on many of these forums to go alongside the remap for obvious benefits such as no clog worries and bhp gains. I do know it may come with a bit of extra smoke but the efficiency and power gains will offset this in my eyes so I can potentially live with the smoke. However there's one thing putting me off.. 1 - I know if it's a gut, it won't really be detectable in an MOT so that won't be a bother. But what if you need to sell the car in the future? Has anyone experienced any problems in removing the DPF and trying to sell the car thereafter? Especially since you're doing a permanent (I think?) illegal move in removing the dpf? Wouldn't really want to fork out £1200+ installing a DPF to sell the car.. PS. What are the pro/cons of doing a remap without the DPF gut & EGR delete? Thanks!
  18. So lets cut to the chase, couple months back i went to avon tuning and gutted my dpf and got the egr delete and remap. But only now i have decided that i want to liven the car up in terms of noise. I wanted to give the car to an audible prescence lol. So i decided to resort to a downpipe, now i hope not to spend silly money on a downpipe but keep the cost minimal..can somone reccomend me a downpipe other than the ecotune downpipe??? I have the m57n2 engine aswell Will appreciate it alot
  19. Hi, I'm new to this forum. I've recently purchased a BMW e60 525d m sport lci (2008). On the weekend me and my brother did a engine flush and service. Car started to run much smoother but soon the EML came on. The iDrive displayed an 'increased emissions' error but the car was driving fine. The next day however the car went into a limp mode and wouldn't pick up speed like normal. Took it to a local garage and the mechanic noticed that the MAF sensor was slightly loose. He cleaned this and put it back into position. The EML has disappeared and the car drives better but still does not feel like it used to. Before i could put my foot down and the response was instant and you could feel the torque but now it feels like it doesn't want me to push on the accelerator. I suspect it could be an issue with the EGR or the DPF filter but wanted some advice from you guys. What do you guys suggest i have checked or do? Thanks guys
  20. I'm struggling to fit the e60 lci angels lights on to my projector headlights. Anyone out there to help around the London area, will pay ofcourse. I don't have the tools or time to attempt it myself unfortunately.
  21. Hello all I have been following the forum for 5series owners for some time, but couple weeks back I just got my new 57 plate bmw e60 525d lci m-sport . LOVING IT lol. Though I did have a 525d e60 m-sport prior to buying the lci e60. Piks will be posted and have done some mods so far.
  22. Hi guys I plugged in my cable I bought from BMTechnics and run INPA on it to see if I can find any error codes on my car. Below are the screenshots I managed to get, will anyone be kind enought to explain any or all of this to me please This is message I got when I Read Error Memory on Engine This is when ECU Information Memory was read (to be honest I do not know the differant between the 1st one [Read Error Memory] and 2nd one [Read Information Memory] In INPA I selected the first option, which reads something like "Functional Jobs" and then selected Identification I got these when I was reading Error Memory when I had selected "Functional Jobs" Sorry my knowledge on INPA is very minimal so have no idea what half the stuff means, but thought I would ask you guys. Thanks for your help
  23. Last week I bought a 2007 BMW 530iA Touring (LCI). A wonderful car, but I'm having trouble pairing my iPhone 4 with it. The car can't find my phone and my phone can't find the car. Just to clarify: I don't even get to the point where the pin code should be entered. The car is equipped with: S644A Preparation f mobile phone w Bluetooth S609A Navigation system Professional S676A HiFi speaker system Bluetooth version 9226711 (compatible with iPhone 4) It's NOT equipped with: S6FLA USB/Audio interface S620A Voice control I have tried a lot of suggestions found in different forums: - Removing all previously paired phones from iDrive (there were none). - Removing all bluetooth devices from my phone. - Turning off Wifi in my phone. - Resetting the network settings in my phone. - Leaving the Bluetooth search in car and phone active for a couple of minutes (~12 minutes actually). - Trying to pair with my wifes Sony-Ericsson X10 mini (also supported by the 9226711 version). It finds my iPhone but not the car, and the car finds nothing. - Deactivating and then reactivating Bluetooth in iDrive. - Disconnecting the MULF2 module overnight, driving 2x20 minutes with it disconnected and then reconnecting. I have now found out that the previous owner also had problems with Bluetooth. He had the car at the dealer and they suggested to exchange the MULF2 module, but I don't know how much they actually troubleshooted the problem. I did manage to get a screenshot from BMW displaying the MULF2 data: https://www.dropbox.com/s/h2fjo44qd0gv6ig/bluetooth.png Before shelling out the money for a new MULF2 module, I would really like to be more certain that it will solve the problem. When disconnecting the optical MOST bus from the module, I can see red light flashing at both ends (both at the module and in the disconnected cable). With the module disconnected, Bluetooth is deactivated in iDrive and I can't check the checkbox. When connected, I can deactivate and reactivate Bluetooth in iDrive. From what I've read, a toasted module won't give red flashes in the MOST connector and it's not possible to check the Bluetooth checkbox in iDrive. Of course, my module might be just slightly toasted so it still seems to work when looking at the iDrive menu. But on the other hand, I guess there could be other faults as well, for example a bad Bluetooth aerial? Is there anything I can do to pinpoint where the fault is located?
  24. Hi im wondering if anyone can help me with this problem I am having - I recently upgraded my headlights to H7 HID kit on my 520d Msport Lci Step Auto - everything was going fine but then I noticed when I switch the HID lights on I get a little jerk in my car. It does not happen all the time, just on the odd occasion. If I am driving in Manual mode, it either automatically drops my gear down or if i am slowing down/standstill in traffic and I switch the light on I get the jerk and it changes the gear to DS Or if i am driving in D the little orange light on the gearbox goes out for a split second and lights back up, also this results in my gear to drop down automatically (only notice it as my revs increase). Its a bit hard to explain so sorry if i have confused you all - its like whenever it happens its like theres an extra volt that goes through the car to initially power up the H7 bulbs and thats what is causing the issue - but i may be wrong. I know bulbs have nothing to do with the auto gearbox, but as that auto gearbox also gets some sort of power supply from the battery, thought this may all be interlinked. Any one experienced this before? Or any advice on what i can do? I really like the HID upgrade I have got and do not want to get rid just coz of this jerk issue I am having. Also dont know if the problem is interlinked, I have 10w CREE LED AE bulbs in which flicker when the car is initially started and I have also got white LED number plate bulbs with a built in resistor (these have never flickered though when the car is started or AE or H7 bulbs are switched on)
  25. Hi guys - I am new to the BM family. I bought my first 5 series lci msport auto going back a few weeks ago and first thing I done was upgrade the Angel Eyes to 10W White LED bulbs, these have worked fine for last 2 week or so, but only last night I noticed when I started up the car one of the bulbs was flickering, I then switched the angel eyes on using the light switch and this stopped and they worked fine - any one else know why this may have happened? Also upgraded light to H7 Canbus free HID kit as the lights in my car have the projecter lense, and i noticed that when switched on it changed my auto gear from D to DS - this has only happened once however - maybe its me going crazy - any one else had any of these issues at all?
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