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Found 180 results

  1. Irish535d

    How to register battery?

    Hi, Installed a new 90 Ah battery today in the 2006 E60 535 diesel. Took a while to figure out the right amperage so I wouldn't have to code the battery to the car (old battery was a Varta 80 Ah and wasn't sure it was right. Went on to Real OEM and it seemed the only correct listing for a non-AGM battery was local motor factor brand (Prestige) 90 Ah. What is coding the battery to the car all about? Why do you have to register the battery to the car? - never had to do this before. How do you register the battery to the car? I found the following instructions for ISTA: Service functions/ body/ voltage supply/ register battery replacement/ test plan. I tried doing something on iDrive but couldn't get anywhere. Do I have to register the battery to the car? Car drives fine - took it for a 325 minute drive to check it out. Still have the SOS and PDC warnings tho. But the yellow car on a ramp warning symbol is gone (what is that?) Thanks, Nick
  2. Hi All, 2006 E60 535d - My internal boot release button is not working. Was working, now stopped. On inspection the boot loom looks like this. Someone's been in there - yellow wire come adrift from connector, and there is 2 other wires unidentified - kind of grey with yellow stripe. On looking at it it seems like someone's added some 6 core wire of different colours. Has anyone a wiring diagram or know what colours in the boot loom do what please? Thanks, Nick
  3. Hi All, I need to replace my left rear shock it's leaking - so I guess the other one also. Car is a 2006 E60 535d MSport auto so I guess I need to get the right ones for that model (and they're bound to be pricey ) It also looks like it has a round cylinder at the bottom of the shock that is as long as it it round (kind of a square cylinder?). It's behind the rear disc in the photos here so unfortunately you can't see it. What would people recommend - I read Sachs in posts and see them all over ebay. Best vendors that would post to Ireland? Thanks Nick
  4. Hi All, Time to do an oil change - and probably trans fluid also. 2006 E60 535d with 120,000 miles. What engine oil and filters do people recommend please? Any better suppliers? And transmission fluid and filter recommendations? Is it easy to change the trans filer on these. On my old cars I just dropped the trans pan and pushed on a new filter. I understand you have to suck the trans fluid out on these? And what diff oil would all recommend please? Thanks, Nick
  5. Hi all, Had to replace the battery today. Bought the car in April. Has consistent SOS call failure and PDC warnings since I bought it - Doesn't worry me since I know how to reverse a car! But have been getting the occasional left rear number plate light failure warning - it works but PO replaced them with LEDs. Also boot button doesn't work because the yelllow (?) wire in the boot loom is severed (separate topic) Battery died a month ago after 2 days sitting in the sun and had to be jumped. Battery died last night after being sat since Saturday evening (2 days) in the rain - so I put it on a charge using the under bonnet connectors. It didn't take anything in the end after the initial boot up. Battery is/ was a Varta G3 80Ah. P/N 595 402 080. Battery compartment, fuse panel and boot was bone dry. No sign of corrosion, dampness - looks brand new. My indie was doing his books today so couldn't run a diagnostic so just advised me to buy a new battery - which I did - a 90Ah one. Fitted it and car runs fine. Perkier too. Questions: What would cause a battery to go dead? Would the SOS and PDC message cause it? Would the bulb failure light cause it? I don't often lock it because the remote key is a bit dodgy - has a short range - would not being locked cause a drain? / keep some circuits on and running? Can my indie find out if there is a current leak/ slow parasitic drain? Thanks, Nick
  6. Msportseries5

    Puddle lights stopped working

    Hello, Just hoping to get some help please I have a 2008 series 5, Yesterday I went to do ambient lighting, did one door trim at a time, started at left rear, then right rear trims then drivers door. Each time I disconnect the battery, rears I had no issues at all but when I cut the puddle lights (the ones under the door trim) the front two lights stopped working All the other lights are working apart from the driver and passenger side, all the fuses glove box and in boot are all working. Any help would be great as it's driving me nuts Thanks
  7. Hi guys, Haven’t seen many many of these kicking around so let me know what you guys think! Ill be uploading all my to-do list and updates on ramp time so far but I don’t do things by the book, as such. First BMW after moving from TypeR’s, just wanted a cruiser that makes me look like a drug dealer really
  8. Horsey

    BMW Documentation

    Hi all, Over the years I have managed to accumulate various pieces of BMW documentation from an assortment of sites and sources. I thought it time to place them all in one location where everyone can access them. They are available from my Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxDd4Jzlov8Efmg5VVVEaTZVYkplN3MzaGZLQUEzaWFjU0luMl81cW9oSGxlOENGbTlKQW8&usp=sharing The folder currently contains the following: E60 engineer training modules; M Division documentation; Various E60 manuals and guides, and an assortment of BMW presentations. As I find more I will upload them to the Drive and update this post. Mods - Bearing this in mind, perhaps it would be handy to make this pinned? Best, Horsey *Please note I do not own the documents or claim to be the author of them*
  9. Hi. My M54 is actually in an E46 330i 2003 but I'm really struggling for info... I think the crankshaft pulley / vibration damper has failed or is at least on ots way out. It has a fairly bad wobble on it at idle as i hope you can see on the video - or is this normal? Symptoms are heavy vibs through steering wheel seat and floor and will usually go away after restarting or a speed bump! I've removed AC belt and Viscous fan and 25 miles or so without it happening again. I would have had a new one on there by now if it wasn't for a) a lack of info on the net for the job and b) the holding bolt being at 400Nm scary! Only found one write up and he had engine out and made 2m scaffolding to undo it. Then there's locking the crank... Any good advice? 90k 330i that had beem poorly servuced and maintained prior to me. Had just gased the AC up 2 days before (hadn't worked since i got it) and thinking this extra new load has been the straw that broke the proverbial. Both times the vibs have started its been when steering fairly hard (junctions) which lead me to think PAS pump but then I saw the wobble. PAS pump had 1-2mm end float. All other pulleys tensioners idlers etc feel OK. 20190730_154541.mp4
  10. Paj

    Paj's E60 525d SE Project

    Hi Well I thought I'd bore you to death with my E60 project. I've had a few Mini's and BMW's over the years which have all been great cars and I probably sold them too soon. I was looking for a 6 cylinder E60, ideally as new as possible but on my tight budget of £3-3.5k. Unfortunately the newer cars were either rough or had something wrong with them and then in early November 2018 I found this...... It is a much loved and well spec'd 06/06 525d SE manual pre LCI. It had a new MOT and 108k on the clock. It also had full BMW history up to 99k including new front brakes and the seller then threw in an oil change service and 6 months Platinum warranty. Main spec upgrades are full electric heated leather seats, elec steering wheel, Dynamic Xenon's and voice controlled Pro Nav. All this for £3.6k. I had to wait a week before I could pick it up from near Crawley. That was the longest week ever!!!!! The drive home was so smooth and I was already starting to plan what I would do to her. I've just got to remember I'm on a tight budget..... I've decided to keep things subtle and any changes will be bolt on, bolt off. This is so I can take any mods onto the next E60. So what have I been doing over the winter months? Mainly getting her mechanically sound and buying the parts ready to add, so here goes. Week 1 was lighting, I would say a nice and easy start but changing angle eye lamps is a right palaver. I also added silver indicators lamps to the rear and side repeaters. I've got new front fogs but still haven't fitted them. As Christmas Eve was a pleasant day (and our Turkey was cooking in the oven) I decided to give mine and my son's car a wash. This is when I discovered my scuttle drains were slightly blocked but worse than that, the tiny drain holes in the rear door were totally blocked. This caused water to run from behind the door card and into the rear foot well. I now check the tiny holes in all the doors!!! I've also found water in the boot, This was due to the boot vent rubber curling up and allowing spray through. This has been cured by warming the rubber flap and "ironing" it flat. In the New Year I found these MV2's for sale in Wells, Somerset. I met a top bloke called Darren and bought them sharpish. They are in great condition and 1 alloy is almost new with decent tyres too. Darren now has 19" Spiders adorning his gorgeous 525d MSport. Here are some before and after pic's, as you can see the back axle is crying out for some spacers.....more of that later. Once the wheels were fitted I had a 4 wheel alignment. I decided this as I had a slight wobble at 70mph and the steering wheel was off centre. She now drives straight and smooth, below is the final print out. It was almost all red before they started adjusting. A massive thanks to Autotechnic's Blandford for the mechanical support!!!! I've always been a fan of car audio. I even competed in the IASCA Sound Off's during the late 90's. My Cavalier and I did quite well and travelled the UK (from Belfast to Brighton) taking on some awesome installs in the Point Of Reference category. I finally made the UK finals at Wembley. Here are some old photos. Anyway, my E60 needed some improved sounds and by chance I saw an ad on this Forum. "Lildonut" (AKA Stu) was selling a new pair of Earthquake SWS-8's. Also he was kind enough to met me halfway and we had a great chat about all things 5, during which I said "I'm after spacers for the back axle." well I couldn't believe it but Stu had 3 12mm spacers that I could have. So I fitted the spacers as soon as possible and here are some before and afters. When I lowered the jacks the suspension looked a bit high but it has now settled to the correct height. With the improving weather I've been able to get on with my ICE install this weekend. Once the battery was disconnected and seats removed I was able to get on with running cables and install the under seat subs. The sound from these earthquakes is amazing and they will only get better as they "bed in" and I set up the sound stage. As I have the Pro Nav CCC iDrive I decided to take the sound from the old sub speaker cables. I then fed this high level signal into a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty Line Driver. This then converts it to a line level RCA output but with lots of oomph. I have located it under the passenger seat so the high level inputs are as short as possible. The Rocky Fosgate then sends a lovely clean signal to my DLS 4 channel amplifier. The DLS is a very adjustable, flexible and powerful amp. (For info - I have piggybacked the remote power line to fuse 66 in the boot. This turns the ICE equipment off about 30-40 minutes after turning the car off. The amp location and wiring termination is temporary until I finalise my system design) The amp drives the Earthquarke Subs and a set of 10cm Vibe Components. These were easy to fit once I'd modified the (Ebay supplied) adaptor plates. I needed to machine the 3 holes slightly and cut a lug so they fitted flush. End of Part 1
  11. Hello there, 2005/3 E60 535d Msport automatic in Carbon Black. I always wanted to do a Project thread regarding a BM. I've seen a quite a lot of ''Project threads'' here and elsewhere mostly without any pictures or in-depth explanations or just a dead end threads. Hopefully, this should become one.... So then... I got this beauty advertised on Gumtree as a high mileage one(192k miles on it at the time of purchase), so it was a cheap one, just 3.5k. Since I am not afraid of a high mileage cars I opted for this one instead of 2008 E60 530d LCi. The guy that I bought it from used it mostly to get to work in Dublin and Belfast and since he is living near Newry, he did a quite a lot of motorway miles. Just to make sense why I chose this instead of LCi was most of the distances he traveled. Just to make sense of it: If I had a choice to buy a lower spec car from somebody out in a country and a car, that has mostly been used at the town/city with higher spec gadgets and gizmos I would choose the one that is at the countryside every time. Why? because of: 1. It's a diesel! It is supposed to be used on longer journeys to be more economical than the same capacity petrol engine. Since I do a lot of miles myself this is why I went for it. 2. It's a diesel! It clogs up if you drive like a granny on Sundays after a church mess on your way to see the relatives/friends while doing 20-30 mph and an A-class roads where the max speed limit is 60.... Since this doesn't apply to me as I am on a motorway for a most of the miles to get to work, I don't have a problem with it. Diesel needs to be driven harsh once in a while to burn off the soot and other deposits from inlet manifold and surrounding areas. If you're doing less than 8k miles a year, diesel is not for you! 3. It keeps me busy. I wouldn't know what to do If I would buy a brand new car. Changing oil is easy, but I am looking for a challenge so a new car is a no-no for me... I like to get my hands dirty once in a while and the feeling after ou get when you fix something yourself.... Those who know what I am talking about, they will understand. 4. I can fix stuff, I can change it if it needs to be changed and I am not too sure how to do it there is that wonderful thing called ''Google'', but it needs to be master as well as not everything you see or read on there is true.... 5. I always wanted a Black BM with beige leather seats! 6. A bit more about myself at the ''Hello, I am new here'' section So there it goes, a bit of intro with a story and pictures and then straight into the stuff I have done so far. At first, it looked black on the advert, but whenever I went to see it for the first time it was actually a Carbon Black. Whit a lovely beige interior, a perfect combination in my opinion. When it's dirty or depending on sunlight conditions, it looks blue-ish or gray-ish.. (camera doesn't reflect the real color) At the Terraclean Co Down Since there is a character limit per post(but it is not displayed) I will continue in next post.
  12. MStyle


    Hi all, We've got some fantastic special offers on the following products for a limited time only. Check out the below. Prices are valid until the 30th March 2019 and include free delivery to mainland UK. We also offer a painting and fitting service at our large workshop in Romford, Essex. If you would like to redeem an offer, call us on 0208 598 5119 and mention the forum. Happy motoring! MStyle Team E60 E61 Twin Slat Gloss Black Grilles WAS £49 NOW £29 E60 E61 M Sport/M5 Look Side Skirts WAS £186 NOW £99 E60 E61 M5 Look Front Bumper WAS £239.40 NOW £169
  13. So for the past month I have the BONG! Going off saying the right side number plate light is not working so last night I thought I’d investigate. Firstly I noticed when the boot lid was moved up and down the interior boot light flickered as well as the right number plate light. So..took all the right hand side interior out to get the wiring loom and the pulled out the l shaped rubber that holds the wiring loom it then runs through the hollow boot support tube, when I moved the wiring loom it flickered on and off. Here’s what I found after removing the insulation (this pic was nicked off a another site as didn’t have my phone with me but was exactly the same) Obviously there’s movement on the joint, but I would of thought a better design would have been made by bmw with a floating wire harness or something?? This is a stress point that is used every day. Now I know there’s not much current going through, BUT seriously seeing cracked insulation and bare wires was a bit worrying as could start a potential fire/shorting later on down the line with bare wire on wire touching. Apparently this is a common fault on 5,3 Saloons. I repaired 2 clean breaks (after moving around and removing insulation) with mini JB for the time being but will solder it at a later stage, also I had to re-insulate another 5 wires that were damaged cracking and showing bare wire about to start touching one another! So if I was you I’d pull out your loom and have a look and repair or protect if necessary just be on the safe side and stop any nasty accidents occurring.Stay safe. Gib
  14. Help ! I am ready for pulling my hair I have got left out. Air con not working and fault code 41f2 electric fan activation. Had a new a/c pump plus gassed still not clicking in, cooling fan not running on slow speed! Tried another fan still no joy ??? What else can it be to stop me chilling in my car
  15. Bigalamo

    Cannot figure out issue

    Hello, I have a manual 2007 e60 525d msport. I have had the car since August 2018 and no issues were present until this past week. In the morning I tried to start it up and the starter just kept clicking and clicking. I called out roadside assistance to come give me a jump with some leads and it started right up. They carried out an alternator and battery test. Alternator tested completely good, but the battery was pushing out half the cranking amps. I went and purchased a new battery and it started right up. The next day it started up as normal.. then I am on the motorway and the engine cuts off randomly while at 70mph and shows three faults on iDrive: -DBC Failure! Drive Moderately -Drive control system! Drive Moderately -Start Assistance inactive! I pull over and push the start button and it starts right up. The faults still displayed in control messages at the time. I make it to my destination in a parking garage and go about my day. I return 3 hours later and the starter keeps clicking and clicking but no start. I get a jump from a local and still does not start. Tried about 4 times. I call for roadside assistance and wait over an hour and try again, starts right up. I leave the car park and pull up next to the roadside assistance van and the engine cuts out yet again but cannot get it to start. iDrive shows the “Very Low Battery Charge!”, but when tested it showed full charge... They send out recovery and tow my car to my home. Now this morning I go out and the car starts right up with no faults, but does cut off after 7 minutes of idle continuously with an exclamation point displayed on mileage window, but I am able to start over and over with no issues. Sorry for lengthy post, but it shows all the details. Any idea of issue? All connections are tight on clamps of terminal of battery and assistance said charging system is healthy.
  16. Hello there new to this so all help is appreciated please i have a bmw e60 2005 525i and on the lights both take normal 501 bulbs but have built in angel eye rings so the 501 powers the angel eye ring what im confused about is that only side of either light is lighting up not both i have changed the 501s on both lights but only one ring lights up on both of the lights which i find weird as i have seen both rings on different cars.
  17. Hello fellow members, Just wanted to say I love this forum and I quite enjoy browsing through photos posted by members here, so I decided I post some. I will soon post about the mods I did to my latest F07 purchase. See the collage I did for cars I owned since 2008... Have fun. Mo
  18. bullawayo

    Stage 2 E60 530D

    Hi Gents, I'm Matt, an automotive and systems engineer from Hampshire. I'm also an admin on E60/E61 Owners Club UK's facebook page. Been browsing for a while so thought I would post some pics of the current beater, my 530d. This is slightly disjointed but i'm not very good at documenting/taking photos as I do stuff - hopefully I will be better now! So, I bought a 530d SE on a 53 plate 2 years ago. FBMWSH and 90k, for the mighty sum of 4k. I do about 30k a year so needed something that would eat up the miles whilst still being a bit fun. Originally I planned on keeping this standard and having a toy seperately, but the more I drove this thing the more I fell in love with it. Bought it, got it home. Gave it a clean, chucked some spare wheels on as the 16s weren't cutting it The following day took it to my mates just over the Welsh border for a remap and so I could sort my swirl flaps out. Had pre-ordered the kit as I knew I wanted this model So swirl flaps deleted, EGR blanked, remap done. No DPF as pre-dpf. Instantly 100% better to drive!! Wheels were awful, 2 had cracked. Got rid and got some (similar) Japanese lightweight equivalents. BMW wheels are the worst for cracking. New wheel specs 19x8.5 and 19x.9.5 - 20mm front spacers 10mm rear. Chucked the wheels on, replaced the crank pulley as it was shot. Bought some prosport coilovers, used them before. Always been the best out of the "cheap" units available. Chucked them on The wheel colour wasn't doing it for me, gave them to my mate who powdercoated them. Colour is his own blend of hyper silver. Looking sorry for herself on the original wheels got the tyres on... Better! Painted the brake calipers, cleaned them up and regreased all 4: then just drove it for a while and did some maintenance bits (new brakes & fluid, full service etc)..I go all over the place with work! Some random pics... A guy I know came out and mopped the whole car. Did a sterling job - paintwork is suprisingly good! Missus drove the car once and scuffed the bumper....had it sorted by another friend Then I lost a load of recent photos.... I've since had all the window trims off and used BMW shadowline tape to black them out. Next step is hybrid turbo as mine is slowly dying. I also want to tint the windows and might end up throwing some money at it (new bumpers/wheels etc). Some of my previous cars:
  19. Hi all, Ever since @GoNz0 mentioned his too frequent DPF regens I've been monitoring mine and I've found pretty much the same thing. I've been using Torque to observe a few different readings while driving for the past few months to try get a better feel for what's going on. Pretty much every time I use the car I'm looking at the live data. First off, some facts about my car: Auto gearbox Mileage: ~127000miles/205000km DPF life remaining ~35000km Ash mass: 68.8g (90g is considered full I believe) Recurring faults: Glow plugs 1 & 2, ( I changed all 4, fault remains, assume it's controller). DPF near end of life. Back pressure readings are good: One small discrepancy I've found is my back pressure and charge pressure readings are about 22-24 mbar too high, compared to atmospheric which is within tolerance but I'd be happier if they were closer to each other. This test is done with engine off and all three values should be similar: At this sort of mileage on the DPF there are probably adaptations to trigger automatic regens at shorter intervals but I reckon I'm getting them before that kicks in. Soot mass is observed going from 0g to 43g and then triggers a regen, where it generally falls back to 0g before completing. Soot mass hitting 43g is what triggers my too frequent regens but it's the manner in which it gets to 43g that is interesting (and a mystery to me). I observe soot mass increasing in two different ways. What I've started to call stable and volatile modes. Stable Mode In Stable mode soot mass increases steadily by 0.1g every couple of kilometers or so ( I've not measured it exactly) but my 46km commute sometimes adds about 2.3g give or take a bit. I don't think I've ever observed the car staying in stable mode from 0 to 43g which would give me about 860km between regens. At some random stage it always goes into the nasty volatile mode. Volatile mode In Volatile mode the soot mass increases very fast. For example: I could be on my commute with soot mass at 10g when I notice it shooting up. Back pressure does not seem out of normal range. I continue my commute and arrive at work with the soot mass at 30g. I switch off the engine and the soot mass drops immediately to 10.5g (exactly what I would expect if it had stayed in stable mode). So I consider the 30g reading to be a false high reading. I have experimented with this: restarting the engine at this point brings it back up to 30g instantly, turn off again, back to 10.5g. I assume the car needs to go to sleep for this 10.5g to be "saved" as I've also tried getting out and locking then unlocking and restarting and it goes back to 30g. I go in to work and return later and it's still at 10.5g and back in stable mode on my commute home (or maybe not, as the random case may be). So it could potentially do a regen, drop to 0g, regen completes, then soot mass shoots back up to 43g over next 10km and triggers another regen, although I have not observed this extreme case yet as I've never done a long enough journey. The other unusual thing is during volatile mode, if I switch the gearbox to manual mode, drop a gear or two, and rev the hell out of it the soot mass can stabilise or even start to come back down a bit. Over 3000rpm usually works. Obviously this is experimentation and not a fix but sometimes I tried this if close to my destination and the false high soot mass was close to 43g in order to prevent a regen. This is a battle I always eventually lose. The best interval between regens I've observed was about 400km and the worst was 40km. Volatile mode seemingly starts at random and I would love to know what causes it, so if anyone can shed some light on it, please please please do! 1. Does anyone know of a way to calibrate the pressure sensors or change it's offset? I've come across a german site discussing it using Tool32 but with google translate it's beyond me and I've not used Tool32 before. 2. Would updating modules be of any benefit? Is this a diy job? Keliuss
  20. MStyle

    E60 Makeover

    Hi all, We've had an E60 535d in for some performance and styling mods so thought we would share -ECU Software Update -Remap - 363hp/553ftlbs -Sprint Booster V3 -Carbon Fibre Quad Diffuser -Custom Quad Exhaust Conversion Check out the before and afters
  21. e60530dirl

    E60 530D Owner Ireland

    Hi Colm here in Dublin Ireland own a 2005 E60 530D Have had a few 5 series over the years and absolutely love them,this has been my first diesel variant. Cheers
  22. e60530dirl

    E60 530D issues

    I have a few issues with my e60 530d M Sport at present and I am hoping to resolve them so I am starting this thread and hopefully it can help people in the future once I have it resolved due to not finding a exact answer to my faults or threads across the internet leading that way and going unanswered bye the end ,hopefully it will be of benefit to somebody and I will learn some of the common faults and fixes etc. along the way. E60 530D 208 BHP model i.i.r.c. (early model anyway) car is unmapped all original with cat,egr and dpf. I was driving the car and it suddenly lost power as if it lost boost (turbo not working at all ,no smoke and happened in city driving at slow speeds , it may be limp mode) I have so far replaced the insides of the electronic actuator as that was the code I got when I checked the codes with INPA refitted it and it ran worse so we just disconnected it and left it alone for a few weeks and drove it with out it connected Also at the same time cleaned the DPF and EGR which were absolutely filthy We have now gone at the car again (Me and my Friend) and have done aqua cleaning of the inlet manifold swirl flap blank kit fitted and now can hear the turbo with a kind of slightly louder noise a whooo kind of noise but not really loud (but sounds like a split intercooler pipe to me but have seen on line its turbo blades) this may be the Turbo that is the problem but we are not replacing that yet and doing the other bits first Having taking everything apart to inspect the Turbo we have discovered that the seal on the intercooler to turbo pipe is shot and before we dissembled there is some oil at this point weeping / leaking from that join also noticed was some cracks in the manifold although it may not have been leaking yet we have fitted a ebay cast version on there now upon inspection of the Turbo it does not look oily or any play in the shaft I tried to be smart and bought a used turbo that was refurbed 1k miles ago of a breaker with out seeing it and it turns out the 2006 turbo and actuator are different so we are fitting my original turbo back on and hoping for the best again this may end up been the Turbo but we will see We are going to fit both thermostats tomorrow , and fuel filter also have cleaned out the DPF and CAT Clear codes and drive it and see what happens I have read online that keep clearing the codes over a certain amount of driving (we may do all this on the ramp) and then also force a dpf regen via software I own the car 2 years and have never replaced the thermostat so i think this is a issue The car doesn't seem to rev past 2.5k - 3k RPM ,im not sure if this is a limp mode the car has 115k miles on it and is in general good order and wasn't abused in its life the exhaust isnt very smokey either the exhaust was quiet hot on the pipes previously and the car inlet manifold and egr were extremely built up with carbon as was the DPF but I do short mileage generally so I assume that is the cause of that The breather has also been updated so it is not a gause issue MAF cleaned and tested etc. the current codes i seen after i reset the codes are (only reset once) dme/dde 4203 = glow unit error 4212 Glow Plug Cyl 1 - Activation Interrupted 4222 Glow Plug Cyl 2 - Activation Interrupted 4232 Glow Plug Cyl 3 - Activation Interrupted 4252 Glow Plug Cyl 5 - Activation Interrupted 4262 Glow Plug Cyl 6 - Activation Interrupted 480A DPF -Bank 1 4530- charge air pressure small turbo control deactivation I plan to replace the glow plugs soon also but im reading conflicting reports about whether dpf will regen with this fault or not battery went dead while working on it so not sure if some faults are from that either my biggest wonder is is the turbo gone or is it all the cause of a blocked dpf and although it has been cleaned is it because it is not doing a regen due to the thermostats so hopefully this will be answered over the next few days anyway sorry for the long winded post I will update when we get to the next part and see what we find. outside of that it has been extremely bulletproof except for mulf failing ,radio sound cutting in and out and cant connect to blue tooth were the symptoms to that (currently disconnected with a fibre optic loop attached until I decide what way to proceed) radio and cd player work again perfectly and MV2 wheels that are bent I assume due to run flats (I have purchased a fresher set to be fitted) water in area below battery (reason been to be found yet although I just heavily power washed the car so not entirely sure ) 2 parking sensors gone (not been done this time as want colour coded replacements) also have 2 front arms with a slight bit of play so we will replace them tomorrow air filter pollen filters oil and filter I plan to keep the car I have had e39 525i M Sport E34 525i 24V M sport E34 520i E34 520i Touring and a few 3 series trough the years 323i,320i,318i compact (all e36) I have had lots of other brands and cars but the 5 series has always been my favourite car and plan to keep this one as I always regretted any I sold on Cheers Colm
  23. RayLuca523

    Suspension kit

    Do 523i & 525i the suspension kit same? Year made 2005.
  24. Hi guys, looking for for some info or a good thread on small things with big return to look at an a 520d e60. Not huge like turbo or timing but things that make up a cars life if addressed, like ; thermostats, coolant pipes, seals, bushes, belts and pulleys. Really just a to do list that combined can help big time with the cars longevity. For instance regular oil change and back pressure can increase the life of a turbo....so change the oils and keep your DPF healthy and your turbo will more likely be sweeter for longer. My e60 seems like some random unicorn car that’s engine isn’t on any threads, or at least common ones. Haven’t checked the engine number but it’s a late 58 plate 520d facelift e60. so far it’s had; remap new dpf fill service tranny fluid disk and pads air intake all new lights on anything that lights up still to fit; glow plugs clutch and flywheel so any help would be great. I genuinely couldn’t be happier with the car at 100k. Sounds like a modern petrol, no smoke, no gear change issues and never lets me down. Thanks guys