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Found 210 results

  1. Hi guys, need some help from anyone. I've been trying to code my 2006 e60 530i with carly as I've just bought the vehicle new. The receiver doesn't get any power. I didn't have a diagram for the fuse box and searched online, found the fuses for the OBD (F29) I even tried F20 as I found a diagram that showed OBD is that. Looking forward to a response, Thanks
  2. Mark Wooder

    5 series CCC + CIC

    So I recently watched the BMW doctor compareing LCI and pre LCI. So the LCI 520d usual stuff, lights, home light options, extra features being buisness edition, but had CIC drive. So mine is 525d 2009 - def LCI as I have the correct lights + home feature on the lights too, but i have CCC drive?! I searched everywhere and cannot find answer to why i would have CCC being if i'm correct CIC was more updated? so why would a LCI 2008 model have cic drive and mine ccc. Would it be buisness edition on M sport came with cic drive and mine being just m sport would come with ccc ? Were cic and ccc being produced in cars at the same time or was cic the newer version overriding the ccc ?! little consued if anyone knows....
  3. Hello all. I am new this this forum family and thank you. Just need some support please. I was reading about software upgrading. Do you guys know anyone local (Midlands) to me who can do software updates on a E60 (06) My car has Bluetooth but does not work with music (just phone). I been thinking to install a aux lead but I know it also needs coding also? Confused what options are out there. Many Thanks!!
  4. Hello, very new to the forum and I am interested to know whether I’d be a complete moron for considering buying an E60 now (and plan on using it as a daily for the next 5 years+) when the youngest now is bordering on 12 years old? I have been driving a 2007 Audi A4 B7 Cabrio (1.8 Turbo) since 2014 which was passed along to me by my dad - nice car for a 19 year old student although somewhat anaemic and now I’m in my mid 20s I’m feeling it’s time for a change. It’s also safe to say it’s not had the best life having always being run on a shoestring (starting with my Dad) and is on its 3rd of 4th last leg now - I’m shocked and secretly disappointed it continues to pass MOTs. Rather than another anonymous looking and dull driving Audi on a bad financing deal, I was thinking about setting myself up with something in the £8-9k region that was stylish and punchy. Enter the E60 in 3 litre diesel guise (330D or 335D). Now I’m no fool and understand the era was a bit...off in terms of reliability; but I just wonder if I am a certified maniac for thinking I could pick one up in 2021 and plan to drive it for about 5 years. I would plan to take this for regular servicing and don’t do that much driving really (although I’m not exactly spoiled for choice with reasonably priced petrol options). I suppose my questions are: - is 100k+ just too many miles? - Would 8/9 grand buy me something fairly reliable? - would cost of maintenance ruin me? - is there any key things I need to avoid/be wary of? - Should I just bite the bullet and get a higher mileage and lower spec F10 (would end up being a 2L Diesel)? Any and all opinions welcome and thank you for taking the time to read!
  5. Hi all, After some urgent help here please if anyone is able to assist. So not long ago, I purchased an E60 530D LCI (2008). Car has been running fine for about 4000 miles until one day last month when it was quite a warm day and after a few hours of motorway driving, it suddenly felt like it had jolted and just turned off on me. By turned off, I mean that the accessory / ignition (idrive etc) continued to be on however the engine had in effect turned off and gone into neutral. A fuel pump fault was displayed and the car would just continue to crank and not start. After half an hour to an hour it started. Scanned the codes and it gave faults relating to the EKPS: 6292: EKP Motor: Voltage too low 6293: EKP Engine: Current too high Managed to get home all good no further faults once it had started again. Faults had also disappeared as I cleared them but never came back. A month later, the same thing happened. Thankfully on a residential road where I could just pull over safely. Half an hour later it was happy to restart, but couldn’t clear the faults until it was happy to start. I then looked at where the EKPS is located and felt it, it was in my opinion, far hotter than it should be. So I purchased one from a local breaker from a like to like model (2009 – 235bhp 530D). With the EKPS unit that I just bought, it still gets hot, hotter than a friends E60 530D after a similar amount of time driving, so I’m kind of at a loss. I know the EKPS is what controls the fuel pump, could a faulty fuel pump be drawing too much current in order to cause the EKPS to heat up and shut off? Either way, tomorrow or Wednesday I am getting a new fuel pump fitted but will be a genuine bmw part as its been ordered. I should add, the following day of it happening the first time I gave the car a full service inc a fuel filter just incase that was the cause but obviously not! Driving around locally, the car is happy to drive and feels absolutely perfect. Even if I was to take it on an hour journey to the motorway from Cov to Northampton and back etc, but the EKPS does get hot. Both times it has happened, from memory it has just been over a quarter tank. Can anyone shed some help with this please? Just lost confidence in the car and a really disheartening issue to have. Thanks in advance, RS.
  6. Mark Wooder

    V5 engine size...

    All, I have a 2009 BMW 525 (badged!) has anyone come across this issue before... So V5 states engine 2993 CC, Make model 525D on V5 !? MOT also states BMW 525. So I emailed BMW Homologation department to verify the engine size and they sent me a CARDO-prod-PWK-ManuellesCoC.'engine number'.pdf file... This is the ES Certificate of Conformity of the techincal details of your vehcile. So this states, BMW, model 560L, lots of other information, engine size again 2993 which matches the V5 etc. Then the document show's the signature by BMW for this certificate back in nov 2008. So I'm confused is my car in fact a 530 and not a 525 ?! As with all documents it should really show 2497 ? and not 2993 !? Also the certificate don't mention 525 or 530 just 560L... Help, anyone had this? Regards
  7. Hello i am new to this forum hopefully i only get to make friends here, my issue is very strange in regards with my car. What i have changed: Alternator,Battery, battery related cables everything has been changed and now the symptoms. The car day by day is losing battery. I have a volt meter on where the lighter is to check the output and when it starts typically with a new battery after a day it will drop to about 12-13 Volts and a week or later it will drop to 10-11 and it ends up not starting at all. (Note that i daily-drive the car) The alternator works 100% because when i start the engine the volts pop up to 14-14.1. Lastly 3 things that i noticed. 1) When i dont lock the car its even worse. Battery drain at MAX. 2) Locked or Unlocked the car constants refreshes i dont know to explain this every 10 minutes an electronic buzzing sounds for a second normally i would overlook this but every 10 minutes :/ something smells fishy here! ahaha 3) Note that a couple of months back and i dont know if this has to do anything about this but i replaced the OEM display with an android model, aftermarket. Works perfect btw i have the old mode + a newly more modern outlook which also enables many other functionalities. Now i even thought that the extra cables (because there were A LOT OF CABLES) after installing the android radio might have caused an issue? I dont know... do tell me your opinions (the dude that usually fixes my electronics says that he cant find an issue to justify the loss)
  8. Hello, Hope you all will be well. I am having this transmission code - 4F86; from my ZF 6HP transmission on my N47D20A engine 120d Automatic. it was triggered last week following jerky transmission shifting and transmission malfunction sign, the transmission malfunction warning went way after switching off and on the car. Following the advice I replaced the gear box oil (meeting the 6HP) specification, replaced the oil pan and mechatronic bridge sleeves, it worked fine for a week and last evening it came back again along with the same symptoms. Like last time the transmission malfunction sign went away after switching off and on the car. I erased the code, however this afternoon when i ran the INPA again the code was there again nd this tie there was no warning or error message re transmission on the display. The error report from INPA is asunder. Can any of you please help me to understand where i am doing wrong. Much appreciated.
  9. Xja87

    PDC help wanted

    Hi guys! Got an issue with the PDC on my 04 530d e60 that I've been dealing with for a long time no, but not gotten any further.. So the system isn't working. All sensors are ticking besides the one on the front left, and now recently also the rear centre right one.. When the issue started, I had three sensors in the front that wasn't ticking. So I replaced all the front sensors (brand new) and the wiring harness aswell (second hand one). After that, the other sensors started ticking fine, but still not the one on the front left. With ignition on and PDC button engaged, I've measured all sensors in the front and 3 of them are receiving power, but the one on the front left gets 0V.. I've replaced the PDC control unit with a second hand one, that came from a car that had no issues with the PDC. But this control unit has not been coded with the car (if this is necessary)? Since the dealership and brand new parts for this system isn't that cheap, I wanted to get some opinions on this, if anyone has had the same issue or got any ideas..
  10. Can someone please help why I’m keep spitting oil
  11. ZibraeelsLCI

    Boot issues - BMW E60 LCI

    Evening, So a couple of days ago my boot stopped opening with the central locking and the boot release button on the drivers side. The only way to open the boot is with the manual key that slides out the main key. Now this isn’t the biggest headache but I’m now getting a constant ping on the system and a “boot open” message! Looking for a quick fix before I lose my mind. Thanks
  12. Hello! Im new to the forum so sorry if i did something wrong. I have just bought a bmw 520d 2008. I am super happy with the car, but i have some problems. The starter engine keeps getting faulty. The car was in at the bmw dealer to get swapped starter by past owner. They said that the car is leaking on the starter and that i had to be swapped later if the oil leak wasnt fixed. Fast forward to my ownership and the starter went faulty. I swapped the starter with a used known good one and the car worked perfect again, untill 4 days later the starter got faulty again. I have taken the starter out and there is allot of oil on the starter itself. The solenoid is what going bad on both of the starter. I have ordered a new one today, but i want to fix the oil leak before i mount the new one. I am going tomorrow to take pictures of the behind of the engine as i have seen people complaining of leak from one of the bolts on the timing chain cover, and if i can remove this bolt to put loctite selant on this bolt. Have anyone else experienced anything similar? Please say what you did. And btw the flywheel is all free from oil, but there is some not much oil just where the starter sits in the gearbox housing. No leak from rear main seal. There is sweathing oil coming from the oil sump too, but my mechanic didn't think this was the fault tho. There is no oil coming from valve cover gasket on top of engine too. Seems like its coming form the back of the engine. And there is oil leaking form the oil filter housing too which im going to fix next week, but want to fix the starter problem first of all. Thanks for all help. Everything is welcome, will come with pictures tomorrow :-)
  13. kennetkarlz

    e61 died

    Hello. Sorry in advance for my english. Really need some help with my e61 525d 07 lci. A couple of weeks ago my car just died while driving in 70km/h, no error codes. Started the car and drove home. From that day the car has never felt the same as it used to. Feels like i loose the connection with the accelerator pedal from time to time and im always worring about when it will die again. Was out driving some days ago and the car died again, got all of these codes, + throttle body, accelerator pedal and all the glowplugs. 004671 006E24 005F74 006DCB 0051A8 Bought and changed : Accelerator pedal Throttle body Glowplug module And cleaned the DPF as good as i could. Everything was fine for a week and then the car died again.. with the same codes as above but without glowplug, throttle body and the pedal. Can you guys please help me where to start looking?
  14. Rocket_Scientist_535D

    Another Newbie!

    Good evening all! Hopefully I am not jumping the gun here, as I have not yet purchased the 2005 535D M SPORT I will be viewing on Saturday. Let's just assume that I like it and end up buying it :-) I am selling my current 2012 Jaguar XFS 3.0D Portfolio in order to free up some cash as I am buying a house soon. Sad to see the Jag go, but also looking forward to getting the BMW. Yes it's several years older and a little higher in miles but it's a good spec and looks great in the pictures. Has the added benefit of coilovers, DPF delete, swirl flaps removed and mapped to 351 BHP and 745 Nm. I do like to modify my cars and the XF was at it's tuning limit at Stage 1 (322 BHP/680 Nm). I am thinking of getting the Stage 3 pack from Ecotune (some time in the future) - 415 BHP/815 Nm! I will post some pictures after I have bought it (fingers crossed). It's a long trek from Deal to Selby! No doubt I will be asking dumb questions as this is the first BMW I have owned. I have had 6 SAAB's, 4 Jaaaags and plenty of other makes but never had a BMW, AUDI or MERC or VW. Stay safe everyone! Khawar
  15. Paj

    Paj's E60 525d SE Project

    Hi Well I thought I'd bore you to death with my E60 project. I've had a few Mini's and BMW's over the years which have all been great cars and I probably sold them too soon. I was looking for a 6 cylinder E60, ideally as new as possible but on my tight budget of £3-3.5k. Unfortunately the newer cars were either rough or had something wrong with them and then in early November 2018 I found this...... It is a much loved and well spec'd 06/06 525d SE manual pre LCI. It had a new MOT and 108k on the clock. It also had full BMW history up to 99k including new front brakes and the seller then threw in an oil change service and 6 months Platinum warranty. Main spec upgrades are full electric heated leather seats, elec steering wheel, Dynamic Xenon's and voice controlled Pro Nav. All this for £3.6k. I had to wait a week before I could pick it up from near Crawley. That was the longest week ever!!!!! The drive home was so smooth and I was already starting to plan what I would do to her. I've just got to remember I'm on a tight budget..... I've decided to keep things subtle and any changes will be bolt on, bolt off. This is so I can take any mods onto the next E60. So what have I been doing over the winter months? Mainly getting her mechanically sound and buying the parts ready to add, so here goes. Week 1 was lighting, I would say a nice and easy start but changing angle eye lamps is a right palaver. I also added silver indicators lamps to the rear and side repeaters. I've got new front fogs but still haven't fitted them. As Christmas Eve was a pleasant day (and our Turkey was cooking in the oven) I decided to give mine and my son's car a wash. This is when I discovered my scuttle drains were slightly blocked but worse than that, the tiny drain holes in the rear door were totally blocked. This caused water to run from behind the door card and into the rear foot well. I now check the tiny holes in all the doors!!! I've also found water in the boot, This was due to the boot vent rubber curling up and allowing spray through. This has been cured by warming the rubber flap and "ironing" it flat. In the New Year I found these MV2's for sale in Wells, Somerset. I met a top bloke called Darren and bought them sharpish. They are in great condition and 1 alloy is almost new with decent tyres too. Darren now has 19" Spiders adorning his gorgeous 525d MSport. Here are some before and after pic's, as you can see the back axle is crying out for some spacers.....more of that later. Once the wheels were fitted I had a 4 wheel alignment. I decided this as I had a slight wobble at 70mph and the steering wheel was off centre. She now drives straight and smooth, below is the final print out. It was almost all red before they started adjusting. A massive thanks to Autotechnic's Blandford for the mechanical support!!!! I've always been a fan of car audio. I even competed in the IASCA Sound Off's during the late 90's. My Cavalier and I did quite well and travelled the UK (from Belfast to Brighton) taking on some awesome installs in the Point Of Reference category. I finally made the UK finals at Wembley. Here are some old photos. Anyway, my E60 needed some improved sounds and by chance I saw an ad on this Forum. "Lildonut" (AKA Stu) was selling a new pair of Earthquake SWS-8's. Also he was kind enough to met me halfway and we had a great chat about all things 5, during which I said "I'm after spacers for the back axle." well I couldn't believe it but Stu had 3 12mm spacers that I could have. So I fitted the spacers as soon as possible and here are some before and afters. When I lowered the jacks the suspension looked a bit high but it has now settled to the correct height. With the improving weather I've been able to get on with my ICE install this weekend. Once the battery was disconnected and seats removed I was able to get on with running cables and install the under seat subs. The sound from these earthquakes is amazing and they will only get better as they "bed in" and I set up the sound stage. As I have the Pro Nav CCC iDrive I decided to take the sound from the old sub speaker cables. I then fed this high level signal into a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty Line Driver. This then converts it to a line level RCA output but with lots of oomph. I have located it under the passenger seat so the high level inputs are as short as possible. The Rocky Fosgate then sends a lovely clean signal to my DLS 4 channel amplifier. The DLS is a very adjustable, flexible and powerful amp. (For info - I have piggybacked the remote power line to fuse 66 in the boot. This turns the ICE equipment off about 30-40 minutes after turning the car off. The amp location and wiring termination is temporary until I finalise my system design) The amp drives the Earthquarke Subs and a set of 10cm Vibe Components. These were easy to fit once I'd modified the (Ebay supplied) adaptor plates. I needed to machine the 3 holes slightly and cut a lug so they fitted flush. End of Part 1
  16. Hi All, it would seem that me looking for answers on here regarding issues with my car is becoming a recurring problem As I got in my BMW E60 5 SERIES this morning it wouldn’t start. It came up with a yellow (not red) symbol on the dashboard and a fault code on the built in I Drive system Saying “Electro-mechanical steering wheel lock system(ELV) is inhibiting engine start, Move steering wheel in order to start engine” however, the steering wheel is locked and doesn’t move or hardly even wiggle from side to side. This is causing my car not to start. Any ideas on how to resolve? i’ve tried bypassing this by calling a local mechanic out to try and clear all the codes on the car with the diagnostics computer but this doesn’t seem to be working thanks in advance!
  17. Horsey

    BMW Documentation

    Hi all, Over the years I have managed to accumulate various pieces of BMW documentation from an assortment of sites and sources. I thought it time to place them all in one location where everyone can access them. They are available from my Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxDd4Jzlov8Efmg5VVVEaTZVYkplN3MzaGZLQUEzaWFjU0luMl81cW9oSGxlOENGbTlKQW8&usp=sharing The folder currently contains the following: E60 engineer training modules; M Division documentation; Various E60 manuals and guides, and an assortment of BMW presentations. As I find more I will upload them to the Drive and update this post. Mods - Bearing this in mind, perhaps it would be handy to make this pinned? Best, Horsey *Please note I do not own the documents or claim to be the author of them*
  18. Xja87

    Dynamic Drive problem

    Hi guys! Need some help with my 04 530d. Got the «Dynamic Drive failure» in iDrive. Checked for codes in Ista and it says «Supply lateral acceleration sensor». So I got one new sensor changed it, but nothing changed. I know there’s two sensors, but when I mesaure the connection going into the sensors, I read 0,04V with ignition on, and after a while I could only read 0V going into the sensors.. so it’s not getting any power. Checked fuse and it’s fine. What to check next? Controll unit? The ARS sway bar in the front is leaking and covered in oil, but I should still be getting power to the sensors?
  19. hi there Weird defect. When reversing engine shut-off. Took longer then usually to restart. When started, computer announced that car is in limp mode. Later same day I've scanned errors with simple OBD reader. Crankshaft position sensor cooked. Sensor replaced error erased and car still in limp mode and CPS error is back. Any idea what else would trigger that error? Regards Pete
  20. Xja87

    MAF question

    Hey guys! I’ve been having a rough idle and kind of jerking/stalling whilst driving. And I noticed once I unplugged the MAF, the car runs just fine. However, I now replaced the MAF and reseted the adaptions in ISTA, but the car still runs poor — and normal without it plugged in.. and I also noticed that the new MAF won’t read new values, when I enter adaptions and try to reset it again after driving for a few days it says 0.0 values... any guesses??!!
  21. Hi all, I’ve resorted to this online forum as none of the several Mechanical garages I’ve asked can locate and resolve my issue. It’s a 525d e60 and After I drive it for about 30 minutes (Possibly Just happens when the car warms up In that case ) The car start to sound like an tractor, it’s like a deep metallic kind of sound that comes from the exhaust and as the revs rise, it feels like the turbo loses power and comes in and out constantly. it doesn’t make the noise whilst the car is still either. It does that until I put my foot down and thrash the car which is the only way for it to go back to normal. - I will also add (this happens every time I drive the car) that when taking my foot off the accelerator, the car makes some of ‘Peww’ kind of noise which is the only way I can describe it a little bit like some sort of dump valve. When the car starts to sound like a tractor this odd noise doesn’t happen. Which makes me think it could be some sort of sensor perhaps? I’ve checked all of the inter cooler hoses and cannot find no issues there. Has anybody ever had any experience of this, or could know the issue of this? Thank you in advance
  22. Mantvydas

    BMW E61 Rear fog lights as drl

    Hello, im newbie here, found that this forum is very friendly and helpfull, already got a bunch of help for coding and etc. I would like to ask some question, one day i was looking at mine e61 (pre-FL) and decided that rear look of the car looks much better when rear fog lights is on. It is possible to somehow code them to run all the time with drl? Also by lowering voltage by bit, so they wont blind people behind me. Was searching all over the internet to get my answer without a luck, sorry if there is already answer to my question in the forum. Will wait for replies!
  23. I have a BMW e60 520D M47 that suddenly lost power when driving and start aggressively shaking, suddenly then power would come back and did this a few times. By the time i got home the car was stalling trying to pull away and was idling really badly and eventually it would stop starting all together, it tries to start bud shakes the whole car aggressively and puts out a lot of black smoke out of the exhaust. I have scanned the car with Inpa and dis and no codes are being stored apart from glow plug errors. I have changed injectors to a known good set and checked fuel pressure while starting and this seems fine. I have moved the turbo actuator by hand to make sure this was not seized. I have been told it could be a timing chain issue but i didn't know what to think as apparently these engine are not prone to the same issues as the newer N47 I am now stuck and would really appreciate your guys advice before i decide to strip the car or get the engine replaced. I have attached a youtube video of the car trying to start. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqw6mzgp848
  24. Evening guys, I'm just gonna lay everything out here and hope that someone has had something similar. E60 '08 525d LCI (142k Miles) I wrote off an F10 and decided to go back to the E60, so I got one from a rated dealer. When I test drove the car nothing was amiss other than the usual rubber donut and gearbox could benefit from a service, aside from that felt slow but was convinced it was going from a 310bhp ZF8 box to a 197bhp ZF6 that was making it all in my head. So bought it thinking that was the case. Obviously I was right and wasn't in my head, went to map it the next day and surprise surprise it made 164bhp. Tuner showed me the diagnostics and only errors was glow plugs x2 and the MAP sensor. Straight forward fix? You would assume so. Anyway he just put one of his base maps on there in the mean time and said to bring it back to finish it off on the dyno when it was changed. Following day had it changed, no difference at all. Only difference was now there was only glow plugs left on ECU. Took it back to the tuner no less than a week later thinking again maybe it's in my head and haven't noticed the gains. On the dyno it made 194bhp but this was only from him mapping it previously, we're only just about standard power at this point. Now the ECU was showing DPF back pressure fault and the readings showed the DPF starting to block up. Both agreed that was probably the next route to go down so I had it gutted, along with doing both thermostats to elimate it running cold and rich which in my head thought maybe affecting the fuelling. Anyway, DPF and stats done, went back to dyno. Still 194bhp no change. At this point there is no codes in the ECU only the glow plugs, so i'm scratching my head. Took it to a german repair specialist and they was scratching their heads too. Thought it must be something mechanical to not throw a fault so cheapest place to start was fuel filter as hadn't been done 2012 so within the realms of needing changing, obviously still no change at all car felt the same. Started to poke around in the engine, done a smoke test and no leaks so all lines are intact etc. Had a look at EGR valve but was hard to move so the actual valve is fine, I can't remember exactly how they got to it but the solenoid was failing so they blocked off the vac line? and turned it off in ECU. Change was negligebale only a bit more responsive down low in rev range. They was then out of ideas without getting their ECU technician involved, think he was like their mobile diagnostics etc. so he popped in and molested it for a bit, the live readings was showing the intake temp was 60deg so that was changed and honestly I thought they had it, car was eager to go, responsive and had power all through rev range. Bingo. No, of course not. Me thinking yeah finally that's that sorted, went back to the dyno today and it made 199bhp with 440nm up from 400nm the last time. What the hell is going on?! Car has no errors, all live readings are correct, boost pressure and fuel rail pressure is bang on, all temps are bang on, recent services less than 4k miles ago etc. 2 people have mapped it and neither can get it running anything over standard power! This is like a mechanics worst nightmare. Praying someone has known something like this or had it before. Any ideas is greatly appreciated, sorry for the long read just thought would probably be helpful to have everything from start to finish.
  25. Hi Guys, I have a '08 525d, can't find the exact info i'm looking for. Is the DPF/CAT one unit in the LCI? I had a DPF delete last week, just curious if they took the cat with it if it's all the same unit? Any info appreciated.
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