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Found 289 results

  1. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    In case, as I experienced when I mistakenly bought a two stage airbag steering wheel, instead of one stage for my car, I would like to give this advice to any one who is thinking of getting a new or refurbished steering wheel. These are two different type of steering wheels, on the left is a one stage airbag wheel and on the right is a two stage airbag wheel. It is nearly impossible to put a two stage wheel, in a car that was born with one stage steering wheel. My advice and 2c, do not try to attempt to do that conversion, unless you have a good understanding on reprogramming the ECU bin. files, (that is if you decide to convert it to a functional two stage airbag car) and a fairly good understanding of your car wiring. So far, I have not heard of anyone that has made this conversion 100% to the specs and correct......> BUT, there is an "easier" way around this, by scarifying one of the stages of the airbag, thereby it becomes a one stage airbag steering wheel, like the one you have in the older BMW´s like mine from 1997. Sins writing this above in 2016, I have installed the two stage steering wheel (in late 2018) and I got it to works perfectly, including all the control buttons and the airbag, without getting the red airbag warning light! and again in late 2020 I installed ones again a "new", two stage steering wheel with shifter flaps, with the same positive results You can read more about how to make this changeover with other pictures and "info" I have in my portfolio.
  2. V_MAX

    "New" Larger m50 Manifold

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Engine M52b25 with M50 Manifold "Chip-Tuned". Actually there was a soldered chip inside the ECU module. It was a no good sun of a B.. junk "tuning" the only ting that was so called "tuned" was the "ignition base timing " everything else was untouched from stock. the ignition timing was completely out of proportion and sky high to the point where it would overheat the engine. Still to this day, I can not understand how the engine survived that heat during the summer time. I knew it was always running a bit on the hotter side but had a hard time finding the real reason. It only proofs, how good the MS41 ECU is when it comes to adaptations but this was to much for it to adapt to. I figured this out 10 years later out of frustration, after unsuccessful hunt, for a good reputable tuner in my vicinity when I began learning how to tune and remap the ECU myself.
  3. V_MAX

    M50 Manifold On M52b25 Engine

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    First I had to find a good M50 manifold and modify it so all the pluming would work as intended. I also had to make some minor modifications to the power steering reservoir and fuel rail bracket, no big deal. Sins writing this in 2015 I have exchanged the fuel injectors to 116,87% larger injectors, new larger camshafts, oil cooler, refurbished the vanos seals, renewed all 24 valve stem seals, 6 new coils, modified the cold air intake, bypassed/disconnected the throttle body heat, new and larger viscose fan and coupling for hotter climate, 2 upper oxygen sensors and remapped all the fuel maps, vanos maps, timing maps amongst some other maps in the ECU. The result was a better fuel economy and better emission numbers, more power and responsive engine and cleaner exhaust without a trace of oil or any black soot on the end pipes, all this was done in 2019 to 2021 and going onward with fine tuning of the ECU. Now that everything is taken apart it is a good opportunity to replace old and brittle plastic and rubber parts like the oil housing rubber gasket that usually is hard to get to. Obviously there will be some loss of torque with this modification under 3500rpm. but after that, there is a lot of gain in your smile. Unless your daily driving is mostly on long steep roads for longer time, then I highly recommend this rather simple conversion. The only way to compensate for the loss of torque is replacing both of the standard camshafts that came with the M52b25/30 with two new/used ones; intake cam from M54b30 for the intake and another INTAKE cam from M50NV for the EXHAUST sound crazy but that is the rout to go. You have to perform minor modifications on both of the replacement cams. (you can read more about the camshafts with other pictures, there is a rabbit hole, you should be aware of when buying a M54B30 camshafts, that you might fall into) After having made this conversion I found out, that I have kind of, maxed out my fuel injectors A/F, they where the green Bosch (0 280 150 415) capable of around 124,32g/min, therefore I have replace them with bigger "Bosch 0 280 155 830" (blue-grayish) these are newer type EV- 6 injectors without a interchangeable pintle cap. The 0 280 155 830 injectors are capable of 269,61 g/min, or 116,87,% higher fuel delivery capacity than the original small ones that I previously used from the start. It goes without saying that remapping the ECU is mandatory sins the 830´s have the capability of much more fuel delivery from the get-go. Consequently I have rewritten all maps retailed to fuel and vanos accordingly. This is where "MS41 Quickflash", "RomRaider", "MLV" and MS Excel come into play, to remap the ECU. The final message is; do not change to higher capacity fuel injectors in hope of getting more horses out of the engine, it does not work that way, it only drowns the horses you had, to much fuel does not teach them to swim, instead of running. In most cases the standard injectors that came with the engine are cable of delivering more than enough fuel, despite some minor tuning. Larger capacity injectors apply if you are going for a turbo or compressor or as in my case, larger cams, m50 intake manifold and headers with free flow exhaust and a rather small injectors to start with, capable of only 124,32g/min, and still, they might have worked out, but they where the older type of injectors and worn out, beside I wanted to have more buffer on the tuning if I would install a compressor or turbo. I say again; If you are going to do this modifications; I would recommend, that the ECU should be remapped/tuned by someone who knows what he or she is doing to get the most out of this modifications and with new larger fuel injectors you HAVE to remap the ECU, there is no way around it. You can just let it be as is, with the standard tuned ECU with only the M50 manifold swap and the current fuel injectors and you will get some adaptation up to a certain point from the ECU, but not the full benefits as by remapping of the ECU accordingly, to the new larger intake manifold. You can read more about the cam replacement in my portfolio. All I need now is a COMPRESSOR
  4. V_MAX

    Rear lights, led replacement.

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Final result, considerably brighter red lights. I'm not going to say that this is an easy thing to do for everyone. You need to have a basic nohow of electricity and how electrical tings work with LED and a lot of patience with soldering. Altogether, it can take up to 4 hours to repair one light but it is worth the effort, sins these light are rather expensive and we should stop throwing things in the bin, instead of fixing them. These lights are an original HELLA lights but for some reason they came wired wrongly (for my car at least) and burned out in less than an hour. The seller refunded me the cost of them so this was a fix of only £.10,00. for two brand new lights. Much later I found out, that there should have been two resistor boxes and wiring harness with these lights to compensate for the way the lights are wired up. What I did was, I change the connection to the way the old lights where, that is, they are now series connected like the original ones. Why HELLA decided to ad two resistors and wiring harness is a mystery to me, when the earlier setup worked fine for over 20 years, without thees two resistor boxes and an extra two wiring harnesses at an extra cost for the buyer. I have had the lights without the "new" resistors for almost three years and they have worked perfectly so far.
  5. V_MAX

    Hotter Camshafts = More Power

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Yes, I finally did it!! Sins this is an M52 b25 engine and I did replaced the M52 intake manifold with an M50 I had lost torque in the lower rpm's and to fix that, I always knew that I needed new cams to repair this lag. I went for the cheapest option with some modifications and used a M54b30 intake cam on the intake side and an M50b25/NV (non vanos) intake cam as an exhaust cam. Both of the cams have to be modified to fit properly at a machine shop on a lathe to 2,2mm of the M50nv flange so the sprocket lines up properly and 5,00mm of the helical gear for the vanos on the M54b30 cam. Also you have to take a 2mm of the bottom under side of the bolt that holds the helical gear, otherwise it will stick out of the helical gear, I don't know if that is necessary but I did it to be on the safe side. The cam specs before my mods, where M52b25: int; dur. 228°, and a 9,00mm lift on both in and exhaust. After the swap with the new/used cams; ................... dur. 240° and a 9,70mm lift on both in and exhaust. Sins the stock M52b25 cams are 110 degrees lobe center angle on intake and 101 degrees lobe center angle on exhaust I opted for a 6 degree advance for the intake cam. The M54b30 cam has a lobe center angle of 122.5 degrees, so by advancing it 6 degrees results in a lobe center angle of 116.5. The exhaust I used (intake M50b25NV) has a lobe center angle of 101 degrees. This is the same angle as stock but because it has 12 degrees more duration a total duration of 244 degrees instead of 228, it results in a much more aggressive valve closing time. One word of advice if you are going to do this setup, be alert! There are lots of cams ("M54b30") for sale that are not the 9,70mm lift and 240° duration for sale on eBay. It looks like the casting numbers or something else, might be the same for M54b25 and the M54b30 but the M54b25 has only a lift of 9,00mm and duration of 228° (the same as M52b25) If you are thinking of buying a M54b30 cam then ask the seller to measure the length/height of the lobe and it should be around 47,6mm, anything under 47mm is not an M54b30, unless it is totally worn down and therefore ruined and useless. When I was looking for a real M54b30 cam I got offers on two of four cams, that actually where not M54b30 but most likely M54b25 and I do not think that the seller new it himself, sins he asked me for info regarding how to be sure, if it was an b25/ or b/30 cam. Furthermore, the specs for thees engines are all the same for the exhaust camshaft, that is; 9,00mm lift and 244° in duration and and inlet camshafts 9,00mm lift and 228° in duration for thees engines; M52b20TU - M52b25TU - M52b28TU - M54b25, but the the M54b30 has an inlet cam that has a lift of 9,7mm and duration of 240° exactly the same as the inlet cam for M50b20NV and inlet cam for M50b25NV. Sins those two cams ( M54b30 & M50b20/25NV) match each other then it would be sensible to use them together, although both are inlet cams. The reason for not using both inlet and exhaust cams from M50b20/25 is that the exhaust cam in M50b20/25 has only a lift of 8,8mm and a duration of 228° so they do not match, witch is preferable in most cases. For some of you that have not tried it before, it might be a little bit difficult to time the camshafts correct in, sins you can not use standard cam blockers with the "new" camshafts, exempt the intake camshaft it could be used hear, although I went for 6° advance as I explained earlier. I used 3D printed stop blocks to make my work easier and a micro meter but it is not that hard, ones you have the knowledge and right tools to time them correctly in. I am not going further into that hear. Sins you are in this process of changing cams you should use the opportunity to renew all 24 valve seals. It is time-consuming and back braking to change the valve seals but worth the effort (you can read about it with an other picture) . It would also be beneficial at this point, to rebuild the vanos seals if they are worn out and starting to rattle and it goes without saying; renew the valve cover gasket and a good investment to get new chain guide rail's sins they get very brittle with time and new chain tensioner. New cam/vanos sprockets and upper chain is in most cases not necessary (I did not renew those parts). As is, then I would say that I am happy with the conversion but to get good results from this work it is paramount to re-tune/re-map the ECU, otherwise things will not work properly and you only get partial benefits from this rather big conversion. I have been reading and studying RomRaider for months on end, and finally I am getting “some” sense of how the Siemens ECU “MS41” works and how to tune, read and re-flash the ECU, it is complicated in the beginning but extremely rewording and fun, ones you try to understand how the heart of the engine works, through all the different parameters of the ECU into the physical world and mechanics of the engine itself. Finally, if you are wondering if the fuel consumption is up and out of wack, or that you will not pass emissions test at MOT, then don't worry. In my case, the fuel consumption vent way down to factory specs and actually ones, under factory specs. The emission vent down to and for the first time, the exhaust is totally clean after 300 miles of driving. But, and hear comes the big but, these fine results can only come to realization if you re-tune the ECU, to accommodate for these major changes you have made to the engine.
  6. V_MAX

    Valve Spring Tool And Valve Seals

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This is how I got the valves to stay at top and not falling down into the cylinder (no,nooo, this is not a new type of candle wick to replace the spark plug) I could have used air but this was easier and absolutely no risk of loosing a valve down into the cylinder. A piece of stiff nylon rope and a clever little valve spring press (got it from USA) and a lot of patience to remove 24 valve seals with the piston at TDC. This work was totally worth the effort I had to to put into this backbreaking bend over work, when the engine is in the car, to prevent oil consumption due to worn out valve seals. A few months ago I fully rebuilt the vanos and that gave my an instant 35% (yes, 35% it was drinking like a defect toilet) better fuel economy and my engine torque back to normal.
  7. For sale is a whole set of a factory sport suspension for 6 cylinder saloon e39 5 series. Front ones might also fit touring models, but please do your own checks beforehand. Set consist of: 2 front shock absorbers - 31 31 1 096 857 - genuine Sachs Advantage / BMW Sport shocks 2 rear shock absorbers - 33 52 1 091 922 - genuine Sachs Advantage / BMW Sport shocks 2 front springs - genuine BMW Sport / M Technic spring - part number unknow. 2 rear spring - genuine BMW Sport / M Technic spring - part number unknow. All four shocks are in good useable condition without any leaks. Front springs are good condition with just some surface rust and some paint peelng off. Rear springs have snapped on the smallest coil - on both sides (yours if you want them) Also included are 2 front bump stops (one is split) and front spring pads. Removed from a 2001 e39 525i fitted with optional S704 M Sports suspension. A nice upgrade to any standard SE suspension giving you also a 15mm drop in ride height. Price is £100 for the whole set or I might split it in pairs: Front shocks - £40 Rear shocks - £40 Front springs - £40 Rear springs will come free if you want them, or I will bin them. All prices include P&P (except for rear springs) Collection in person from New Milton in Hampshire also available at a discounted price. Please contact me with your requirements and also check my other items, as I'm having a garage clear out.
  8. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    With the entire engine tuning modifications the inevitable core/oil heat would build up in the engine, simply because there is more horsepower to cool down. You can read about what I have altered and change within the engine with other pictures. When the core heat in the engine rises the heat in the engine compartment rises to, and that leads to amongst other things a warmer intake manifold, ergo, that translates to warmer air when it reaches the head intake itself. Cold air is more dense, therefore we can add more fuel and add a good tuning to the mixture that will hopefully translates to more horsepower and who douse not need more power. The modifications where relatively simple and straightforward and not that complicated (until it exploded in my face). I bought the 13 row oil cooler from a seller on eBay. The hoses had to be shortened a bit to be fitted snugly. Two holes had to be made in the bracket that hold the water radiator for the new oil hoses. The oil cap was bought separately from another seller. You should be on your toes when choosing the oil cap, sins there are some caps for sale, that are missing a vital part that goes into the hole at the bottom of the oil filter housing/canister. If this hole at the bottom is not closed the engine will not reach a full oil pressure. This hole at the bottom can have two purposes, one is; when you take of the original cap the oil is drained through that hole to prevent oil spill and the other is in some cases, if you have a pin with two rubber seals the middle pin is hollow and has the capability to bypass oil through it and come out at the top of the inside of the cap to prevent an over pressure. As far as I know, then none of these aftermarket caps have the mesh, that goes inside the filter itself and some of the caps, use the inside part of the original cap in conjunction with the aftermarket one. If you shorten the hoses, remember to keep as much constant inward pressure on the hose as you possibly can, while tightening the nut it self. Still, I'm not 100% secure with this setup and need to find a good solution to prevent the hoses to come loos under pressure. Word of warning, these fittings are not so safe if you do not take time and care My issues with the fresh intake-air heat in the intake manifold and the engine was, that it reached 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f air temp. measured inside the manifold, at standstill and idling, with outside temperature at 20°c/68°f. To tackle this heat buildup I had two simple choices. Ether more cold air from the outside or external oil cooler. I opted for both solutions and the results where that the core heat (mostly the heat of the oil) of the engine dropped from 103°c to 93°c/217°f to199°f, ruffly10% lower and air temp inside the manifold from 62°c. down to 43°c./144°f down to 109°f., or 31%. Now, that might not seem a lot, but then this is measured at standstill and idling. When driving the numbers get much better. Sins writing this in September 2021 I have deleted the heat that goes into the throttle housing, with even better results regarding the manifold heat, just by deleting the throttle body heater. After the delete/bypass of the throttle body heater the intake temperature fell drastically down from 43°c./109°f down to 24°c/76°f at standstill and idling with outside temp. at 12°c/54°f, that is an additional heat reduction of approximately 44%. without taking intro consideration the difference in the ambient temperature. This heat reduction, gives me much more elbow room to tune the A/F ratio and timing. you can read more throttle body heat wit other picture. All in all, heat reduction inside the manifold from 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f down to 24°c/76°f that is a reduction of 61 - 65% from the start, with all the modifications regarding manifold temperature reduction. Summa summarium; Engine heat doped down by 10%, Air inside the manifold doped by 61 - 65% all measured at standstill and idling. The original air intake plastic tunnel took the intake air all the way in front of the water radiator from the left middle of the front bracket and actually, partly sucking air from the inside of the engine compartment, where there is a lot of thin warm air. As you can see, I cut the intake "spout" over, to enable more cold air to flow more freely to the engine intake, in conjunction with an air filter box that has an additional intake from the inner side of the wing that leads to the wheel well. I am pleased with these results for now, although I'm dabbling with the idea of a larger oil cooler (no, there is no need for larger cooler). Now I can continue with the fine tuning of the partial bin. files, sins all the parameters have changed due to overall, a cooler engine and colder air intake. After the installation I opted for painting the cooler in mat black heat resistant paint.
  9. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Honestly, I have lost count of how many steering wheels I have put in my car sins I got it back in 2010 but I think this is number 4. This steering wheel is actually a SSG steering wheel, probably from a e46 that looks like a SMG wheel with a carbon film. What "they" did is they covered the hole that is between the down spokes with fiberglass or some kind of raisin and then it looks like SMG wheel with no hole in the middle and then cowered it with carbon film. Unfortunately, you can not see the bottom half in this picture, but there are other pictures in my log that show the bottom half of the steering wheel. Although this is a two stage steering wheel and my car is a one stage it can be mounted with some modifications to the steering wheel stem/root for the new clock-spring that is from a steering wheel with heating capability and connect only one of the stages of the air bag. That said, it means that if the airbag blows, it will only give you a full blast in all cases. When connecting the paddles you need to take the paddles apart and remove two tiny(2mm) resistor in each of them, otherwise they will not give a clear ground as they should (read about it in another description in my folio). If you look trough my folio you can read much more about how to mount a two stage wheel on a one stage e39 from 1997. The thing I like about this setup is that, instead of having two "Joda" ears with + and - on them on each side. With the SSG paddles I can both up or downshift on bot left and right side that you can not with a SMG + and - shifters as far as I know. My setup is; when I push them toward me they shift up and if I push on the top, they shift down. It is easy to convert the shifting sequins just by switching the wires. All buttons on the steering wheel are functional and no air bag warning lights in the dash.
  10. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Wishful thinking? This is what I would like to see on my speedo Actually, this is one of two Ohm resistant measurements for one of the steering wheel flap/pad, the up shift gives you a Ohm reading of 1008 Ohm with the resistors on the electrical boards in the flaps. That is why I had to remove the two tiny(2mm) resistors on each circuit bord to fully separate the connection to get two clear signal-poles for up and downshift with less than 0.04 Ohm. All bells and whistles worked fully as intended on the steering wheel, that is, both paddles work the same way. When you pull on the flap it shifts into a higher gear and push on the top for downshifting. It was my chose to have it this way but I could easily have made a split, so that one paddle would have a downshift and vice versa. This a modified SSG that looks like SMG wheel with two stage airbag, paddle shift, steering wheel that is fully functional without any red warning lights on a one stage e39 from '97 that was borne/manufactured with one stage air bag steering wheel and no flaps. You can read more about two stage wheels vs. one stage with other pictures.
  11. V_MAX

    Delation Of The Throttle Body Heater

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Deleting the warm up for the throttle body housing was my last attempt to lower the intake air heat. For some reason I was reluctant for years, to delete this BMW feature. I thought to myself, that there must be some reason for going through all the trouble of designing warm-up features into the throttle housing, as if this was a piston airplane engine that you turn the carb. heat on, mostly when you are coming in for landing to prevent the carburetor to ice up and consequently, you lose all power, with a possible bad or fatal ending. I remember when I was learning to fly that you had much less power, if you forgot to cut off the carb. heat, after touch and go. I read somewhere that BMW introduced this feature due to some possibly related accidents due to a throttle body ice-up under certain weather circumstances and therefore, consequently you might end up with an open full throttle, or more likely a closed throttle with no power and a panic attack. Another hypothesis I have been rolling around in my head is; that most likely BMW introduced this to make a stable environment for the tuning of the ECU/engine, sins this would hold a steady and stable heat on the intake ambient air and smaller intake air heat variants. This would benefit the environment and lower emission sins the ECU is not coping with large swings in ambient air heat. On the other side, it bothers me that; the MS41 ECU is a magnificent peace of computer programing and all the parameters are there, to cope with amongst other tings, a different intake heat and ambient heat, so why did the engineers at BMW do this? honestly, I have not found a definite answer to that question jet. Maybe it is different for an M52 intake manifold than the M50 sins the intake plenum are much narrower on the M52 and thereby it would create higher air velocity/venturi and colder intake air to the head, this is just a speculation on my behalf but the fact is; that venturi effect drastically reduces the ambient air in a carburetor up to 70° sins it partly relies on ventuti effect due to restrictions in the neck (that is where the icing occurs in conjunction with the butterfly) of the carburetor, but in our case there are considerably little restrictions in the throttle body itself but still, there is a possibility of icing happening if the circumstances are correct. The initial tests after bypassing the water hoses leading to the throttle body and blocking of the holes show; that the water coolant, that had at times reach almost 99°c /210°f fell down to steady 87,7°c and could reach up to 88,4°c/189,9°f up to 191,1°f (that was mainly due to the oil cooler, has nothing to do with the heater bypass) and the intake temperature in the manifold fell drastically down also, from 43°c./109°f down to 24°c/76°f (that was mainly due to bypassing the throttle body heat) at standstill and idling with outside temp. at 12°c/54°f, that is a reduction of approximately 61 to 65% from the start, without the oil cooler and air intake mods, when the manifold inside heat was at 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f, with ambient temperature at 20°c/68°f. The easiest way to do this bypass is simply; loosen both of the water hoses from the throttle body and also the shorter hose to from the metal pipe. Through away the shorter one and reconnect the remaining longer one to the metal outlet pipe from the engine, job is dun and the water circulates its natural way through the pipes bypassing the throttle body. This heat reduction, gives me much more elbow room to tune the A/F ratio and timing amongst other parameters within the MS41. You can read more about my tackle with heat, with "E39 Engine Oil Cooler Final Setup"
  12. V_MAX

    SSG -SMG/Bastard_With 14 Functions

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    There are more than one reason I chose to buy this steering wheel.... First of all, I wanted a steering wheel that looked like an SMG wheel but didn't like the flap design with these long pointy or thin flaps with + and - and then again I didn't like the SSG steering wheel because the spoke pointing down is split into two with a gap in it, but the flaps have nice sophisticated design and you have the option of up or downshift on both "flaps" separate from each other, that you can not on a SMG steering wheel, as far as know. So, what can you do? When I found this not so original two stage airbag (my car is a one stage) steering wheel on eBay in Germany, I could see that it was originally an SSG steering wheel but it had been altered to look like an SMG by filling in the hole on the downward spoke cover with raisin. After that they covered it with a carbon film that actually is an immaculate work that you can not put a finger on and it blends well in, with the rest of the steering wheel. The things I like about this steering wheel are; the steering wheel is ever so slightly flattened at the bottom and the seams on the upper half are horizontal, instead of just going around the rim, that is a nice professional workmanship and probably not easy to do. beside the overall look, then this steering wheel has all the functions you can put on one steering wheel inc. changing gears with the "flaps" that actually do not look like any cheep flaps but more like finger size buttons when looked at, from the front. I can tell you that it was not cheep, but it did fulfill all my wishes and drain my wallet a little bit.
  13. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I was among them who stated that it would be hard if not impossible, to install a two stage airbag steering wheel in a one stage steering wheel car from 97' but on the contrary, it is possible to do so without getting any red airbag warning lights. It is not straight forward replacement but it is possible, by using the old clock spring, plus some modifications to the back side of the steering wheel by forming a new base for the old clock with a "aluminum epoxy" for the clock spring base, plus grinding/drilling and cutting a new hole for the plugs and wires. One stage clock spring is mounted on the steering wheel itself but two stage is mounted on the steering column itself and those are to different type of steering columns and wiring + connecting plugs. If this is done right, everything should work just fine, but with the sacrifice of loosing one of the airbag stages, so if it blows, you only get full blast instead of slightly less if you should get into a minor accident as the two stage was intended to work. I'm willing to accept a full blow and sacrifice the lesser one, not that I have any personal experience from airbags in my face. My first try was plugging into stage #2, red warning light that I had to erase but was unsuccessful. Tried stage #1 and ones again, I got red light but it was easy to erase and now everything works, including everything else on the steering wheel. That took me by a surprise, sins this steering wheel has 4 extra buttons that where not on the old one. This steering wheel is a little bit smaller in diameter and thicker in your hands and not as bulky at the stem, therefor it is easier to see the bottom half of the instrument panel. If you are wondering what that thing is in the right corner of the picture? I had an old original BMW telephone holder that I added USB charger to it and a fold up stand/holder for my tablet or phone.
  14. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I thought this little information might help if you experienced some strange electrical maladies, regarding your wipers or the turn signals turn on by themselves for no apparent reason at all, or they might stop working at all. Back in 2016 when these pictures were taken, I frustratingly experienced that the wipers either would not work, or when they worked they would not stop at the right place. Some time later, similarly strange thing things happened to the turn signals. The turn signals would suddenly come one for no reason at all, without touching the indicator stalk, or they stopped working at all. I change the indicator stalk for a new one and the problem persisted. Put in a new wiper motor and still the problem persisted with the wipers. I thought to myself that there had to be some common problem, for both the wipers and the turn signals to go bad at approximately the same time, but what? Then I read it somewhere, that my problems could be related to the starter switch! Of all things… the starter switch? It never even entered my mind that it could be the ignition starter switch in the steering column. After removing the ignition starter switch, that has an old fashioned "contact breaker points system" inside it, I dismantled it and cleaned the points with contact solvent and fine grit sandpaper on the "points" contacts, put it back in place and all my problems vanished. Later I bought a new Ignition starter switch just to be on the safe side. In the picture you can see the contacts, at the end of the long copper springs and the axle with the lobes that push on the copper springs that are inside the switch. It is relatively easy to replace the starter switch and if you want to see how to go about it, then you can find good video instructions on YouTube. I would like to ad, that in my mind, there could have been other things contributing to my problems like for instance; a worn out indicator stalk, worn out wiper motor, bad earth/wire or connection or the LCM (light control module) that unfortunately too often has to take the blame for other electrical problems, that are not directly related to the real electrical problems (hysteresis) sins it starts to send signals, as if something was wrong with the LCM and consequently we assume it must be the LCM. The wiper stalk and wiper motor or anything related to these two stalks on the steering column seldom read the direct fault codes to the fiscal part that has gone bad, but instead it points at the LCM. It goes without saying that the LCM can go bad, but often I think it is the wrong diagnosis to begin with. I’ll give you my personal last hick up with the LCM code that happened the other day. I got two fault code readings at the same time; the LCM was not working properly and a HAVAC (Heater Vent Air Conditioning). It turned out to be the blower heater end resistor "hedgehog" that had conked out. This time I was lucky with two codes at the same time but one was half false sins it was nothing fiscally wrong with the LCM but only something related to the HAVAC. New blower resistor after 24 years (that is a PITA to change with large hands) and my problems were solved, no fault codes on the poor LCM. From my personal experience, I got no fault codes at all, when the starter switch went bad on me. contact breaker points system.
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    KAPOW! Fix?

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This is the the best I could come up with, as remedy to halter or prevent the hoses from popping of, simply by connecting the two of them together with two hose clamps instead of one, over some fabric tape. This way the oil hoses hopefully up to a point, supplement each other but is not good enough or adequate for me to feel 100% safe. I am still scared sh.....less that she blows on me again at the worst place in the traffic, or at 7000Rpm but so far it has stood the test. I wish the red oil can warning light was much bigger than it is, in the instrument cluster.
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    New Grill

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This is the new upper and lower grill and bezels for the fog lights, with additional air intakes in the lower grill for cooling of the brakes. Looks better I think, specifically around the fog-light opening holes that cool downs the alternator on the left side.
  17. Hi Guys, I'm working on a 1997 M62 540i with High Cluster and the coolant gauge refuses to come up. All wiring going into the cluster is correct, sender has been replaced. I've accessed the secret menu and KTMP on the display is giving me good temps. But the gauge needle does not move at all. Anyone experienced anything similar? I'm suspecting that somehow someone messed with the cluster coding resulting in the gauge not working. I've pulled up HEX using PASoft but have not been able to pinpoint the line which defines the temperatures and angles of the temperature gauge. Could someone maybe send me a copy of his coding so that I can compare? Thanks!
  18. V_MAX

    Boot Or Trunk Spaghetti

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This was a challenge, rewiring the boot wires. No fun but necessary replacement after 18 years of use. I wonder how many times the boot lid has been opened and closed in 18 years? That’s how 15 wires of broken mess look like and somehow they worked except the light in the boot. You can buy a replacement set of wires for the e39 online (eBay) When doing this repair, just do one wire at a time, to prevent mixing up the wires. Some wires might have same color but different purpose.
  19. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    If you are thinking of buying a cold air intake, then think twice before you go out and spend your money on a aftermarket cone air filter to be fitted in the engine bay. You should also be aware of that it probably will not benefit anything, in terms of getting more cold air to the engine over the air intake you have but unfortunately often quite the opposite effect so that the engine will draw hotter air in from the engine bay, sins it is hard to eliminate the hot air in the engine bay from outside air. I had some issues with the heat in in the engine and actually got up to 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f air temp. measured inside the manifold, at standstill and idling, with outside temperature at 20°c/68°f. This heat buildup is manly due to all the tuning and modifications I have made to the engine. To tackle this heat buildup I had two simple choices, ether more cold air from the outside or an external oil cooler. I opted for both solutions and the results where that the core heat (mostly the heat of the oil) of the engine dropped from 103°c to 93°c/217°f - 199°f and air temp inside the intake manifold from 62°c. to 43°c./144°f - 109°f (later I deleted the throttle body heat and got much better numbers, you can read about it with other pictures) I bought a used air filter housing with the additional air intake spout (you can see the spout I'm talking about in the picture of the oil cooler setup "final setup") that takes air in from the wing. The hole is there on the inner side of the wing (looks like BMW anticipated a need for some more fresh air for the bigger engines) so no modifications needed. Further more, I removed the resonant baffle that potentially could restrict fresh cold air intake and finally, I shortened and opened up the main air intake that sits in the front of the radiator. The peace I removed from the air filter housing is a silencer, that looks like it should provide some venturi effect. The dilemma was, does the engine need more air at lesser velocity, or less air at faster velocity? I opted for more air at a lower velocity although both would be the best of both worlds. Works fine for me and the MAF. After the air improvement I noticed that I had to rewrite and fine tune some of my bin. files, sins the engine is now running cooler and colder more dens air is coming into the engine, hens more fuel can be added to the A/F ratio. That where my primary thoughts behind this mod, to gain more HP without melting the engine. The numbers speak for them self's and the problem with the rising core heat is solved.
  20. V_MAX

    Strut bar

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Strut bar on top of new shocks and springs (B12) I was not sure, if this strut would do anything positive for the handling but more fore the cool look, but actually it works. The handling is better than before in sharp turns and roundabouts. Motor M52b25 with M50 Manifold ECU Tuned, hotter Camshafts, bigger Fuel Injectors and Stainless Steel Headers and Exhaust amongst 50 other ongoing endless modifications
  21. V_MAX

    Oil Cap Adapter

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Not much to say, this is the oil cap and the routing of the oil hoses. There is a possibility to put the upper half of the cap in 7 different positions to direct the hoses the least resistant way. "Nice" that it happened to have the BMW colors. More info with picture "final setup" You can clearly see on this picture that I have opted to change the water thermostat housing to an solid, aluminum housing instead of the endlessly warping and leaking plastic housing.
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    Camelpower vs. Horspowe vs. Duckpower

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I simply could not resist taking this picture when these camels came to visit us hear up north and so far from home. I have read somewhere that a camel puts out 765 watts power and compare it to horsepower that only puts out 745 watts. Maby we should start measuring our engine in Camelpower or Duckpower for more power, just multiply your horses by 131,2 and vola! your 190 horsepower engine turns out 24.928 Duckpower Think about it! you could say to your mate I hawe 24.928 Duckpower! Strange and out of place animals to say the least Think I was far to long in covid quarantine when I figured this out in 2021.
  23. V_MAX

    LED, REAR LIGHTS Burned Out,

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Hear you can see that something has gone horribly wrong. The reason? Well, when the lights where assembled at the factory they somehow managed to wire them wrong (actually they didn't), with the result that they led diodes burned out but somehow the resistor ( 12,8 ohm) survived. What I found out was that "they" wired the lights wrong for old car. Instead of serial wiring ,they connected them as if they where a set of 4 Leds. (wrong resistor and over 6v. going to the led). Later I found out that I was missing two rather bulky resistors to compensate for this way of connecting the LED lights. Why Hella chose to change to this "new" and in my mind, complicated and more expensive way of connecting the lights from the old setup, that where trouble free for over 20 years, I have no idea why Hella did that. I simply wired the new LED diodes up the old way and they worked perfectly, without thees new cumbersome outside of the lights resistors.
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    M5 bumper with functional air intake.

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Just repainted and shiny. I like the sexy lines and intake bezel for the fog lamps. At this time I had not pushed the bezel all the way in place. This is a little bit different and cleaner than the closed standard fog light bezels. The left bezel for the fog lights cools down the alternator and the two in the middle are inlets to cool the brakes.
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